4Sleeping
11Běijīng Drum Tower International Youth HostelA3
12Confucius International Youth HostelE2
13Courtyard 7C5
14Dragon King HostelF6
15Nostalgia HotelE3
16OrchidB4
17Peking Youth HostelC5
18Yo-Yo HotelD3
5Eating
194cornersA4
20Bǎihé Vegetarian RestaurantG4
21Dàlǐ CourtyardC4
22GeorgB6
23Kǎo Ròu JìA5
24Punk Rock NoodlesD4
25Stuff'dD2
ToastB4
26Zhāng MāmaD5
6Drinking & Nightlife
27Cafe ConfuciusD3
28Capital SpiritsG4
29DistilleryF6
30Great Leap BrewingB5
31Panda BrewF4
32Pass By BarC6
3Entertainment
33East Shore Jazz CaféA5
34Hot Cat ClubD3
35School BarE2
7Shopping
36GiantE4
37Nanluogu XiangC6
38Plastered 8C5
39Pottery WorkshopD2
40Three Stone Kite ShopA6
41Yandai XiejieA5
oLama TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(雍和宫, Yōnghé Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.yonghegong.cn; 12 Yonghegong Dajie, 北新桥雍和宫大街12号 ¥25, English audio guide ¥50; h9am-4.30pm; bLines 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit C)
This exceptional temple is a glittering attraction in Běijīng’s Buddhist firmament. If you only have time for one temple (the Temple of Heaven isn’t really a temple) make it this one, where riveting roofs, fabulous frescoes, magnificent decorative arches, tapestries, eye-popping carpentry, Tibetan prayer wheels, tantric statues and a superb pair of Chinese lions mingle with dense clouds of incense.
The most renowned Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet, the Lama Temple was converted to a lamasery in 1744 after serving as the former residence of Emperor Yong Zheng. While the temple is an active place of worship, and you may occasionally see pilgrims prostrating themselves in submission at full length within its halls, the temple is mostly visited by tourists these days.
Resplendent within the Hall of the Wheel of the Law (Fǎlún Diàn), the fourth hall you reach from the entrance, is a substantial bronze statue of a benign and smiling Tsong Khapa (1357–1419), founder of the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect, robed in yellow and illuminated by a skylight.
The fifth hall, the Wànfú Pavilion (Wànfú Gé), houses a magnificent 18m-high statue of the Maitreya Buddha in his Tibetan form, clothed in yellow satin and reputedly sculpted from a single block of sandalwood. Each of the Bodhisattva’s toes is the size of a pillow. Behind the statue is the Vault of Avalokiteshvara, from where a diminutive and blue-faced statue of Guanyin peeks out. The Wànfú Pavilion is linked by an overhead walkway to the Yánsuí Pavilion (Yánsuí Gé), which encloses a huge lotus flower that revolves to reveal an effigy of the Longevity Buddha.
Don’t miss the collection of bronze Tibetan Buddhist statues within the Jiètái Lóu, a small side hall. Most effigies date from the Qing dynasty, from languorous renditions of Green Tara and White Tara to exotic, tantric pieces (such as Samvara) and figurines of the fierce-looking Mahakala. Also peruse the collection of Tibetan Buddhist ornaments within the Bānchán Lóu, another side hall, where an array of dorje (Tibetan sceptres), mandalas and tantric figures are displayed along with an impressive selection of ceremonial robes in silk and satin.
The street outside the temple entrance heaves with shops piled high with statues of Buddha, talismans, Buddhist charms, incense and keepsakes, picked over by a constant stream of pilgrims.
oBell TowerHISTORIC SITE
(钟楼, Zhōnglóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gulou Dongdajie, 鼓楼东大街 ¥20, both towers through ticket ¥30; h9am-5pm, last tickets 4.40pm; bLine 8 to Shichahai, exit A2)
The modest, grey-stone structure of the Bell Tower is arguably more charming than its resplendent other half, the Drum Tower, after which this area of Běijīng is named. It also has the added advantage of being able to view its sister tower from a balcony.
Confucius Temple & Imperial CollegeCONFUCIAN TEMPLE
(孔庙、国子监, Kǒng Miào & Guózǐjiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 13 Guozijian Jie, 国子监街13号 ¥30, audio guide ¥30; h8.30am-6pm May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr, last entry 1hr before closing; bLines 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit C)
An incense stick’s toss away from the Lama Temple, China’s second-largest Confucian temple has had a refit in recent years, but the almost otherworldly sense of detachment is seemingly impossible to shift. A mood of impassiveness reigns and the lack of worship reinforces a sensation that time has stood still. However, in its tranquillity and reserve, the temple can be a pleasant sanctuary from Běijīng’s often congested streets – a haven of peace and quiet.
Antediluvian bìxì (mythical tortoiselike dragons) glare from repainted pavilions while lumpy and ossified ancient cypresses claw stiffly at the Běijīng air. There's the Qianlong Stone Scriptures, a stone 'forest' of 190 stelae recording the 13 Confucian classics in 630,000 Chinese characters at the temple rear. Also inscribed on stelae are the names of successful candidates of the highest level of the official Confucian examination system.
Next to the Confucius Temple, but within the same grounds, stands the Imperial College, where the emperor expounded the Confucian classics to an audience of thousands of kneeling students, professors and court officials – an annual rite. Built by the grandson of Kublai Khan in 1306, the former college was the supreme academy during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. On the site is a marvellous, glazed, three-gate, single-eaved decorative archway called a liúli páifāng (glazed archway). The Biyong Hall (辟雍大殿, Pìyōng Dàdiàn) beyond is a twin-roofed structure with yellow tiles surrounded by a moat and topped with a splendid gold knob. Its stupendous interior houses a vermillion and gold lectern. The side pavilions house several interesting museums on Confucianism and the academy itself.
Some of Běijīng’s last remaining páilou (decorated archways) bravely survive in the tree-lined street outside (Guozijian Jie) and the entire area of hútòng here is now dotted with small cafes, cute restaurants and boutique shops, making it an ideal place to browse in low gear. At the western end of Guozijian Jie stands a diminutive Fire God Temple (火神庙; Huǒshén Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Guozijian Jie; 国子监街 bLines 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit C), built in 1802 and now occupied by Běijīng residents.
Běijīng Cultural & Art CentreGALLERY
(北京文化艺术中心, Běijīng Wénhuà Yìshù Zhōngxīn, BCAC MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8408 4977; www.bcac.org.cn; 3 Wudaoying Hutong, 五道营胡同3号 ¥10; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun; bLines 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit D)
In a beautiful hútòng courtyard building along one of Beijing's coolest streets, this not-for-profit art gallery has three slick exhibition spaces that cover anything from contemporary and traditional arts to design, fashion and architecture. It generally shows a mix of local and international artists.
Arrow FactoryGALLERY
(箭厂空间, Jiànchǎng Kōngjiān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.arrowfactory.org.cn; 38 Jianchang Hutong, off Guozijian Jie, 国子监街，箭厂胡同38号 h24hr; bLines 2, 5 to Yonghegong Lama Temple or Line 2 to Andingmen)
This tiny, 15-sq-metre, storefront gallery occupies a former vegetable shop and is now an independently run art space for avant-garde installations and modern-art projects designed to be viewed from the street, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. You can't enter the room, but its all-glass front means you can peer in whenever you walk past.
TOP TIPS
ALearn as much Chinese (Mandarin) as you can before you come.
ARent a bike. Běijīng is as flat as a mah-jong table and a great city to explore on two wheels.
AHave the name and address of wherever you're going each day written down in Chinese characters before you go out. And always
bring your hotel business card with you, so you can find your way home.
ATry as wide a variety of Chinese food as you can. Běijīng has every culinary base covered, from Peking duck to spicy Sìchuānese, so grab some chopsticks and tuck in. Oh, and don't listen to anyone who tells you to avoid the street food – terrible advice.
BěIJīNG IN...
TWO DAYS
Stroll around the incense smoke–filled courtyards of the Lama Temple before hopping over the road to the even more laid-back Confucius Temple. Grab a coffee and lunch at Cafe Confucius before walking through the hútòng (narrow alleyways) to the ancient Drum & Bell Towers and finishing off the day with a meal in Dàlǐ Courtyard.
Get up early to enjoy the Temple of Heaven Park at its magical, early-morning best: filled with opera-singing locals rather than photo-snapping tourists. Make it juicy lamb kebabs for lunch at Yīzhēn Yuán before walking via Tiān’ānmén Sq to the Forbidden City. Finish the day by tucking into Běijīng’s signature dish – roast duck – at one of the city's most celebrated restaurants – Lìqún Roast Duck Restaurant.
BĚIJĪNG | ZHAO JIAN KANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
FOUR DAYS
Follow the itinerary above, but save plenty of energy for the trip of a lifetime on day three: your journey to the Great Wall. There are plenty of options, from a quick half-day jaunt at touristy Bādálǐng to a strenuous hike along wild, unrestored sections such as Gǔběikǒu or Jiànkòu. Mùtiányù makes a good option for families. Pack a picnic and don’t expect to get back to the city until nightfall.
Hop on the subway on day four to visit the Summer Palace. You could spend the day here or make side trips to the Botanic Gardens, Old Summer Palace or Fragrant Hills Park, all of which are close. Return for an early evening meal so that you have time to catch a show – Peking opera or acrobatics – on your final evening.
2City Walk
Historic Hútòng Around Nanluogu Xiang
Start Nanluoguxiang subway station
End Drum & Bell Towers
Length 2km; one hour
Běijīng’s hútòng are the heart and soul of the city.
Exit Nanluoguxiang subway station and turn right into Chaodou Hutong (炒豆胡同). Starting at No 77, the next few courtyards once made up the 1former mansion of Seng Gelinqin, a Qing dynasty army general. Note the enormous bǎogǔshí (drum stones) at the entranceway to No 77, followed by more impressive gateways at Nos 75, 69, 67 and 63. After No 53, turn left up an unmarked winding alleyway then left onto Banchang Hutong (板厂胡同).
At No 19, turn right through an unusual 2hallway gate, a connecting passageway leading to Dongmianhua Hutong (东棉花胡同). Turn right here, then left down an unnamed alley, which is signposted to Pénghāo Theatre.
Turn left onto Beibingmasi Hutong (北兵马司胡同) and cross Nanluogu Xiang into historic 3Mao’er Hutong (帽儿胡同). Admire the entranceways, or if the gates are open, step into the charming courtyards at Nos 5 and 11. Further on, No 37 was the 4former home of Wan Rong, who would later marry China’s last emperor, Puyi.
Next, turn right down Doujiao Hutong (豆角胡同) and wind your way (past Great Leap Brewing) to Fangzhuanchang Hutong (方砖厂胡同) then Nanxiawazi Hutong (南下洼子胡同), with its small 5fruit & veg street market, and continue north to Gulou Dongdajie (鼓楼东大街). Turn left here and then, just before you reach the imperious red-painted 6Drum Tower, turn right into Caochang Hutong (草厂胡同). Continue down the lane, then take the second left: you’ll see the magnificent grey-brick 7Bell Tower in front of you. Follow this wonderfully winding alley to the back of the Bell Tower, then walk around the tower to the recently redeveloped 8Drum & Bell Square.
Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South
oTemple of Heaven ParkPARK
(天坛公园, Tiāntán Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6702 9917; Tiantan Donglu, 天坛东路 park/through ticket Apr-Oct ¥15/35, Nov-Mar ¥10/30, audio guide ¥40 (deposit ¥50); hpark 6.30am-10pm, sights 8am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, park 6.30am-8pm, sights 8am-5pm Nov-Mar; bLine 5 to Tiantandongmen, exit A)
A tranquil oasis of peace and methodical Confucian design in one of China’s busiest urban landscapes, the 267-hectare Temple of Heaven Park is absolutely unique. It originally served as a vast stage for solemn rites performed by the emperor of the time (known as the Son of Heaven), who prayed here for good harvests and sought divine clearance and atonement. Strictly speaking, it's an altar rather than a temple – so don’t expect burning incense or worshippers.
Surrounded by a long wall and with a gate at each compass point, the arrangement is typical of Chinese parks, with the imperfections, bumps and wild irregularities of nature largely deleted and the harmonising hand of man accentuated in obsessively straight lines and regular arrangements. This effect is magnified by Confucian objectives, where the human intellect is imposed on the natural world, fashioning order and symmetry. The resulting balance and harmony have an almost haunting – but slightly claustrophobic – beauty. Police whir about in electric buggies as visitors stroll among old buildings, groves of ancient trees and birdsong. Around 4000 ancient, knotted cypresses (some 800 years old, their branches propped up on poles) poke towards the Běijīng skies within the grounds.
Seen from above, the temple halls are round and the bases square, in accordance with the notion ‘Tiānyuán Dìfāng’ (天圆地方) – ‘Heaven is round, Earth is square’. Also observe that the northern rim of the park is semicircular, while its southern end is square. The traditional approach to the temple was from the south, via Zhāohēng Gate (昭亨门; Zhāohēng Mén); the north gate is an architectural afterthought. The highlight of the park, and an icon of Běijīng in its own right, is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (祈年殿; Qínián Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Temple of Heaven; ¥20; h8am-5pm), an astonishing structure with a triple-eaved purplish-blue umbrella roof mounted on a three-tiered marble terrace. The wooden pillars (made from Oregon fir) support the ceiling without nails or cement – for a building 38m high and 30m in diameter, that’s quite an accomplishment. Embedded in the ceiling is a carved dragon, a symbol of the emperor. Built in 1420, the hall was reduced to carbon after being zapped by a lightning bolt during the reign of Guangxu in 1889; a faithful reproduction based on Ming architectural methods was erected the following year.
Continuing south along an elevated imperial pathway, you soon reach the octagonal Imperial Vault of Heaven (皇穹宇; Huáng Qióng Yǔ MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which was erected in 1530 and rebuilt in 1752, but with its shape echoing the lines of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The hall contained tablets of the emperor’s ancestors, employed during winter solstice ceremonies.
Wrapped around the Imperial Vault of Heaven is Echo Wall (回音壁; Huíyīn Bì MAP GOOGLE MAP ). A whisper can travel clearly from one end to your friend’s ear at the other – unless a cacophonous tour group joins in (get here early for this one).
Immediately south of Echo Wall, the 5m-high Round Altar (圜丘; Yuán Qiū MAP GOOGLE MAP ) was constructed at the same time as the Imperial Vault of Heaven and rebuilt in 1740. Consisting of white marble arrayed in three tiers, its geometry revolves around the imperial number nine. Odd numbers possess heavenly significance, with nine the largest single-digit odd number. Symbolising heaven, the top tier is a huge mosaic of nine rings, each composed of multiples of nine stones, so that the ninth ring equals 81 stones. The stairs and balustrades are similarly presented in multiples of nine. Sounds generated from the centre of the upper terrace undergo amplification from the marble balustrades (the acoustics can get noisy when crowds join in).
Off to the eastern side of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, and with a green-tiled two-tier roof, the Animal Killing Pavilion (宰牲亭, Zǎishēng Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ) was the venue for the slaughter of sacrificial oxen, sheep, deer and other animals. Today it stands locked and passive but can be admired from the outside. Stretching out from here runs a Long Corridor (长廊; Cháng Láng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where locals sit
and deal cards, listen to the radio, play keyboards, practise Peking opera, try dance moves and play jiànzi, a game similar to hacky-sack but played with a weighted shuttlecock. Just north of here is a large and very popular exercise park.
In the west of the park, sacrificial music was rehearsed at the Divine Music Administration (神乐署; Shényuè Shǔ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10), while feral cats inhabit the dry moat of the green-tiled Fasting Palace (斋宫; Zhāi Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ).
The East Gate (天坛东门; Tiāntán Dóngmén GOOGLE MAP ; Tiantan Donglu; 天坛东路 bTiantandongmen) is the most popular place to enter the park but queues for tickets are shorter at the West Gate (天坛西门; Tiāntán Xīmén GOOGLE MAP ; Tianqiao Nandajie; 天桥南大街 ).
Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South
1Top Sights
1Temple of Heaven ParkA3
1Sights
2Animal Killing PavilionB3
3Běijīng Railway MuseumA1
4Divine Music AdministrationB3
5Echo WallB3
6Fasting PalaceA3
7Hall of Prayer for Good HarvestsB3
8Imperial Vault of HeavenB3
9Long CorridorB3
10Qianmen DajieA1
11Round AltarB4
5Eating
12Lìqún Roast Duck RestaurantB1
13Lost HeavenA1
14Yīzhēn YuánC1
3Entertainment
15Red TheatreD3
Běijīng Railway MuseumMUSEUM
(北京铁路博物馆, Běijīng Tiělù Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6705 1638; 2a Qianmen Dongdajie, 前门东大街2a号 ¥20; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bQianmen)
Lonely Planet China Page 10
