(北京烤鸭店, Běijīng Roast Duck Restaurant MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8335 9839; 40-7 Beijing Donglu, 北京东路40-7号 h11am-2pm & 5-10pm)
This place is reasonably elegant and certainly no dive, yet you can order up half a Peking duck (半只烤鸭; bànzhī kǎoyā) here for a paltry ¥39, including scallions, cucumbers and pancakes. That's a meal for one sorted. With a large chilled beer thrown in for another ¥8, it's a steal and only slightly more than what you'd pay for fast food.
There are loads of other dishes on the photo menu on the wall, but it's the duck that's the main draw. Appropriately enough, it's located on Beijing Donglu.
Héfēng BiàndāngJAPANESE$
(和风便当 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21-2 Zhongshan Donglu, 中山东路21-2号 mains from ¥20; h9am-9pm; W; mXinjiekou)
This small wood-themed sushi spot with Japanese lanterns hanging outside does some excellent sets – the curry shrimps (¥38) in particular is very tasty and filling, with miso soup, a small salad and a dessert; great value. No English menu, but there's a picture menu outside.
oElement FreshCAFE$$
(新元素, Xīnyuánsù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.elementfresh.com; 1st fl, IST Mall, 100 Zhongshan Nanlu, 中山南路100号艾尚天地1楼 mains from ¥48; h11am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & Sun; W; mXinjiekou)
Ever-trendy Element Fresh gives the iffy Nánjīng cafe culture a good kick in the pants. The setting is smooth, the ambient tunes funky, the lines clean, the wholesome menu a delight and candles come on at night. Balk you may at paying ¥69 for homemade hummus, but it comes loaded with tons of pitta, tomatoes, carrots, cucumber, celery plus green and black olives.
MotuBURGERS$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %177 0159 8220; 107 Gutong Xiang, 箍桶巷107号 mains from ¥53; h10am-9pm; W; mWudingmen)S
Down along spruced-up Laomen Dong, New Zealander–owned Motu does a brisk trade in fine burgers. Order at the till, take a numbered flag and try and grab one of the balcony seats overlooking Gutong Alley (Gutong Xiang). Ingredients, including beef, are organic, with an emphasis on quality. Burgers are full, fat and juicy; herbivores can size up the tasty Kumara Burger.
AladdinXINJIANG$$
(阿拉丁, Ālādīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 43 Luolang Xiang, 罗廊巷43号 mains from ¥35; h11am-9.30pm)
This smartly attired Xīnjiāng restaurant is done up in lime green and cream, with a mezzanine floor above. The sizeable menu is, of course, packed with lamb: ribs (¥10 each), kebabs (¥5 each) or the whole roasted lamb (¥168); but there's lots else besides, including beef bacon naan pizza (¥36), green cabbage tofu soup (¥28) and Aladdin milk rice (¥16) for pudding.
Accompany the meal with a Xīnjiāng black beer (¥15).
WagasCAFE$$
(沃歌斯, Wògēsī MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wagas.com.cn; A108, IST Mall, 100 Zhongshan Nanlu, 中山南路100号艾尚天地A108室 mains from ¥55; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; W; mXinjiekou)
Wagas is everyone's darling. The setting is all industrial chic: concrete floor, patchy and distressed white painted grey brick, staff in snappy but casual black outfits and a relaxed, casual crowd. The menu is sandwiches, wraps, pasta, modern Asian dishes, brekkies and brunches. Good deals and offers abound, chalked up on the wall: express sandwiches are 50% off before 11am Monday to Friday.
Sculpting in TimeWESTERN, CAFE$$
(雕刻时光, Diāokè Shíguāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 32 Dashiba Jie, 大石坝街32号 mains ¥50; h9am-11pm; W; mFuzimiao)
This simply adorable and very spacious riverside cafe is an appealing, relaxed spot with a delightful outdoor terrace overlooking the water. Grab a coffee and a seat outside and watch the pleasure boats drift by. The crowd is cool but unpretentious, the music soft and dreamy, while the fixtures are all birdcage lampshades, cream curtains and comfy chairs. The pastries and cakes make a good afternoon treat.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Western-style drinking holes, sports bars and specialist beer bars congregate along Shanghai Lu. Nánjīng 1912, a large and attractively housed quadrant of neon-lit bars and cafes on the corner of Taiping Beilu and Changjiang Lu, is interesting for a stroll, but none of the bars are of much interest; you can find a branch of Starbucks here and other chain names.
In the summer swelter, look no further than branches of Coco for bubble tea (from ¥8).
oBrewsell'sBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brewsells.com; 77-1 Shanghai Lu, 上海路77-1号 beers from ¥30; h5pm-2am; mZhujiang Lu)
There's a great vibe at this enterprising bar with Vedett (¥38), La Chouffe (¥38) and Asahi (¥28) on tap, and Trappistes Rochefort, blue/red Chimay (¥40) and other Belgian brews cooling in the fridge. This small, specialist imported beer bar (named after 'Brussels') has expat ale fiends descending in droves for fine beer and a fun quiz night. It also does Belgian waffles.
Asahi is ¥10 11am to 8pm; otherwise happy hour is 5pm to 8pm for premium drafts. The bar staff are friendly and speak good English.
Behind the WallBAR
(答案, Dá’àn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.behindthewall-nanjing.com; 150 Shanghai Lu, 上海路150号 pint ¥30; h6pm-1am; W; mGulou)
Doubling as a Mexican restaurant, this atmospheric, recently repainted and dimly illuminated bar on the bar street of Shanghai Lu divides into many rooms and alcoves, with a terrace outside for warmer months. There's draught beer, sangria and hypnotising live Flamenco guitar performances on Friday and Saturday evenings from Louis 'wu el lobo' (who really is very good).
A bottle of Tsingtao is ¥15.
3Entertainment
Lányuàn TheatreCHINESE OPERA
(兰苑剧场, Lányuàn Jùchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8446 9284; 4 Chaotiangong, 朝天宫4号 mShanghai Lu)
Kūnqǔ (昆曲), an extant form of Chinese opera originating from Jiāngsū, is staged at this small theatre every Saturday evening at 7.15pm. There are English subtitles and tickets are between ¥120 and ¥150.
7Shopping
The pedestrian area around Fūzǐ Temple has souvenirs, clothing, shoes and antiques for sale, while shopping malls such as Deji Plaza are excellent for finding everything under one roof.
oLibrairie Avant-GardeBOOKS
(先锋书店, Xiānfēng Shūdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 173 Guangzhou Lu, 广州路173号 h10am-9.30pm; mShanghai Lu)
Housed in a vast and disused bomb shelter, this astonishing indie bookshop has very few foreign-language books, but the underground, left-field ambience makes it a must for bibliophiles. With miles of books and a cavernous concrete floor, it's a Nánjīng cultural landmark, loved by students and literati for its sizeable collection of social science and humanities books.
Foreign Languages BookstoreBOOKS
(外文书店, Wàiwén Shūdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 218 Zhongshan Donglu, 中山东路218号 h9am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat; mDaxinggong)
There's a big collection of hardback and paperback novels on the 2nd floor, where there's also a small and very quiet cafe.
8Information
Nanjing Expats (www.nanjingexpat.com) and Map (www.mapmagazine.com.cn) are handy expat listings magazines, available at restaurants and bars. Nanjing Expats comes in a handy pocket-size version.
Medical Services
Angel Flossy-Care Dental CenterDENTIST
(天使福乐氏口腔, Tiānshǐ Fúlèshì Kǒuqiāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8650 2567; www.tskq025.net; 4th fl, 10 Kexiang Xiang (Kexiang Alley), 科巷10号4楼 mDaxinggong)
Courteous English-speaking staff and very professional treatment.
Jiāngsū People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(江苏省人民医院, Jiāngsū Shěng Rénmín Yīyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8371 8836; 300 Guangzhou Lu, 广州路300号 h8am-noon & 2-5.30pm)
Runs a clinic for expats and has English-speaking doctors available.
Nánjīng International SOS ClinicMEDICAL
(南京国际SOS 紧急救援诊所, Nánjīng Guójì SOS Jǐnjí Jiùyuán Zhěnsuǒ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8480 2842; www.clinicsinchina.com; 319 Zhongshan Donglu, 中山
东路319号 h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat; mMinggugong)
On the ground floor of the Grand Metropark Hotel.
Money
Most bank ATMs are open 24 hours and take international cards. The banks listed here change major currency and travellers cheques.
Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 29 Hongwu Lu; 洪武路29号 h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat; mXinjiekou) Handily located branch at the centre of town.
Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Zhongshan Donglu; 中山东路3号 h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat; mXinjiekou) Centrally located.
Post
China PostPOST
(Yóujú; GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Zhongshan Lu; h8am-6pm)
Set in a lovely old detached building on Zhongshan Lu just north of the Xinjiekou intersection.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Zhongshan Nanlu, 中山南路2号 h8am-6.30pm; mGulou)
Postal services and international phone calls.
Public Security Bureau
Exit & Entry Administration Service CenterPOLICE
(南京市公安局出入境办证服务中心, Nángjīngshì Gōng’ānjú Chūrùjìng Bānzhèng Fúwù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8442 0018; 173 Baixia Lu, 白下路173号 h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Sun; mChangfu Jie)
For visa extensions.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Nánjīng Lùkǒu International Airport (南京禄口国际机场; Nánjīng Lùkǒu Guójì Jīchǎng ) has regular air connections to all major Chinese cities. The main office for the Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC; 中国民航; Zhōngguó Mínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8449 9378; 50 Ruijin Lu; 瑞金路50号 ) is near the terminus of bus 37, but you can also buy tickets at most top-end hotels and also on www.english.ctrip.com. Dragonair (港龙航空; Gǎnglóng Hángkōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8471 0181; room 751-53, World Trade Centre, 2 Hanzhong Lu; 汉中路2号 ) has daily flights to Hong Kong.
Bus
Of Nánjīng’s numerous long-distance bus stations, Nánjīng Long-Distance Bus Station (南京中央门长途汽车站; Nánjīng Zhōngyāng Chángtú Qìchēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8533 1288; 1 Jianning Lu; 建宁路1号 ), aka Zhōngyángmén long-distance station, is the largest. It is located southwest of the wide-bridged intersection with Zhongyang Lu. Regular buses departing from here include:
AHángzhōu ¥128, four hours
AHéféi ¥53 to ¥62, 2½ hours
AShànghǎi ¥88, four hours
ASūzhōu ¥65 to ¥72, 2½ hours
ATúnxī (for Huángshān) ¥114, five hours
AWúxī ¥59, two hours
Buses departing the East Bus Station (长途汽车东站; Chángtú Qìchē Dōngzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ):
AYángzhōu ¥37, 1½ hours
AZhènjiāng ¥18, 1½ hours
From Nánjīng Train Station, take bus 13 north to Zhōngyāngmén long-distance bus station. Bus 2 from Xīnjīekǒu goes to the East Bus Station. A taxi from town will cost ¥20 to ¥25 to either station.
Train
Nánjīng Train Station (%025 8582 2222) is a major stop on the Běijīng–Shànghǎi train line. Heading eastward from Nánjīng, the line to Shànghǎi connects with Zhènjiāng, Wúxī and Sūzhōu. Many G and D trains depart or terminate at the Nánjīng South Train Station (南京南站; Nánjīng Nánzhàn), so check when you buy your ticket. G trains to Běijīng all depart from Nánjīng South Train Station.
Trains from Nánjīng train station in the north of town:
AHuángshān (Túnxī) hard/soft sleeper ¥108/159, six to eight hours, six daily
AShànghǎi G train (main train station, Hóngqiáo and Shànghǎi), 1st/2nd class ¥220/140, 1½ to two hours, regular
ASūzhōu G train, 1st/2nd class ¥160/100, 85 minutes, regular
AYángzhōu hard/soft seat ¥17/28, 80 minutes, nine daily
AXī'ān overnight Z train hard sleeper ¥280, 12 hours, five per day
AXī'ān North D train 2nd-class seat/soft sleeper ¥279/685, eight hours, one daily (12.37am)
Trains leaving from Nánjīng South train station:
ABěijīng South G train, 1st/2nd class ¥749/444, 4½ hours, regular
AHángzhōu East G train 1st/2nd class ¥198/118, 1½ to two hours, regular
AXiàmén North D train, 1st/2nd class ¥528/424, nine to 11 hours, four daily
Try to get tickets via your hotel or the train ticket office (火车票售票处; Huǒchēpiào Shòupiàochù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Zhongshan Nanlu; 中山南路2号 h8.30am-5pm) on the 3rd floor of the post office, the train ticket office (火车票售票处; Huǒchēpiào Shòupiàochù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 35 Taiping Beilu; 太平北路35号 h8-11am & noon-5pm) on Taiping Beilu or the train ticket office (火车票售票处; Huǒchēpiào Shòupiàochù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 416 Zhongshan Donglu; 中山东路416号 h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat) on Zhongshan Donglu.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The S1 Airport Line express metro link (¥6 to ¥8, 35 minutes, first/last train to airport 6am/10pm, first/last train from airport 6.40am/10pm) connects directly to the airport from Nánjīng South train station, itself on Lines 1 and 3. Buses (¥20, 90 minutes) also run to Nánjīng Lùkǒu Airport every 20 minutes between 6am and 9pm from the square east of Nánjīng train station. Another airport bus runs from Nánjīng South train station (¥20, 40 minutes, 6am to 9pm). Most hotels have hourly shuttle buses to and from the airport too. A taxi to the airport will cost around ¥140 to ¥150.
Bicycle
There is a bike-hire scheme in town, but it is not that easy for short-stay foreigners to use. You need to apply for a swipe card by taking your passport along to an office and paying ¥250 (¥200 of that is deposit) to activate the card. English skills will be limited. Then hire of the orange bikes that can be found in stations across the city centre is free for the first two hours, the third hour is ¥1 and then it's ¥3 per hour thereafter.
Offices where you can apply:
Gǔlóu District Service Centre (鼓楼区行政服务中心; Gǔlóu Qū Xíngzhèng Fúwù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 84 Shanxi Lu; 山西路84号 )
Xuánwǔ District Service Centre (玄武区行政服务中心; Xuánwǔ Qū Xíngzhèng Fúwù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 455 Zhujiang Lu; 珠江路455号 mFuqiao)
Bus
There are tourist bus routes that visit many of the sights:
ABus Y1 Goes from Nánjīng Train Station and Nánjīng Long-Distance Bus Station through the city to the Sun Yatsen Mausoleum.
ABus Y2 Starts in the south at the Martyrs’ Cemetery (烈士墓地; Lièshì Mùdì), passes Fūzǐ Temple and terminates halfway up Zǐjīn Mountain.
ABus Y3 Passes by Nánjīng Train Station en route to the Míng Xiàolíng Tomb and Línggǔ Temple.
Many local maps contain bus routes. Normal buses cost ¥1 and tourist buses cost ¥2.
A stored-value transport card (jīnlíngtōng; 金陵通) is available for a deposit of ¥25 with a minimum top-up credit of ¥50. The card can be used on buses, the metro and taxis.
Metro
Nánjīng has a very efficient, rapidly expanding metro system that cuts through the city centre and runs out to the suburbs. Line 1 runs north to south and links both train stations. Line 2 goes east from Jīngtīanlù to Yóufāngqíao in the west. Line 10 connects Andemen to Yushan Lu, while the S1 Line runs to the airport from Nanjing South Railway Station. The S8 Line runs north of the Yangzi River (Cháng Jiāng). Other lines are under construction. Tickets are ¥2 to ¥5 and trains generally run between around 6am and 10pm or 11pm.
Taxi
Taxi flagfall is ¥11 and it’s ¥2.40 for each 3km thereafter. Trips to most destinations in the city are ¥11 to ¥14. Taxis are easy to flag down anywhere in the city.
WORTH A TRIP
QīXIá TEMPLE
oQīxiá TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(栖霞寺, Qīxiá Sì Jan-Sep ¥
25, Oct-Dec ¥40; h7am-5.30pm)
This sacred site on Qīxiá Mountain (栖霞山; Qīxiá Shān), 22km northeast of Nánjīng, was founded by the Buddhist monk Ming Sengshao during the Southern Qi dynasty, and remains an active place of worship. Long one of China’s most important monasteries, today it’s still one of its largest Buddhist seminaries. Relics believed to be part of Gautama Buddha's skull were unveiled and interred here. The mountain's maple trees are a major draw in spring when the hills are splashed in crimson and bronze.
The two main halls are the Maitreya Hall, with a statue of the Maitreya Buddha sitting cross-legged at the entrance; and the Vairocana Hall, housing a 5m-tall statue of the Vairocana Buddha.
Behind Qīxiá Temple is the Thousand Buddha Cliff (千佛岩; Qiānfó Yán). Several grottoes housing stone statues are carved into the hillside, the earliest of which dates as far back as the Qi dynasty (AD 479–502); others are from the Tang, Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties. There is also a small stone pagoda, Shèlì Pagoda (舍利塔; Shèlì Tǎ), which was built in AD 601 and rebuilt during the late Tang period. The upper part has engraved sutras and carvings of Buddha; around the base, each of the pagoda’s eight sides depicts tales from the life of Sakyamuni.
Continue northwards to admire lovely views in the scenic area behind the temple. The steep path meanders via an array of pavilions and rocky outcrops: it's serene, so consider bringing lunch and spending time here.
Get to the temple from Nánjīng by public bus (南上; Nán Shàng; ¥2.50, one hour) from a stop by Nánjīng Train Station. When you get off the bus, you will be approached by motorcycle taxis that will offer to take you into the temple the ‘back’ way for ¥10 or more. Be warned, it’s an arduous hike up and down a large hill to the temple if you do this.
Lonely Planet China Page 46
