Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  ToastMIDDLE EASTERN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 5799 0806, 010 8404 4818; www.theorchidbeijing.com; 65 Baochao Hutong, Dulou Dongdajie, 鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同65号 mains from ¥88; h10am-2.30pm & 6-10pm Wed-Mon; bLines 2, 8 to Guloudajie, exit F or Line 8 to Shichahai, exit A2)

  Located at the boutique Orchid hotel is this stylish restaurant with a quality menu of Middle Eastern/North African/Indian–influenced cuisine. Dishes are shared plates and range from homemade bread and dips to poached egg kofte, roasted lamb ribs with hummus, and spicy clams. It's popular also for its quality breakfast and brunch menus, and rooftop cocktails when the sun's out.

  Stuff'dINTERNATIONAL$$

  (塞, Sāi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6407 6308; www.stuff-d.com; 9 Jianchang Hutong, off Guozijian Jie, 国子监街，箭厂胡同9号 sausages from ¥30, pies ¥68, pizzas ¥68; h11.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; bLine 2 to Andingmen or Lines 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit D)

  Handmade sausages and home-brewed beer (¥40). What more could you want? Set up by Arrow Factory brewery (which has a taproom out the back), this rustic space has a warm, cosy feel; almost like an English pub, only housed within a restored Chinese píngfáng (bungalow). The menu is all about the sausages and ale, but there are also pies and pizza.

  oGeorgINTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8408 5300; www.thegeorg.com/en; 45 Dongbuyaqiao Hutong, 东不压桥胡同45号 cafe mains ¥58-78, tasting plates from ¥130, set menu ¥450; hrestaurant 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun, cafe from 10.30am daily; aW; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit E, or Line 8 to Shichahai, exit C)

  In a city glaringly short on international fine dining, the Georg delivers with its gastronomic menu of fusion cuisine. It's an enterprise by Copenhagen designer Georg Jensen, creating a refined, intimate space with Danish design and heritage silverware. Tasting plates with a Scandinavian twist are creative and original.

  Descriptors on the menu are left vague for the diner to dissect tastes of its weekly rotating dishes. Given the work put into the menu, it is very good value for less than ¥450 a head. Its Living Room cafe is open during the day with a more casual menu of brisket sandwiches, home-cured duck prosciutto, cheesecake and high tea. The location along a picturesque river is a nice area to stroll.

  There's a Georg Jensen showroom on the 2nd floor with high-end silverware and jewellery. The Beijing Centre for the Arts (www.beijingcenterforthearts.com) gallery is next door.

  Dàlǐ CourtyardYUNNAN$$$

  (大理, Dàlǐ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8404 1430; 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie, 鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 set menu ¥150; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; bLine 2 to Andingmen, exit D, or Line 5 to Beixinqiao, exit A)

  The charming hútòng setting in a restored courtyard makes this one of Běijīng’s more pleasant places to eat, especially in summer (in winter they cover the courtyard with an unattractive temporary roof). It specialises in the subtle flavours of Yúnnán cuisine. There’s no menu. Instead, you pay ¥150 (drinks are extra), and enjoy whatever inspires the chef that day. He rarely disappoints.

  From Gulou Dongdajie, turn north onto Xiaojingchang Hutong and look for the red lanterns down the first alley on the left.

  Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South

  Yīzhēn YuánCHINESE ISLAMIC$

  (伊珍源饭庄 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6712 9856; 80 Xihuashi Dajie, 西花市大街80号 mains from ¥22; h10.30am-9pm; bChongwenmen)

  A good spot for a lunch break in the area, this Muslim eatery offers juicy yángròu chuàn (羊肉串; lamb skewers, ¥5) and decent naan bread, as well as noodle and vegie dishes. No English spoken, but it does have a picture menu.

  oLost HeavenYUNNAN$$

  (花马天堂, Huāmǎ Tiāntáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8516 2698; www.lostheaven.com.cn; 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, 前门东大街23号 dishes ¥50-130; h11am-2pm & 5.30-10.30pm; bLine 2 to Qianmen, exit A)

  The Běijīng branch of the famed Shànghǎi restaurant, Lost Heaven specialises in the folk cuisine of Yúnnán province. While the spices have been toned down, the flavours remain subtle and light and are guaranteed to transport you to China’s balmy southwest. The location in the elegant former Legation Quarter is an added bonus, and there's an outside roof terrace for the summer.

  oCapital MMEDITERRANEAN$$$

  (M餐厅, M Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6702 2727; www.m-restaurantgroup.com/capitalm; 3rd fl, 2 Qianmen Dajie, 前门步行街2号 mains from ¥208; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm; W; bQianmen)

  The terrace of this swish but relaxed restaurant, with its unfussy menu of Mediterranean favourites, offers fine views over Qiánmén Gate and Tiān’ānmén Sq. The weekday lunch menu is decent value (¥188). It’s down the first turning on the left at the beginning of Qianmen Dajie; look for the ‘M’ hanging off the side of the building. Book ahead.

  oLìqún Roast Duck RestaurantPEKING DUCK$$$

  (利群烤鸭店, Lìqún Kǎoyādiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6702 5681, 010 6705 5578; 11 Beixiangfeng Hutong, 前门东大街正义路南口北翔凤胡同11号 roast duck for 2/3 people ¥240/285; h11am-10pm; bQianmen)

  As you walk in to this compact courtyard restaurant, you're greeted by the fine sight of rows of ducks on hooks glowing in the ovens. The delectable duck on offer is in such high demand that it’s essential to call ahead to reserve both a bird and a table (otherwise, turn up off-peak and be prepared to wait an hour).

  Inside, it's a little tatty (no prizes for the toilets) and service can be chaotic, but the food more than makes up for that. Buried away in a maze of crumbling hútòng in east Qiánmén that have somehow survived demolition, look for the red-neon duck sign that points the way to the restaurant.

  Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng

  oIn & OutYUNNAN$

  (一坐一忘, Yī Zuò Yī Wàng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8454 0086; 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, 三里屯北小街1号 mains ¥28-60; h11am-10pm; bLine 2 to Agricultural Exhibition Centre)

  This fashionable, but laid-back and friendly restaurant specialises in the many cuisines of the ethnic minority groups in southwestern Yúnnán province. The flavours are authentic and, given its popularity, the prices are surprisingly reasonable, unless you go for the mushroom dishes (Yúnnán mushrooms are prized across Asia). Try the classic Over the Bridge Noodles (¥45), the excellent Dongba beef ribs (¥56) or golden roast tilapia glistening with chilli and lemongrass (¥58).

  MorningNOODLES$

  (过早, Guò Zǎo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Chunxiu Lu, 春秀路10号 mains from ¥20; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm; bLine 2 to Dongzhimen, exit C, or Dongsi Shitiao, exit B)

  A slick, modern space with blonde wood and designer furniture seems incongruous for a restaurant that specialises in cheap, old-school Húběi noodles, and it serves to make Morning all the cooler. Come for the traditional dry noodles, topped with pork mince and thick sesame paste that you'll need to stir through vigorously before you slurp it down.

  oHome Plate BBQBARBECUE$$

  (本垒美式烤肉, Běnlěi Měishì Kǎoròu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %400 096 7670; www.homeplatebbq.com; Lot 10, Courtyard 4, off Gongrentiyuchang Beilu, 三里屯机电院10号 burgers from ¥45; h11am-1am; bLine 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit A or D)

  Serving up some of the finest southern American barbecue in town is this Texas-owned restaurant-bar that's all about slow-cooked meats, burgers and craft beer. Its charcoal-wood smoker sits proudly on display, loaded with fruit wood to cook bone-lickin' ribs, plates of barbecued pulled pork, smoky chicken and beef brisket cooked for 12 hours.

  oJīngzūn Peking DuckPEKING DUCK$$

  (京尊烤鸭, Jīngzūn Kǎoyā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6417 4075; 6 Chunxiu Lu, 春秀路6号 mains ¥26-98; h11am-10pm; bLine 2 to Dongsi Shitiao, exit B)

  Very popular place to sample Běijīng’s signature dish. Not only is the Peking duck here extremely good value at ¥138/79 for a whole/half bird, but you can also sit outside on its atmospheric wooden-decked terrace decorated with red lanterns. Otherwise, head upstairs to its booth seating overlooking
the leafy street. It has its own draft beer too.

  BookwormCAFE$$

  (书虫, Shūchóng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6586 9507; www.beijingbookworm.com; Bldg 4, Nansanlitun Lu, 南三里屯路4号楼 mains from ¥60; h9am-midnight; W; bLine 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit A or D)

  A combination of a bar, cafe, restaurant, library and bookshop, the Bookworm is a Běijīng institution and one of the epicentres of the capital's cultural life. Much more than just an upmarket cafe, there are 16,000-plus books here you can browse while sipping your coffee. For freelancers, it's one of the city's best workspaces. The food is reasonably priced, if uninspired, but there's a decent wine list.

  Duck de ChinePEKING DUCK$$$

  (全鸭季, Quányājì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6521 2221; Courtyard 4, 1949 Hidden City, off Gongrentiyuchang Beilu, 工体北路4号 mains ¥78-488; h11am-2pm & 5.30-10pm; bLine 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit A or D)

  Housed in a reconstructed industrial-style courtyard complex known as 1949, this very slick and stylish operation incorporates both Chinese and French duck-roasting methods to produce some stand-out duck dishes, including a leaner version of the classic Peking roast duck (¥268); no half serving available. The mix of expats and moneyed locals who flock here argue it's the best bird in town.

  Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North

  o4cornersINTERNATIONAL$

  (四角餐厅, Sìjiǎo Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6401 7797; http://these4corners.com; 27 Dashibei Hutong, 大石碑胡同27号 dishes from ¥40; h11am-late Tue-Sun; bLine 8 to Shichahai, exit A2)

  Given this hútòng bar-restaurant is run by a Canadian-Vietnamese expat, it makes total sense it's known for its phở and poutine. Everything is made from scratch, including the curds for its poutine and baked baguettes for the bánh mì, and everything is gluten-free. Its courtyard bar is also one of the area's best spots for a drink, with Běijīng craft beers on tap and quality cocktails.

  Check its website for nightly events including live music, Tuesday quiz, Wednesday 'story-telling' nights and Thursday open mic.

  Kǎo Ròu JìCHINESE ISLAMIC$$

  (烤肉季 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Qianhai Dongyan, 前海东沿银锭桥 mains ¥40-80; h1st fl 11am-11pm, 2nd fl 11am-2pm & 5-9pm; bLine 8 to Shichahai, exit A2)

  This restaurant serves roast duck (including half portions for ¥92), and a range of China-wide dishes, but it's the mutton that everyone comes for – and the lake views from the 2nd floor.

  This place has been around for years (it featured in our very first edition of Lonely Planet China, in 1984), and its choice location, overlooking Qiánhǎi Lake, makes it as popular as ever. It's pricier than it should be, but the atmosphere is fun, and the English menu with photos makes ordering easy. Bag a table by the window on the 2nd floor, and order the roast mutton (¥108), a hot plate from heaven. If you're stuck for cash, fill up on freshly roasted sesame-seed buns (¥2 each), called 'sesame cakes' on the menu.

  Dashilar & Xīchéng South

  Liú Family NoodlesNOODLES$

  (刘家人刀削面, Liú Jiārén Dāoxiāomiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Tieshuxie Jie, 铁树斜街6号 noodles from ¥12; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm; bLine 7 to Hufangqiao or Line 2 to Qianmen, exit B or C)

  A rarity in this area: a restaurant that welcomes foreigners without trying to overcharge them. On the contrary, the prices couldn't be much lower, while the friendly owner is keen to practise her (limited) English. Choose from a selection of tasty noodle and cold dishes. To find it, look for the black sign with 'Best Noodles in China' written in English.

  Turpan RestaurantXINJIANG$$

  (吐鲁番餐厅, Tǔlǔfān Cāntīng GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8316 4691; 6 Niu Jie, 牛街6号 kebabs from ¥12, dishes from ¥35; h5am-9am, 10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-9pm; bLines 4, 7 to Caishikou, exit D)

  This huge place attracts the local Huí hordes, who flock here for the big, juicy and succulent lamb kebabs (nothing like the tiny skewers sold on the streets). Then there's the array of authentic Uighur dishes from far-off Xīnjiāng, such as salted beef rolls with sweet yam (¥46), as well as a selection of Halal choices.

  Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn

  Khan BabaPAKISTANI$$

  (汗吧吧餐厅, Hàn Bābā Cāntīng GOOGLE MAP ; %010 5692 7068; www.khanbababeijing.com; 2/f Jixin Plaza, Zhanchunyuanxi Lu, 展春园西路蓟鑫大厦北侧2层 mains ¥42-58; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm; bWudaokou)

  Fine and friendly Pakistani-run restaurant with a loyal and ever-increasing following of both foreigners and locals. The large menu ranges across India too, with a good choice of both meat and vegie curries. The weekday lunchtime buffet (¥55) is an excellent deal, allowing you to sample any number of dishes. It has great kebabs too.

  XiǎodiàolítāngBEIJING$$

  (小吊梨汤 GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6264 8616; 66 Baofusi, 保福寺66号 dishes from ¥22; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm; bZhichunli)

  This place specialises in Guānfǔ Cài, the cuisine associated with Qing dynasty mandarins. It's basically a more refined take on traditional Běijīng dishes. Unsurprisingly, given the restaurant's name, pear soup – lítāng – accompanies each meal, and a lot of the dishes on the picture menu incorporate pears, such as shrimp and fried pears (¥38). It's popular: expect to queue at lunchtime.

  Everything here is MSG-free. The restaurant is tucked away to the side of the Zhongguancun Sports & Culture Centre.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  It's amazing to contemplate, as you sip a martini in the latest hot spot or dance to a big-name European DJ, but until 30 years ago there weren't any bars or nightclubs, outside a few hotels, in Běijīng at all. Now, as more and more locals take to partying after dark, the capital is home to an increasing number of sophisticated nightspots.

  Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central

  oOasis CafeCAFE

  (绿洲咖啡, Lǜzhōu Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Jingshan Qianjie, 景山前街2号 coffee from ¥15; h9am-7pm; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit A or Line 5, 6 to Dongsi, exit E)

  Oasis' award-winning owner/barista/coffee roaster, Duan, really knows his stuff. Not only does he nail the V60 drip-coffee pour overs, but he knocks out one of the best flat whites in the city. Its attached restaurant is also a great place for a feed, specialising in cheap traditional Běijīng dishes, including hand-pulled noodles and meat-filled shāobǐng (烧饼, sesame-seed rolls; ¥5).

  Its location just up from the Forbidden City makes it the ideal spot to take a break after a long day of sightseeing.

  oSlow Boat Brewery TaproomBAR

  (悠航鲜啤, Yōuháng Xiānpí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.slowboatbrewery.com; 56-2 Dongsi Batiao, 东四八条56－2号 draft beer ¥25-55; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 2pm-2am Sat, 11.30am-10pm Sun; W; bLine 5 to Zhangzizhonglu, exit C)

  One of the original breweries to get Běijīng's craft-beer scene kicking, Slow Boat continues to conjure up some of the city's finest. Well hidden away down a residential side street, it's a cool little bar in a converted hútòng house, with a selection of around 15 Slow Boat beers on tap. Get the critically acclaimed Fry Burger stuffed with fries.

  Signature beers include the Captain's Pale Ale and Monkey's Fist IPA, but there's a long list of core and seasonal North American–style beers to make your way through. Check the website for specials. Its flagship brewpub opened in Sānlǐtún ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.slowboatbrewery.com; 6 Sanlitun Nanlu; bLine 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit A or D) in 2016.

  Biking CafeCAFE

  (双行咖啡, Shuāngxíng Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6455 3909; www.bikingcafe.com; 81 Beiheyan Dajie, 北河沿大街81号 coffee from ¥25; h8am-9pm; W; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit B or Line 5 to Zhangzizhonglu, exit D)

  Sharing space with Bike Beijing is this mellow cafe that does speciality hand-drip coffees, toasted sandwiches and breakfasts specifically designed for cyclists. There are Belgian beers waiting in the fridge upon your return. With its unhurried pace and abundance of power points, it's also well suited as a work space.

  Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North

  oCapital SpiritsCOCKT
AIL BAR

  (首都酒坊, Shǒudū Jiǔfāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.capitalspiritsbj.com; 3 Daju Hutong, 大菊胡同3号 cocktails from ¥40; h8pm-12.30am Tue-Sun; W; bLine 5 to Beixinqiao, exit C)

  Much maligned by non-Chinese drinkers, báijiǔ (白酒; literally ‘white alcohol’, a face-numbing spirit) is often compared to consuming paint stripper. However, that's until you sample some of the top-shelf stuff, and that's where Capital Spirits step in with an entire speakeasy bar dedicated to quality báijiǔs. On a mission to dispel its poor reputation, here pro bartenders mix up báijiǔ cocktails along with tasting flights of four varietals (¥40) from across China.

  Once you've figured out your tastes – which vary markedly according to distillery processes – there's a whole choice of flights to follow. The báijiǔ cocktails are definitely worth trying, from the Báijiǔ Sour to the Ma-La Rita margarita infused with Sìchuān peppercorns. If you're up for shots, there's a range of infused báijiǔ, from jalapeno to bottled snakes.

  It's down a residential noncommerical hútòng within a nondescript building without signage and you can only enter from the back door; it's 20m from Dongzhimen Nanxiaojie. The tasting gift packs (¥260) make good souvenirs. Cash only.

  oDistilleryCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.capitalspiritsbj.com/#the-distillery; 23 Xinsi Hutong, 辛寺胡同23号 cocktails ¥40-60; h8pm-12.30am Mon-Sat; W; bLine 5 to Zhangzizhonglu, exit B)