Vintage Modern Knits
Page 8
leg warmers: size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): set of 5 dpn.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
gauge
20 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles, worked in rounds.
34 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in twisted-stitch rib, unstretched, on larger needles, worked in rounds.
22 stitches and 33 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in twisted-stitch rib, stretched, on larger needles, worked in rounds.
finished size
mittens: About 8" (20.5 cm) hand circumference and 9½" (24 cm) long from cuff to top of hand.
leg warmers: About 10½" (26.5 cm) leg circumference at widest point, unstretched, and 13½" (34.5 cm) long.
Stitch Guide
Twisted Stitch Rib (multiple of 2 sts + 1)
ALL RNDS: *K1 through back loop (tbl), p1; rep from * to last st, k1tbl.
Left Dbl Dec
Sl 1 pwise, k2tog, psso—2 sts dec’d.
Right Dbl Dec
Ssk, sl 1 kwise, return 2 sts to left needle, pass second st on left needle over first, sl 1 pwise to right needle—2 sts dec’d.
Petal and Leaf Embroidery
Both mittens and leg warmers are finished with a petal and leaf embroidery pattern. The embroidery utilizes three techniques.
French Knot (worked in cat’s claw)
1. Pull yarn through fabric from back to front, then wrap yarn around the needle 3 times.
2. Place needle back into fabric close to (but not in) the space you came up through.
3. Using both hands and holding the yarn in one and the needle in the other, pull the needle so that the yarn is tight.
Lazy Daisy Stitch (worked in plum for petals)
1. Pull yarn through fabric from back to front. Place needle back into fabric close to (but not in) the space you came up through, and bring needle back up to the front at the tip of desired petal placement, about ⅝" (1.5 cm) from entry point.
2. Wrap the yarn counterclockwise under the needle and pull taut.
3. Secure stitch by bringing needle back down into fabric, looping over the tip of petal.
Straight Stitch (worked in yerba mate for stem)
1. Pull yarn through fabric from back to front. Place needle back in fabric desired distance from entry point, then come up at beginning of next stitch (next to original entry point).
2. Repeat once more.
3. Place needle back into fabric and secure at back.
MITTENS
Right Mitten
With MC and smaller needles, CO 40 sts. Divide sts evenly over 4 dpn (10 sts per needle), place marker (pm), and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts.
SET-UP RND: *P1, k2, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k2, p1; rep from *.
Cont in rib patt as established until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO, or desired cuff length.
INC RND: *P1f&b (see Glossary), k2, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k2, p1f&b, pm; rep from *—44 sts.
Hand
Change to larger needles and work Rnd 1 of Mitten chart across 22 sts for back of hand, sl m, knit to end for palm. Work Rnd 2 of chart as established.
Shape Thumb Gusset
NEXT RND: (Rnd 3 of chart) Work in patt to m, sl m, k1f&b (see Glossary), pm, k21—2 gusset sts.
NEXT RND: Work in patt to m, knit to 1 st before next m, k1f&b, sl m, knit to end—1 st inc’d.
Rep last rnd 7 more times—10 gusset sts.
NEXT RND: (Rnd 12 of chart) Work in patt to m, place next 10 sts on holder to work later for thumb, remove m, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 1 st over gap, knit to end—44 sts rem.
Upper Hand
Work even in patt through Rnd 38 of chart—piece measures
about 8" (20.5 cm) from CO.
DEC RND: Work in patt to m, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—4 sts dec’d.
Work 1 rnd even. Rep the last 2 rnds once more—36 sts rem. Rep dec rnd every rnd 7 times—8 sts rem.
Place 4 sts on each of 2 needles. Cut yarn, leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) tail. Thread tail on tapestry needle and use the Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft sts tog.
Mitten
Downolad the charts for this project here.
Leg Warmer
Thumb
Divide 10 held gusset sts evenly on 3 or 4 needles. Join MC and knit these 10 sts, then pick up and knit 2 sts at the base of the hand—12 sts total. Work even in St st until piece measures about 2" (5 cm) from pick-up rnd or ½" (1.3 cm) less than desired finished length. Dec as foll:
RND 1: *K2, k2tog; rep from *—9 sts rem.
RND 2: Knit.
RND 3: *K1, k2tog; rep from *—6 sts rem.
RND 4: *K2tog; rep from *—3 sts rem.
Cut yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and fasten off on WS.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Following photo, add French knots, leaves, and stems as described in Petal and Leaf Embroidery.
Left Mitten
Work as for right mitten to beg of thumb gusset, ending with Rnd 2 of chart.
Shape Thumb Gusset
NEXT RND: (Rnd 3 of chart) Work in patt to m, sl m, k21, pm, k1f&b—2 gusset sts.
NEXT RND: Work in patt to m, sl m, knit to next m, sl m, k1f&b, knit to end—1 st inc’d.
Rep last rnd 7 more times—10 gusset sts.
NEXT RND: (Rnd 12 of chart) Work in patt to m, sl m, knit to next m, remove m, place next 10 sts on holder to work later for thumb, use the backward-loop method to CO 1 st over gap—44 sts rem.
Work upper hand, thumb, and finishing as for right mitten.
LEG WARMERS
With MC and larger needles, CO 73 sts. Divide sts as evenly as possible on 4 needles, place marker (pm), and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts.
Ribbing
RNDS 1–12: [K1 through back loop (tbl), p1] 15 times, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p4, [k1tbl, p1] 15 times.
RND 13: [K1tbl, p1] 13 times, k1tbl, pm, p1, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, pm, [k1tbl, p1] 13 times.
Leg
RNDS 1 AND 2: Work in twisted st rib (see Stitch Guide) to m, slip marker (sl m), work Leg Warmer chart to next m, sl m, work in twisted st rib to end—79 sts.
Work even in patt through Rnd 13 of chart.
DEC RND: K1tbl, p1, left dbl dec (see Stitch Guide), work in patt to last 4 sts, right dbl dec (see Stitch Guide), p1—4 sts dec’d.
Rep dec rnd every 11th rnd 5 more times—55 sts rem. Cont in patt through Rnd 74 of chart—47 sts rem.
Cuff
RNDS 1–13: *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1tbl, sl m, p1, k2tbl, p4, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, sl m, *k1tbl, p1; rep from * to end.
Loosely BO all sts in patt.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Steam-block to measurements. Embroider flower and leaf motifs as described in Petal and Leaf Embroidery.
Winter Harbor
WINTER SOMEHOW MAKES the ocean appear sharper as every rock, wave, and bit of foam is frozen in focus. The crisp air, blustery wind, and blue ocean blind our senses in the cold, brief moments of sunlight. As the days grow short and the nights fall quickly, the light glowing from the hearth warms the soul as family and friends gather. A beautiful icy harbor and a cup of strong black tea are all welcome reminders of winter’s wonder.
This collection features a modern take on traditional coastal styles—soft as sea glass, but also stark and graphic like the winter sky against a rocky shore. Traditional Aran, Fair Isle, and gansey sweaters with updated fit and construction, ocean-inspired motifs, and accessories designed to block out the winter chill are the cornerstones of this collection.
Taking inspiration from the sea and the night sky, this watery palette features blues, pale neutrals, deep charcoal grays, and seafoam green. Each s
weater or accessory has a rugged look, but a definite feminine feel. They are meant to keep you comfortable throughout the long winter—pieces to layer while walking along a rocky coast on a crisp morning or warm sweaters to cuddle within while sitting by the fire.
Rhodes Point Gansey
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY
Named for a small town on Maryland’s last inhabited island in the Chesapeake Bay, this pullover is inspired by the rich tradition of fishermen’s ganseys. Traditionally a practical and hardwearing garment, this version has been updated to reflect a woman’s touch. The yarn, a rich soft blend of alpaca, silk, cashmere, and camel, is a far cry from the lanolin-rich, gutsy wool sweaters of times past. The silhouette has been updated as well, but without sacrificing the worthwhile historical techniques. To provide a more feminine fit, I created a modified set-in sleeve that is shaped with short-rows at the underarm. An “invented” Channel Island bind-off for the cuffs combines Icelandic and picot bind-off methods and mirrors the cast-ons at the welts.
Materials
yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
shown here: The Fibre Company Road to China (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% cashmere, 10% camel; 69 yd [63 m]/50 g): lapis, 15 (15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 22, 25, 25) skeins.
needles
body and sleeves: size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 24" (40 and 60 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
edging: size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): 16" and 24" (40 and 60 cm) cir and set of 4 or 5 dpn.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
gauge
20 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needle, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 35¼ (36¾, 38½, 40, 41½, 43¼, 46½, 48, 49½, 51¼)" (89.5 [93.5, 98, 101.5, 105.5, 110, 118, 122, 125.5, 130] cm) bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 38½" (98 cm).
Channel Island Cast-On
To begin, leave a tail of yarn that is about 2" (5 cm) long per stitch you are casting on. (For example, to cast on 10 stitches, leave a tail 20" [51 cm] long.) Fold this tail in half so that the yarn is doubled, make a slipknot near the open end of the folded tail and place the slipknot on the right-hand needle. There will be a strand of yarn attached to the ball as well as a short tail of yarn on one side of the slipknot and the double tail on the other side of the slipknot. Wrap the doubled tail counter-clockwise twice around your left thumb, place the strand attached to the ball over your left index finger, and let the short tail hang free.
STEP 1. Bring the needle under the single strand on your index finger to make a yarnover (Figure 1).
STEP 2. Bring the needle up through the doubled strands on your thumb, grab a loop of the single strand as if to knit, then bring the needle back down through the loops on your thumb (Figure 2).
STEP 3. Release the wraps from your thumb and pull gently to snug up the stitch as you wrap the doubled tail counterclockwise twice around your thumb in preparation to begin again—2 stitches have been cast on.
Repeat these 3 steps for the desired number of stitches, counting the slipknot for an odd number of stitches and omitting the slipknot for an even number of stitches.
figure 1
figure 2
Channel Island Bind-Off
STEP 1. *Insert tip of right-hand needle through first stitch on left-hand needle, leaving this stitch on the left-hand needle, then pull the second stitch on the left-hand needle through the first (Figure 1) and place it on the tip of the left-hand needle—the 2 stitches are crossed on the needle.
STEP 2. Knit the first of the crossed stitches and leave the old st on the needle (Figure 2).
STEP 3. Slip the new stitch onto the left-hand needle (Figure 3), and knit it again, then knit the next 2 stitches together (Figure 4).
STEP 4. Slip the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the first stitch (Figure 5) and off the needle to bind-off 1 stitch.
STEP 5. Return the remaining stitch to the left-hand needle.
Repeat these 5 steps for the desired number of stitches.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
figure 4
figure 5
Body
Welts (make two)
With smaller, longer cir needle and using the Channel Island method (see sidebar at left), CO 88 (92, 96, 100, 104, 108, 116, 120, 124, 128) sts. Do not join. Work in garter st (knit every row) for 12 rows—6 garter ridges.
Join Welts
With larger, longer cir needle and RS facing, knit across first welt, place marker (pm) to denote side seam, knit across second welt—176 (184, 192, 200, 208, 216, 232, 240, 248, 256) sts total. Pm to denote other side seam and beg of rnd and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts.
NEXT RND: P1, knit to 1 st before m, p1, slip marker (sl m), p1, knit to 1 st before next m, p1.
Rep this rnd 5 more times—6 rnds total.
Optional Initials
SET-UP RND: K12, pm, work initials as desired according to Alphabet chart, pm, work to end of rnd.
Following Alphabet chart and purling 2 sts at each side as established, cont in patt to end of Alphabet chart. Remove chart markers. Work even in St st with purl sts at each side until piece measures 12 (12½, 13, 13½, 14, 14, 15, 15½, 16, 16)" (30.5 [31.5, 33, 34.5, 35.5, 35.5, 38, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5] cm) from CO or desired length to underarm gusset.
Alphabet
Downolad the charts for this project here.
Shape Underarm Gusset
RND 1: *P1, knit to 1 st before next m, p1, pm, M1 (see Mirrored Increases), sl m; rep from * once more—2 sts inc’d.
RND 2: *P1, knit to 1 st before next m, p1, sl m, k1, sl m; rep from * once more.
RND 3: *P1, knit to 1 st before next m, p1, sl m, M1, knit to next m, M1, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d.
RNDS 4 AND 5: *P1, knit to 1 st before next m, p1, sl m, knit to next m; rep from * once more.
Rep the last 3 rnds 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times—11 (11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15) sts in each gusset worked as foll: P1, k9 (9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13), p1.
Straithes
Divide for Front and Back
NEXT RND: P1, knit to 1 st before next m, p1, k9 (9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13), p1 and place these 11 (11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15) sts on holder for gusset (remove markers), knit to 1 st before next m and place these 86 (90, 94, 98, 102, 106, 114, 118, 122, 126) sts on holder for back, p1, k9 (9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13), p1 (first st of next rnd) and place these 11 (11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15) sts on holder for gusset—86 (90, 94, 98, 102, 106, 114, 118, 122, 126) sts rem for front.
Front
Note: Chart beg before armhole shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding.
Working front sts back and forth in rows, shape armhole as foll:
DEC ROW: (RS) Work 3 sts in garter st, work 1 st in rev St st (purl on RS; knit on WS), pm, ssk, work to last 6 sts, k2tog, pm, work 1 st in rev St st, work 3 sts in garter st—2 sts dec’d.
Rep dec row every RS row 7 more times—70 (74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 98, 102, 106, 110) sts rem. At the same time when piece measures 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2)" (0 [0, 0, 0, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 5, 5] cm) from dividing row, ending with a WS row, work Rows 1–50 of Straithes chart between markers, then work Rows 1–6 once more—piece measures 6½ (6½, 6½, 6½, 7½, 7½, 7½, 7½, 8½, 8½)" (16.5 [16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21.5, 21.5] cm) from dividing row.
Shape Neck
K22 (23, 25, 26, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 35), place next 26 (28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 38, 38, 38, 40) sts on holder for neck, join new yarn and knit to end—22 (23, 25, 26, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 35) sts rem each side. Working each side separately in garter st, dec 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 4 times as foll:
DEC ROW: (RS) Knit to 3 sts before neck e
dge, k2tog, k1; on second side, k1, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d each side; 18 (19, 21, 22, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31) sts rem each side when all decs have been completed.
Place sts on holders.
Back
Return 86 (90, 94, 98, 102, 106, 114, 118, 122, 126) held back sts onto larger needle. Work as for front, omitting neck shaping and ending with Row 6 of chart. Leave sts on needle.
Join Shoulders
Place 18 (19, 21, 22, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31) held left front sts onto a second needle. With WS facing tog, use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to join left front sts tog with corresponding 18 (19, 21, 22, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31) back sts for left shoulder. Rep for right shoulder. Place rem 34 (36, 36, 38, 42, 42, 46, 46, 46, 48) back sts on a holder.