Angelina's Bachelors

by Brian O'Reilly

  Angelina quickly concluded that if Mr. Pettibone had overstated his cooking abilities, it couldn’t have been by much. As they assembled the soup and rehearsed the Grand Marnier reduction to their mutual satisfaction, Angelina could see that Pettibone had that innate, unerring sense of proportion, temperature, and timing that truly fine cooking required. When he sautéed a shallot, he waited until it was perfectly translucent and soft before he disturbed it. When he added spices, Angelina could see that his “dash” was exactly the same every time and precisely equivalent to two of his “pinches.”

  “Hey, Douglas, you’re actually really good at this,” said Angelina admiringly as he swirled his last, perfectly calibrated measure of cayenne pepper into the pot on the stove.

  “I have credible skills, and normally I’d say that I’m more than comfortable in the kitchen. But I’ve never seen anybody put together a menu the way that you do, Angelina. The way your courses follow and build on one another, I’ve learned so much from you. I’ve had flavors at your table that pay off during dessert that were started way back at the soup course. When I first started coming here, it was like some sort of drug. And your sauces, my goodness, your sauces …”

  Pettibone went on and on, and near the end of their session he confided a secret to her, a secret that he had shared with very few people in his life. Angelina hatched a plan on the spot that would soon allow her to reveal his secret to everybody she knew.

  By the time they had finished talking, the soup was done to perfection, and Douglas seemed like his old relaxed and suavely assured self again.

  “These choices are inspired, Angelina,” he said as he folded her notes into his pocket. “Thank you so much. You saved the day.”

  She saw him to the door, the soup safely tucked away in Tupperware in a shopping bag in his hands.

  “Let me know how Leslie likes everything, Douglas.”

  “I promise I will.”

  “And, oh, make sure you start the flan as soon as you get home so it has time to chill.”

  “Got it,” he said, and sailed off down the street. Angelina closed the door, and stood beguiled by the thought of imagining the proper Mr. Pettibone falling in love.

  And, she had to admit, he had her thinking about romance again.

  Flan with Sauternes Caramel

  * * *

  serves 6

  INGREDIENTS

  ¾ cup sugar (½ cup for the caramel and ¼ for the custard)

  ¼ cup Sauternes or Monbazillac wine

  ⅜ teaspoon ground cinnamon

  1 cup condensed milk

  ½ cup evaporated milk

  ½ cup whole milk

  1 teaspoon vanilla extract

  3 egg yolks

  EQUIPMENT

  6 individual-size, lightly buttered flan tins or custard cups (these should have a ½-cup capacity and be about 3 inches in diameter)

  METHOD

  Preheat the oven to 325°F.

  Spread ½ cup of the sugar in an even layer in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan. Evenly pour the Sauternes onto the sugar. (Have a tray of ice water ready into which you will be able to immerse the pot to stop the cooking.) To chill the custard cups, prepare a second roasting pan or baking dish filled with ice water so that the level rises halfway up the sides of the custard cups. (This will also serve as your bain-marie baking vessel.) Stand the empty cups in this pan. Stir the sugar and wine over medium heat, stirring constantly until you don’t see any cloudiness or sugar crystals. Do not let the syrup boil until you see that the sugar has dissolved. You may have to remove the pot from the heat periodically to keep it from boiling before the syrup is clear. Once the sugar has entirely dissolved, do not stir again (as this will leave crystallized streaks in the syrup). Cover the pot, increase the heat to medium high, and once it begins to boil, cook covered for 2 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to cook until you see that the syrup is beginning to darken. When it becomes deep amber, remove the pot to the bowl of ice water you have standing by. Working quickly (and carefully due to the extreme heat of the hot sugar), immediately spoon a teaspoon of the caramel into each custard cup and use the tip of the spoon to swirl the strands in a random pattern to coat the sides of the custard cups. Sprinkle a pinch of cinnamon (1/16 teaspoon) onto the bottom of each cup and place them back into the roasting pan of ice water.

  Pour the condensed milk, evaporated milk, and milk into a separate medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and add the vanilla. Over medium-low heat slowly bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks until no streaks remain and they turn lemon yellow, then gradually add the remaining ¼ cup sugar, whipping constantly until you see another change in color. Create a liaison by incorporating half of the milk mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time, into the egg-yolk mixture, whisking continuously as you go. (This will equalize the temperature to prevent the eggs from curdling.)

  Pour even amounts of the custard into the caramel-coated custard cups and place them into a roasting pan. Prepare a bain-marie by adding hot water to the pan so that the water level is halfway up the sides of the flan tins, taking care to avoid splashing any water into them. Bake the custard in the oven until a butter knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 90 minutes. Carefully remove the custard cups from the bain-marie, allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving.

  PRESENTATION

  Just before serving, remove the custard cups from the refrigerator and allow them to warm up a little. Loosen the edges of each with a butter knife, then invert each custard from the molds onto chilled dessert dishes.

  * * *

  Sweet Corn Bisque with Crab “Soufflé”

  * * *

  serves 6

  INGREDIENTS FOR THE BISQUE

  2 tablespoons butter

  2 tablespoons canola oil

  1 large white onion, chopped

  3 stalks celery, chopped

  2 quarts chicken stock

  1 large sprig fresh tarragon

  2 bay leaves

  ½ teaspoon Spanish paprika

  ¼ teaspoon cayenne

  1 teaspoon curry powder

  1 teaspoon salt

  ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

  1 cup white rice

  2 pounds frozen sweet corn

  1 fresh lemon, micro-zested and juiced

  2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves

  INGREDIENTS FOR THE CRAB “SOUFFLÉ”

  4 tablespoons mayonnaise

  ½ teaspoon ground coriander

  1 large sprig fresh thyme, leaves stripped off and minced

  1 large sprig fresh oregano, leaves stripped off and minced

  1 pound fully-cooked lump crabmeat, picked over for shells

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning

  1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic chives

  METHOD FOR THE BISQUE

  In a large pot, melt the butter in the oil over medium-high heat and add the onion and celery, stirring frequently until the onion turns translucent. Add the chicken stock, tarragon, bay leaves, paprika, cayenne, curry powder, salt, pepper, rice, corn, and 1 cup of water and return to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and let simmer 20 minutes, undisturbed. Remove from the heat and let stand another 5 minutes before removing the lid of the pot. Uncover the pot, stir to loosen the rice, and return to medium heat and cook until the corn is very soft, and all flavors are integrated, another 10 minutes or so. Discard the tarragon sprig and the bay leaves. Remove from the heat and purée right in the pot with an immersion blender, adding water if necessary to achieve the consistency of a thick soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cover to keep warm over low heat.

  METHOD FOR THE CRAB “SOUFFLÉ”

  In a medium mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, coriander, thyme, and oregano. Gently fold in the crabmeat while trying to avoid breaking up the lumps of crab. Season to taste
with salt and pepper.

  PRESENTATION

  Ladle the soup into wide bowls. Scoop a rounded tablespoon of the crab mixture into the center of the soup and sprinkle with a little Old Bay Seasoning and top with a pinch of garlic chives and lemon zest. Drizzle 1 to 2 teaspoons of lemon juice and sprinkle 1 teaspoon minced basil over the surface of the soup.

  * * *

  Filet Mignon in a Grand Marnier Reduction with Chestnut Mashed Potatoes and Green Beans Amandine

  * * *

  Serves 4

  INGREDIENTS FOR THE STEAK AND SAUCE

  Four 4-to-6-ounce beef filet mignon steaks

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  2 tablespoons dried savory, ground to a powder with a mortar and pestle

  5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes

  1 tablespoon olive oil (not extra-virgin)

  1 shallot clove, minced

  2 garlic cloves, minced

  ½ cup Grand Marnier liqueur

  1 cup beef stock

  2 bay leaves

  INGREDIENTS FOR THE GREEN BEANS AMANDINE

  2 tablespoons butter

  ½ cup blanched, sliced almonds

  1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and cut

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  INGREDIENTS FOR THE CHESTNUT MASHED POTATOES

  4 large potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes, and placed in a pot of enough water to cover

  4 tablespoons butter

  ½ cup jar packed chestnuts (such as Haddon House brand), minced, plus 4 left whole for garnish

  1 cup heavy cream

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  METHOD FOR THE STEAKS

  Rinse the steaks and pat them dry with paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and rub the savory into all surfaces of the meat. Let sit while you cook the sauce and vegetables.

  Just before service, preheat the grill or grill pan over medium-high heat.

  Place the steaks on the grill or grill pan and place approximately 1 teaspoon butter on top of each filet. Grill the steaks for about 5 minutes leaving undisturbed to let the seasonings integrate into the surface of the meat. Flip the steaks and place another teaspoon of butter on other side of each steak and grill undisturbed in the same way.

  Let rest for 5 minutes while you reheat the sauce.

  METHOD FOR THE GREEN BEANS AMANDINE

  In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat and cook the almonds for about 5 minutes until the butter emits a slightly nutty fragrance. Transfer them to a small bowl, cover, and keep warm. (Use this same sauté pan to begin cooking the steak sauce.)

  once the potatoes are cooked, steam the green beans until tender but still bright green, about 5 minutes.

  Stir the almonds into the steamed green beans and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.

  METHOD FOR THE GRAND MARNIER REDUCTION (SAUCE)

  In the same sauté pan in which you cooked the almonds, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the shallots and garlic until the shallots turn translucent, stirring frequently to keep them from burning, 2 to 3 minutes.

  Deglaze the pan with the Grand Marnier and let most of it boil off, about 3 minutes.

  Add the beef stock and the bay leaves and allow the liquid to reduce by half, about 8 to 10 minutes.

  (Now would be a good time to begin boiling the potatoes.)

  Strain the sauce, return it to the pot, and cover to keep it warm.

  (Return to drain the potatoes.)

  While the steaks are resting, gently reheat the sauce without further cooking it, remove it from the heat, and gradually whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of cubed butter, allowing each addition to melt before adding the next. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper.

  METHOD FOR THE CHESTNUT MASHED POTATOES

  Boil the potatoes until tender, about 10 minutes. (Attend to the sauce while they’re cooking.) Preheat the oven to its “warm” setting (175°F to 200°F).

  Drain the potatoes well, add the butter to the pot to allow it to melt. Add the chestnuts to the pot, cover, and keep warm (while you begin steaming the green beans).

  Mash the potatoes and chestnuts together by hand, then add the cream and whip with an electric beater. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover, and place in the oven to keep warm.

  (Begin grilling the meat once the vegetables are done.)

  PRESENTATION

  Spoon some sauce into the center of each serving plate and place a steak on it. Spoon some chestnut mashed potatoes around the steak encircled by green beans amandine. Garnish with a whole chestnut.

  CHAPTER SIXTEEN

  Crullers, Champagne, and

  Croquembouche

  ON THE DAY of his wedding, Johnny Cappuccio rose early, at six o’clock. The house was empty and quiet, as it had been ever since his grandmother had gone to the Sacred Heart Home, but he had grown used to the solitude. Johnny had never minded bringing her meals, or helping her up and down the stairs, but he took comfort in knowing that she was safe and well looked after, that she didn’t have to worry about whether he’d be there for her at a moment’s notice when she needed help or, worse for her, worry that she was ever keeping him from being somewhere else that a young man ought to be.

  The house, which had been his home as long as he could remember, had been paid off long ago by Johnny’s grandfather, and Mrs. Cappuccio had the deed transferred into Johnny’s name as soon as she decided to move to Sacred Heart.

  “Johnny, I’m a little old lady and I’m not gonna last forever,” she’d said. “You’re a man now, and you’re a good boy, and I want you to have the house. You’d be getting it anyway. Now it’s settled. One day you’re going to want to get married, and I don’t want you and your bride worrying about having a roof over your heads. You’ll thank me that day.”

  “Grandmom … ,” Johnny had said, feeling the color coming into his face, “I … don’t know what to say.”

  “You can say thank you today, too, you know.”

  He’d given her a grateful hug and she’d simply gone back to making him his favorite breakfast, bacon with hard-fried eggs and thick slices of fried Italian bread with syrup.

  Jerry, Guy, and Basil had thrown a bachelor party for Johnny two nights before, with his pals from the car shop and a few other single guys from the neighborhood. They all met at the Red Rooster Tavern, shot pool, drank pitchers of Ballantine, and ate roast pork sandwiches with provolone and peppers.

  Johnny wasn’t much of a drinker. He liked to knock back a beer or two once in a while, though, and he appreciated having the chance to talk to the others about life in general and married life in particular.

  Around 1:00 a.m., before they called it a night, Jerry, Johnny, and Guy found themselves standing at the bar over three shots of John Jameson’s. They all raised their glasses in a toast.

  “To love,” said Guy.

  “To love,” said Jerry and Johnny, knocking back their whiskeys in unison.

  “Johnny,” called Basil, standing by the pool table, vigorously chalking a cue and puffing on a Macanudo Double Corona. “C’mere, boy, I want to show you how to sink the nine ball on the break.”

  “See you guys,” said Johnny, and trotted off for a lesson from the master.

  Guy and Jerry leaned against the bar and stood in silence while the jukebox played “Desperado.” They sipped at their beers and watched Johnny and Basil shoot pool.

  Guy broke the silence. “Hey, Jerry, think you’ll ever get married?”

  “Maybe. I really don’t know. All told, my parents had a very sad marriage. To tell you the truth, I don’t know if it’s in the cards for me or not. You have to put a lot on the line when you get married. If you don’t put your head on the chopping block, you don’t get it chopped off, right?”

  They nodded in unison.

  “How about you?”

  “I really don’t know
either,” said Guy.

  They were quiet again, each lost in his own thoughts as they drained the last of their mugs.

  “Well, I’m going to head out,” said Guy, shaking Jerry’s hand.

  “See you Saturday. Big day.”

  “It is.” Guy threw a twenty down on the bar and waved good-night to Basil and Johnny.

  “Hey, Jerry,” said Guy as he was leaving.

  “Yeah?”

  “If you do decide to stick your neck out, let me know.” “You’ll be the first,” said Jerry.

  Early on Saturday, with the wedding not scheduled till five o’clock, Johnny decided to go for a walk around the neighborhood one last time as a single man.

  He left the house and walked through the cool sunshine to the corner park where he had spotted Tina for the first time, when she was seventeen and he was twenty. Since then, he’d never looked at another girl, and he’d never looked at that park the same way again.

  As he walked down past Saint Joseph’s, he remembered how he used to sneak a peek at her in church. He thought back to the first time that he had perfectly timed it so that they ended up walking out of mass together and had continued on down the steps and all the way to the steps in front of her house, which was in the opposite direction from his. The first time hadn’t been the last.

  Johnny stopped in at Toscani’s Bakery and ordered two French crullers. Tina had worked the counter one summer, and Johnny made sure he stopped by and ordered the same thing every day until she went back to school. She noticed all right, and more often than not, he’d find an extra cruller or a chocolate éclair in his bag.

  He walked for another hour, and the neighborhood was full of memories of Tina, memories of Tina and him and of things that reminded him of Tina. When it was getting late and he walked past Angelina’s house on his way back, he realized that it was when he’d started going to Mrs. D’Angelo’s for his meals that something had come over the two of them. It was as if somebody had whispered “Yes” in both of their ears at the same time.