Sūzhōu 苏州
%0512 / Pop 1.4 million
Historically, Sūzhōu (苏州) was synonymous with high culture and elegance, and generations of artists, scholars, writers and high society in China were drawn by its exquisite art forms and the delicate beauty of its gardens. Like all modern Chinese towns, Sūzhōu has unfortunately endured much destruction of its heritage and its replacement with largely arbitrary chunks of modern architecture.
Having said that, the city still retains enough pockets of charm to warrant two to three days’ exploration on foot or by bike. And the gardens, Sūzhōu’s main attraction, are a symphonic combination of rocks, water, trees and pavilions that reflects the Chinese appreciation of balance and harmony. Adding to the charm are some excellent museums, surviving canal scenes, pagodas and humpbacked bridges. The gardens in particular can get busy, so avoid visiting at the weekend or during public holidays, if possible.
History
Dating back some 2500 years, Sūzhōu is one of the oldest towns in the Yangzi Basin. With the completion of the Grand Canal during the Sui dynasty, Sūzhōu began to flourish as a centre of shipping and grain storage, bustling with merchants and artisans.
By the 14th century Sūzhōu had become China’s leading silk-producing city. Aristocrats, pleasure seekers, famous scholars, actors and painters arrived, constructing villas and garden retreats.
The town’s winning image as a ‘Garden City’ or a ‘Venice of the East’ came from its medieval blend of woodblock guilds and embroidery societies, whitewashed housing, cobbled streets, tree-lined avenues and canals. The local women were considered the most beautiful in China, largely thanks to the mellifluous local accent, and the city was home to a variety of rich merchants and bookish scholars…no doubt drawn by the beautiful women.
In 1860 Taiping troops took the town without a blow and in 1896 Sūzhōu was opened to foreign trade, with Japanese and other international concessions. Since 1949 much of the historic city, including its city walls, has vanished. A conscious prettification of the city has set the tone for the last decade or so, and areas such as Pingjiang Lu and the Pán Gate Scenic Area suggest the Sūzhōu of old.
Sūzhōu
1Top Sights
1Garden of the Master of the NetsC6
2Humble Administrator's GardenC2
3Pán Gate Scenic AreaA7
4Pingjiang LuD4
5Sūzhōu MuseumC2
1Sights
6Blue Wave PavilionC6
7Couple's GardenD3
8Garden of HarmonyB4
9Kūnqǔ Opera MuseumD3
10North Temple PagodaB2
11Ruìguāng PagodaB7
12Sūzhōu Art MuseumB2
13Sūzhōu Silk MuseumB2
14Temple of MysteryC3
15Twin PagodasC4
4Sleeping
16Garden HotelC6
17Pan Pacific SūzhōuB6
18Píngjiāng LodgeC4
19Sūzhōu Mingtown Youth HostelD4
20Sūzhōu Watertown Youth HostelB5
5Eating
21PingvonC3
22Wúmén RénjiāC2
23Yǎba ShēngjiānC3
24ZhūhóngxīngC4
6Drinking & Nightlife
25BookwormC5
26Locke PubC3
3Entertainment
Garden of the Master of the NetsC6
Kūnqǔ Opera MuseumD3
27Píngtán MuseumD3
8Information
28Bank of ChinaB3
29Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaB4
Transport
30Liánhé Ticket CentreB3
31Train Ticket Office (Guanqian Jie)C4
1Sights
High-season prices apply from March to early May and September to October. Gardens and museums stop selling tickets 30 minutes before closing, and are best visited early in the mornings before crowds arrive. The gardens were not designed for tour groups, so don't expect too much Zen-like tranquillity.
oPingjiang LuSTREET
(平江路 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mLindun Lu or Xiangmen)
While most of the town canals have been sealed and paved into roads, the pedestrianised Pingjiang Lu offers clues to the Sūzhōu of yesteryear. On the eastern side of the city, this canalside road has whitewashed local houses, many now converted to guesthouses, teahouses or trendy cafes selling overpriced beverages, sitting comfortably side-by-side. Duck down some of the side streets that jut out from the main path for a glimpse at slow-paced local life. It's a lovely place for a stroll.
Along the main drag it's all rice wine, Tibetan trinkets, cigar sellers, fried potatoes, cake, dumplings and ice-cream vendors.
oPán Gate Scenic AreaLANDMARK
(盘门, Pán Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Dong Dajie, 东大街1号 Pán Gate only/with Ruìguāng Pagoda ¥40/46; h7.30am-6pm; gY2)
This far quieter part of Sūzhōu is lovely, with a section of the city wall straddling the outer moat in the southwest corner of the city. You can find Sūzhōu’s only remaining original coiled gate, Pán Gate, dating from 1355; the overgrown double-walled water gate was used for controlling waterways, with defensive positions at the top. From the gate you can view the exquisite arched Wúmén Bridge (Wúmén Qiáo) to the east, the long moat and the crumbling Ruìguāng Pagoda (瑞光塔; Ruìguāng Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dong Dajie; 东大街 ¥6), constructed in 1004.
The gate is also connected to 300m of the ancient city wall, which visitors can walk along, past old women who come here to harvest dandelions. The gate also backs onto a delightful scenic area, dotted with old halls, bell towers, bridges, pavilions and a lake as well as the small Wǔxiàng Temple (Wǔxiàng Cí). It's far less crowded than Sūzhōu's gardens and, in many ways, more attractive. To get here, take tourist bus Y2 or a taxi.
oGarden of the Master of the NetsGARDENS
(网师园, Wǎngshī Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; high/low season ¥30/20; h7.30am-5pm)
Off Shiquan Jie, this pocket-sized garden is considered one of Sūzhōu's best preserved. Laid out in the 12th century, it went to seed and was later restored in the 18th century as part of the home of a retired official turned fisherman (hence the name). A striking feature is the use of space: the labyrinth of courtyards, with windows framing other parts of the garden, is ingeniously designed to give the illusion of a much larger area.
The central section is the main garden and the western section is an inner garden with a courtyard containing the master’s study. Trivia nuts note: the Peony Study was used as the model for the Astor Court and Ming Garden in the Museum of Modern Art, New York.
In the warmer months (March to November), music performances (¥100) are held nightly here from 7.30pm.
There are two ways to the entry gate, with English signs and souvenir stalls marking the way: you can enter from the alley on Shiquan Jie; or via Kuojiatou Xiang (阔家头巷), an alley off Daichengqiao Lu.
oHumble Administrator’s GardenGARDENS
(拙政园, Zhuōzhèng Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 178 Dongbei Jie, 东北街178号 high/low season ¥90/70, audio guide free; h7.30am-5.30pm)
The largest of Sūzhōu's gardens, the Humble Administrator’s Garden is often considered to be the most impressive, but its fame draws in constant crowds, so get here early in the morning if you can. First built in 1509, this 5.2-hectare garden is clustered with water features, a museum, a teahouse, zigzagging bridges, bamboo groves and fragrant lotus ponds, along with at least 10 pavilions with poetic names such as ‘Listening to the Sound of Rain’ and ‘Faraway Looking’ pavilions.
oSūzhōu MuseumMUSEUM
(苏州博物馆, Sūzhōu Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 204 Dongbei Jie, 东北街204号 audio guide ¥30; h9am-5pm; gY5)F
This cubist/geometric IM Pei–designed triumph takes a modern interpretation of a Sūzhōu garden, with its confluence of water, bamboo and straight lines, and mixes it with a fascinating array of jade, ceramics, wooden carvings, textiles and other displays, all labelled with good and info
rmative English captions. Look out for the boxwood statue of Avalokiteshvara (Guanyin), dating from the republican period. No flip-flops.
Sūzhōu Art MuseumMUSEUM
(苏州美术馆, Sūzhōu Měishùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2075 Renmin Lu, 人民路2075号 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; mSūzhōu Train Station)F
A dazzling use of daylight and design merges in this new museum, hung with contemporary landscapes, calligraphy and modern art that stands out boldly from a seemingly infinite white space. In a nod to the local vernacular, the interior composition includes a lovely courtyard, sprouting bamboo. The museum is an element of a large complex that also includes the Sūzhōu Cultural Center and a theatre.
Twin PagodasBUDDHIST TEMPLE, PAGODA
(双塔, Shuāng Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dinghuisi Xiang, 定慧寺巷 ¥8; h8am-4.30pm; mLindun Lu)
Beautifully enhanced with flowering magnolias in spring, this delightful courtyard and former temple contains a pair of sublime pagodas, which don't often come in couples. It's one of the more relaxing, peaceful and composed parts of town, so come here for a break. It's also home to the small and little-visited Sūzhōu Ancient Stone Carving Art Museum.
Sūzhōu Silk MuseumMUSEUM
(苏州丝绸博物馆, Sūzhōu Sīchóu Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2001 Renmin Lu, 人民路2001号 h9am-5pm; mSūzhōu Train Station)F
By the 13th century Sūzhōu was the place for silk production and weaving, and the Sūzhōu Silk Museum houses fascinating exhibitions detailing the history of Sūzhōu’s 4000-year-old silk industry. Exhibits include a section on silk-weaving techniques and silk fashion through the dynasties, while you can amble among mulberry shrubs outdoors. You can also see functioning looms and staff at work on, say, a large brocade.
Precious Belt BridgeBRIDGE
(宝带桥; Bǎodài Qiáo )
Straddling the Grand Canal southeast of Sūzhōu, and boasting 53 arches, the lovely Precious Belt Bridge was once a Tang dynasty construction, although the current bridge actually dates to the Ming. It’s a 40-minute bike ride. Head south on Renmin Lu, past the south moat, then left at the TV towers, and the bridge will be on your right. If you’re heading to Tónglǐ, you’ll see the bridge on your right.
Temple of MysteryTAOIST TEMPLE
(玄妙观, Xuánmiào Guàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Guanqian Jie, 观前街 ¥10; h7.30am-5pm; mLindun Lu or Leqiao)
Lashed by electronic music from the shops alongside, the Taoist Temple of Mystery stands in what was once Sūzhōu’s old bazaar, a rowdy entertainment district with travelling performers, acrobats and actors. The temple dates from 1181 and is the sole surviving example of Song architecture in Sūzhōu. The complex contains several elaborately decorated halls, including the huge Sānqīng Diàn (三清殿; Three Purities Hall), which is supported by 60 pillars and capped by a double roof with upturned eaves.
West Garden TempleGARDENS
(西园寺, Xīyuán Sì Xiyuan Lu, 西园路 ¥25; h8am-5pm; gY1, Y3)
This magnificent temple, with its mustard-yellow walls and gracefully curved eaves, was burnt to the ground during the Taiping Rebellion and rebuilt in the late 19th century. Greeting you as you enter the stunning Arhat Hall (罗汉堂; Luóhàn Táng) is an amazing four-faced and thousand-armed statue of Guanyin. Beyond lie mesmerising and slightly unnerving rows of 500 glittering luóhàn (arhats; monks who have achieved enlightenment and passed to nirvana at death) statues, each unique and near life-size.
Luóhàn usually only appear in two rows of nine on either side of the main temple, equalling 18 in total, but on occasion – and in noteworthy temples – they can appear in a huge multitude. A vegetarian restaurant at the temple serves noodles and other simple meat-free fare. The temple is 400m west of the Garden to Linger In. Take Y1 or Y3 from the train station.
Blue Wave PavilionGARDENS
(沧浪亭, Cānglàng Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Renmin Lu, 人民路 high/low season ¥20/15; h7.30am-5pm)
Originally the home of a prince, the oldest garden in Sūzhōu was first built in the 11th century, and has been repeatedly rebuilt since. Instead of attracting hordes of tourists, the wild, overgrown garden around the Blue Wave Pavilion is one of those where the locals actually go to chill and enjoy a leisurely stroll. Lacking a northern wall, the garden creates the illusion of space by borrowing scenes from the outside.
North Temple PagodaPAGODA
(北寺塔, Běisì Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1918 Renmin Lu, 人民路1918号 ¥25; h7.45am-5pm)
The tallest pagoda south of the Yangzi is a beauty, dominating the northern end of Renmin Lu. The nine-storey pagoda is an element of Bào'ēn Temple (报恩寺; Bào'ēn Sì) and you can climb it for sweeping views of hazy modern-day Sūzhōu.
The temple complex goes back 1700 years and was originally a residence; the current reincarnation dates to the 17th century. Off to one side is Nánmù Guānyīn Hall (楠木观音殿; Nánmù Guānyīn Diàn), which was rebuilt in the Ming dynasty with some features imported from elsewhere.
Garden to Linger InGARDENS
(留园, Liú Yuán GOOGLE MAP ; 79 Liuyuan Lu; high/low season ¥55/45; h7.30am-5pm; gY1)
One of the largest gardens in Sūzhōu, this 3-hectare plot was originally built in the Ming dynasty by a doctor as a relaxing place for his recovering patients. It’s easy to see why the patients took to it: the winding corridors are inlaid with calligraphy from celebrated masters, their windows and doorways opening onto unusually shaped rockeries, ponds and dense clusters of bamboo. Stone tablets hang from the walls, inscribed by patients recording their impressions of the place.
The teahouse is a fantastic spot to recover from crowd overload. Order a cup of lóngjǐng (龙井; dragon well tea; ¥15) and relax. The garden is about 3km west of the city centre and can be reached on tourist bus Y1 from the train station or Renmin Lu.
Couple’s GardenGARDENS
(耦园, Ǒu Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Xiaoxinqiao Xiang, 小新桥巷6号 high/low season ¥20/15; h8am-4.30pm; mXiangmen)
The tranquil Couple’s Garden is off the main tourist route and sees slightly fewer visitors than the other gardens, and its pond, courtyards and garden features are quite lovely.
Grand CanalCANAL
(大运河, Dà Yùnhé )
The Grand Canal – its name much grander than its modern-day appearance – passes to the west and south of Sūzhōu, within a 10km range of the town. Hop on suburban buses 13, 14, 15 or 16 to get there. In the northwest, bus 11 follows the canal for a fair distance, taking you on a pleasant tour of the surrounding countryside.
Garden of HarmonyGARDENS
(怡园, Yí Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Renmin Lu, 人民路 ¥15)
One of the less visited gardens around Sūzhōu is the charmingly small Qing dynasty Garden of Harmony, which has assimilated many of the features of older gardens and delicately blended them into a style of its own.
Tiger HillPARK
(虎丘山, Hǔqiū Shān %0512 6723 2305; Huqiu Lu, 虎丘路 high/low season ¥80/60; h7.30am-6pm, to 5pm winter; gY1, Y2)
In the far northwest of town, Tiger Hill is a major drawcard for Chinese tourists and the beacon that draws them is the leaning Cloud Rock Pagoda (云岩塔; Yúnyán Tǎ) atop the hill. The octagonal seven-storey pagoda was built in the 10th century entirely of brick, an innovation in Chinese architecture at the time. It began tilting over 400 years ago, and today the highest point is displaced more than 2m from its original position.
The hill itself is artificial and is the final resting place of He Lu, founding father of Sūzhōu. He Lu died in the 6th century BC and myths have coalesced around him – he is said to have been buried with a collection of 3000 swords and be guarded by a white tiger. Tourist buses Y1 and Y2 from the train station go here.
Kūnqǔ Opera MuseumMUSEUM
(昆曲博物馆, Kūnqǔ Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 14 Zhongzhangjia Xiang, 中张家巷14号 h8.30am-4pm)F
Down a warren of narrow lanes, the small Kūnqǔ Opera Museum is dedicated to kūnqǔ, the opera style o
f the region. The beautiful old theatre houses a stage, musical instruments, costumes and photos of famous performers and also puts on regular performances of kūnqǔ.
TTours
Evening boat tours wind their way around the outer canal leaving nightly from 6pm to 8.30pm (¥120, 55 minutes, half-hourly). The trips, usually with píngtán (singing and storytelling art form sung in the Sūzhōu dialect) performance on board, are a great way to experience old Sūzhōu, passing Pán Gate and heading up to Chāng Gate (in the west of the city wall). Remember to bring bug repellent as the mosquitoes are tenacious. Tickets can be bought at the Tourist Boat Wharf (游船码头; Yóuchuán Mǎtóu GOOGLE MAP ) down the alley east of Rénmín Bridge, which shares the same quarters with the Grand Canal Boats (划船售票处; Huáchuán Shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP ) ticket office. Buses 27 or 94 run to the wharf.
zFestivals & Events
Sūzhōu Silk FestivalCULTURAL
(丝绸节, Sīchóu Jié )
September sees Sūzhōu hosting its silk festival, with exhibitions devoted to silk history and production, and silk merchants showing off their wares to crowds of thousands.
4Sleeping
Hotels in Sūzhōu are not cheap, but there's no shortage of choice, from canalside hostels to comfortable boutique options and professional five-star hotels. Prices can rise across the board at weekends, when rooms can be harder to book, so try to visit from Sunday through to Thursday if possible.
Lonely Planet China Page 47
