Lonely Planet China
Page 57
With its shaded alcoves, glittering pools churning with fish, pavilions, pines sprouting wistfully from rockeries and roving packs of Japanese tourists, the Yùyuán Gardens is one of Shànghǎi's premier sights – but becomes overpoweringly crowded at weekends. The spring and summer blossoms bring a fragrant, floral aspect to the gardens, especially the luxurious petals of its Magnolia grandiflora, Shànghǎi's flower. Other trees include the luohan pine, bristling with thick needles, willows, gingkos, cherry trees and magnificent dawn redwoods.
The Pan family, rich Ming dynasty officials, founded these gardens, which took 18 years (1559–77) to be nurtured into existence before bombardment during the Opium War in 1842. The gardens took another trashing during French reprisals for attacks on their nearby concession during the Taiping Rebellion. Restored, they are a fine example of Ming garden design.
Next to the garden entrance ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the Mid-Lake Pavilion Teahouse, once part of the gardens and now one of the most famous teahouses in China.
The adjacent bazaar may be tacky, but it's good for a browse if you can handle the push and pull of the crowds. The nearby Taoist Temple of the Town God is also worth visiting. Just outside the bazaar is Old Street, known more prosaically as Middle Fangbang Rd, a busy street lined with curio shops and teahouses.
Chénxiānggé MonasteryBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(沉香阁, Chénxiāng Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 29 Chenxiangge Rd; 沉香阁路29号 ¥10; h7am-5pm; mLine 10 to Yuyuan Garden)
Sheltering a community of dark-brown-clothed monks from the Chénhǎi (Sea of Dust) – what Buddhists call the mortal world, but which could equally refer to Shànghǎi’s murky atmosphere – this lovely yellow-walled temple is a tranquil refuge. At the temple rear, the Guanyin Tower guides you upstairs to a glittering effigy of the male-looking goddess, Guanyin herself, within a resplendent gilded cabinet.
Temple of the Town GodTAOIST TEMPLE
(城隍庙, Chénghuáng Miào GOOGLE MAP ; Yùyuán Bazaar, off Middle Fangbang Rd; 豫园商城方浜中路 ¥10; h8.30am-4.30pm; mLine 10 to Yuyuan Garden)
Chinese towns traditionally had a Taoist temple of the town god, but many fell victim to periodic upheaval. Originally dating to the early 15th century, this particular temple was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution and later restored. Note the fine carvings on the roof as you enter the main hall, which is dedicated to Huo Guang, a Han dynasty general, flanked by rows of effigies representing both martial and civil virtues.
Power Station of ArtGALLERY
(上海当代艺术博物馆, Shànghǎi Dāngdài Yìshù Bówùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; Lane 20 Huayuangang Rd; 花园港路200号 h11am-7pm Tue-Sun, last entry 6pm; mLine 4, 8 to South Xizang Rd)F
The vast Power Station of Art in the disused Nánshì Power Plant holds modern large-scale installations, design shows and other temporary exhibitions, some quite provocative. It also hosts the Shànghǎi Biennale.
Cool DocksARCHITECTURE
(老码头, Lǎomǎtóu GOOGLE MAP ; www.thecooldocks.com; 479 South Zhongshan Rd; 中山南路479号 mLine 9 to Xiaonanmen)
The riverside Cool Docks consist of several shíkùmén (石库门; stone-gate houses) surrounded by red-brick warehouses, near (but not quite on) the waterfront. Now full of restaurants and bars and all lit up at night, the Cool Docks' isolated positioning (it lacks the central location and transport connections of Xīntiāndì in the French Concession) has hobbled ambitions. Although high-profile and trendy restaurant, bar and hotel openings have helped give it a much-needed lift, it remains an entertainment backwater.
SHàNGHǎI IN...
ONE DAY
Rise with the sun for early morning riverside scenes on the Bund as the vast city stirs from its slumber. Then stroll down East Nanjing Rd to People’s Square and either the Shànghǎi Museum or the Shànghǎi Urban Planning Exhibition Hall. After a dumpling lunch on Huanghe Rd food street, hop on the metro at People’s Square to shuttle east to Pǔdōng. Explore the fun and interactive Shànghǎi History Museum or contemplate the Bund from the breezy Riverside Promenade, then take high-speed lifts to some of the world’s highest observation decks, in the Shànghǎi Tower or Shànghǎi World Financial Center. Stomach rumbling? Time for dinner in the French Concession, followed by a nightcap on the Bund if you want to go full circle.
TWO DAYS
Beat the crowds with an early start at the Old Town’s Yùyuán Gardens before poking around for souvenirs on Old St and wandering the alleyways. Make your next stop Xīntiāndì for lunch and a visit to the Shíkùmén Open House Museum. Taxi it to Tiánzǐfáng for the afternoon, before another French Concession dinner. Caught a second wind? Catch the acrobats, hit the clubs or unwind with a traditional Chinese massage or some Shànghǎi jazz.
French Concession 法租界
The city's most stylish side, the former French Concession is where the bulk of Shànghǎi’s disposable cash is splashed. The low-rise, villa-lined leafy backstreets are perfectly geared to shopping, dining and entertainment, but a brood of museums makes the former concession – now a handsome melange of several distinct neighbourhoods – a cultural experience as well.
French Concession
1Top Sights
1TiánzǐfángG5
2XīntiāndìH2
1Sights
3Liúli China MuseumG5
4Propaganda Poster Art CentreA4
5Ren Weiyin Art GalleryG5
6Shànghǎi Arts & Crafts MuseumD4
7Shíkùmén Open House MuseumH2
8Site of the 1st National Congress of the CCPH2
9Wukang Road Tourist Information CentreA5
2Activities, Courses & Tours
10Double Rainbow Massage HouseF4
11Kitchen At…E5
4Sleeping
12AndazH2
13Blue Mountain Youth HostelH7
14Kevin's Old HouseC3
15Langham XīntiāndìH2
16Magnolia Bed & BreakfastD3
17QuintetC3
18Yuèyáng HotelD5
5Eating
19Ā Dà CóngyóubǐngF3
20Baker & SpiceB4
21EastG5
22ElEfanteD3
23Fu 1088A2
24HaikuC4
25JesseA6
26Jian Guo 328E5
27KagenC4
28KommuneG5
29Liquid LaundryE3
30Lost HeavenA4
31Sìchuān CitizenD3
32Spicy JointE3
33T8H2
6Drinking & Nightlife
34Bell BarG5
35Café del VolcánE4
36Café des StagiairesE4
37Dr WineD2
38El CóctelB4
39I Love ShanghaiG5
40Senator SaloonC4
41Speak LowG3
42Time PassageA4
3Entertainment
43Cotton ClubC4
44Shànghǎi Conservatory of MusicD4
45Shanghai Symphony Orchestra HallD4
7Shopping
46Comme MoiD3
47Cottage ShopB3
48Culture MattersC5
49Culture MattersA5
50Dòng LiángD2
51IAPM MallE3
52Lolo Love VintageB4
53OOAK Concept BoutiqueC2
54Pīlìngpālāng – Anfu LuB4
Shanghai CodeG5
55TasteG5
56Urban TribeB4
57YizidiH2
58Zen LifestoreC5
59Zhēnchálín TeaG5
8Information
60German ConsulateB5
oTiánzǐfángAREA
(田子坊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tianzifang.cn; Taikang Rd; 泰康路 mDapuqiao)
Tiánzǐfáng and Xīntiāndì are based on a similar idea – an entertainment complex housed within a warren of traditional lòngtáng (弄堂; alleyways) – but when it comes to genuine charm and vibrancy, Tiánzǐfáng is the one that delivers. You do need to wade through the souvenir stalls to get to the good stuff, but this net
work of design studios, cafes, bars and boutiques is the perfect antidote to Shànghǎi's oversized malls and intimidating skyscrapers. With some families still residing in neighbouring buildings, a community mood survives.
There are three main north–south lanes (Nos 210, 248 and 274) criss-crossed by irregular east–west alleyways, which makes exploration slightly disorienting and fun. Among the art galleries is Beaugeste (比极影像, Bǐjí Yǐngxiàng GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6466 9012; www.beaugeste-gallery.com; 5th fl, No 5, Lane 210, Taikang Rd; 泰康路210弄5号520室田子坊 h10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mDapuqiao), a forward-thinking photography gallery (only open at the weekends, by appointment at other times). The real activity is shopping, and the recent explosion of creative start-ups makes for some interesting finds, from vintage spectacle frames at Shanghai Code (上海密码, Shànghǎi Mìmǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 9, Lane 274, Taikang Rd, Tiánzǐfáng; 泰康路274弄9号田子坊 h1-9pm; mDapuqiao) and cool homewares at concept store Taste ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.taste-shop.com; Rm 105, Bldg 3, 210 Taikang Rd; 泰康路210号150室3l号楼 h12.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun; mDapuqiao), to hand-wrapped pǔ'ěr teas from Zhēnchálín. Elsewhere, a growing band of cool cafes, restaurants and bars, such as Kommune (公社, Gōngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6466 2416; www.kommune.me; Tiánzǐfáng, The Yard, No 7, Lane 210, Taikang Rd; 泰康路210弄7号田子坊 meals from ¥77; h9am-midnight; W; mDapuqiao Rd), East ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6467 0100; www.east-eatery.com; Tiánzǐfáng, No 39, Lane 155, Middle Jianguo Rd; 建国中路155弄39号田子坊 bao 1/3 pieces ¥12/30, dishes from ¥50; h11am-11pm; W; mDapuqiao Rd), Bell Bar and I Love Shanghai (我爱上海, Wǒ Ài Shànghǎi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lane 1, 248 Taikang Rd; 泰康路248弄田子坊内1号后门 h6pm-late; mDapuqiao), can sort out meals and drinks and help take the weight off your feet.
oXīntiāndìAREA
(新天地 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xintiandi.com; 2 blocks btwn Taicang, Zizhong, Madang & South Huangpi Rds; 太仓路与马当路路口 mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi)
With its own namesake metro station, Xīntiāndì has been a Shànghǎi icon for a decade or more. An upscale entertainment and shopping complex modelled on traditional alleyway (lòngtáng) homes, this was the first development in the city to prove that historical architecture makes big commercial sense. Elsewhere that might sound like a no-brainer, but in 21st-century China, where bulldozers are always on standby, it came as quite a revelation.
Well-heeled shoppers and alfresco diners keep things lively until late, and if you’re looking for a memorable meal or to browse through some of Shànghǎi’s more fashionable boutiques, you’re in the right spot. The heart of the complex, divided into a pedestrianised north and south block, consists of largely rebuilt traditional shíkùmén houses, brought bang up-to-date with a stylish modern spin. But while the layout suggests a flavour of yesteryear, you should not expect much in the cultural realm. Xīntiāndì doesn’t deliver any of the lived-in charm of Tiánzǐfáng or the creaking, rickety simplicity of the Old Town. Beyond two worthwhile sights – the Shíkùmén Open House Museum (石库门屋里厢, Shíkùmén Wūlǐxiāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xīntiāndì North Block, Bldg 25; 太仓路181弄新天地北里25号楼 adult/child ¥20/10; h10.30am-10.30pm; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi) and the Site of the 1st National Congress of the CCP (中共一大会址纪念馆, Zhōnggòng Yīdàhuìzhǐ Jìniànguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xīntiāndì North Block, 76 Xingye Rd; 兴业路76号 h9am-5pm; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi) – it’s best for strolling the prettified alleyways and enjoying a summer evening over drinks or a meal.
Ren Weiyin Art GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.renweiyinart.com; Bldg 3, Lane 210, Tiánzǐfáng; 泰康路210弄 h10am-6pm; mDapuqiao)F
This gallery exhibits around 150 paintings by one of China's most well-known post-impressionists, Ren Weiyin. In 1961 his studio was forcibly closed and he was sent to a forced labour camp. He spent most of his life as a shoe repairman. His daughter opened this gallery to showcase her father's work and life.
Liúli China MuseumMUSEUM
(琉璃艺术博物馆, Liúli Yìshù Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6461 3189; www.liulichinamuseum.com; 25 Taikang Rd; 泰康路25号 adult/child under 18yr ¥20/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mDapuqiao)
Founded by Taiwanese artists Loretta Yang and Chang Yi, the Liúli China Museum is dedicated to the art of glass sculpture (pâte de verre or lost-wax casting). Peruse the collection of ancient artefacts – some of which date back more than 2000 years – to admire the early artisanship of pieces such as earrings, belt buckles and even a Tang dynasty crystal wéiqí (go) set.
Shànghǎi Arts & Crafts MuseumMUSEUM
(上海工艺美术博物馆, Shànghǎi Gōngyì Měishù Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6431 4074; www.shgmb.com; 79 Fenyang Rd; 汾阳路79路 ¥8; h9am-5pm, last entry 4pm; mChangshu Rd)
Repositioned as a museum, this arts and crafts institute displays traditional crafts such as needlepoint embroidery, paper cutting, lacquer work, jade cutting and lantern making. Watch traditional crafts being performed live by craftspeople and admire the wonderful exhibits, from jade, to ivory to ink stones and beyond. The 1905 building itself is a highlight, once serving as the residence for Chen Yi, Shànghǎi’s first mayor after the founding of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP).
MAOIST PROPAGANDA IN SHàNGHǎI
Propaganda Poster Art CentreGALLERY
(宣传画年画艺术中心, Xuānchuánhuà Niánhuà Yìshù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6211 1845; www.shanghaipropagandaart.com; Room B-OC, President Mansion, 868 Huashan Rd; 华山路868号B-0C室 ¥20; h10am-5pm; mShanghai Library)
If phalanxes of red tractors, bumper harvests, muscled peasants and lantern-jawed proletariats fire you up, this small gallery in the bowels of a residential block should intoxicate. The collection of original posters from the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s – the golden age of Maoist poster production – will have you weak-kneed at the cartoon world of anti-US defiance. The centre divides into a showroom and a shop selling posters and postcards.
Jìng’ān 静安
From its sacred Buddhist temples and heritage architecture to its edgy arts scene and modern museums, Jìng’ān has a strong case for being Shànghǎi's most interesting neighbourhood for sightseeing.
Shànghǎi Railway Station
1Top Sights
1Jade Buddha TempleA3
2M50B2
1Sights
Antenna SpaceB2
Chronus Art CenterB2
Fish StudioB2
island6B2
Sānzǐ ArtB2
ShanghARTB2
3The GalleryB2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
DN ClubB2
Transport
4Advance Train Ticket Office (Hengfeng Rd)C2
5Bus 5 to Pǔdōng International AirportC2
6Bus 941 to Hóngqiáo AirportC2
7Shànghǎi Long-Distance Bus StationC1
8Shànghǎi Railway StationC2
oM50GALLERY
(M50创意产业集聚区, M50 Chuàngyì Chǎnyè Jíjùqū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.m50.com.cn/en; 50 Moganshan Rd; 莫干山路50号 mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shànghǎi Railway Station, exit 3)F
Shànghǎi may be known for its glitz and glamour, but it's got an edgy subculture, too. The industrial M50 art complex is one prime example, where galleries have set up in disused factories and cotton mills, utilising the vast space to showcase contemporary Chinese emerging and established artists. There's a lot to see, so plan to spend half a day poking around the site.
It's not just galleries either – there's some great street art en route as you pass the graffiti-splashed, mural-decorated walls along gritty Moganshan Rd.
The most established galleries here include ShanghART (香格纳画廊; Xiānggénà Huàláng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6359 3923; www.shanghartgallery.com; Bldg 16 & 18, 50 Moganshan Rd; M50创意产业16和18号楼 h10am-6pm; mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shanghai Railway Station, exit 3) with a big, dr
amatic space showcasing the work of some of the 40 artists it represents. The forward-thinking, provocative and downright entertaining island6 (六岛; Liù Dǎo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6227 7856; www.island6.org; Bldg 6, 50 Moganshan Rd; 莫干山路50号 h10am-7pm daily) focuses on collaborative works created in a studio behind the gallery; it has a smaller gallery on the 1st floor of Building Seven. Other notable galleries include Sanzi Art (饊子艺术; Sānzǐ Yìshù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sanziart.com; Room 4a-107, 50 Moganshan Rd; 莫干山路50号4a－107房间 h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shanghai Railway Station, exit 3), featuring the work of notable Shànghǎi artist Sanzi, and Yu Nancheng's Fish Studio (魚工作室, Yú Gōngzuò Shì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6227 5102; www.yunancheng.com; Bldg 4, Room B-101, 50 Moganshan Rd; 莫干山路50号4号楼房间B- 101 h10.30am-5.30pm; mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shanghai Railway Station, exit 3) – both local artists of international repute. For new media by avant-garde local and foreign artists try Antenna Space (天线空间, Tiānxiàn Kōngjiān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6256 0182; www.antenna-space.com/en; Bldg 17, 50 Moganshan Rd; 莫干山路50号17号楼202 h11am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shanghai Railway Station, exit 3) or Chronus Art Center (CAC, 新时线媒体艺术中心, Xīn Shíjiān Méitǐ Yìshù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5271 5789; www.chronusartcenter.org; Bldg 18, 50 Moganshan Rd; 莫干山路50号18号楼 h11am-6pm Wed-Sun; mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shanghai Railway Station, exit 3). Across the road is the Gallery (画廊; Huàláng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thegallery.com.cn; 87 Moganshan Rd; 莫干山路87号 h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shanghai Railway Station, exit 3), another innovative art collective featuring Chinese contemporary art and photography. Budding photographers should absolutely pop into DN Club (当年; Dāngnián MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6276 9657; Room 107, Bldg 17, 50 Moganshan Rd; M50创意产业17号楼107室 course ¥380; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mLine 3, 4 to Zhongtan Rd, exit 5; Line 1, 3, 4 to Shanghai Railway Station, exit 3), with its classes using vintage SLRs and a dark room for developing prints.