Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Home InnHOTEL$$

  (如家快捷酒店, Rújiā Kuàijié Jiǔdiàn %0453 6911 1188; 651 Guanghua Jie, 光花街651号 r ¥129-179; naiW)

  Probably the best-value rooms around the train station are in this well-managed chain just to the right as you exit. Top floors are nonsmoking and very quiet despite the location.

  oSunny Date International HotelHOTEL$$$

  (禧禄达国际酒店, Xǐlùdá Guójì Jiǔdiàn %0453 687 8888; 8 Dongyitiao Lu, 东一条路8号 d & tw ¥298-498; aW)

  It's hard not to be impressed (or blinded) by the sunny opulence of the chandelier-lined lobby. Some rooms come equipped with a mah-jong table, but all rooms are top-notch with comfy beds, wi-fi and clean bathrooms. The gigantic attached bathhouse is equally opulent. Discounts bring rooms down to as low as ¥138…bargain!

  The hotel is located 200m to the left opposite the road as you exit the train station. It opens up to the busy Dongyitiao Lu pedestrian street.

  5Eating

  There are plenty of cheap restaurants in the alleys off Qixing Jie, which intersects with Taiping Jie 500m up from the train station. Dongyitiao Lu (off Qixing Jie) is a lively pedestrian-only street with a wide range of BBQ, noodle and snack venues open in the evening.

  Shuānglóng Jiǎozi WángDUMPLINGS$

  (双龙饺子王 cnr Qixing Jie & Taiping Jie; dumplings ¥13-38; h9am-9pm)

  There’s a wide selection of jiǎozi (stuffed dumplings) here, as well as the usual Dōngběi classics. As you turn left off Taiping Jie, the restaurant is the big glass building with the red signboard on the right. It has an English sign out front and a partial picture menu inside to help you order.

  8Information

  There’s a Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng) with a 24-hour ATM three blocks south of the train station along Taiping Jie.

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  Long-distance buses sometimes drop you off near the train station and depart from a long-distance station (客车站; kè chēzhàn) a few kilometres away on Xi Ping'an Jie. A taxi to the station costs ¥7.

  ADōngjīng Chéng ¥18, 1¼ hours, half-hourly

  AHarbin ¥100, 4½ hours, hourly (5.30am to 6pm)

  AYánjí ¥72, five hours, 6.30am, 11.30am and 2pm

  Train

  Mǔdānjiāng has rail connections:

  AHarbin Hard seat/sleeper ¥52/107, 4½ to 6½ hours, frequent services

  ASuífēnhé Seat ¥19 to ¥22, one to two hours, 12 daily

  AYánjí Hard seat/sleeper ¥22/61, 6½ hours, one daily (4.24pm)

  Jìngpò Lake 镜泊湖

  Formed on the bend of the Mǔdān River 5000 years ago by the falling lava of five volcanic explosions, Jìngpò Lake (镜泊湖, Jìngpò Hú, Mirror Lake), 110km south of Mǔdānjiāng, gets its name from the unusually clear reflections of the surrounding lush green forest in its pristine blue water.

  Hugely popular in summer with Chinese day trippers who come to paddle or picnic by the lakeside, Jìngpò Lake (2-day admission ¥80) is a pleasant spot if you hike along the lake to escape the crowds. Shuttle buses (¥12 per trip) run to various sights, and ferries (¥100, 1½ hours) make leisurely tours of the lake.

  1Sights

  Diàoshuǐlóu WaterfallWATERFALL

  (吊水楼瀑布, Diàoshuǐlóu Pùbù )

  This waterfall boasts a 12m drop and 300m span. During the rainy season (June to September), when Diàoshuǐlóu is in full throttle, it’s a spectacular raging beauty, but during spring and autumn it’s little more than a drizzle.

  You can walk to the waterfall from the north-gate entrance in about five minutes. Just stay on the main road and follow the English signs.

  Underground ForestFOREST

  (地下森林, Dìxià Sēnlín admission ¥55, internal shuttle bus ¥30)

  Despite its name, the Underground Forest isn’t below the earth; instead it has grown within volcano craters that erupted some 10,000 years ago, giving the appearance of trees sinking into the earth. Hiking around the thick pine forest and several of the 10 craters takes about an hour.

  The forest is 50km from Jìngpò Lake. Some day tours include it in their itinerary. Otherwise, you have to take a bus from the north gate of Jìngpò (¥40 return, one hour), which is doable but very tight if you only have a day at the lake.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  It’s pleasant to spend the night in the park and enjoy the lake when the crowds return to their hotels in Mǔdānjiāng.

  There are a few places to eat standard Chinese fare and snacks around the lake and ferry dock. For a day trip, you're better off bringing your own food for quality and cost.

  Jìngpò Hú Shānzhuāng JiǔdiànHOTEL$$$

  (镜泊湖山庄酒店 %139 0483 9459, 0453 627 0039; Jìngpò Lake; r ¥480-580; ai)

  This hotel sits just back from the water at the first lakeside drop-off point for the shuttle buses. Rooms are very modern, some with lake views, and the hotel’s restaurant has decent food (if a little overpriced). Discounts can knock prices down to the ¥240 range or less if you choose a room without a view.

  8Getting There & Away

  The easiest way to get to Jìngpò Lake is on the one-day tours that leave from the train station in Mǔdānjiāng from 6.30am to 7.30am. Tours cost ¥235 and include transport and admission, but no guide. Transport to the Diàoshuǐlóu Waterfall and Underground Forest are an extra ¥50 and ¥80 respectively, including waiting but not admission. Call 139 4533 1797 or book at a booth in front of the train station.

  If you want to come here under your own steam, you can get a direct bus from the Mǔdānjiāng bus station (¥25, 2½ hours, 1.30pm and 2.30pm) or train station (¥25, two hours, 7.30am). If you want an earlier start from Mǔdānjiāng, first go to Dōngjīng Chéng (东京城, ¥15, 1½ hours, frequent) then change to a minibus (¥10, 40 to 60 minutes) to the lake. In the late afternoon you can try to get a seat on one of the tour buses directly back to Mǔdānjiāng from the lake (¥30) or head back again via Dōngjīng Chéng.

  8Getting Around

  The ticket centre for the lake is at the North Gate (Běimén). From here walk about five minutes to a car park for shuttle buses to the lake and ferry dock (get a ticket to the stop ‘Jìngpò Shānzhuāng’; 镜泊山庄) and other sights (¥12 per ride). Diàoshuǐlóu Waterfall is just behind this car park.

  SKIING IN CHINA

  China’s ski industry has all the appearance of a success story. From 20,000 visits to the slopes in 1996, numbers grew to around 15 million by 2012. There are now over 20 large resorts across the country in areas as diverse as Jílín, Hēilóngjiāng, Yúnnán and Héběi provinces, many of them also popular with foreigners and expats. With the lead up to the Winter Olympics in China in 2022, there is a new local sense of urgency to learn how to ski or at least to be seen doing it.

  Building slopes and resorts has been easy; maintaining them while a ski culture develops has not. In 2012 there was renewed hope, however, as another round of investment hit the industry. This time the focus would be on upping the luxury quotient, and also opening more runs and facilities for absolute beginners.

  In China’s north, the largest resorts are Jílín’s Běidàhú Ski Resort and Hēilóngjiāng’s Yàbùlì Ski Resort (亚布力滑雪中心, Yàbùlì Huáxuě Zhōngxīn www.yabuliski.com) 200km southeast of Harbin. Yàbùlì was China’s first destination ski resort, and remains the training centre for the Chinese Olympic ski team. Since 2009 the resort has expanded to cover two mountains and now has a good division of advanced, intermediate and beginner runs, as well as a four-star lodge that can reasonably cater to Western guests.

  The latest slopes to be developed in the region are at Chángbái Shān on the China–North Korean border located about 15km from the new airport. At the Wanda Chángbái Shān International Resort, you'll find 20 runs on two mountains as well as a luxury alpine village offering hotels, restaurants and private condos. Top-notch hotels in the area include the Sheraton and Westin chain of hotels. They o
ffer guest pick-ups from the train station or airport.

  Lift tickets in the north average around ¥500 per day on weekends, and a little less on weekdays. Clothing and equipment rental comes to another ¥140.

  Wǔdàlián Chí 五大连池

  %0456

  Formed by a series of volcanic eruptions, the Wǔdàlián Chí (五大连池) is a nature reserve boasting one of northern China’s most mesmerising landscapes. It’s a genuine Lost World with vast fields of hardened lava, rivers of basalt, volcanic peaks, azure lakes and the odd little reed-lined pond. Although one day is enough for most people, you could spend days exploring.

  The last time the volcanoes erupted was in 1720, when the lava flow blocked the nearby North River (Běi Hé), forming the series of five interconnected lakes that give the area its name. Wǔdàlián Chí is about 250km northwest of Harbin and, in addition to the volcanic landscape, is home to mineral springs that draw busloads of Chinese and Russian tourists to slurp the allegedly curative waters. So many Russians roll up that the town’s street signs are in both Chinese and Russian.

  It’s only really viable to visit Wǔdàlián Chí between May and October because of the cold and wind the rest of the year.

  1Sights

  There’s no real town here, just a long, pleasant tree-lined street called Yaoquan Lu (药泉路). Everything you want is on a section that runs west of the bus station. The intersection of Yaoquan Lu and Shilong Lu (about 3km from the bus stop) is the main crossroad and is smack in the middle of the hotel area.

  oLǎohēi ShānVOLCANO

  (老黑山 ¥80 plus compulsory shuttle fee ¥25; h7.30am-7pm May-Oct)

  This huge area is a fascinating mix of hardened lava fields, a crater, a lake and austere white trees. It's mostly easy walking with the exception of the mainly uphill 1km stair climb to the summit of Lǎohēi Shān itself, one of the area’s 14 volcanoes. Do a circuit of the windy crater lip for panoramic views of the lakes and other volcanoes dotting the landscape.

  Taxis drop you at the ticket booth, from where park shuttle buses take you to a large car park. To the left is the trail up the mountain. Returning down the same path, this time take the right path from the drop off, along a boardwalk to the aptly named Shí Hǎi (石海; Stone Sea), a magnificent lava field.

  Back in the car park smaller green shuttle buses take you to Huǒshāo Shān (火烧山) and the end of the road at another collection of weirdly shaped lava stones. This stretch is one of Wǔdàlián Chí’s most enchanting, with lava-rock rivers, birch forests, grassy fields, ponds around Third Lake and more wide stretches of lava fields.

  There are only two (expensive) shops, so bring water and snacks.

  Lóngmén ‘Stone Village’NATURAL FEATURE

  (龙门石寨, Lóngmén Shízhài ¥50; h7am-6pm May-Oct)

  At this impressive lava field reminiscent of Middle Earth's Mordor (minus the orcs), walk through a forest of white and black birch trees on a network of boardwalks, with the lava rocks stretching away in the distance on both sides.

  If you're visiting Wǔdàlián Chí's other volcanic sites, especially Lǎohēi Shān, you could easily skip this more distant (but very similar) site without missing much.

  Wēnbó LakeVOLCANO

  (温泊湖, Wēnbó Hú ¥50; h7.30am-5.30pm)

  A long boardwalk takes visitors through a lava field dotted with ponds and informative interpretive boards explaining lava-related phenomenon such as fissures and, of course, the field itself. The boardwalk ends at a small dock where you transfer to a boat for a slow putter down a reed-lined river. Your taxi will arrange to pick you from where the boat docks.

  Third LakeLAKE

  (三池, Sān Chí boat tour ¥80)

  Welcome to Third Lake, the largest of the five interconnected lakes that give rise to the region's name. Here, you can feel the wind whip through your hair on a zippy 40-minute boat ride across the still water. Or just inspect the hardened lava edges.

  2Activities

  For a loop taking in lakes, volcanoes and caves, most people hire a taxi (¥150). If your time is short, just visit Lǎohēi Shān and you will get most of what the area has to offer, as the other sites tend to be repeats of the hardened lava landscape on a smaller scale.

  4Sleeping

  Yaoquan Lu, the main east–west drag in Wǔdàlián Chí, has a dozen or more hotels operating from May to October. The newest hotels are about 500m up the road from the bus station.

  Some travellers base themselves in Wǔdàlián Chí Shì (五大连池市), a larger town 20km away where most buses drop you off from Harbin. Close to the bus station there are some hotels and plenty of restaurants. However, it's worth making the effort to base yourself in Wǔdàlián Chí itself.

  Liu JieHOSTEL$

  (刘姐, Liú Jiě %158 4687 3866; dm ¥40; W)

  This friendly teacher has converted a few new-build apartments on the outskirts of town into comfortable dorms/hostels. There are only a few shops and restaurants nearby, but it's a perfectly fine base. She will organise pick-up from/drop-off at the bus station as well as a taxi to see the local sights.

  Liu Jie speaks barely any English but is willing to use translation and chat apps to communicate.

  Quanshan New Holiday InnHOTEL$$

  (新泉山假日酒店; Xīnquánshān Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn %0456 722 6999; Yaoquan Donglu, 药泉东路 d & tw incl breakfast ¥368-698; aiW)

  Unrelated to the Western Holiday Inn chain, this Chinese-run hotel is located 500m up the road from the bus station just off the main road. Modern rooms are fitted with plush carpets and large comfy beds. The cheaper rooms are windowless but just as comfortable. Discounts bring rooms down to ¥150 during the shoulder season.

  5Eating

  There are eateries on Guotu Jie, the street parallel to Yaoquan Lu near the Quanshan New Holiday Inn, or at the intersection of Yaoquan and Shilong Lu. Plenty of greasy-spoon choices (dishes ¥8 to ¥48) largely serve the same five types of local fish the area is famous for. You can also get cheap jiǎozi, noodles and BBQ. Several grocery stores sell fruit and imported snacks.

  oWángmáolǘ Dòufu Měishí DiànCHINESE$$

  (王毛驴豆腐美食店 off Guotu Jie; dishes ¥22-58; h11am-9.30pm)

  The locally made tofu is some of the best you'll taste in China. It's soft and delicate, and served in a variety of ways: with fish, vegies and such. If you can't decide, take your pick from the picture menu on the wall. It's located off Guotu Jie, the street parallel to the main drag where the Quanshan New Holiday Inn hotel is.

  If you get lost, ask locals for directions; it's a famous restaurant.

  8Information

  There is an ICBC (工商银行; Gōngshāng Yínháng) ATM accepting foreign cards in Wǔdàlián Chí on Guotu Jie. Bringing a little extra cash is not a bad idea because it would be easy to get stuck nowhere near a bank.

  8Getting There & Away

  Both Wǔdàlián Chí and Wǔdàlián Chí Shì have bus stations. Direct buses run from Harbin (¥100, six hours, four daily at 9am, 11.30am, 1.30pm and 2.45pm). The 1.30pm bus terminates at Wǔdàlián Chí (making it the best choice for most visitors) while the other two terminate at the city proper of Wǔdàlián Chí Shì, further from the sights. A taxi the rest of the way to the 'tourist zone' costs ¥40.

  Buses leave for Harbin from Wǔdàlián Chí (¥100, six hours, 5.40am and 8.10am) and Wǔdàlián Chí Shì (6.50am and 9.30am). There are also buses to Hēihé and Běi’ān (1½ hours), the nearest train station, which has connections on to Harbin （seats ¥29 to ¥51, five to seven hours).

  8Getting Around

  Taxis make the trip from the bus station to the hotel area for ¥5 to ¥10.

  CRANE COUNTRY

  Northeastern China is home to several nature reserves established to protect endangered species of wild cranes. Zhālóng Nature Reserve (扎龙自然保护区, Zhālóng Zìrán Bǎohùqū ¥60; h8am-5.30pm) near Qíqíhā’ěr is the most accessible and most visited of these sanctuaries. The reserve is home t
o some 260 bird species, including several types of rare cranes. Four of the species that migrate here are on the endangered list: the extremely rare red-crowned crane, the white-naped crane, the Siberian crane and the hooded crane.

  The reserve comprises some 2100 sq km of wetlands that are on a bird migration path extending from the Russian Arctic down into Southeast Asia. Hundreds of birds arrive in April and May, rear their young from June to August and depart in September and October. Unfortunately, a significant percentage of the birds you can see live are in captivity and are periodically released so that visitors can take photos.

  The best time to visit Zhālóng is in spring. In summer the mosquitoes can be more plentiful than the birds – take repellent! To get here, head to Qíqíhā’ěr and board bus 306 (¥20, 45 minutes, half-hourly) from Dàrùnfā (大润发). Birds are released at 9.30am, 11am, 2pm and 3.30pm.

  The Xiànghǎi National Nature Reserve (向海, Xiànghǎi Guójiā Zìrán Bǎohùqū), 310km west of Chángchūn in Jílín province, is on the migration path for Siberian cranes, and the rare red-crowned, white-naped and demoiselle cranes breed here. More than 160 bird species, including several of these cranes, have been identified at the Horqin National Nature Reserve (科尔沁, Kē’ěrqìn Guójiā Zìrán Bǎohùqū), which borders Xianghai in Inner Mongolia. The Mòmògé National Nature Reserve (莫莫格, Mòmògé Guójiā Zìrán Bǎohùqū) in northern Jílín province is also an important wetlands area and bird breeding site.