Barbès–Rochechouart métro station 76–7, 82
bar, in café, etiquette for drinking at 19
Basilique de Saint-Denis 91, 282
Basque cuisine 14
Bassin de la Villette 16, 41, 58, 130–2, 283
Bastille 12–13
flood preparations 62
métro station 68, 76, 82, 85
bateaux-mouches 57, 58
invention of 137
Batobus river shuttles 57
Baudelaire, Charles (poet, pioneer flâneur) 30
beaches, artificial 57–8
Beaubourg (Centre Pompidou) 8, 54, 121, 123
Beaux Arts, survey 29
Beckett, Samuel (writer) 9
Bécon: métro line 3 83–4
Belle Époque 118
Belleville 16, 82, 89
rue de 234–8
springs 54
Zoophilie (art movement) 235
Belmondo, Jean-Paul (actor) 223
Ben (artist) 250
Bénard, Adrien (métro director) 75
Bercy, prehistoric settlement 101-2
Bernadin, Alain (creator, Crazy Horse) 169
Bertie, Dirty, see Edward VII
bicycles, parking problems 43–4
see also cannibalism; cycling
Bienvenüe, Fulgence (métro builder) 71, 73–4, 76, 84
Bir-Hakeim métro station 86
Birkin, Jane (muse of Serge Gainsbourg) 173
bittes de trottoir 42–3
Blier, Bernard (actor) 226
Bobigny-Pablo Picasso–Place d’ltalie:
métro line 5 85
bobos (bourgeois Bohemians) 16, 17, 212
Bois de Boulogne 14, 46
Bois de Vincennes 46
Boltanski, Christian (artist) 233
bon appétit, usage 196–7
bon/bonne whatever, usage 26
Bon Marché (department store) 10
Bonaparte Café 10, 31
Bonaparte, rue 10
Bond, James 155
Bönickhausen, see Eiffel, Gustave
bonjour!
importance of 21, 22
usage 25
Bonne Nouvelle métro station 88
bordel parisien, décor 143
Botzaris métro station, Plumet entrance 93
Boucher, François (painter) 242
Boudon-Vanhille, Sophie (director, Mission Cinema) 220-3
boulangeries, rules for conduct in 20–1
boules, see pétanque
boulevard périphérique 3, 122
boulevards, military rationale 112, 116
Boulogne–Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz: métro line 10 89
bouquinistes 57
Braque, Georges (artist) 149
Brassens, Georges (singer) 236
brasseries 190
see also Alsatian
bread, see pain;
baguettes breakfast, late 141
Brel, Jacques (singer) 236
Bretagne, rue de 8
Brigade des Incivilités de la Ville de Paris 42
Brigade des Moeurs 146 brocanteurs 49
brothels 155–6, 158–60, 162–3, 166–8
joke about 155
Napoleon legalises 158
see also bordel; Chabanais; parrot
Brouet, Auguste (artist) 251
Brown, Dan (populariser of Mona Lisa) 219
Brücker, Professor Gilles (hygiene expert) 182–3
Bruni-Sarkozy, Carla (First lady) 216
Butte aux Cailles 13
Buttes-Chaumont park 16, 93
Haussmann and 114
c’est à moi, en fait, usage 21, 25
C’était un Rendez-vous (film) 224–5, 226
cafés
addresses 280–1
rules for conduct in 19–20
Bonaparte 10
Charlot 8
Flore 99, 283
Gladines 14
Hôtel Amour 12
L’Avenue 11
La Coupole 14
La Société 10
Le Concorde 10
Le Nemours 7
Le Temple 150–2, 283
Les Éditeurs 10
Les Marronniers 9
Mama Shelter Hotel 17
Pause Café 13
rue Lepic 16
rue Montorgueil 8
Voisin 177–8, 285
Calle, Sophie (artist) 233
canal basin, see Bassin de la Villette
Canal de l’Ourcq 58
Canal Saint-Martin 12
cannibalism, of bicycles 43–4
cannonballs, anti-parking 43
Cardinal Lemoine, rue du 140
Carmet, Jean (actor) 226
Carnavalet, see Musée Carnavalet
Carrousel, place du 113
Catherine de’ Medici (serial Queen Mother) 107, 110
catwalk shows 207–8
centre of universe, Paris as 4–5
Centre Pompidou, see Beaubourg
ceramic art 235–6
Cézanne, Paul (artist) 247
Chabanais, Le (brothel) 138, 155–6, 166, 284
Chabrol, Claude (filmmaker) 226
Chacun Cherche son Chat (film) 13
Chagnaud (métro builders) 74
Chambas, Jean-Paul (artist) 87
Chambre Professionnelle des Artisans Boulangers-Pâtissiers 186–7
Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne 203
chambres de bonne (top-floor garrets)
affordable in posh areas 263
occupants in 5th arrondissement 9
Champ-de-Mars 117, 136–8, 284
Champagne 127, 150
ideal temperature 127n
Ritz bar 147–8
Champs-Élysées 11
métro tunnel collapse 73
Haussmann and 114
Chandelier, Pierre (artist) 237, 286
Chanel 200, 204-5, 207, 212
Chanel, Coco (fashion designer) 207
Chapelle, La
métro station 12
Sri Lankan cuisine 82
Chapelle Expiatoire 109–10, 283
Chaptal, Jean-Antoine (Minister under Napoleon) 53
Charivari, Le (magazine) 231
Charlemagne, King 106
Charlemagne, rue 31, 32
Charles de Gaulle-Étoile métro line 6 85–6
métro station 76
Charles X, King 112
Charlot (café) 8
Charonne, rue de 13, 55
Château Chirac (nickname for Parisian water) 58
Château d’Eau métro station 12
Château de Vincennes–La Dèfense: métro line 1 81–2
Châtelet 7
Châtelet–Mairie des Lilas: métro line 11 89–90
station 74, 90, 93
Châtillon-Montrouge: métro line 13 91–2
Chaussée d’Antin-Lafayette métro station 86–7
cheese stalls 180
chef-watching 193–4
chèvre chaud, salade de 152, 190–1, 192, 193
Chinatown 13
Chinese community
at Belleville 16, 82
streetwalkers 12, 84
Chirac, Jacques (ex-Président) 58–9
at Salon de l’Agriculture 91
Chloé 200, 204, 205
cholera, from Seine water 55
Choltitz, General Dietrich von (Nazi commander) 36, 119–20
Christo (artists) 251
churches, destruction after Revolution 109
Ciné X 142
cinema 217–26
cinemas, density per square kilometre of 217
Cinq Diamants, rue des 14
Cité, métro station 76, 84
Cité des Fusains 240, 286
Cité Fleurie 239-40, 286
City of Light (origin of nickname) 111–14
Clamart 244
Clichy, boulevard de 160–1
clothes homonyms 213–14
Clu
ny-La Sorbonne métro station 89
Cohen-Solal, Lyne (Deputy Mayor) 186
Colonel Fabien métro station 82
Colonnes Morris 41
Comédie Française theatre 7, 82
comic-book style art 235
commemorative street plaques 35–6
Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitan de Paris 72-3
compromis de vente 274, 277
Concorde, Le (café) 10
Concorde, place de la 111
métro station 90
Conseil d’État 7
construction rules, Haussmann’s 113–14
Contrescarpe, place de la 9
conversations, rules for starting 22
Corsica 150, 152
cuisine 190
Coulée Verte gardens 13
Coupole, La 122–3, 14, 148-50
Courau, Clotilde (actress) 170
Courbet, Gustave (artist), Les Baigneuses 230
Courneuve-8 Mai 1945–Mairie d’lvry/Villejuif-Louis Aragon: métro line 7 86–7
Couronnes métro station, disaster 77
Courrèges, André (fashion designer) 204
Courrier International (magazine) 42
crackheads 131
Crazy Horse (erotic cabaret club) 154, 169–72, 173, 284
Créteil Préfecture: métro line 8 87–8
cricket, Olympic event 72n
crickets (insects), in métro 78–9
crisis eating 178–9
Cubism 229
cuisine
prehistoric 101–2
see also food; restaurants
cycling, dangers of 24
Da Vinci Code 219, 220
Dac, Pierre (comedian) 259
Dadaism 242–6
dangers, métro 95–7
De Particulier à Particulier (property ad magazine) 266–7, 287
Debelleyme, rue 33
Déclaration des droits de l’homme et du citoyen 90–1
Défense, La: métro line 181–2
Delanoë, Bertrand (Mayor) 56, 220
Denat, Jeanne-Claude (artist, half of Christo) 251
Deneuve, Catherine (actress), bedroom of 143
Dénoyez, rue 235
Devil Wears Prada 218
Diana Princess of Wales
last drink at Ritz 147
not her memorial flame 88
Dior 200, 212
directions, métro line numbers 79–81
Dirty Bertie, see Edward VII
Dirty Dick’s 142, 145
Doesburg, Theo van (artist) 244–5
dogs, relationship with Parisian pavements 29, 40, 42, 46
Doisneau, Robert (photographer) 125–6
doors
how to open 97
minding, métro 95
dress code, streets 22
drinking water 53, 54–6
driverless trains 92
driving, see bad
Drouot sales rooms 253–6, 286
drunks, why avoid on métro 96
Dumas, Alexandre fils (writer), on Parisians 1
Durand-Ruel, Paul (gallery owner) 231–2
eating places, selecting 189–97
Eau de Paris 65–6
water-themed tours 65, 281–2
eau minérale 56
Éclaireur store 212, 213, 285
École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne 203–4
École Militaire 117, 136–7
École Polytechnique 140
Éditeurs, Les 10
Edward VII, King of England
frequent state visits to Paris 137–8
sex life 158
Eiffel, Gustave (engineer) 59–61
Eiffel Tower 59–61, 74, 86, 99, 117
from Champ-de-Mars 136-7
light display 128, 138
miniature 57
electric trains 71–2
Élysée Palace 201
bread supply 185–6, 187
Empain, Édouard (industrialist) 72–3
Enfants Rouges market 8
English wars 106
entrance halls, prohibition of wheeled machines in 24–5
épavistes 45
Ernst, Max (artist) 245
erotic omnipresence 156–60
Érotisme, Musée de l’ 160–8
establishment, the
art, and progress 229–32
cultural, occasional lack of elitism 209
estate agents, not always totally honest? 260, 262, 264–6, 278
Étoile: métro line 6 85–6
Eugène, Georges, see Haussmann
Eugénie, Empress 203
ex-playboys, ancient, in 8th arrondissement 11
Expositions Universelles
1855 202
1867 137
1878 137
1889 117
1900 71–2, 74–5
Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain, Le (film) 16, 90
falafel bars 9
fashion 199–215
fashion sense 210–13
fashion stores 200, 213–15
fashion talent, foreign 202–7
Fashion Week 205, 207–9
fashionistas 8
Faubourg Saint-Antoine, rue du 12
fountain 55
Faubourg Saint-Honoré, rue du 112, 201
Ferry, Jules (politician) 114
Figaro, Le (newspaper), on Guimard’s métro stations 75
filmmakers, encouragement by city 220–3
films
French love story, typical dialogue in 132–3
popularity 217–18
Porte des Lilas métro station, as location 90
see also cinema flâneurs 29–30
flea market 89
Flèche d’Or 17
Fleming, Ian (writer) 155
flood, 1910 59–61, 62, 64, 74
anticipated 61–4
Flore, Café de 99, 283
florists 153
Fluctuat nec mergitur 53
Folies (orgy venues) 162
Folies-Bergère 138, 162, 169
Fondation Arp 244–6, 286
Fontaine Maubuée 54
Fontaines Wallace 55–6
guided tour 65
food 175–97
allergy sufferers, warning to 20
hygiene, Parisian 182–3
markets, street 179–82
see also chèvre chaud
Forge, La 236–8, 286
Forum des Images 226–7, 285
fountains 54–6
Fourche, La, métro station 91
Fournel, Victor (writer), Paris Nouveau et Paris Futur 115–16
franchement!, usage 26
François I, King, sex life 161–2
François II, King 107
François Premier, rue 11
Francs Bourgeois, rue des 100
Franklin D. Roosevelt métro station 88–9
Franks, seize Paris 106 freshness testing 175
Frison, Marie-Christine (fashion designer) 209–13
Frochot, rue 145
Gabriel Péri Asnières: métro line 13 91–2
Gainsbourg, Serge (singer) 90, 93
‘Je t’Aime, Moi Non Plus’ 172–3
Galerie des Machines 117
Galeries Lafayette 11, 86, 151
Galliano, John (fashion designer) 204, 207, 212
Gallo-Roman remains 102–5
Gambetta–Porte des Lilas: métro line 3bis 93
gaps, minding, métro 96–7
Gare dAusterlitz: métro line 10 89
Gare de l’Est
artists’ community 241
Haussmann and 114
Gare de Lyon, Haussmann and 114
Gare du Nord 12
métro station,
dangerous arrows 85
Gare Saint-Lazare 59
Gauguin, Paul (artist) 239
Gaultier, Jean-Paul (fashion designer) 102, 210
gays, rue des Archives 8–9
Genet, Jean (w
riter) 41
Gennevelliers/Saint-Denis-Université: métro line 13 91–2
gentrification, Haussmann and 114
German occupation, see Nazi occupation
Germanic invasion, 3rd century 103
Giscard d’Estaing, Valéry (ex-Président) 122
Giverny 247–8
Gladines, Café 14
global brand conspiracy 199
graffiti, on vans 181
graffiti artists 235
Grand Blond avec une Chaussure Noire, Le (film) 225–6
Grand Palais 74, 117, 119, 121
Grand Prix de la Baguette de Paris, judging 185–9
Grande Épicerie, La 10
Grandes Écoles, Hôtel des 284
Grant, Cary (actor) 226
Great Exhibition 1851 202
Great War 119
Grenier à Pain boulangerie 189, 285
Grève, place de la 57
Grévy, Jules (ex-Président) 104
Grosse Bertha, bombardments 119
Guimard, Hector (architect) 68, 75–6, 82, 91
Guitry, Sacha (actor) 17 Guy Laroche (fashion designer) 225
Guy Moquet métro station 92
habitations à loyer modéré (HLM) 3
with artist’s studio 240–1
hairdressing salons, names 50–1
Haussmann boulevard 110
Haussmann, Georges Eugène, aka Baron (city planner) 54, 58, 65, 101, 111–14
Hemingway, Ernest (writer and drinker) 140, 141
Henri IV, King 107–8, 128
Hirst, Damien (artist) 249
history museum, see Musée Carnavalet
HLM, see habitations à loyer modéré
homeless people, Plan Neptune and 61-2
hommes, archetypal Parisian 15
homonyms, clothes 213–14
Honoré, Guy (artist) 235, 286
Hôtel Amour 12, 144–7
Hôtel de Ville 35, 220
and Seine 57
bombardments 111
place de l’, increased squareness of 113
Hôtel des Grandes Écoles 140–1
Hôtel du Nord (film) 223–4
Hôtel Meurice, bullet holes in 36
hotels
choosing 139–47
love hotel 144
rules for conduct 24–5
hôtels de passe 144–7, 159
hôtels particuliers 8, 100
housing, low-cost, see HLMs
Huet, Edmond (métro builder) 71
Hugo, Victor (writer) 89, 104
Huysmans, J.-K. (writer), Croquis parisiens 290
hygiene, Parisian 182–3
Île de la Cité 99, 112
Île Saint-Louis 103 impatience, explained 4
Impressionists 229, 230–2, 242, 247–9
Indian (southern) restaurants 190n
industrial buildings, romantic 131–2
Institut de France 128
Institut de Veille Sanitaire 182–3
International Herald Tribune (newspaper) 263
intra muros, see arrondissements
Paris Revealed Page 27
