Skin Care Ingredients

by Carolyn Greenwald

  Tata Harper Restorative Eye Cream costs $98 for .5 oz. The first five ingredients are aloe, water, safflower oil, lavender (which can be irritating) and glycerin. The active ingredients are arnica, helichrysm essential oil (an anti-inflammatory oil), menyanthes trifoliate and date palm extract, two botanicals with dubious skin care benefits. Burt’s Bees Skin Nourishment Eye Cream also contains aloe, water, safflower oil and various botanicals and costs $18 for .5 oz.

  Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue contains vitamin K and arnica and costs $100 for .5 oz. CSI (Cosmeceutical Science Institute) sells Recovery Eye Cream with vitamin K and arnica and costs $14.50 for .5 oz.

  Chapter Six: Mistakes of The Uninformed

  When I first sought out skin care recommendations, I was easily swayed by online endorsements and eager to find bargains.

  My first purchase was the CosRx Triple C Lightening Serum after I read about it in New York Magazine. At $27 for 1 oz., it seemed like a reasonably priced product. However, I knew nothing about vitamin C. I did not know what it was supposed to achieve and that it was unstable. I did not always bother to return the dropper to the bottle and soon the product turned orange. At that point, whenever I used it I was introducing free radicals to my skin. (I have since thrown the bottle away).

  Why did I purchase Mario Badescu Seaweed Night Cream and Mario Badescu Protein Night Cream? Mario Badescu is a respected company, their packaging is a simple green on white (very pharmaceutical looking), and the prices are mid-range. The seaweed night cream comes in a jar (meaning any antioxidants have been destabilized) and contains elastin, collagen and sodium hyaluronate. I now know the elastin and collagen cannot penetrate the dermis even if the elastin is “hydrolyzed.” Its advertised special ingredient is bladderwrack extract to “soften and nourish the skin,” which I now recognize as meaningless jargon. The protein night cream also comes in a jar. It contains very basic moisturizers such as petroleum, glycerin and dimethicone. It also contains a dusting of retinol palmitate and collagen both of which are unlikely to be stable, in sufficient quantities to have any effect, or achieve dermis penetration.

  Straight talk here, I am embarrassed to say I purchased a number of products from Perricone MD. Dr. Perricone has been approaching cosmeceuticals from a scientific angle for decades and he has written several best sellers. Unfortunately, the majority professional opinion is that many ingredients he espouses, such as DMAE, are not all that effective and he packages most products in jars. I purchased the Firming Neck Therapy (since discontinued) which contains resveratrol, vitamin E and sodium hyaluronate in a jar, ingredients definitely not worth the cost of this product. I also purchased his broad spectrum SPF with 4% titanium dioxide. There are tons of way less expensive creams with 4% titanium dioxide.

  For exfoliation I purchased Bio-Peel Neogen Lemon Gauze Peeling. The Bio-Peel pads contain mostly citric acid and a small amount of tartaric acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid. Lemon has a low pH and is not considered one of the superior exfoliating acids.

  I bought The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% EGCG after I saw before and after pictures posted on a Facebook group page of a woman first with large bags under her eyes and a second picture with seemingly transformed non-puffy eyes. First of all, under eye bags are not one of my skin concerns. Secondly, there is no clinical evidence that EGCG when applied topically, can fight under-eye bags and there is no clinical evidence that caffeine has any benefit for puffy eyes. This woman probably just had a better night’s sleep before the second picture.

  I bought two different hyaluronic acid serums at the same time not knowing what either product was meant to achieve. I bought the Sub-Q Anti Age Hylamide from Deciem which is hyaluronic acid plus peptides and The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. These serums are both pretty much the same thing except one contains peptides. I certainly didn’t need to buy both.

  I bought a sample size of Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. At first my skin hated it and became red and blotchy. I have since learned to use it properly with better results. However, I do not notice a difference between the P50 and the less expensive Pixie Glow Tonic.

  Although it was dumb luck, I did make a few decent purchases. I bought Andalou Naturals Natural Tint SPF 30 with resveratrol. This is a BB Cream with 20% Zinc Oxide and a dusting of resveratrol and coQ10. The tube says the product is “age-defying.” I now know that this means simply that the cream provides sun protection. The ingredients are not anti-aging. Nonetheless, this is a good product because I use it and get the SPF benefits.

  I tried the Neutrogena SkinClearing Mineral Powder with microclear technology because it was on sale for $1. The powder has SPF and it creates a barrier that protects your skin from sun damage. The powder also contains salicylic acid and it keeps away acne very nicely. I have since purchased this product at its full price of $11.

  I fully recommend the Benton Snail Bee High Content Mask. I now know that the effects of masks are short lived, but this mask will take you from tired looking to normal in twenty minutes.

  Chapter Seven: What Else Can I Do For My Skin?

  Nutraceuticals and Nutrient Supplements

  The health of your skin and its appearance is closely linked with your overall health. Diet, environmental exposures, stressors, and lifestyle habits can influence the genes that influence the condition of our skin. So yes, your diet will affect the condition of your skin. In general, a diet of healthy low sugar foods is associated with fewer wrinkles and younger looking skin.

  The list of skin friendly foods will surprise no one: olive oil, fish, yogurt, fruits, and green vegetables. The foods associated with skin wrinkling are also no surprise: fatty processed foods, high fat dairy products, and sugar. We all want to eat more of the former and less of the later.

  In addition to eating a healthy diet, there is good research to suggest we should all be drinking green tea daily. Green tea contains important antioxidants and anti-inflammatory chemicals. There are dozens of studies to confirm its biological effects ameliorating sun damage. Green tea has also been shown to improve dermal elastic tissue. The highest grade of green tea is Japanese Matcha. Look for a high concentration of EGCG per ounce.

  Your diet can also impact your skins' resistance to sun and pollution damage. Lycopene, a member of the vitamin A family called carotenoids, is an antioxidant with UV protecting properties. Lycopene is found in apricot, grapefruit, watermelon and tomato. Fish oil and/or additional fatty acid oil supplements can help protect your skin from UV damage and may slightly increase the dermal thickness and elasticity.

  Taking supplements is tricky because the industry is unregulated. An evening primrose oil supplement has been shown to improve skin smoothness. A borage oil supplement may help with skin hydration. However, there almost no evidence that ingredients ingested orally enhance collagen, elastin, or fibroblast production. For example, while marine fish collagen supplements may contain signal peptides, collagen and peptides entering our digestive systems are not delivered to our skin.

  What about vitamins C and E? High oral doses of vitamins C and E can actually create increased levels of free radicals. Similarly, a number of studies have indicated that beta-carotene taken as a supplement acts as a pro-oxidant.

  Acne

  Acne is caused by increased oil production, clogged pores, and bacteria. Acne can be triggered by hormones, stress, and foods. Acne should be treated with antibiotics, exfoliation, oil removal, and vitamin A. The antibiotic will help to kill off the P. acnes bacteria. Regular exfoliation and the use of retinoids will slough off dead skin cells.

  Blackheads and whiteheads are caused when a buildup of sebum and dead skin cells clogs the inside of a pore which can become infected with bacteria. Blackheads are open comedones. Dead epidural cells block the pore, oxidize in the open air, and turn black. The oxidized keratin on top is black, but underneath is white. Whiteheads are closed comedones. Because the comedone is covered by the epidermis, the cyst remains white. The word “noncomedogenic” mea
ns a product or ingredient that will not block the pores and cause acne.

  If you have blackheads, try using a pore strip such as Biore a maximum of three times per week. Used more often it will irritate your skin and cause breakouts.

  To treat acne, look for these ingredients: Salicylic acid will keep pores open. Azelaic Acid contains salicylic acid. Benzoyl peroxide functions as a drying and peeling agent and it also inhibits bacteria growth. If salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are not working, try a product with sulphur. Lauric acid (from coconut oil), tea tree oil, and zinc are additional good anti-bacterial ingredients. You could also take an oral zinc supplement.

  Daily Routine to Treat Acne: The four steps for acne treatment are 1) unclog pores; 2) kill bacteria and reduce excess oil; 3) increase cell turnover and 4) spot treat.

  Wash your face with a salicylic acid cleanser. Unclog your pores with BHA exfoliation. Increase cell turnover with retinol and niacinamide. This may be counter intuitive but you should also moisturize. Use a light hyaluronic acid serum (and avoid creams and heavy oils). Finally, to spot treat try Mario Badusco Drying Lotion with salicylic acid and calamine which costs $17 per 1 oz.

  For serious acne, consult a dermatologist. A professional can prescribe an antibiotic such as tetracycline or erythromycin which you can use in conjunction with a topical retinoid and a benzoyl peroxide antibiotic cleanser. The doctor may use light treatment to kill bacteria, shrink your sebaceous glands, and reduce follicle inflammation.

  Water

  Despite celebrities constantly attributing their genetically perfect completions to the fact that they drink eight glasses of water per day, drinking water is probably not going to improve the appearance of your skin. It is true that dehydrated skin is dull and water is essential to skin’s metabolism and regeneration. However, there is no clinical evidence that drinking water can hydrate the skin from the inside out. The way to moisturize your face is with moisturizer.

  Natural Beauty Products

  Natural does not necessarily equal good skin care. In cosmetics, labeling a product “natural” can be very misleading. Ammonium lauryl sulfate is a salt and it is natural, but it is also a harsh detergent worth avoiding. Many companies that claim to be natural use coloring agents, preservatives, film filers and slip agents. If they didn’t their product would become moldy, discolored, and disgusting.

  Natural or organic beauty is often more expensive and sometimes it’s a good product and sometimes it is not. It is better to review the ingredients and see if they achieve your aims such as being anti-inflammatory or providing sun protection.

  The science says parabens are not a risk in personal care products but almost all natural beauty products will strive to be paraben-free.

  At Home Gadgets

  At home light gadgets are not as effective as medical options used by dermatologists, however they can be more cost effective. A red light LED device can help heal wounds and reduce wrinkles. Paula’s Choice recommends the Tanda Luxe Skin Rejunevation Photofacial Device for $195. A blue light LED treatment can help with acne but the general consensus is that an acne sufferer will have better results with a good skin care regiment rather than with an LED light.

  Micro-needling involves using a roller with tiny needles. Research suggests these rollers stimulate collagen growth. The risk here is that you are wounding your skin and can eventually damage it.

  At home laser hair removal is available with a devise called the Tria Laser 4x. It is cheaper than salon laser treatments and most people consider it a good investment.

  A home humidifier is worth trying if your skin feels dry. A machine that boils water into micro-free steam will keep your face moist and reduce flaking.

  Scar Treatments

  Silicone sheets are successful in treating hypertrophic and keloidal scarring (localized ridged area from a wound). Topically applied, vitamin E does not improve scar appearance.

  Facials

  Facials are great self-care. As far as skin care, facials are essentially massage, exfoliation with a strong percentage AHA, and serum application. Now that you are well educated, you can do the exfoliation and serum application at home. Have a facial to pamper yourself not to treat your skin.

  Medical Procedures

  What you do to your skin is up to you. Botox is effective at reducing wrinkles. Dermal fillers plump creases. Juvederm is hyaluronic acid injected into your skin cells. Ablative lasers resurface the skin. Chemical peels improve the appearance of wrinkles, make skin smoother, and reduce discoloration. Intense pulsed light (IPL) and non-ablative lasers have the least dramatic results (maybe a good thing). All of these procedures have scientifically proven positive results and associated risks.

  Conclusion

  Have you ever run into a friend you haven’t seen for several months and thought “Wow, she looks so much younger!” Me neither. I also tend to think that all the real housewives and other Hollywood personalities who spend all day every day on their appearance tend to look exactly as old as they are. Clearly, there are no miracle products out there that everyone else is using. The people who care about skin care probably use or have tried the products mentioned here.

  However, it is also true that we feel our best when our skin, the body’s largest organ, is healthy and blemish free. It is also true that a dewy complexion is only one part of skin care. The other part is self-care: the intentional practice of treating your body with loving kindness and making an effort to feel good, look good, and improve your health.

  Since following the recommendations outlined here, my skin looks its best. I have little or no break outs and the overall appearance is hydrated and robust. That being said, no one--and I mean no one--has commented that my skin looks better or that I look younger. The subtle differences are apparent only to me. Nonetheless, I am glad that I took the time to decipher the medical terms so I could be more informed about what I put on my skin now and in the future.

  The best advice is to purchase the least expensive product that has the ingredient you want in the delivery form you want and see if it works. If it doesn’t, then move on to a more expensive product. Look out for meaningless phrases such as “soothing botanicals” and “smooths the appearance of superficial lines.”

  Remember that packaging matters. Many of these ingredients, (especially retinol and vitamin C) are not particularly stable. They will be ineffective if they are exposed to light and oxygen. Look for products with an opaque pump delivery system. Do not buy expensive ingredients that come in jars, especially antioxidants.

  My first-choice product contains the ingredients I want for the least amount of money. That product can often be purchased from Deciem or can be found in a drug store brand that also owns a boutique brand. I also feel comfortable purchasing Paula’s Choice. The products are mid-range in price and only contain ingredients backed by science. For example, you won’t find a Paula’s Choice product containing diamond dust (I’m looking at you Tata Harper).

  Some very expensive companies seem not worth the money at all. In my opinion, these include La Mer, Skinceuticals, Kate Somerville, Mario Badescu, and Tata Harper. On the other hand, if you have the money and want to invest it in skin care, Sunday Riley and Peter Thomas Roth products often include research supported active ingredients.

  Today I wash my face with an inexpensive oil-based cleanser from Garden of Wisdom. In the morning I apply a vitamin C ester, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F from The Ordinary. I follow that with a broad-spectrum BB Cream. In the evening, I wash my face and apply either The Ordinary 2% Retinol, Paula’s Choice Retinol 1% or Differin Gel. Once per week I exfoliate with the products I currently own: Pixie Glow Tonic, P50 and Good Genes. If I need moisture, I use a hyaluronic acid serum with peptides.

  If you have a product you would like to see included in the next guide, email your suggestions to:

  skincare2019guide@gmail.com.

  If you enjoyed this ebook and found the information helpful, ple
ase leave a review and a five-star rating.

  https://www.amazon.com/review/create-review/listing

  References

  Websites

  beautybrains.com

  beautifulwithbrains.com

  carolinehirons.com

  futurederm.com

  paulaschoice.com

  skinskoolbeauty.com

  skincharisma.com

  Books

  Begoun, Paula, The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here, Beginning Press (2015).

  Begoun, Paula, Don’t Go To The Cosmetic Counter Without Me, Beginning Press (2012).

  Logan, Alan C. Your Skin, Younger, Sourcebooks, Inc. (2010).

  Marmur, Ellen M.D.

  Simple Skin Beauty. Every Woman’s Guide To A Lifetime of Healthy, Gorgeous Skin, Atria Books (2009).

  Perricone, Nicolas, M.D., The Perricone Prescription. A Physician’s 28-Day Program For Total Body And Face Rejuvenation, HarperResource (2002).

  Yarosh, Daniel, PhD. The New Science of Perfect Skin, Broadway Books (2008).

  Youn, Antony, M.D., The Age Fix: A leading Plastic Surgeon Reveals How To Really Look 10 Years Younger, Grand Central Life & Style (2016).