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Mark Kistler

Page 5

by You Can Draw In 30 Days The Fun Easy Way To Learn To Draw In One Month Or Less (pdf)


  6. Sketch in the two near lid flaps slanting down in front of the box.

  7. Once again, using the bottom of the box angles to guide your line directions, complete the near flaps, aligning them up in direction NE and NW. I will be repeating this idea often: Use the lines you have already drawn as reference angles to draw additional lines. By always referring to the lines you have already drawn and by continually checking your angles against the Drawing Direction Reference Cube, your drawings will look solid, focused, and, most importantly, three-dimensional.

  8. Draw the short “peeking” line at the back interior of the box. I am still delighted (after all these years) with the visual power that one little line has on the overall three-dimensional illusion of a drawing. This little peeking line at the back of the box creates the “BAM!” (as Emeril would say) moment in our

  drawing—the one precise moment that the sketch

  transforms from a two-dimensional sketch into a three-dimensional object.

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  9. Establish your horizon line and your light source position.

  10. To properly draw the cast shadow, use the Drawing Direction Reference Cube as reference. Draw a guide line extending from the bottom of the box line in drawing direction SW. Droop alert! This is the most common point where students tend to droop the cast shadow guide line. Notice how my cast shadow lines up with my guidelines.

  Be careful not to droop

  your cast shadow like this.

  11. Darken under the two front overlapping flaps as I have done, creating the undershadow effect.

  Undershadows are terrific little details that successful illustrators exploit to pop out objects, refine detail, and sharpen edges. In this specific drawing, undershadows have the power to really pull the

  overlapping lids toward your eye, while pushing the actual box deeper into the picture.

  LESSON 5: HOLLOW CUBES

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  12. This is the most rewarding step of each lesson. Clean up your sketch by erasing the extra sketch lines, and sharpen the outside edges of the drawing by darkening the outline. This will thrust the image out away from the background. Finish shading the left side of the box and inside the box, away from your light source. I always encourage you to have fun with these lessons by adding lots of extra details, neat little ideas you creatively conjure up to spice up your drawing. I’ve put a few small items in the box, just barely visible. Notice how even these little details add a lot of visual flavor and fun to the sketch.

  Lesson 5: Bonus Challenge

  Speaking of adding extra details to enhance your drawing, let’s expand on the cardboard box lesson. How about a treasure box overflowing with pearls, coins, and priceless loot? We are all so stressed about the economy, our mortgage payments, and health insurance premiums, so let’s take a reality vacation and draw our own wealth.

  1. Beginning with our basic cube, go

  ahead and draw in the Drawing Direc-

  tion Reference Cube direction lines

  for good practice and memory

  imprint. Slant the sides in just a bit.

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  2. Draw two parallel lines slightly opening the top of the treasure chest.

  3. Using the lines you have already drawn

  (sound familiar?) as reference, draw the top

  edge of the lid in the NW direction.

  4. Draw the near curving edge of the lid.

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  5. Using the lines you have already drawn (am I sounding repetitive?) as a reference, draw the top edge of the lid in direction NW. Notice how I slanted my top edge line a bit more than a direction NW line.

  This is because eventually all these NW direction lines will converge on a single vanishing point. I will explain this vanishing-point concept in great detail in a later lesson. For now, just follow my steps and slant your top edge line a bit more.

  6. Draw the two inside “peeking” lines.

  This is our “BAM” punch-out in 3-D

  moment; you’ve got to love this!

  7. Detail your drawing. Clean up any

  extra lines. Position your light source

  and add shading to all the opposite

  surfaces, darken the undershadows,

  and draw the cast shadow. Enjoy draw-

  ing the extra details to this lesson.

  Draw overflowing money, jewels, and

  pearls to your heart’s content!

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  Student examples

  Take a look at how these students added some great bonus details to this lesson.

  By Suzanne Kozloski

  By Brenda Jean Kozik

  By Ann Nelson

  LESSON 5: HOLLOW CUBES

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  L E S S O N 6

  STACKING TABLES

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  T his is a fun and rewarding lesson that was inspired by my fifth-grade art teacher, Bruce McIntyre (Mr. Mac). His enthusiasm for teaching kids how to draw had a profound and lasting effect on me. This lesson will gel all of the concepts and laws we have been discussing so far into one very cool three-dimensional drawing. Did I mention this is a really fun lesson? I bet that you will enjoy it so much that you will be stacking cubes on every scrap of paper that happens to be within your reach.

  1. Begin with a strong foreshortened square. Remember, I urge you to use the guide dots for all the lessons in this entire book. I know you are feeling very confident with your foreshortened squares, boxes, and cubes. However, humor me and use the guide dots each and every time. There is a solid reason for this, which I’ll explain in detail in a later lesson. Trust me, young grasshopper; all will be revealed in time.

  2. Draw two short edges to

  create the top of the table.

  3. Draw the middle line longer,

  using what extremely important

  drawing concept?

  4. Using the lines you have already

  drawn as reference, draw the bot-

  tom of this table top in directions

  NE and NW.

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  5. Draw the middle line longer to cre-

  ate the near edge of the table post.

  6. Draw the sides of the table post as

  I have done. Notice how each side line

  is drawn halfway from the far edge to

  the middle line. Look at my example.

  This is definitely a case where a pic-

  ture is better than a bunch of words.

  7. Using the lines you have already drawn as

  reference (I’m actually going to start cutting

  and pasting that sentence in each of these

  steps!), draw the bottom of the table post

  in directions NW and NE.

  LESSON 6: STACKING TABLES

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  8. Draw the horizon line just above the table, and position the light source above and to the right. I’m drawing the horizon line at this stage in the lesson to illustrate an important concept to you. All the drawings we have completed so far have been drawn from an above point of view (point of perspective), looking down at the object. The horizon line tell
s our eye that the object is below the horizon line, which communicates to our brain that the thickness, shadows, and foreshortening are from this perspective.

  The word “perspective” is rooted in the Latin spec, meaning “to see.” Think of spectacles, or eyeglasses, as assistance in seeing; a spectator as someone who sees an event; and speculation as the act of seeing possibilities. Perspective is the process of seeing the illusion of depth on our two-dimensional surface. In later lessons I will be teaching you how to draw objects above the horizon line with one-point and two-point perspective. For now, just remember that the position of the horizon line is above the object if you draw it in a looking-down point of view.

  9. ALERT! Very important step! Place a guide dot directly below the near corner of the table post. Many students forget to use this guide dot during this exercise—to the detriment of their drawings. If you don’t use the guide dot on every stacked table, your drawing may get progressively more skewed and impossibly distorted. A cool visual effect if you are channeling Andy Warhol, but a disaster if you are aiming for a sharp, focused, properly proportioned, foreshortened three-dimensional stack of tables.

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  10. Using the lines you have already drawn as reference (yes, again!), draw the front edge of the pedestal in directions NW and NE.

  LESSON 6: STACKING TABLES

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  11. ALERT! When you draw the back edges of the top of the pedestal, be sure to go behind the corner of the post. These two very short lines need to be lined up with the lines you have already drawn in directions NW and NE. This is the second most common mistake students will make drawing this lesson. Students have a strong tendency to connect these two short lines directly to the post corners. Fight your instinct to connect corners! Draw these lines behind the post.

  12. Complete the pedestal, making sure to draw the near corner lower. As always, use the lines you have already drawn as reference angles for drawing the bottom lines of the pedestal in directions NW and NE.

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  13. Using the lines you have already drawn for reference, extend out the cast shadow direction guide line.

  14. Add the cast shadow opposite your positioned light source, shade the table and pedestal, and add the dark undershadows of both sides of the post. Notice how that nice dark undershadow really pushes that post deep under the tabletop. There it is, another BAM moment for our lesson!

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  Here’s a great way to really get the important points of this lesson. Find a watch, clock, or cell phone that reads a second hand. I want you to time yourself drawing this single table on a pedestal. Try it two or three times with a timer, and see if you can get your completion time down to two minutes. I do this timed exercise with all of my students from elementary school grades all the way up through my university workshops.

  The purpose of having you draw this image in a specific amount of time is to train your hand to confidently draw these foreshortened shapes and overlapping corners and, most importantly, to embed the drawing compass angles into your hand memory. The angles NW, NE, SW, and SE will begin to have a certain comfortable feel to them. The more you practice this single table with a pedestal, the more comfortable and confident your lines will be in all of the upcoming lessons and all of the drawings you will ever create in the future. This is an excellent drawing exercise to dwell on for several days.

  By Julie Einerson

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  Lesson 6: Bonus Challenge

  Now, for the really fun level of this lesson. Just how far do you want to stretch your drawing skills today? Take a look at my drawing journal page.

  You can see that I really enjoyed myself with this supertall, curving table tower.

  Now take a look at a few student examples of this same exercise.

  LESSON 6: STACKING TABLES

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  Student examples

  Do you have fifteen more minutes to try one of these monster table towers? Sure, go for it! Be sure to note your start time and your end time on your sketch page. I’m fairly certain you’ll end up spending several fifteen-to-thirty-minute chunks of your day doodling these wonderful wacky table towers. Not only are they terrific practice exercises to really nail down the specific skills of foreshortening, alignment, undershadow, shading, placement, size, and proportion; these table towers also are addictively fun to draw.

  By Michele Proos

  By Steven Pitsch, Jr.

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  L E S S O N 7

  ADVANCED-LEVEL CUBES

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  In this lesson I want to build on this pivotal skill of drawing three-dimensional cubes. I want you to be able to have complete control of drawing the cube and the ability to manipulate it into many more advanced shapes. You will soon discover in later chapters that the ability to manipulate the cube will enable you to draw a house, a tree, a canyon, and even a human face. “How can you transform a boring cube into a tree or a human face?” you ask. I’ll tell you . . . later, but first . . .

  1. Using guide dots (as you will for all the

  2. Lightly draw the sides down, and draw the

  lessons of this book, right?), draw a well-

  middle line longer (sketch lightly as these are practiced sharp foreshortened square.

  just the beginning shape-forming lines).

  3. Draw the bottom of the cube using the

  lines you have already drawn as reference.

  For the purpose of review, go ahead and

  extend all of your direction NW and NE

  lines out as I have done here.

  4. Draw the all-important guide dot just

  below the near corner. This guide dot

  determines the angle of your foreshort-

  ened second layer. If your guide dot is

  placed too low, it will distort the layer and

  throw the entire building out of alignment.

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  5. Using the lines you have already drawn for reference, draw the near edges of the second tier in directions NE and NW. When I am drawing my

  own illustrations, I still dart my eyes back and forth constantly between my first “primer” compass angles to each line angle I am adding. Think of how many times each minute you glance at

  your rearview mirror while driving. You do this without even thinking, because it is so deeply

  ingrained in your subconscious. This is exactly the level of comfort, ease, and habit I want you ê

  to form with this constant, vigilant reference to your drawing compass angles.

  6. Look at your NE angle at the

  top foreshortened square of your

  box. Now, look at all the NE

  drawing compass direction arrows

  you drew in step 3. Now, take

  your pencil and trace over those

  direction lines lightly to embed

  the angle of the line into your

  hand memory. After a few of these rehearsal

  ë

  pencil strokes, quickly move your hand to the left of the cube and draw the direction NE line behind the corner. Repeat this same technique to draw

  the NW line on th
e other side to create the top of the second layer of the building. I do this

  rehearsal shadow drawing all the time, with every drawing I create. I am constantly referring back to my initial foreshortened square source, shadow

  drawing the angles again and again before dash-

  ing off the lines that build my drawings.

  7. Complete the second layer of the building.

  Double-check your bottom lines against drawing

  compass direction arrows NW and NE.

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  8. Begin drawing the doors on the top level with two vertical lines on each side. To make sure your lines are actually vertical, straight up and down, look at the edge of your paper. All of your vertical lines should be parallel with the edge of your paper. You should glance at the vertical edge of your paper every time you are drawing a vertical line, or you run the risk of the objects in your picture severely leaning over to one side or the other. Here’s an interesting point to note: The near edge line of each doorway needs to be drawn a bit larger than the far edge line. This uses the important concept of size. The near part of the door needs to be ì

  drawn larger to create the three-dimensional illusion that it is actually closer to you. This underscores a fundamental principle of drawing: To make an object appear closer to your eye, draw it larger than other objects in the picture.

  9. Curve the tops of both doorways on the top floor of the building.

  10. To create the illusion that these doors actually exist as three-dimensional entrances to this building, we need to add thickness to them. Let’s review the simple thickness rule:

  If the door is on the right, the thickness is on the right.

  î

  If the door is on the left, the thickness is on the left.

  Memorize this rule, repeat it, and practice it (I teach this rule to my university students as often as I do to my elementary school students). This thickness rule will always apply—to any door, window, hole, or entrance to any object you will ever draw. Knowing this rule by heart will get you out of many a drawing quandary in complicated renderings.

 

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