Great MosqueMOSQUE
(清真大寺, Qīngzhēn Dàsì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huajue Xiang, 化觉巷 Mar-Nov ¥25, Dec-Feb ¥15, Muslims free; h8am-7.30pm Mar-Nov, to 5.30pm Dec-Feb; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
Bigger than many temples in China, the Great Mosque is a gorgeous blend of Chinese and Islamic architecture and one of the most fascinating sacred sites in the land. The present buildings are mostly Ming and Qing, though the mosque was founded in the 8th century. Arab influences extend from the central minaret (cleverly disguised as a stumpy pagoda) to the enormous turquoise-roofed Prayer Hall (not open to visitors) at the back of the complex, dating to the Ming dynasty.
Guǎngrén TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(广仁寺, Guǎngrén Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Guangren Si Lu, 广仁寺路 ¥20; h8am-5.30pm; mSajinqiao or Yuxiangmen)
The sole Tibetan Buddhist temple in the entire province, Guǎngrén Temple originally dates to the early 18th century, but was largely rebuilt in the 20th century. As a sacred Tibetan Buddhist place of worship, the temple hums with mystery and spiritual energy. Perhaps the most valuable object in the temple resides in the final hall, a golden representation of Sakyamuni that rests upon a Tang dynasty pedestal. There is only one other like it, housed at the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa.
Forest of Stelae MuseumMUSEUM
(碑林博物馆, Bēilín Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.beilin-museum.com; 15 Sanxue Jie, 三学街15号 Mar-Nov ¥75, Dec-Feb ¥50; h8am-6.45pm Mar-Nov, to 5.45pm Dec-Feb, last admission 45min before closing)
Housed in Xī’ān’s Confucius Temple, this museum holds more than 1000 stone stelae (inscribed tablets), including the nine Confucian classics and some exemplary calligraphy. The highlight is the fantastic sculpture gallery (across from the gift shop), where animal guardians from the Tang dynasty, pictorial tomb stones and Buddhist statuary muster together. To reach the museum, follow Shuyuan Xiang east from the South Gate.
The second gallery holds a Nestorian tablet (AD 781), the earliest recorded account of Christianity in China. (The Nestorians professed that Christ was both human and divine, for which they were booted out of the Church in 431.) The fourth gallery displays a collection of ancient maps and portraits, and rubbings (copies) are made here, an absorbing process to observe.
Bell TowerHISTORIC SITE
(钟楼, Zhōng Lóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥35, combined Drum Tower ticket ¥50; h8.30am-9.30pm Mar-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Feb, last admission 30min before closing)
Occupying a central place at the frantic intersection of Xi Dajie, Dong Dajie, Bei Dajie and Nan Dajie, the domineering form of the Bell Tower originally housed a huge bell that was rung sonorously at dawn. Initially standing two blocks to the west, it dates from the 14th century and was later rebuilt in the 1700s. Musical performances are held inside from 9am to 11.30am and 2.30pm to 5.30pm. It is entered through the underpass on the north side.
Drum TowerHISTORIC SITE
(鼓楼, Gǔ Lóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beiyuanmen; ¥35, combined Bell Tower ticket ¥50; h8.30am-9.30pm Mar-Oct, to 6.30pm Nov-Feb, last admission 30min before closing; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
While the Bell Tower originally held a bell that was rung at dawn, the Drum Tower, standing at the foot of the smoky and uproarious street of Beiyuanmen, marked nightfall. It similarly dates from the 14th century and was later rebuilt in the 1700s. Musical performances are held inside from 9am to 11.30am and 2.30pm to 5.30pm. Close by, a covered market sells all manner of haggle-worthy goods for souvenirs and gift-giving, leading to the magnificent Great Mosque.
Xī'āN IN TWO DAYS
Steal a lead on the crowds and catch an early bus to the Army of Terracotta Warriors before returning to Xī'ān for lunch and snacking your way through the Muslim Quarter. Explore the Great Mosque but give yourself enough time to walk or cycle around the Xī'ān City Walls before sundown.
On day two, start your day with a history lesson at the Shaanxi History Museum before visiting the nearby Big Goose Pagoda. Have lunch at Hǎiróng Guōtiēdiàn, followed by fathoming the mysteries of the Tibetan Buddhist Guǎngrén Temple. Round off the day with drinks at King Garden Bar.
Outside the City Walls
oBig Goose PagodaBUDDHIST PAGODA
(大雁塔, Dàyàn Tǎ GOOGLE MAP ; Yanta Nanlu, 雁塔南路 grounds ¥50, pagoda ¥40; h8am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar)
This pagoda, Xī’ān’s most famous landmark, 4km southeast of the South Gate and formerly within the old (and huge) Tang dynasty city wall, dominates the surrounding modern buildings. One of China’s best examples of a Tang-style pagoda (squarish rather than round), it was completed in AD 652 to house Buddhist sutras brought back from India by the monk Xuan Zang. His travels inspired one of the best-known works of Chinese literature, Journey to the West.
Xuan spent the last 19 years of his life translating scriptures with a crack team of linguist monks; many of these translations are still used today.
The brick Tang pagoda style is not seen in many parts of China, although other examples do exist, in Héběi province's Zhèngdìng, for example. Surrounding the Big Goose Pagoda is Dà Cí’ēn Temple (大慈恩寺, Dàcí’ēn Sì), one of the largest temples in Tang dynasty Cháng’ān. The buildings today date from the Qing dynasty. To the south of the pagoda is an open-air mall of shops, galleries, restaurants and public art; well worth a wander.
Bus 610 from the Bell Tower and bus 609 from the South Gate drop you at the pagoda square; the entrance is on the south side. An evening fountain show is held on the square.
Little Goose PagodaBUDDHIST PAGODA
(小雁塔, Xiǎoyàn Tǎ GOOGLE MAP ; grounds free, pagoda ¥30; h8.30am-7pm Wed-Mon; mNanshaomen)
Little Goose Pagoda is in the pleasant grounds of Jiànfú Temple. Its top was shaken off by an earthquake in the middle of the 16th century, but the rest of the 43m-high structure is intact.
Jiànfú Temple was built in AD 684 to bless the afterlife of the late Emperor Gaozong. The pagoda, a rather delicate building of 15 progressively smaller tiers, was built from AD 707–709 and housed Buddhist scriptures brought back from India by the pilgrim Yi Jing.
Admission to the grounds is free but climbing up the pagoda requires a ¥30 ticket.
Shaanxi History MuseumMUSEUM
(陕西历史博物馆, Shǎnxī Lìshǐ Bówùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; 91 Xiaozhai Donglu, 小寨东路91号 h8.30am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, last admission 4.30pm, 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, last admission 4pm)F
This museum naturally overlaps with Xī’ān’s surrounding sights but makes for a comprehensive stroll through ancient Cháng’ān. Most exhibits offer illuminating explanations in English. Don't miss the four original terracotta warrior statues on the ground floor. Go early and expect to queue for at least 30 minutes. In the Sui and Tang section, unique murals depict a polo match, and you'll find a series of painted pottery figurines with elaborate hairstyles and dress, including several bearded foreigners, musicians and braying camels.
The number of visitors is limited to 4000 per day (2500 tickets are distributed in the morning starting at 8.30am and another 1500 in the afternoon starting at 1.30pm). Bring your passport to claim your free ticket. Take bus 610 from the Bell Tower or bus 701 from the South Gate.
Xī’ān MuseumMUSEUM
(西安博物馆, Xī’ān Bówùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8780 3591; www.xabwy.com; 72 Youyi Xilu, 友谊西路72号 h9am-5pm Wed-Mon; mNanshaomen)F
Housed in the pleasant grounds of the Jiànfú Temple is this museum featuring relics unearthed in Xī’ān over the years. There are some exquisite ceramics from the Han dynasty, as well as figurines, an exhibition of Ming-dynasty seals and jade artefacts. Don’t miss the basement, where a large-scale model of ancient Xī’ān gives a good sense of the place in its former pomp and glory.
Temple of the Eight ImmortalsTAOIST SITE
(八仙庵, Bāxiān Ān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yongle Lu, 永乐路 ¥3; h7.30am-5.30pm Mar-Nov, 8am-5pm Dec-Feb; mChaoyangmen)
Xī’ān’s largest Taoist temple dates to
the Song dynasty and is still an active place of worship. Supposedly built on the site of an ancient wine shop, it was constructed to protect against subterranean divine thunder. Scenes from Taoist mythology are painted around the courtyard. Empress Cixi, the mother of the last emperor, stayed here in 1901 after fleeing Běijīng during the Boxer Rebellion. Bus 502 runs close by the temple (eastbound from Xi Xinjie).
The small antique market opposite is busiest on Sunday and Wednesday.
4Sleeping
If you’re arriving by air and have not yet booked accommodation, keep in mind that touts at the shuttle-bus drop-off points may get you discounted rooms at a wide selection of hotels.
All hostels in the city offer similar services, including bike hire, wi-fi, laundry, restaurant and travel services. Ask about free pick-up from the train station and book ahead at popular places. In low season (January to March) you can usually get 20% off at hostels.
oHàn Táng InnHOSTEL$
(汉唐驿, Hàntáng Yì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8728 7772, 029 8726 6762; www.itisxian.com; 7 Nanchang Xiang, 南长巷7号 dm ¥40-50, s & d ¥160-200; naiW; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
This very popular hostel has friendly and helpful staff – some of the best in China – and loads of information and tours of Xī’ān. The dorms are compact but clean and have en suite bathrooms. There’s a pleasant rooftop terrace with loads of potted plants and trees, ping-pong table (with lessons from a top coach) and even a sauna!
It’s tucked down a small and quiet alley off Nanxin Jie; look for the two terracotta warriors standing guard outside. Activities are organised too, including free dumplings every Friday night. There's a pool-table room and breakfasts are a knockout. Take bus 603 from the train station and get off at Xincheng Guangchang (新城广场), from where it's a short five-minute walk.
Sahara Youth InnHOSTEL$
(撒哈拉青年客栈, Sāhālā Qīngnián Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8728 7631; http://site.douban.com/219529; 180 Beiyuanmen, 北院门180号 dm ¥30-60, tw ¥158; W; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
You’d think staying smack bang in the Muslim Quarter would be noisy, but Sahara is set well back around a quiet Chinese courtyard in a lovely Qing-dynasty building replete with traditional accents. The beds are firm but rooms are clean and peaceful. You can even see the action outside from the rooftop. You'll be tripping over cats, too.
Shūyuàn Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(书院青年旅舍, Shūyuàn Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8728 0092; 2 Shuncheng Nanlu Xiduan, 南门里顺城南路西段2号 dm ¥40-60, s/d ¥160/180; aiW; mYongningmen)
The longest-running hostel in Xī’ān, this converted residence has three lovely courtyards, and a welcoming and enjoyable atmosphere. The cafe has a pizza oven and serves excellent food, and the lively basement bar (guests get a free beer voucher) is a riot in the evenings. Rooms are simple but clean, the staff is excellent and the location a winner.
Xiāngzǐmén Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(湘子门国际青年旅舍, Xiāngzǐmén Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 6286 7888; www.yhaxian.com; 16 Xiangzimiao Jie, 南门里湘子庙街16号 dm/s/tr ¥50/220/240, d ¥150-220; aiW; mYongningmen)
Set around a series of interconnected courtyards, this hostel is a big, sprawling place with an ever-busy pub known for its smoky and noisy atmosphere. Rooms are clean, modern and warm in winter, but make sure to avoid the stuffy windowless basement rooms. There's a lovely courtyard for a coffee where a caged yellow bird sings.
Alley Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(秦城小巷客站, Qǐnchéng Xiǎoxiàng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8732 4011; 33 Xicang Nanxiang, Miaohou Jie, 庙后街西仓南巷33号 dm ¥35-40, s ¥120, d ¥140-240; aW)
A reasonable alternative if the other hostels are full, this place is buried away down an alley in the Muslim Quarter. Dorms and doubles are fine and staff are helpful, but the design is a bit sterile, despite the location. It can get busy and noisy outside on market days (Thursday and Sunday).
oHàn Táng HouseHOSTEL$$
(汉唐驿青年旅舍, Hàntáng Yì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8738 9765; www.hantanghouse.com; 32 Nanchang Xiang, 南长巷32号 hdm/s/d/tr ¥60/168/268/338; naiW; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
A hybrid of sorts, this place has dorms and the vibe of a youth hostel but the look and feel of a three-star hotel. The smart rooms are decked out with high-quality dark-wood furnishings, slab floors and comfortable beds, but lighting is a bit gloomy. The downstairs lobby area is fun and staff are friendly and helpful. Washing is ¥12 per kilo.
There's also a great cafe with good Western food, which converts to a fun bar with live music at night (the singing finishes early). Take bus 603 from the train station and get off at Xincheng Guangchang (新城广场), from where it's a short five-minute walk.
Jano’s BackpackersHOSTEL$$
(杰诺庭院背包旅舍, Jíenuò Tínyuàn Beībāo Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8725 6656; www.xian-backpackers.com; 69 Shuncheng Nanlu Zhongduan, South Gate, 南门顺城南路中段69号 dm ¥50-60, d ¥150-300, f ¥320-420; aiW; mYongningmen)
Set in a little faux hútòng (narrow alleyway) with artist galleries and cafes nearby, Jano’s is a pleasant place to escape bustling Xī’ān (though street-facing rooms get pub noise). Rooms are well-maintained and decorated in traditional style, including some with kang (heated beds). There's a lovely courtyard and the family rooms with mezzanine are excellent. Staff speak English.
There's a spacious cellar too, with table football.
oBell Tower HotelHOTEL$$$
(西安钟楼饭店, Xī’ān Zhōnglóu Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8760 0000; www.belltowerhtl.com; 110 Nan Dajie, 南大街110号 d ¥900-1200, ste ¥1800-2800, incl breakfast; ai; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
Right by the Bell Tower in the centre of downtown, this decent 300-plus-room, four-star hotel has been in business for more than three decades. The expansive foyer is all marble, gloss and the occasional dash of kitsch, while rooms are comfortable and good-looking, and staff are pleasant and welcoming. The pricier ¥1200 rooms look directly onto the Bell Tower.
It has low-season discounts of up to 30%.
SofitelHOTEL$$$
(索菲特人民大厦, Suǒfēitè Rénmín Dàshà MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8792 8888; www.sofitel.com; 319 Dong Xinjie, 东新街319号 d/ste ¥1760/3150; naWs; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
Grandly housed, the Sofitel is a fine choice, with a soothing, hushed atmosphere and that crucial central location. Rooms are elegant and comfortable, with top-notch bathrooms, while restaurants are excellent and service is professional and courteous. Reception is in the east wing. Room rates change daily, so you can score a deal when business is slow.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following prices are for a double room with private bath or shower room.
Category Cost
$ less than ¥190
$$ ¥190–¥400
$$$ more than ¥400
EATING
The following prices are for the cost of a main dish.
Category Cost
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥60
$$$ more than ¥60
5Eating
Xī'ān has a wide range of restaurants serving cuisine from across China and the world. The Muslim Quarter is an excellent place for snacking, while a good street to wander for a selection of more typically Chinese restaurants is Dongmutou Shi, east of Nan Dajie. All the hostels serve Western breakfasts and meals with varying degrees of success.
oMǎ Hóng Xiǎochǎo PàomóguǎnCHINESE ISLAMIC$
(马洪小炒泡馍馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %133 5918 5583; 46 Hongbu Jie, 红埠街46号 ¥17; mBei Da Jie)
A superb choice for lamb or beef pàomó; you need to grab a seat before 11am, otherwise it's all elbows. Pay for your dish, take your seat and then break the round bread into a myriad tiny pieces (they must be small) to drop into the bowl, and wait for your meat broth to arrive, splashed over the crumbs
for a filling and fine meal.
Ask either for (清淡; qīngdàn) or spicy (辣; là).
Hǎiróng GuōtiēdiànDUMPLINGS$
(海荣锅贴店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 67 Zhubashi, 竹笆市67号 mains from ¥12; h10.30am-10pm)
A civilised and restful choice, this place specialises in guōtiē (锅贴) 'pot-sticker' fried dumplings and they are simply delicious. There's six different types to choose from, including a vegetarian choice. There are other dishes on the menu too, including the lovely tiáozi ròu (条子肉; ¥32), soft chunks of pork that you squeeze into white buns to consume together.
Dumpling fillings include pork and shrimp (大肉鲜虾馅; dàròu xiānxiāxiàn) and vegetable and egg (野菜鸡蛋馅; yěcàijīdànxiàn). There are 10 branches in town.
Sānjiěmèi JiǎoziDUMPLINGS$
(三姐妹饺子, Three Sisters Dumplings MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8725 2129; 140 Dongmutou Shi, 东木头市140号 dumplings from ¥14; h10.30am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm)
Weary diners with dumpling fatigue will be inspired by the rustic two-room Three Sisters, with its well-done twist on classics. Try succulent carrot and lamb dumplings blanketed in crisp peanuts and fried chives. Or for vegetarians, the winning texture of dry and marinated tofu (yes, two types) with the zing of crunchy cilantro and a lashing of chilli.
Lonely Planet China Page 76
