Travelers' Tales Thailand: True Stories (Travelers' Tales Guides)

by James O'Reilly

  Vatcharin Bhumichitr is a Thai chef and restaurateur who has lived in England for many years. He is the author of A Taste of Thailand, from which this was excerpted.

  THE NEXT STEP

  WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

  WHEN TO GO/WEATHER

  Thailand’s tropical climate is hot and humid year-round. The year is divided into three seasons: hot, cool, and rainy. The cool season, between mid-November and February, is the best time to visit. Temperatures are in the 80s and the air is dry; in the North, nighttime temperatures can drop to the low 40s so take a sweater. In the hot season, (March to May), temperatures average 93°F and commonly reach 105°F. With humidity hovering at 90 percent, it is a good time to head for the beaches, and Thailand has some of the most beautiful in Asia.

  In the rainy season, temperatures range between 80°F and 90°F between June and mid-November. While September experiences the heaviest rain-falls, even it has bright sunny patches. Many travelers avoid this season but it offers the freshest air and the greenest scenery. After heavy storms in June, rains taper off from mid-July through August, prelude to the deluges of September. Rain falls heaviest in the south; lightest in the Northeast. From mid-September through mid-November, monsoon-swollen tides combine with storms to flood Bangkok’s streets, bringing life to a standstill. It is a messy time but a great one for seeing how Thais cope in a carefree manner with adversity. If traveling upcountry, however, be prepared for washed out roads and railways.

  CUSTOMS AND ARRIVAL

  All visitors must have a passport valid for at least six months longer than their intended stay in Thailand.

  Transit Visas

  Those entering the country with an onward airline ticket and who plan to stay no more than 30 days can obtain a Tourist/Transit Visa on arrival. These visas cannot be extended. Stays up to 60 days require a Tourist Visa obtainable from a Thai diplomatic mission. They may be extended by 30 days at Immigration Department offices in Bangkok and major cities for 500 baht.Visitors overstaying their limit are fined 100B for each day upon departure.

  Up to 200 cigarettes, 250 grams of cigars, and one liter of wine or spirits, can be imported duty free. Officially, one still camera, video camera, or movie camera, five rolls of still camera film, or three rolls of 8 to 16mm movie camera film may be brought into the country, but officials generally ignore camera-laden tourists, feeling that the photos they take will attract more visitors. Nonetheless, reasonably-priced major brands of film are available in Bangkok and tourist destinations, as is processing. Narcotics, obscene materials, firearms, and explosives are prohibited.

  GETTINGINTO THE CITY

  Thai Airways International (thai) and several private companies offer air-conditioned limousine service to and from Bangkok’s Don Muang International Airport; there is also direct service between the airport and the beach resort at Pattaya. Ordinary taxis can be hired at a desk on the south end of the airport.There are two types—metered and unmetered—and you are advised to use the unmetered. Air-conditioned airport buses make the 18-mile journey into the city along three routes and are a safe, economical means of reaching many destinations; luggage space is provided at no extra cost.

  HEALTH

  The only vaccinations required before entry are those for Yellow Fever from anyone who has visited an African nation in the preceding seven days. You are advised, however, to consider several vaccinations at least six weeks before you leave home. Opinions vary on what is necessary, but it’s a good idea to have current immunizations for tetanus, typhoid, polio, Hepatitis A and B, Japanese B encephalitis, and rabies. See a tropical medicine specialist for the best advice.

  Some Helpful Tips:

  ◆ Get a checkup before you leave home. In the case of a medical emergency, Bangkok hospitals and doctors are first-rate.

  ◆ Don’t drink the tap water. Drink bottled water or purify tap water. Ice in large restaurants can be trusted.

  ◆ Peel or boil vegetables and peel fruit before eating.

  ◆ If you wear prescription glasses, bring an extra pair.

  ◆ Rehydrate, rehydrate, rehydrate.

  ◆ Take the proper precautions against mosquitoes: wear a good repellent and sleep under a net when possible. If there is no net or screen where you are sleeping, burn mosquito coils or use the inexpensive electric type that burn odorless pads.

  Pack a medical kit which includes: aspirin or acetaminophen, antihistamine, antibiotics, Lomotil or Imodium for diarrhea, rehydration mixture, antiseptic such as iodine or Betadine, Calamine lotion, bandages, bandaids, tweezers, scissors, thermometer, cold and flu tablets, insect repellent, sunscreen, chapstick, water purification tablets, and possibly even sterile syringes with needles, dressings, and gloves. All, however, are available in pharmacies in Bangkok and major cities.

  Also consider taking a travel kit of basic homeopathic remedies and a homeopathic first aid book. Such remedies can provide rapid relief from common travel ailments including gastrointestinal problems, fevers, and many acute conditions. Books and travel kits are available through your local health food store. If you come home with any serious tropical diseases, including malaria, effective treatment is available from homeopathic medical practitioners.

  Emergency Assistance

  If you have an unexpected health problem and don’t know where to turn, the following hospitals in Bangkok tend to have a better understanding of the English language:

  Bangkok General Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7 New Petchburi Road Tel: (662) 318-0066

  Bumrungrad Hospital 33 Sukhumvit Soi 3 Wattana Tel: (662) 667-1000/emergency 667-2999

  Samitivej Hospital 133 Sukhumvit Soi 49 Klong Tan Nua,Vadhana Tel: (662) 392-0011

  Travel Insurance and Assistance

  It’s a good idea to get a travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss, and medical problems. Your travel agent can recommend a good insurer. Be sure to read the fine print to see if the policy includes “dangerous activities,” a.k.a. “all the fun stuff you want to do,” (scuba diving, trekking, motorcycling). Also, check to see if the policy covers ambulances or emergency evacuation. If treated by a doctor in Thailand, keep all bills and receipts for processing claims back home.

  Several U.S. and European companies provide emergency medical assistance for travelers worldwide, including 24-hour help lines, English-speaking doctors, and air evacuation in extreme cases. Travel agents and tour companies can recommend reliable companies.

  TIME

  Thailand is seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Thus, when it’s noon in Thailand, it is: 9 p.m. yesterday in San Francisco (10 p.m. during Daylight Savings months) 7 a.m. today in London midnight today in New York (1 a.m. during Daylight Savings months)

  1 p.m. today in Hong Kong 2 p.m. today in Tokyo 3 p.m. today in Sydney

  Thais tell time both by the military system (1430 hours, etc.) and an ancient system based on six-hour segments. For all practical purposes you won’t need to know this system, but its worthwhile being famliar with it. From 6 a.m. to noon, the classifier is “chow” (morning) as in “nung [1] mong [hour] chow [morning] (7 a.m.), song [2] mong chow (8 a.m.) etc. up to noon (Tieng). The six hours from noon to 6 p.m. are designated by the word “bai” as in “bai song [two] mong” (2 p.m.) although from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., the hour is called “yen” [evening] as in “ha [five] mong yen” [5 p.m.]. From 6 p.m. to midnight, Thais use “thum” [the sound of a drumbeat], as in “song thum” (8 p.m.) etc. up to midnight (song yaam). From then to 6 a.m., the word “thi” [the sound of a gong being struck] precedes each hour designation i.e. “thi song” [2 a.m].

  BUSINESSHOURS

  Businesses are open Monday through Friday from 8:00 or 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 or 5:30 p.m. Large department stores are open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., seven days a week. Other stores generally open at 10, close at 6. Government offices are open 8:30 a.m. to noon, 1 p.m. to 4:30 p.m, Monday through Friday. Banks open at 8.30 a.m., close at 3.30 p.m., Mondays through Fridays. Foreign exchange kiosks operated by
banks open at 9 a.m., close at 8 p.m.

  MONEY

  In Thailand, the unit of currency is the baht. It is divided into 100 satang. Paper money comes in denominations of 10B (brown), 20B (green), 50B (blue), 100B (red), 500B (purple), and 1,000B (gray). Brass coins are valued at 25 and 50 satang while silver coins are in denominations of 1, 2 and 5B. A 10B coin is composed of both silver and brass. There is no currency black market.

  Credit cards (American Express,Visa, Master Card, and Diner’s Club), debit cards, ATM cards and traveler’s checks can all be used to obtain baht at ATM machines; there are over 2500 ATMs nationwide, but a minimum 1.5% surcharge is usually attached. Traveler’s checks can be cashed at banks throughout the country, (even small towns have foreign exchange services); exchange rates are better than those for cash. The Bangkok Post and The Nation newspapers post the current exchange rates.

  Visitors are allowed to bring unlimited foreign currency in and out of the country, although amounts exceeding US$10,000 must be declared. A maximum amount of 50,000B per person is allowed to be taken out of the country.

  ELECTRICITY

  Electric current is 220V, 50 cycles. Most electrical wall outlets accept the round, two pole plugs. You will find some that take the flat, two bladed terminals. Voltage converters and international plug adapters can be bought at any electrical supply shop.

  MEDIA:NEWSPAPERS, RADIO, AND TELEVISION

  Thailand’s English-language press has recently been ranked the best in Asia, by a survey conducted by the Political and Economic Risk Consultancy. The group comprises 180 expatriate managers in 10 Asian countries, and cites the Bangkok Post and The Nation as their main source of regional and global news. The Bangkok Post, delivered in the morning, is better known for its international coverage, while The Nation, also a morning paper, is reputed to have better national and regional coverage. The International Herald Tribune, Asian Wall Street Journal, Time, Newsweek and other popular US and UK magazines can be found in bookstores in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, and Pattaya. Metropolitan newspapers from major world cities are also sold, although the price is often high.

  Radio Thailand, Bangkok’s national public radio station, broadcasts English-language programs on 97 FM from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. This is the station to listen to for up-to-date news reports, local, national, international news, sports, business, and special features. Station 105 FM also broadcasts news in English. A similar station is 107 FM. BBC World Service, the Voice of America, Radio Canada, Radio New Zealand, Singapore Broadcasting Company, and Radio Australia all have English and Thai-language broadcasts over short-wave radio. The frequencies and schedules change regularly and can be found in the Bangkok Post and The Nation.

  ABC, CNN International, and English-subtitled Thai programs can be found between 6 and 10 a.m. on Channel 1. Channel 2 airs variety shows and English-speaking series. Channel 4 is ESPN sports. Channel 5 is HBO in English. Channel 8 hosts the Discovery Channel in English. Most hotels offer cable and/or satellite service.

  TOUCHINGBASE: PHONE CALLS, FAXES, POSTAGE, EMAIL

  The postal and telecommunications system in Thailand is efficient. International calls, faxes, and telexes can be made from GPO telephone offices throughout the country. In most provincial capitals they are open daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.; shorter hours prevail in smaller towns. Bangkok’s international phone office in the GPO and at the Telephone Organization of Thailand (TOT) on Ploenchit Road next to the Le Meridian President Hotel, is open 24 hours. Large hotels offer DDD service from the room.

  Air-mail letters and packages can be sent from any post office; the post office can sell you the packing boxes for small items. Travelers with American Express cards can receive mail at SEA Tourist Company Limited (2) 216-5934, 128 Rajthevee Road, Suite 88-92, 8-F Phayathai Plaza. Their hours are 8:30 to noon and 1 to 4:30 p.m. during the week, and 8:30 to 11:30 a.m. on Saturday.

  Email and Internet access is very cheap and plentiful throughout Thailand. Once the domain of large international hotels, Internet access and up-to-date computer systems are now found in bookstores, bars, coffee houses, travel agencies, on just about every block in the main cities and resort areas, and even in the smaller towns and villages. The average cost on the street is about 100B per hour ($2) with extra charges for printing. Expect to pay more in the larger hotels. For those travelers carrying laptops, arrangements can be made for direct connections at Internet access facilities, and many hotel rooms now have dedicated telephone jacks for this purpose.

  CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS

  LOCALCUSTOMS: DOS AND DON’TS

  ◆ Disrespect for the monarchy is considered a serious offense in Thailand. Thais have a deep reverence for their royal family and visitors should show respect for the king, the queen, and the royal children. This includes standing when the royal anthem is played in a cinema or when they see others standing at attention when the national anthem is played at 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. daily.

  ◆ Wai is what the Thais do instead of shaking hands.You press your palms together as if praying, and raise them before your face.

  ◆ Maintain “jai yen,” or a “cool heart.” To the Thais, getting angry means a loss of face for everyone present. Hold your temper under all circumstances. Talking loudly is considered rude.

  ◆ Thais believe that the head is the most sacred part of the body. Do not touch anyone’s head except very small children.

  ◆ Never stand over someone, especially monks and those older or wiser as it implies social superiority. To be courteous, lower your head when you pass a group of people.

  ◆ The feet are considered the lowest part of the body. Don’t point them at people or objects and when seated, make sure the soles of your feet are not facing anyone. Do not step over anyone reclining on the ground.

  ◆ Don’t sit on pillows or on books, both associated with the head.

  ◆ Shorts, sleeveless shirts, and tank tops are gaining popularity among young Thais but only in informal situations. Otherwise, dress casually but neatly. When visiting a Buddhist temple or Muslim mosque, dress conservatively and remember to take your shoes off when you enter.

  ◆ Nudity on beaches and public displays of affection is offensive to most Thais.

  ◆ You can stand next to or below a Buddha image while having your photo taken but not atop it or in its lap; tourists who overlooked this rule have been jailed. Buddhist monks must be treated with respect at all times; women are not allowed to touch them, nor can monks accept anything from a woman’s hand. The back seats and front window seats on buses are reserved for the monks; passengers must vacate when necessary.

  ◆ Thais are sociable and often mix business with pleasure. The person who has extended the invitation pays for the meals or drinks. If it isn’t clear who extended the invitation, the senior-most person at the table has the honor of paying. If you are the only foreigner present, it is polite to offer to pay but will generally not be accepted.

  ◆ Avoid scheduling a meeting after 3:30 p.m., because Thais like to get an early start on the evening rush-hour trip home.

  EVENTS & HOLIDAYS

  These days are observed as official public holidays:◆ New Year’s Day: January 1

  ◆ Magha Puja: February full moon

  ◆ Chakri Day: April 6

  ◆ Songkran: April 13

  ◆ Labor Day: May 1

  ◆ Coronation Day: May 5

  ◆ Visakha Puja: May full moon

  ◆ Asalaha Puja: July full moon

  ◆ H.M. the Queen’s Birthday: August 12