Treasure Gallery
In the northeastern corner of the complex is a mini Forbidden City known as the Treasure Gallery (珍宝馆; Zhēn Bǎo Guǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City; ¥10), or Complete Palace of Peace and Longevity (宁寿全宫; Níng Shǒu Quán Gōng). During the Ming dynasty, the Empress Dowager and the imperial concubines lived here. Today it comprises a number of atmospheric halls, pavilions, gardens and courtyard buildings that hold a collection of fine museums.
The complex is entered from the south – not far from the Clock Exhibition Hall. Just inside the entrance, you’ll find the beautiful glazed Nine Dragon Screen (九龙壁; Jiǔlóng Bì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City; included in through ticket), one of only three of its type left in China.
Visitors then work their way north, exploring a number of peaceful halls and courtyards before being popped out at the northern end ( GOOGLE MAP ) of the Forbidden City. Don’t miss the Pavilion of Cheerful Melodies (畅音阁; Chàngyīn Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City), a three-storey wooden opera house, which was the palace’s largest theatre. Note the trap doors that allowed actors to make dramatic stage entrances.
Western & Eastern Palaces
A dozen smaller palace courtyards lie to the west and east of the three lesser central halls. It was in these smaller courtyard buildings that most of the emperors actually lived and many of the buildings, particularly those to the west, are decked out in imperial furniture. Those that are open to the public have cultural exhibitions displaying anything from temple musical instruments to ceremonial bronze vessels and ceramics.
oTiān’ānmén SquareSQUARE
(天安门广场, Tiān’ānmén Guǎngchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bLine 1 to Tian’anmen West, Tian’anmen East, or Line 2 to Qianmen)F
Flanked by stern 1950s Soviet-style buildings and ringed by white perimeter fences, the world’s largest public square (440,000 sq metres) is an immense flatland of paving stones at the heart of Běijīng. If you get up early, you can watch the flag-raising ceremony at sunrise, performed by a troop of People’s Liberation Army (PLA) soldiers drilled to march at precisely 108 paces per minute, 75cm per pace. The soldiers emerge through the Gate of Heavenly Peace to goose-step impeccably across Chang’an Jie; all traffic is halted. The same ceremony in reverse is performed at sunset.
oNational Museum of ChinaMUSEUM
(中国国际博物馆, Zhōngguó Guójì Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://en.chnmuseum.cn; Guangchangdongce Lu, Tiān’ānmén Sq; 天安门，广场东侧路 audio guide ¥30; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, last entry 4pm; bLine 1 to Tian'anmen East, exit D)F
Běijīng’s premier museum is housed in an immense 1950s communist-style building on the eastern side of Tiān’ānmén Sq, and is well worth visiting. The Ancient China exhibition on the basement floor is outstanding. You could easily spend a couple of hours in this exhibition alone. It contains dozens and dozens of stunning examples of ceramics, calligraphy jade and bronze pieces dating from prehistoric China through to the Qing dynasty. It's all displayed beautifully in modern, spacious, low-lit exhibition halls. You'll need your passport to gain entry.
Dōngchéng Central
1Top Sights
1Chairman Mao Memorial HallB7
2National Museum of ChinaB7
3QianmenB8
4Tiān'ānmén SquareB7
1Sights
5Běijīng Police MuseumC7
6Běijīng Railway MuseumB8
7Former Foreign Legation QuarterB7
8Galaxy SohoG4
9Shǐjiā Hútòng MuseumE4
10St Joseph's ChurchD5
11Zhìhuà TempleG5
2Activities, Courses & Tours
12Bike BěijīngC3
13Mílún Kungfu SchoolD5
4Sleeping
14Běijīng Feel InnC5
15City Walls CourtyardB2
16Húlú HotelE4
17Jǐngshān Garden HotelB3
18Temple HotelC2
19W BěijīngG7
5Eating
20Běijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck RestaurantE5
21Crescent Moon Muslim RestaurantF2
22Din Tai FungD5
23Lìqún Roast Duck RestaurantC8
24Little YúnnánC3
25Lost HeavenB8
26Temple RestaurantC2
27Wángfǔjǐng Snack StreetD6
28Yīzhēn YuánF8
6Drinking & Nightlife
Biking CafeC3
29Slow Boat Brewery TaproomE2
3Entertainment
30DDCC2
Modernsky LabG4
7Shopping
31Foreign Languages BookstoreD5
32Háoyuán MarketD6
33Oriental PlazaD6
34Slow LaneF4
35Wangfujing DajieD6
oWorkers Cultural PalacePARK
(劳动人民文化宫, Láodòng Rénmín Wénhuà Gōng, Imperial Ancestral Temple MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tennis court 010 6512 2856; park entrance ¥2, Sacrificial Hall ¥15; h6.30am-7.30pm; bLine 1 to Tian'anmen East, exit A)
Despite the prosaic name and its location at the very heart of town, this reclusive park, between Tiān’ānmén Sq and the Forbidden City, is one of Běijīng’s best-kept secrets. Few visitors divert here from their course towards the main gate of the Forbidden City, but this was the emperor’s premier place of worship and contains the Sacrificial Hall (Front Hall, 太庙, Tài Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Workers Cultural Palace; ¥15); as exquisite as any temple you'll find in Běijīng.
oChairman Mao Memorial HallMAUSOLEUM
(毛主席纪念堂, Máo Zhǔxí Jìniàntáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tiān’ānmén Sq; bag storage ¥10, electonics storage per device ¥10; h7am-noon Tue-Sun; bLine 1 to Tian’anmen West or Tian’anmen East or Line 2 to Qianmen)F
No doubt one of Běijīng's more surreal spectacles is the sight of Mao Zedong's embalmed corpse on public display within his mausoleum. The Soviet-inspired memorial hall was constructed soon after Mao died in September 1976, and is a prominent landmark in the middle of Tiān’ānmén Sq. He is still revered across much of China, as evidenced by the perpetual snaking queues of locals here clutching flowers to pay their respects; some are reduced to tears but most are in high spirits, treating it like any other stop along their Běijīng tour.
oQiánménHISTORIC SITE
(前门, Front Gate, Zhèngyáng Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20, audio guide ¥20; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; bLine 2 to Qianmen, exit B or C)
Qiánmén, aka Front Gate, actually consists of two gates. The northernmost of the two gates is the 40m-high Zhèngyáng Gate (正阳门城楼; Zhèngyáng Mén Chénglóu), which dates from the Ming dynasty and which was the largest of the nine gates of the Inner City Wall separating the inner, or Tartar (Manchu) city, from the outer, or Chinese city. With the disappearance of the city walls, the gate sits out of context, but it can be climbed for decent views of the square and of Arrow Tower, immediately to the south.
oGate of Heavenly PeaceHISTORIC SITE
(天安门, Tiān’ānmén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xichang'an Jie, 西长安街 ¥15, bag storage ¥3-6; h8.30am-4.30pm, to 4pm Nov-Mar; bLine 1 to Tian’anmen West, exit B or Line 1 to Tian’anmen East, exit A)
Characterised by a giant framed portrait of Mao Zedong, and guarded by two pairs of Ming stone lions, the double-eaved Gate of Heavenly Peace, north of Tiān’ānmén Sq, is a potent national symbol. Built in the 15th century and restored in the 17th century, the gate was formerly the largest of the four gates of the Imperial City Wall, and it was from this gate that Mao proclaimed the People’s Republic of China on 1 October 1949. Today’s political coterie watches mass troop parades from here.
oJǐngshān ParkPARK
(景山公园, Jǐngshān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jingshan Qianjie, 景山前街 adult/child ¥10/5; h6.30am-9pm; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit A)
The dominating feature of Jǐngshān – one of the city’s finest parks – is one of central Běijīng’s few hills; a mound that was created from the earth excavated to ma
ke the Forbidden City moat. Called Coal Hill by Westerners during Legation days, Jǐngshān also serves as a feng shui shield, protecting the palace from evil spirits – or dust storms – from the north. Clamber to the top for a magnificent panorama of the capital and princely views over the russet roofing of the Forbidden City.
Galaxy SohoARCHITECTURE
(银河Soho, Yínhé Soho MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chaoyangmennei Dajie, 朝阳门内大街 bLines 2, 6 to Chaoyangmen, exit G)
Along with the CCTV Tower and the Bird's Nest, Běijīng's striking Galaxy Soho has announced itself as one the capital's modern architectural landmarks. Opened in 2012, it stands in direct juxtaposition to the adjoining hútòng housing (which controversially was cleared for its development). It was designed by acclaimed British-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid (1950–2016), and typical of her work, it's characterised by its flowing, sleek contours and an interconnected design with adjoining walkways and space-age Modernist facade.
Zhìhuà TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(智化寺, Zhìhuà Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5 Lumicang Hutong, 禄米仓胡同5号 adult ¥20, audio guide ¥10, Wed free; h8.30am-4.30pm, closed Mon; bLines 1, 2 to Jianguomen, exit A or Lines 2, 6 to Chaoyangmen, exit G)
Běijīng’s surviving temple brood has endured casual restoration that often buried authenticity. But this rickety nonactive temple, hidden down a rarely visited hútòng, is thick with the flavours of old Peking, having eluded the Dulux treatment that invariably precedes entrance-fee inflation and stomping tour groups.
Shǐjiā Hútòng MuseumMUSEUM
(史家胡同博物馆, Shǐjiā Hútòng Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 24 Shijia Hutong, 史家胡同24号 h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; bLine 5 to Dengshikou)F
Within a pleasant, renovated double courtyard, which used to be a local kindergarten, is this small museum that explains the history of Shǐjiā Hútòng, and of Běijīng's hútòng districts in general. There are interesting large-scale models, old photos and a range of artefacts, all with excellent English captions throughout.
Great Hall of the PeopleNOTABLE BUILDING
(人民大会堂, Rénmín Dàhuìtáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Renda Huitang W Rd; adult ¥30, bag deposit ¥2-5; h8.15am-4pm, times vary; bLine 1 to Qianmen, exit A, or Line 1 to Tian'anmen West, exit C)
On the western side of Tiān’ānmén Sq, on a site previously occupied by Taichang Temple, the Jinyiwei (Ming dynasty secret service) and the Ministry of Justice, the Great Hall of the People is the venue of the legislature, the National People’s Congress (NPC). The 1959 Soviet-style architecture (which features on the ¥100 note) is monolithic and intimidating, and a fitting symbol of China’s huge bureaucracy. The ticket office is down the south side of the building; bags must be checked in but cameras are admitted.
St Joseph’s ChurchCHURCH
(东堂, Dōng Táng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 74 Wangfujing Dajie, 王府井大街74号 hservices 6.30am & 7am Mon-Sat, 7am Sun; bLine 5 to Dengshikou, exit A)F
A crowning edifice on Wangfujing Dajie, and one of Běijīng’s four principal churches, St Joseph’s is known locally as Dōng Táng (East Cathedral). Originally built during the reign of Shunzhi in 1655, it was damaged by an earthquake in 1720 and reconstructed. The luckless church also caught fire in 1807, was destroyed again in 1900 during the Boxer Rebellion and restored in 1904, only to be shut in 1966. Now fully repaired, the church is a testament to the long history of Christianity in China.
Ancient ObservatoryOBSERVATORY
(古观象台, Gǔ Guānxiàngtái MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Erhuandong Lu, Jianguomen Qiao, 二环东路建国门桥, Jianguomen Bridge, East 2nd Ring Rd adult ¥20; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, last entry 4.30pm; bLines 1, 2 to Jianguomen, exit A)
This unusual former observatory is mounted on the battlements of a watchtower lying along the line of the old Ming City Wall and originally dates back to Kublai Khan’s days, when it lay north of the present site. Kublai, like later Ming and Qing emperors, relied heavily on astrologers to plan military endeavours. The present observatory – the only surviving example of several constructed during the Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties – was built between 1437 and 1446 to facilitate both astrological predictions and seafaring navigation.
Poly Art MuseumMUSEUM
(保利艺术博物馆, Bǎolì Yìshù Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6500 8117; www.polymuseum.com; 9th fl, Poly Plaza, 14 Dongzhimen Nandajie, 东直门南大街14号保利大厦9层 ¥20, audio guide ¥10; h9.30am-5pm, closed Sun; bLine 2 to Dongsi Shitiao, exit D)
This small but exquisite museum displays a glorious array of ancient bronzes from the Shang and Zhou dynasties, a magnificent high-water mark for bronze production. Check out the intricate scaling on the ‘Zūn vessel in the shape of a Phoenix' (倗季凤鸟尊) or the ‘Yǒu with Divine Faces’ (神面卣), with its elephant head on the side of the vessel. The detailed animist patterns on the Gangbo You (棡柏卣) are similarly vivid and fascinating.
Former Foreign Legation QuarterHISTORIC BUILDING
(租界区, Zūjiè Qū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bLine 2 to Qianmen, exit A or Lines 2, 5 to Chongwenmen, exit A1)
The former Foreign Legation Quarter, where the 19th-century foreign powers flung up their embassies, schools, post offices and banks, lies east of Tiān’ānmén Sq. Apart from the Běijīng Police Museum (北京警察博物馆; Běijīng Jǐngchá Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8522 5018; 36 Dongjiaomin Xiang; 东交民巷36号 adult ¥5, through ticket ¥20; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun, last entry 3.30pm; bLine 2 to Qianmen, exit A) and a complex of trendy restaurants facing onto a grass quadrangle, accessed from the south, you can’t enter most of the buildings. Many are now used as government buildings, but a stroll along the streets here (Dongjiaomin Xiang, Taijichang Dajie and Zhengyi Lu) gives you a hint of the area’s former European flavour.
DON'T MISS
CLOCK EXHIBITION HALL
The Clock Exhibition Hall (钟表馆; Zhōngbiǎo Guǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥10; h8.30am-4pm summer, to 3.30pm winter) is one of the unmissable highlights of the Forbidden City. Located in the Hall for Ancestral Worship (奉先殿; Fèngxiān Diàn), the exhibition contains an astonishing array of elaborate timepieces, many of which were gifts to the Qing emperors from overseas. Many of the 18th-century examples are crafted by James Cox or Joseph Williamson (both of London) and imported through Guǎngdōng from England; others are from Switzerland, America and Japan. Exquisitely wrought, fashioned with magnificently designed elephants and other creatures, they all display astonishing artfulness and attention to detail. Standout clocks include the Gilt Copper Astronomy Clock equipped with a working model of the solar system, and the automaton-equipped Gilt Copper Clock with a robot writing Chinese characters with a brush. The Qing court must surely have been amazed by their ingenuity.
Time your arrival for 11am or 2pm to see the clock performance in which choice timepieces strike the hour and give a display to wide-eyed children and adults.
BěIJīNG MUSEUM PASS
If you’re staying in the capital for a while, the Běijīng Museum Pass (博物馆通票; Bówùguǎn Tōngpiào %010 6222 3793; www.bowuguan.com.cn; annual pass ¥120) – website and phone service in Chinese only – is a decent investment that will save you both money and queuing for tickets. For ¥120 you get either complimentary access or discounted admission (typically 50%) to 112 tourist attractions, including some 61 museums, plus temples and tourist sights in and around Běijīng. Attractions covered include the Great Wall at Bādàlǐng, Front Gate, the Drum Tower, the Bell Tower, the Confucius Temple, the Botanic Gardens, the Railway Museum, Dōngyuè Temple, White Cloud Temple and Zhìhuà Temple. Not all the sights are worth visiting, but you only have to visit a small selection to make it worth the money. The pass comes in the form of a booklet (Chinese with minimal English), valid from 1 January to 31 December in any one year. The pass, which is harder to obtain as the year goes on, can be picked up from participating museums and most post offices; see its website for locations.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
> oDrum TowerHISTORIC SITE
(鼓楼, Gǔlóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gulou Dongdajie, 鼓楼东大街 ¥20, both towers through ticket ¥30; h9am-5pm, last entry 4.40pm; bLine 8 to Shichahai, exit A2)
Along with the older-looking Bell Tower, which stands behind it, the magnificent red-painted Drum Tower used to be the city’s official timekeeper, with drums and bells beaten and rung to mark the times of the day. Originally built in 1272, the Drum Tower was once the heart of the Mongol capital of Dàdū, as Běijīng was then known. It was destroyed in a fire before a replacement was built, slightly to the east of the original location, in 1420. The current structure is a Qing dynasty version of that 1420 tower.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
1Top Sights
1Bell TowerA4
2Drum TowerA4
3Lama TempleF3
1Sights
4Arrow FactoryE3
5Běijīng Cultural & Art CentreE2
6Confucius Temple & Imperial CollegeE3
7Fire God TempleD3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
8Culture YardF4
9NatookeE2
10The HutongF5
Lonely Planet China Page 9
