The Curious Barista's Guide to Coffee

by Tristan Stephenson

  CUBA

  Cuba’s coffee production has suffered a sharp decline over the past few decades. According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organization, the total number of hectares where coffee is harvested fell from 170,000 in 1961, following Castro’s revolution and the subsequent nationalization of coffee farms, to 26,935 in 2011. Nationalization also meant a poor wage for farmers, and Cubans continue to be among the lowest paid arabica growers in the world. Despite this, the volume of coffee grown in Cuba has tripled in the past three years, and, with the gates (tentatively) opening to foreign investors, it should continue to grow. Such an increase is clearly needed. Up to 80 per cent of the country’s home-produced coffee is consumed domestically and coffee imports are still necessary to satisfy demand. Cuba’s coffee is mostly arabica and the majority of it is grown in the Sierra Maestra range, which runs along the south-west coast near Santiago.

  DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

  More coffee is consumed per head in the Dominican Republic than in any other Caribbean island, and most of it is grown domestically. Such a pattern results, more often than not, in a lower-quality product, and the Dominican Republic is no exception to that rule. There some examples of mild, light and floral coffees coming from the midwestern regions on the border with Haiti.

  ECUADOR

  Although Ecuador has a wonderful coffee-growing climate and certain regions that lend themselves well to the cultivation of high-altitude arabica coffee, around 40 per cent of the coffee grown in the country is robusta. Most of Ecuador’s arabicas are relatively poor quality, too; being naturals, they are less sought after by the speciality coffee industry, but interestingly some robustas are wet-processed, resulting in an atypical style for the poorer-quality coffee. Sift through the chaff and you may find some examples of bright and floral arabica coffees from the southern growing regions.

  EL SALVADOR

  El Salvador has a long history of coffee production and at one time it was the fourth-biggest producer in the world. Memories of political unrest, oppression of the poor, civil rebellion and long periods of military rule – themes that are all too common in this part of the world – still haunt the people of El Salvador, but for the most part the coffee industry has weathered the turmoil. Low-yield, heirloom bourbon varieties grown at altitude are the backbone of El Salvador’s well-recognized sweet and juicy cup quality. The Pacas variety was discovered here in 1950 and has since been bred with the Maragogype to create the desirably herbaceous Pacamara variety. El Salvador produces some of the sweetest and complex coffees around, especially from the late-growing region around the Apaneca–Llamatepec mountain range.

  GUATEMALA

  Coffee, sugar and bananas compete annually for the title of Guatemala’s biggest export. The history of the country over a period of 150 years has been inextricably linked to coffee, since coffee was the cause of the mass relocation of indigenous peoples in the late 19th century, and prompted the CIA coup and resulting civil war of the mid-20th century. It would appear that these events have done nothing to affect the quality of Guatemalan coffee, however. With strong regional identities and a generally high standard, Guatemala has produced some of my favourite herbal and fleshy-fruited coffees of recent times. Traceability is generally excellent, so look out for Catuai and Caturra varieties, which are grown near the towns of Antigua and Huehuetenango (pronounced hway-hwet-en-an-go).

  HAITI

  In 1780 Haiti was known as Saint-Domingue and prospered under French colonial rule. At the time it produced more than half of the world’s supply of coffee, but these days it accounts for a mere 0.2 per cent. Haiti is a country that has struggled continually with political turmoil and poverty, and more recently with the consequences of natural disasters, but it stands out as a unique example of a nation almost entirely populated by descendants of a slave workforce, who mounted a major revolt in 1804. Deforestation and soil erosion have also been major contributory factors in the decline in coffee production and especially the decline in exports. The potential remains for a successful coffee industry, but it will only be met with governmental support and the installation of proper infrastructure. Most coffees from Haiti are naturally processed, but some areas in the south are exploring the potential of wet processing.

  USA (HAWAII)

  Growing coffee in a developed country involves higher costs than elsewhere for the payment of labour, infrastructure and, in the case of Hawaii, mechanized harvesting. These higher costs, combined with successful marketing, mean that Hawaiian coffee commands quite a high price, and counterfeit Hawaiian coffee is not uncommon in many parts of the world. The quality of the coffee perhaps falls short of that which is promised by such a price, but the potential certainly remains. Hawaiian coffee is typical of island coffee style, with milk chocolate and low-acidity characteristics.

  HONDURAS

  Honduras is the biggest producer in the Central American belt and coffee is the country’s main export, accounting for around 15 per cent of the total value of national exports. Government support in the past four decades has given a significant boost to the industry. This began with the founding of the Instituto Hondureño (IHCAFE), which has by various means worked to improve the quality of Honduran coffee, including the construction of regional tasting stations, where producers have access to a range of tools for quality assessment. Unfortunately, not enough was done to protect farms from coffee leaf rust, which in 2013 created a state of national emergency In Honduras. In most cases, traceability is good and the bourbon and Caturra coffee varieties are, if you are lucky, bright, candied and juicy in their style.

  JAMAICA

  The Blue Mountain region of Jamaica, which produces a coffee variety by the same name, is probably the best-marketed growing region in the world. The cool, misty climate provides excellent coffee-growing conditions, but I suspect that a greater diversity of arabica varieties would be needed for Jamaica to produce anything truly stunning, and Blue Mountain is certainly no longer worthy of the attention that it once received. Production is very low and most of it is snapped up by Japan, with some finding its way into bottles of Tia Maria. Expect to find clean, nutty and mostly unexceptional coffee from Jamaica.

  MEXICO

  Most Mexican coffee is grown in the south, with arguably the best coming from the state of Chiapas, which borders Guatemala. There are signs that, in imitation of its neighbour, Mexico is capable of producing top-quality speciality coffee, although most of today’s production is destined for the USA. Look out for chocolate, caramel, stone fruit from some of the southern growers, then lighter-bodied, more citrus-flavoured coffees as you head north.

  NICARAGUA

  The Nicaraguan government has in recent years enthusiastically encouraged farmers to adopt good growing practices – hardly surprising, since coffee remains the country’s chief export. In fact, there are very few countries that are so dependent on coffee as Nicaragua; when coffee prices crashed at the beginning of the 21st century, three Nicaraguan banks crashed along with them. The Nicaraguan people have also made their voices heard. In 2010 they took to the streets in an attempt to ban robusta, but were unsuccessful. The recognition that quality is the key to getting good prices is paramount, and farms are starting to show some off some nice complex, fruity coffees to the world. Traceability remains a significant problem, however, because most farms sell on to large wet mills for processing,

  PANAMA

  Panama shot to fame in 2004 when one of its farms, Hacienda La Esmerelda, won the ‘Best of Panama’ coffee competition and went on to sell one lot of coffee for a record-breaking $20/£12.75 per pound. Since then, the estate, which is run by the Peterson family, has won the same competition almost every year and the price of its coffee has risen dramatically, with one lot selling for $350/£225 per pound in 2013. The geisha variety, grown by the Peterson family, is now quickly spreading around the world as farmers recognize the potential value of such plants. The coffee is not universally popular, however; its taste is very light, f
loral, citrusy and tea-like. As for Panama itself, the country is becoming popular with American citizens wanting to purchase a holiday home, a development that threatens to chew away at coffee-producing farmland in what is ironically one of the best producing countries in the world. In response to this, total production has dropped by 15 per cent in the past three years.

  PARAGUAY

  A relatively small player in the coffee game, Paraguay generally turns out no more than 20,000 60-kg/130-lb) bags in a year, which is less than even some middle-sized estates in neighbouring Brazil. This hasn’t always been the case. Output peaked in the 1970s and then dwindled until the coffee crisis of the 1980s, when it dropped off a cliff. What little coffee is still grown tends to be along the Brazilian border. Transport difficulties, minimal governmental support and poor infrastructure mean that the standard is fairly poor.

  PERU

  Small farms, mostly organic soils and high altitudes are the main themes in Peruvian coffee production. Peru produces some of the cheapest organic arabica on the market and the quality and consistency of these coffees are improving, too – an excellent trend, since Peru has the potential to produce some outstanding coffees. The biggest growing region is in the north, in Cajamarca state, which accounts for around 70 per cent of all the Peruvian arabica, and, considering that Peru is the ninth biggest coffee-growing nation in the world, that’s quite a lot. Inconsistencies aside, Peruvian coffee is generally light, very bright, clean and sweet, but occasionally lacking in powerful fruitiness.

  PUERTO RICO

  Coffee cultivation is becoming increasingly scarce in Puerto Rico, and the Caribbean island now stands as one of the smallest producers in the world, filling only 700 bags in the 2013 harvest – small enough not to feature in some official statistics. The reasons for this drop are numerous, including the rising costs of seeds and fertilizer, but a crucial factor is the lack of pickers, which means that over a third of the ripe coffee cherries are never even picked.

  VENEZUELA

  Very little coffee actually leaves Venezuela. Annual production during the past 30 years has held firm at around one million bags, but more and more of it has been destined for domestic consumption. This is mostly a consequence of the strict regulations imposed by the Chávez government in 2003, which saw exports drop from 50 per cent to 2 per cent of the annual crop over the period from the early 1990s to present day. As such, Venezuelan coffees are not easy to come by.

  ASIA AND AUSTRALASIA

  AUSTRALIA

  Apart from the state of Hawaii, Australia is the only economically advanced country that grows coffee commercially. The amount is tiny, however, and it consists entirely of modern arabica varieties. The cost of labour in Australia is much higher than that in less developed countries, meaning that the coffee, which is grown in high-altitude areas along the eastern coast, is mostly harvested mechanically.

  CHINA

  Coffee is not a huge part of China’s economy, but the industry there is growing year by year, producing 82,000 tons in 2013. This figure is expected to increase by 50 per cent in the next five years as new parts of the Yunnan province (famous for its Pu’er tea) in the south are made available for coffee crops, but the infrastructure will need to see some improvements in order to handle it. Arabica coffee from Yunnan is, like the tea, savoury, nutty and of low acidity, produced from mostly catimor, bourbon and typica varieties.

  INDIA

  Like some of the other Asian producing countries, India produces a large quantity of robusta coffee as well as higher-quality arabicas. The growing region is in the south, whereas the tea tends to be grown further north, where the climate is slightly cooler. One type of coffee that will always be associated with India is Monsoon Malabar, whose name refers to the practice of wetting the green coffee so that it swells – something that used to happen naturally during the wet months of the year. The process is done with natural coffee and has the effect of amplifying the already wild and heavy character traits of the style. Good-quality arabicas from India are beginning to appear and the industry is exploring a wide range of varieties.

  INDONESIA

  Indonesia was one of the very first countries to grow coffee commercially, preceded only by Yemen. The country consists of a multitude of islands and it doesn’t take long to discover that each island has its own own interpretation of the Indonesian style – best demonstrated in such famous producing regions as Java, Sumatra and Sulawesi, which collectively account for over seven per cent of the world’s total coffee production, placing Indonesia third in the running order. Many of the arabica varieties here are subjected to a pulped-natural process, known locally as giling basah, typically culminating in a deep, earthy, low-acidity style, and it can perform nicely as part of an espresso blend. The better (washed) coffees from Sulawesi exhibit more of a spicy, fruity character, but retain the Indonesian heavy body.

  NEPAL

  Although Nepal produced no more than 5,000 60-kg/130-lb bags of arabica coffee in 2013, this was almost double the amount of the previous year and ten times that produced 20 years ago, indicating that output may continue to grow in future. In recent years, many farmers have been attracted to coffee, which can earn them up to three times as much as maize, millet and other commodity crops. Coffee consumption in the capital city, Kathmandu, is even beginning to challenge that of tea.

  PAPUA NEW GUINEA

  Coffee production in Papua New Guinea is thought to have its genesis in seedlings of Jamaican Blue Mountain planted in the 1920s. Today, it is estimated that over 30 per cent of the population of Papua New Guinea rely on coffee for their income, 99 per cent of which is arabica. The best coffee comes from the eastern highlands near the small town of Goroka, which at its best produces aromas of vanilla tobacco, cedar and tropical fruits from typica, mundo novo and bourbon varieties.

  THE PHILIPPINES

  At the beginning of the 19th century, the Philippines was the fourth-largest coffee grower in the world and, since robusta was not officially identified until the 1890s, we can be sure that every bean was an arabica. Oh, how things have changed. These days the Philippines produces mostly robusta and liberica varieties, the latter of which is known locally as kapeng barako.

  THAILAND

  Thailand grows almost exclusively robusta coffee destined to be turned into instant coffee, but there is a small amount of washed arabica grown in the northern regions of Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. Good farming practices and an organic approach to agriculture in these regions have rewarded farmers with very low-defect coffee (including caturra, catuai, catimor and geisha varieties) that in darker roasts produce sweet, fruity flavours and a unique incense-like flowery fragrance.

  TIMOR-LESTE

  Coffee production in Timor-Leste fell by 10 per cent to 20 per cent a year between 2011 and 2013, suggesting an uncertain future for this country’s small industry. Timor-Leste shares the island of Nusa Tenggara with Indonesia (with which it parted company in 2002), and the hilly, craggy landscape lends itself very well to the growing of arabica coffee, but economic survival is a struggle for this poverty-stricken nation. The Starbucks company buys a substantial proportion of the national crop for its Arabian Mocha Timor blend. Coffee is Timor-Leste’s biggest cash crop, so it should hopefully play a positive part in the development of this threatened young country.

  VIETNAM

  It surprises most people to learn that Vietnam is the second-biggest coffee grower in the world. It still produces less than half the volume of Brazil, and the vast majority is lower-quality robusta coffee. But, although only five per cent of Vietnam’s crop is arabica, the enormous scale of the industry means that production is more than double that of Kenya. Various small areas dotted around the north of the country offer the necessary altitude that arabica needs, but high-quality examples remain elusive.

  YEMEN

  Yemen has grown coffee commercially for a longer period than any other nation, and it continues to produce some surprisingly good naturals (natural
ly processed coffee) from its hilly areas close to the eastern coastline of the Red Sea. Almost all the coffee grown in Yemen is from very small holdings, averaging no more than 500 trees and perhaps 160 kg/350 lb of coffee per season. Unfortunately, this means that traceability is more or less nonexistent, with some typica varieties sharing their name with a region but not necessarily corresponding with the area in which the coffee was grown. It is also common to see ‘Mocha’ on Yemeni coffee labels, referring to the port city from where the coffee has been shipped. Expect to find benchmark naturals with volatile fruity qualities.

  Vietnam grows around 15 per cent of the world’s coffee, ranking it (a distant) second, after Brazil.

  VARIETIES OF COFFEE BEAN

  TYPICA

  Typica is the blueprint for all other arabica varieties. It is thought to have originated from the southern Sudan before flourishing in Ethiopia and eventually being cultivated for commercial production in Yemen in or around the 7th century AD. Typica was transported to the East Indies by the Dutch and was also the first variety to cross over to the West Indies, where it was planted on Martinique by Gabriel de Clieu in 1720.

  Typica produces red fruit when it is ripe. It is a relatively low-yield variety and has very little resistance to disease, but its cup quality remains popular throughout the world.

  The following is an incomplete list of mutations, selections and hybrids of typica that are commonly found in delicious bags of speciality coffee. You will note that, for the most part, I have used only vague tasting notes. Although some varieties are distinguished by obvious character traits, it is impossible to be 100 per cent certain that these will make it though to the cup, since many other factors (including the processing method and roast) must be taken into account when assessing taste.