Jacobs, Marc (fashion designer) 204
Japanese restaurants 190
Javacheff, Christo (artist) 251
Javel-André Citroën métro station 89
Jewish people
commemorative street plaques 35
rue des Rosiers 8–9
Joan of Arc 106
jobs, film industry 220–1
Joinville food market 180–2; 285
Josephine (Napoleon’s) 136, 157–8, 246, 249
Jourdain area 16, 220
Journal des Débats (magazine) 62
Journées Portes Ouvertes 234–8, 286
Joyce, James (writer) 9, 140, 245
Kafka, Franz (writer) 94
Kandinsky, Wassily (artist) 244
Keller, rue 13
kettles, bringing your own 24
kiosks, newspaper 36–7
kiosquiers 36–8
kitsch preferred to chic 151
Lafayette, Marquis de (war hero) 87
Lagerfeld, Karl Otto (fashion designer) 204–5, 206, 207, 210, 212
Lamartine place, mineral water fountain 56
Landreville, Arsène-Olivier de (engineer) 71
Lapin Agile 169
Latin Quarter 89
commemorative street plaques 35–6
Left Bank
intellectual sewage 65
water-themed tour 65
Léger, Fernand (artist) 149
Lélio (artist) 238–9, 240
Lelouch, Claude (filmmaker) 224
Lemoine, Serge (museum director) 247
Lenclos, Ninon de (writer/courtesan) 125
Lepic, rue 16
Leroy, Louis (art critic, coined term Impressioniste) 231
Les Halles (modern) 7, 8, 121, 123
Les Halles (original)
demolition 121
Zola on 175–6, 179
Lévy, Bernard-Henri (philosopher/socialite) 157, 173
Lido 169
Life magazine 126
Ligue pour la Protection des Grillons dans le Métro Parisien (LPGMP) 78
lime trees 45–6
live-music venues 16
location filming 218–23
London, Napoleon III and 112
Louis Blanc–Pré Saint-Gervais: métro line 7bis 93
Louis VII, King 54
Louis XIV, King
and fashion industry 201–2
sex life 157
Louis XV, King, sex life 157
Louis XVI, King 135, 150–1
and the potato flower 84
prison cell 108–9, 110
Louis XVIII 110
Louis-Charles (son of Louis XVI) 108–9
Louis-Philippe, King 112
Louvre 7, 228, 242
and Seine 57, 59
bombardments 111
flood preparations 61
Pyramid 113, 123, 222
Louvre-Rivoli, métro station 76
love, see hotels; romance; sex
Lumière brothers 72
Lutetia 102–5
Lycée Janson de Sailly 36
Lyon, Victor (financier/art collector) 242
Madone, place de la, mineral water fountain 56
Madonna (singer) 143
Mairie d’Issy–Porte de la Chapelle; métro line 12 90–1
Mairie d’lvry/Villejuif–Louis Aragon; métro line 7 86–7
Mairie de Montreuil: métro line 9 88–9
Mairie des Lilas: métro line 11 89–90
Maison de la Radio 61
maisons d’abattage 163, 166
maisons de tolérance, Napoleon and 158
Malraux, André (writer, politician) 229
Mama Shelter Hotel 17
Manet, Edouard (artist) 230
Maraîchers métro station 78
Marais 7, 8–9, 31, 34, 99, 100
1960s demolition 121
marchands de l’eau 53–4 Marianne (magazine), survey 3
Marie Antoinette (wife of Louis XVI) 110, 150–1
marketing, fashion 208–9
markets, street
cleaning after 39
food 179–82
second-hand 48–50
see also flea
Marronniers, Les 9
Marville, Charles (photographer) 113
Mary Queen of Scots 107
Matisse, Henri (artist) 149, 232, 237
Maupassant, Guy de (writer), Mademoiselle Fifi 289
McCartney, Stella (fashion designer) 204, 207
McQueen, Alexander (fashion designer) 204
meals, ordering properly 19
media ghetto 16
Ménilmontant métro station 77
menus, translated into several languages 196
métro 69–97
chansons 93
commuting 3–4
crickets 78–9
disaster 1903 76–7
history 69–77
rules for conduct 95–7
stations, Guimard’s 68, 75–6, 82, 91
métro lines 81–93
1: Château de Vincennes–La Défense 81–2
2: Nation–Porte Dauphine 82
3: Pont de Levallois–Bécon 83-4
3bis: Gambetta–Porte des Lilas 93
4: Porte de Clignancourt–Porte d’Orléans 84
5: Bobigny-Pablo Picasso–Place d’ltalie 85
6: Nation–Charles de Gaulle-Étoile 85–6
7: La Courneuve–8 Mai 1945–Mairie d’lvry–Villejuif-Louis Aragon 86–7
7bis: Louis Blanc–Pré Saint-Gervais 93
8: Balard–Créteil Préfecture 87–8
9: Pont de Sèvres–Mairie de Montreuil 88–9
10: Boulogne-Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz 89
11: Châtelet–Mairie des Lilas 89–90
12: Mairie d’Issy–Porte de la Chapelle 90–1
13: Châtillon–Montrouge–Gabriel Péri Asnières-Gennevilliers/Saint-Denis-Université 91–2
14: Saint-Lazare–Olympiades 92–3
avoiding rush hour 95
directions 79–81
literature 94
Metternich, Princess 203
microchips, embedded in trees 46
middle-class families 14
mineral water fountains 56
Ministry of Culture 7
Ministry of Finance 86
Mission Cinéma 220–3, 226
Mitterrand, François (ex-Président) 123
MK2 Quai de Loire 131, 132, 284
MK2 Quai de Seine 131, 284
models, fashion 200
Modigliani, Amedeo (artist) 239
Molière (writer) 89
Mona Lisa 228, 242
Monceau parc, Haussmann and 114
Monde, Le (newspaper) 37
Monet, Claude (artist) 247–9
at Giverny 247–8
Impression: Soleil Levant 230–1, 248–9
Monge, rue 104
Monnaie de Paris 87
Monroe, Marilyn (actress), as restaurant décor 151, 152
Montaigne, Avenue 11, 89, 200
Montesquieu, Charles de Secondat, Baron de (writer) 175
Montmartre 13, 106, 240
clichéd view of 15
springs 54
water-themed tours 65
Montorgueil, rue 7
Montparnasse 86
boulevard du 14
Montparnasse-Bienvenüe métro station 84, 86, 91
Montreuil 220
Montsouris parc, Haussmann and 114
Môquet, Guy (Resistance martyr) 92
Morisot, Berthe (artist) 249
morning noises 139
Motte-Picquet-Grenelle métro station 86
Mouffetard, rue 9
Moulin Rouge 169
Muette, La, métro station 15
Musée Carnavalet 30, 100–18, 177, 283
Musée d’Orsay 10, 247, 249
Musée de l’Érotisme 160–8, 285
Musée du Moyen ge 283
Musée Guimet
242
Musée Gustave Moreau 242
Musée Marmottan-Monet 15, 248–9, 287
Musée Rodin 92, 242
Nanterre 102
Napoleon Bonaparte 110
and Josephine 136, 157–8
bringer of water 53
loses virginity 135–6
legalizes brothels 158
memorabilia 249
Napoleon III
and art 230
and Paris remodelling 111–14
and Savoyards 253
Nation–Porte Dauphine: métro line 2 82
Navarin, rue de 12, 145
Nazi occupation
1944 uprising 83, 119
and brothels 166–8
commemorative street plaques 35–6
Nemours, Le (café) 7
Neuilly Sa Mère (film) 6
New York Times (newspaper), readers 2
Nina Ricci 200, 209, 210
Nordling, Raoul (Swedish ambassador) 36
nostalgia 99
and sex 158–60, 162–3, 164, 173
Notre-Dame 109, 128
construction 106
number plates 33
numbers, in French, how not to confuse 256–7
Oberkampf area 13
Odéon 10
Olympiades: métro line 14 92–3
Olympic Games 1900 72
Opéra district, Haussmann and 113
Opéra
métro station, design of 76
métro station, absurdly located exits 87
Opéra Garnier, see Opéra Orléans, Duc d’ (Philippe Egalité) 135
Othoniel, Jean-Michel (artist) 82
Oubari, Susan (fashion expert) 205, 208
padlocks, Pont des Arts 130
pain
au levain 191
de mie 191
Poîlane 192
see also baguettes
Paix, rue de la 202
Palais de Chaillot 128
Palais-Royal 7
gardens 133–6, 284
métro station, entrance 82
Panthéon 140
Pantin 58
Parc André Citroen 89, 282
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, see Buttes
Parc des Princes 14, 88
Parc Monceau 15
Parc Royal, rue du 34
Paris, Je t’aime (film) 90
Paris Plage(s) 22, 41, 56–9
Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) football fans 14, 88, 89
Paris Match (magazine) 37, 38, 49
Pariscope (listings magazine) 217
Parisien, Le (newspaper), anti-Parisian commercials 1–2, 3, 40
Parisians 1–27
becoming one 17–18
how not to annoy 19–27
prehistoric 102
spotting 6–17
parking, preferably on pavements 42–3
Parmentier, Antoine-Augustin (champion of potato) 84
Parmentier métro station 83–4
parrot joke, hoary (or whore-y) old 155–6
passers-by, spraying
firemen and 58
street cleaners and 39, 66–7
Passy métro station 86
Paul Séjourné, rue 34
Paul Verlaine, place, mineral water fountain 56
Pause Café 13
Pavée, rue 32
pavements 29–51
obstacles 42–4
peeing on (by humans) 40–2
see also parking
pedestrian crossings, rules for using 22
Percée, rue 31
Père Lachaise cemetery 12–13
périph, see boulevard périphérique 3
permettez-moi, usage 26
pétanque
gladiator-style in Arènes de Lutèce 105
during picnics at Bassin de la Villette 132
Petit Palais 74
Petite Ceinture (early urban railway) 70
Petits Champs, rue des 34
Peyrefitte, Roger (writer) 41
Philippe Auguste, King 103
Philippe Egalité, see Orléans
photos, Doisneau 125–6
Piaf, Édith (singer) 93, 143, 149, 223
Picasso, Pablo (artist) 15, 149, 229, 232
Les Demoiselles d’Avignon 163
Museum 8
Pigalle, place 11, 82, 90, 142–7, 159–69, 173, 238
pigeons 46–8
coops, contraceptive 48
Pissarro, Camille (artist) 232
pissoir, see vespasienne
Place de la Contrescarpe 9
Place d’ltalie: métro line 5 85
Place Saint-Germain des Prés 31
Plan autoroutier pour Paris 121–2
Plan Neptune (in case of flooding) 61–4
plane trees 45, 46
plaster of Paris, origin of 102
plat du jour, essential ingredient on menu 196
Play Lounge 145
Plumet, Charles (architect) 93
Plumey, Alain (museum director, ex-porn
actor) 161–5, 168
Plumey, Madame (monteuse) 164
political satire, kiosquiers and 37
politicians 10
Pompidou Centre, see Beaubourg
Pont Alexandre III 128
Pont de l’Alma 62-3, 65
golden flame 88
Pont de Levallois–Bécon: métro line 3 83-4
Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz: métro line 10 89
Pont de Sèvres–Mairie de Montreuil: métro line 9 88–9
Pont de Tolbiac 64
Pont des Arts 128–30, 284
Pont Neuf 59, 128
métro station 87
Pop Art portraits 236
porn cinema industry 161, 163–4
port, Paris as 53–4
Porte d’Orléans: métro line 4 84
Porte Dauphine: métro line 2 82
station 76
Guimard entrance 82
Porte de Clignancourt–Porte d’Orléans: métro line 4 84
Porte de la Chapelle: métro line 12 90–1
Porte de Montreuil 89
Porte de Saint-Ouen 15
Porte de Versailles métro station 91
Porte de Vincennes 73
Porte des Lilas: métro line 3bis 93
station 90
Plumet entrance 93
Porte Maillot 73
postcodes 3
posts, anti-parking 42–3
potato, not poisonous 83–4
pour qui il/elle se prend?, usage of 26
Pré Saint-Gervais: métro line 7bis 93
pre-Haussmann Paris, photographs 113
Prêcheurs, rue des 35
prehistoric settlement, Bercy 101–2
Prêtres, rue des 31
Prévôt, rue du 31, 34
Prison de la Santé 41
pronunciation, fashion terms 214–15
property buying 259, 262–78
ads, vocabulary 268n
De Particulier à Particulier 266–7, 287
owners, buying from 267–78
prostitutes
business records 168
Napoleon’s first amour 135
Palais-Royal gardens 135–6
part-time 162–3
squeezed out 7
Prouté, Paul, gallery 251–2, 287
Prussian siege 1870–1 55, 56, 70, 174, 177–9
public toilets, idiosyncratic usage 2, 40–2
publishing houses, intellectual 10
puns 64, 262, see also hairdressers’ names
PSG, see Paris Saint-Germain
Quai de la Rapée métro station 85
Quai de Loire MK2 131, 132, 284
Quai de Seine MK2 131, 284
Quartier de l’Horloge 8, 121
Queneau, Raymond (writer), Zazie dans le Métro 94, 290
queues
general rules for conduct 20–1
supermarket checkouts 2
racaille 7
railways, urba
n 70–1
Ramponeau, rue 236
Ramuz, Charles Ferdinand (writer), Paris, Notes d’un Vaudois 18
RATP (Paris transport agency), flood preparations 62
rats, as part of Parisian cuisine 174, 177
Réaumur-Sébastopol métro station 83
redevelopment/remodelling 99–100, 101, 103–4
Fournel on 115–16
Haussmann 54, 58, 65, 101, 111–14
recent 121–3
redevelopment zones 234
regional cuisines 190
Renaissance Paris 107
Rennes, rue de 31
Renoir, Auguste (artist) 232, 240, 247
rent controls, loi de 1948, abolition 260–2
rented apartments, rules for conduct 24–5
République métro station 83
République square 150 RER (réseau express régional) 7, 69-70, 89
Resistance fighters, commemorative street plaques 35
restaurants
and baguettes 185, 188
authentic 127
French cuisine, selecting 190–7
romantic 148–52
rules for conduct 19–20
Revolution, French 108–9, 110
and street-name signs 33
sex after 157–8
‘revolutionary’ time 108
revolutions, French, various 111, 112, 114–15
rich people
dressed down 9
Montmartre 15
old ladies 11
ostentatious 9–10
Richard, Pierre (actor) 225
Rimbaud, Arthur (poet) 89, 236
ring road, see boulevard périphérique 3
Ritz bar 147–8, 284
Rivoli, rue de 35, 133
road signs, see street signs
Robert Esnault-Pelterie, rue 35–6
Rochefort, Jean (actor) 226
Roi de Sicile, rue du 32
Roman Paris 102–6
romance 125–53
or sex? 144–7
Roquette, rue de la 12
Rosiers, rue des 8–9
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques (writer) 199
royal sex 137–8, 157
royalties, for location filming 222
Rungis
food market 179
tree nursery 46
Sacré Coeur 128
Saint Laurent, Yves (fashion designer) 204
Saint-Bernard, quai 57
Saint Denis 105–6
Saint-Denis, rue 7, 159, 160
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de (writer) 99
Saint-Fargeau métro station, Plumet entrance 93
Saint-Germain, boulevard 10, 199, 250
Saint-Germain des Prés 10
métro station, literary events 84
Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois 116
Saint-Jacques métro station 86
Saint-Lazare
Gare 59, 83
métro station 91
métro line 14 92–3
Paris Revealed Page 28
