U.S. Army Special Forces Guide to Unconventional Warfare

by Department of the Army

To use gelled gasoline most effectively, it should be spread out over the surface of the material to be burned. This will start a large area burning at once. A match can be used to directly initiate this incendiary. A short time delay in ignition can be obtained by combining Fuse Cord (0101) or Improvised String Fuse (0102) and one of the igniter mixtures found in chapter 3. (For example, several spoonfuls of Sugar-Chlorate Mixture (0201) are placed in a nonabsorbent wrapping material. Fuse cord is buried in the center of the igniter mixture and the fuse is taped to the wrapping material. This assembly is placed directly on the gelled gasoline. Delay times are determined by the length of fuse. Suitable delay mechanisms are given in chapter 5 for delay times longer than those practical with fuse cord.)

  Gelled gasoline should not ordinarily be used with a delay longer than one hour because gasoline evaporates and this can reduce its effectiveness.

  The destructive effect of gelled gasoline is increased when charcoal is added. The charcoal will readily ignite and the persistent fire from the charcoal will outlast the burning gasoline. It is recommended that at least one quart of gelled gasoline be used to ignite heavy wooden structures and large wooden sections. A minimum of one-half quart is recommended for wooden structures of small cross section.

  0303.2 LYE-ALCOHOL SYSTEMS

  a. Description. See Paragraph 0303.1.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  Note. Lye is also known as caustic soda or sodium hydroxide. Allow for strength of lye. If only 50% (as in Drano), use twice the amount indicated above. Methyl (wood) alcohol, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol or antifreeze product can be substituted for whiskey, but their use produces softer gels. Potassium hydroxide (caustic potash, potassa) may be used in place of lye.

  The following can be substituted for the tallow in order of preference: (a)Wool grease (lanolin) (very good)—fat extracted from sheep wool.

  (b) Castor oil (good).

  (c)Any vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed, peanut, linseed, etc.).

  (d)Any fish oil.

  (e)Butter or oleo margarine.

  When using substitutes (1)(c) and (e) above, it will be necessary to double the recommended amount of fat and of the lye solution for satisfactory thickening.

  c. Preparation.

  Measure out the appropriate amount of gasoline and place in a clean container. Caution: Keep material away from open flames.

  Add the tallow to the gasoline and stir for about one-half minute to dissolve the tallow.

  Add the alcohol to the mixture.

  In another container dissolve the lye in water. Caution: Add lye to water slowly. Do not prepare this solution in an aluminum container.

  Add the lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until the mixture thickens (about one-half hour).

  The mixture will thicken to a very firm butter paste in one to two days. The mixture can be thinned, if desired, by mixing in additional gasoline. Store in an air-tight container until ready to use.

  d. Application. See paragraph 0303.1.

  0303.3 LYE-BALSAM SYSTEMS

  a. Description. See paragraph 0303.1.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  Note. Lye is also known as caustic soda or sodium hydroxide. Allow for the strength of the lye. If only 50% (as in Drano), use twice the amount indicated above. Potassium hydroxide (caustic potash, potassa) may be used in place of lye.

  c. Preparation.

  Dissolve the lye in water using a clean container. Caution: Add lye to water slowly. Do not prepare this solution in an aluminum container.

  Stir gasoline and copaiba balsam in another clean container.

  Add the saturated lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir until the gel forms. Store in an air-tight container until ready to use.

  Note. Increase the lye solution to 10 parts by volume (5 parts lye, 5 parts water) if the gasoline does not thicken.

  d. Application. See paragraph 0303.1.

  0303.4 SOAP-ALCOHOL SYSTEMS

  a. Description. See paragraph 0303.1.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  Note. Methyl (wood) or isoprophyl (rubbing) alcohols can be substituted for the ethyl alcohol. When a stronger alcohol (150 proof) or one of the dry alcohol substitutes is used, add an amount of water to make the concentration 50% by volume. (The percent alcohol is equal to ½ of the proof—150 proof is 75% alcohol.)

  Unless the word soap actually appears somewhere on the container or wrapper (at retail store level), a washing compound may be assumed to be a synthetic detergent. Soaps react with mineral salts in hard water to form a sticky insoluble scum while synthetic detergents do not. Synthetic detergents cannot be used.

  The following is a list of commercially available soap products (at retail store level): Name Manufacturer

  Ivory Snow Proctor and Gamble

  Ivory Flakes Proctor and Gamble

  Lux Flakes Lever Brothers

  Chiffon Flakes Armour

  Palmolive Bar Soap Colgate-Palmolive

  Sweetheart Bar Soap Manhattan Soap Company

  Octagon Bar Soap Colgate-Palmolive

  Home prepared bar soaps may be used in place of purchased bar soaps.

  c. Preparation.

  Measure out the appropriate amount of gasoline and place in a clean container.

  Caution: Keep material away from open flames.

  Add the alcohol to the gasoline.

  Add the soap powder to the gasoline-alcohol mixture, and stir occasionally until the mixture thickens (about 15 minutes).

  The mixture will thicken to a very firm butter paste in one to two days. It can be thinned, if desired, by mixing in additional gasoline. Store in an air-tight container until ready to use.

  d. Application. See paragraph 0303.1.

  0303.5 EGG SYSTEM

  a. Description. See paragraph 0303.1.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  c. Preparation.

  Separate the egg white from the yolk as follows: (a)Method 1. Crack the egg at approximately the center. Allow the egg white to drain into a clean container. When most of the egg white has drained off, flip the yellow egg yolk from one-half shell to the other, each time allowing the egg white to drain into the container. Transfer the egg white to a capped jar for storage or directly into the container being used for the gelled flame fuel. Discard the egg yolk. Repeat the process with each egg. Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into the egg white. If egg yolk gets into the egg white, discard the egg.

  (b) Method 2. Crack the egg and transfer (CAREFULLY SO AS TO AVOID BREAKING THE YOLK) the egg to a shallow dish. Tilt the dish slowly and pour off the egg white into a suitable container while holding back the yellow egg yolk with a flat piece of wood, knife blade, or fingers. Transfer the egg white to a capped jar for storage or directly to the container being used for the gelled flame fuel. Discard the egg yolk. Repeat the process with each egg being careful not to get yellow egg yolk mixed in with the egg white. If egg yolk gets into egg white, discard the egg and wash the dish.

  Store egg white in an ice box, refrigerator, cave, cold running stream, or other cool area until ready to prepare the gelled flame fuel.

  Pour the egg white into a clean container.

  Add the gasoline. Caution: Keep material away from open flames.

  Add the table salt (or one of its substitutes) and stir until the gel forms (about 5—10 minutes). Use within 24 hours. Thicker gelled flame fuels can be obtained by— (a)Reducing the gasoline content to 80 parts by volume (NO LOWER); or

  (b) Putting the capped jars in hot (65° C., 149° F.) water for ½ hour and then letting them cool to ambient temperature. (DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING COFFEE.)

  d. Application. See paragraph 0303.1.

  0303.6 LATEX SYSTEM

  a. Description. See paragraph 0303.1.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  Caution: Sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid will burn skin and ruin clothing. The fumes will irritate nose passages, lungs and eyes. Wash with l
arge quantities of water upon contact.

  c. Preparation.

  Commercial rubber latex may be used without further treatments before adding it to gasoline.

  Natural rubber latex will coagulate (form lumps) as it comes from the plant. Strain off the thick part for use in flame fuel. If the rubber latex does not form lumps, add a small amount of acid to coagulate the latex and use the rubbery lump for gelling. It is best to air-dry the wet lumps before adding them to gasoline. (a)Using commercial rubber latex. 1. Place the latex and the gasoline in the container to be used for the gelled gasoline and stir.

  Caution: Keep material away from open flames.

  2. Add the vinegar (or other acid) to the liquid in the container and stir again until the gel forms. Store in an air-tight container until ready to use.

  Note. Use gelled gasoline as soon as possible because it becomes thinner on standing. If the gel is too thin, reduce the gasoline content (but not below 85% by volume).

  3. Natural rubber latex coagulates readily. If acids are not available, use one volume of acid salt (alum, sulfates and chlorides other than sodium and potassium). The formic acid content of crushed red ants will coagulate natural rubber latex.

  (b)Using natural rubber latex. 80 parts by volume of gasoline.

  20 parts by volume of coagulated or dried rubber.

  Let the rubber lump soak in the gasoline in a closed container two or three days until a gelled mass is obtained. Prepare the gelled gasoline using the above formulation. This gelled gasoline should be used as soon as possible after it has thickened sufficiently.

  d. Application. See paragraph 0303.1.

  0303.7 WAX SYSTEMS

  a. Description. See paragraph 0303.1.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  Caution: Lye causes severe burns to eyes.

  Note. Lye is also known as caustic soda or sodium hydroxide. Allow for strength of lye. If only 50% (as in Drano), use twice the amount indicated above. Potassium hydroxide (caustic potash, potassa) may be used in place of lye.

  c. Preparation.

  Wax from natural sources. (a) Plants and berries are potential sources of natural waxes. Place the plants and/or berries in boiling water. The natural waxes will melt. Let the water cool, and the natural waxes will form a solid layer on the water surface. Skim off the wax and let it dry.

  (b) Natural waxes which have suspended matter should be melted and screened through a cloth.

  Gel from gasoline and wax. (a) Put the gasoline in a clean container. Caution: Keep material away from open flames.

  (b) Melt the wax and pour it into the gasoline container.

  (c)Tightly cap the container and place it in hot water (sufficiently hot so that a small piece of wax will melt on the surface).

  (d) When the wax has dissolved in the gasoline, place the capped container in a warm water bath and permit it to cool slowly to air temperature.

  (e) If a solid paste of gel does not form, add another 10 parts by volume of melted wax and repeat (b), (c), and (d) above.

  (f) Continue adding wax (up to 40 parts by volume) as before until a paste or gel is formed. If no paste forms at 80 parts by volume of gasoline and 40 parts by volume of melted wax, the wax is not satisfactory for gelled gasolines and may be used only in combination with alkali.

  Gel from gasoline, wax and alkali. 70 parts by volume of gasoline

  29.5 parts by volume of melted wax

  0.5 parts by volume of staurated lye solution

  (a) Prepare the saturated lye solution by carefully adding one volume of lye (or two volumes of Drano) to one volume of water and stir with a glass rod or wooden stick until the lye is dissolved.

  Caution: Lye causes severe burns to eyes. Add the lye to the water slowly. Let cool to room temperature and pour off the saturated liquid solution. Do not prepare this solution in an aluminum container.

  (b) Prepare the gasoline-wax solution according to the method described above.

  (c) After the solution has cooled for about 15 minutes, CAUTIOUSLY loosen the cap, remove it and add the saturated lye solution.

  (d) Stir about every five minutes until a gel forms. If the gel is not thick enough, remelt with another 5 parts by volume of wax and 0.1 part by volume of saturated lye solution. Stir contents as before. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

  Note. In addition to the listed waxes, the following may be used: candelilla wax, carnauba (Brazil) wax, Chinese (insect) wax, Japan (sumac) wax, montan (lignite) wax, and palm wax.

  d. Application. See paragraph 0303.1.

  0303.8 ANIMAL BLOOD SYSTEMS

  a. Description. See paragraph 0303.1.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  c. Preparation.

  Animal blood serum. (a) Slit animal’s throat by jugular vein. Hang upside down to drain.

  (b) Place coagulated (lumpy) blood in a cloth or on a screen and catch the red fluid (serum) which drains through.

  (c) Store in a cool place if possible. Caution: Animal blood can cause infections. Do not get aged animal blood or the serum into an open cut.

  Preparation of gelled gasoline. (a)Pour the animal bolod serum into a clean container and add the gasoline. Caution: Keep material away from open flames.

  (b) Add the lime and stir the mixture for a few minutes until a firm gel forms. Store in an air-tight container until ready to use. Note. Egg white may be substituted for up to ½ of the animal blood serum.

  d. Application. See paragraph 0303.1.

  0304. PARAFFIN-SAWDUST

  a. Description.

  This item consists of a mixture of paraffin wax and sawdust. It is easily prepared and safe to carry. It is used to ignite wooden structures including heavy beams and timbers. It will also ignite paper, rags and other tinder type materials to build larger fires.

  This incendiary can be safely ignited by a match flame. However, any igniter listed in chapter 3 can be used in conjunction with specific delay mechanisms in chapter 5 for delayed ignition of this incendiary.

  All or part of the paraffin wax may be replaced by beeswax but not by vegetable or animal fats or greases.

  b. Material and Equipment.

  Paraffin wax, beeswax, or wax obtained by melting candles.

  Sawdust.

  Source of heat (stove, hot plate).

  Pot.

  Spoon or stick for stirring.

  c. Preparation.

  Put enough wax in the pot so that it is about half full.

  Heat the pot on a stove or hot plate until the wax melts.

  Remove the heated pot from the stove or hot plate and shut off the source of heat. Add the sawdust to the melted wax until the pot is nearly full. Stir the mixture with a spoon or stick for a few minutes, being sure there is no layer of wax at the bottom of the pot which has not been mixed with the sawdust.

  While the mixture is in a fluid state, pour it into a waxed paper carton or other container. Upon cooling, the wax mixture will harden and take the shape of the container. The mixture can be stored for months without losing its effectiveness. If it becomes wet, it will be effective again when it is dried.

  A less effective incendiary may be made by melting some paraffin or beeswax, dipping sheets of paper in the molten wax for a few seconds, and removing the paper to let the wax harden. This waxed paper lights readily from a match. Although not as hot or persistent or the paraffin-sawdust mixture, the waxed paper is an excellent incendiary and may be substituted in many instances for initiating readily ignitable materials. The paper may be wadded up, folded, or torn into strips.

  d. Application.

  Place about a quart of the mixture in a paper bag and put the bag down on the object to be burned. A match may be used to ignite the bag which will then ignite the paraffin-sawdust mixture. The fire starts very slowly so there is no hazard involved, and it usually takes two or three minutes before the paraffin-sawdust mixture is burning strongly. This, of course, is a disadvantage where a hot fire is required quickly. Once starte
d, however, this mixture burns vigorously because the paraffin itself gives a fairly hot flame and the sawdust acts like charcoal to increase the destructive effect.

  Where very large wooden beams or structures are to be burned use more of the mixture. A bag containing two or three quarts will be enough to set fire to almost any object on which paraffin-sawdust mixture can be used effectively.

  To be most effective on wood structures, this mixture should be in a pile, never spread out in a thin layer. If possible, place it under the object. When placing the incendiary in a packing box or in a room, place it in a corner.

  0305. FIRE-BOTTLE (IMPACT IGNITION)

  a. Description.

  This item consists of a glass bottle containing gasoline and concentrated sulfuric acid. The exterior of the bottle is wrapped with a rag or absorbent paper. Just before use, the rag is soaked with a saturated solution of granulated sugar and potassium chlorate. Thrown against hard-surfaced targets such as tanks, automotive vehicles or railroad boxcars, this fire bottle is a very effective incendiary.