There's a whole range of other dishes too, including the tangy, sour, cabbage fish soup (酸菜鱼; sāncàiyú) and the extremely spicy black-pepper beef (黑胡椒牛柳; hēihújiāo niúliu), which will put hairs on your chest. Look for the words 'Restaurant of China' on the outside.
Dǐng Dǐng XiāngCHINESE$
(顶顶香 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 130 Nanyuanmen, 南院门130号 dishes ¥18-58; h10am-10pm; v)
A clean cafe atmosphere spread over four floors with aspirational snaps of Europe in scattered picture frames on the walls. A lively well-dressed crowd peers down onto the street, drinking beer and eating Chinese classics such as hotpots with generous servings. The extensive English picture menu includes excellent veg options.
Muslim Family RestaurantCHINESE ISLAMIC$
(回文人家, Huiwen Renjia MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beiyuanmen, 北院门 dishes ¥10-98; h9am-10.30pm; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
Right on Beiyuanmen in the heart of the Muslim Quarter, this smart establishment serves classic Muslim dishes such as ròujiāmó (beef in flat bread; ¥15), lamb kebabs (¥10 each), beef- or lamb-filled xiàbǐng (fried, crispy bread; ¥18 to ¥20), dumplings (¥15 to ¥18) and lovely grilled golden needle mushrooms (¥18).
There’s no English sign so look for the veil-adorned female waiting staff in the doorway.
Lǎo Sūn JiāCHINESE$$
(老孙家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8240 3205; 5th fl, 364 Dong Dajie, 东大街364号5层 dishes ¥12-49; h8am-9.30pm; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
The speciality dish at one of Xī’ān’s most famous restaurants (with a 100-year-plus history) is steaming bowls of yángròu pàomó. The catch is that the diner is responsible for ripping up the bread before the chefs add the soup. Many other cold and hot dishes are on display, so just point if you don’t speak Chinese.
It’s located on the 5th floor of a large black glass building.
MUSLIM QUARTER EATS
Hit the Muslim Quarter for tasty eating in Xī’ān. Common dishes here are májiàng liángpí (麻酱凉皮; cold noodles in sesame sauce), fěnzhēngròu (粉蒸肉; chopped mutton fried in a wok with ground wheat), the ‘Chinese hamburger’ ròujiāmó (肉夹馍; fried pork or beef in pitta bread, sometimes with green peppers and cumin), càijiāmó (菜夹馍; the vegetarian version of ròujiāmó) and the ubiquitous ròuchuàn (肉串; kebabs).
Best of all is the delicious yángròu pàomó (羊肉泡馍), a soup dish that involves crumbling a flat loaf of bread into a bowl and adding noodles, mutton and broth. You can also pick up mouth-watering desserts such as huāshēnggāo (花生糕; peanut cakes) and shìbǐng (柿饼; dried persimmons), which can be found at the market or in Muslim Quarter shops.
The food market around Xiyangshi Jie (西羊市街) is excellent for everything from lamb skewers to walnuts, cakes, pomegranate juice, flatbreads of all sorts, fried potatoes, fragrant tofu and much more.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Xī’ān’s nightlife options range from bars and clubs to cheesy but popular tourist shows.
A main bar strip is near the South Gate on leafy Defu Xiang – one of the most pleasant parts of Xī’ān to stroll through by day.
Clubs get going early in Xī’ān. They are free to get into, but expect to pay at least ¥30 for a beer. Most are located along or off Nan Dajie.
ParkQinBAR
(秦吧, Qǐnbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Shuncheng Nanlu Xiduan; mYongningmen)
In the basement bowels of the Shūyuàn Youth Hostel, this music bar is a tip-top riot and a fun night out. Staff are excellent and very mindful: look for lovely Kathy with her perfect English. It has lots of coloured terracotta warrior statues, blues music, balloons and delicious savoury snacks delivered to your table.
Jamaica BlueBAR
(蓝色牙买加, Lánsè Yámǎijiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanchang Xiang; mZhonglou (Bell Tower))
Doubling as a good restaurant, enterprising Jamaica Blue gets a daily workout come sundown as a fine and sociable bar, with live crooning nightly at around 9pm. Moreish, finger-lickin' savoury snacks are delivered free to tables. The layout is a squarish mezzanine, looking down into the lobby of a youth hostel below. Staff are polite and efficient.
The singing finishes at around 11pm to allow guests in the attached hostel to get some kip.
King Garden BarBAR
(老城根, Lǎo Chénggēn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8797 3366; h7pm-2am; W; mYuxiangmen)
Picturesquely located just outside the gate of Yuxiang Men, this slick bar is a cool spot to hang out with Xī'ān's high rollers. With illuminated bar top, snappily attired bar staff, subdued lights and chill-out sounds, the setting is sharp. A lovely outside garden area awaits for the warmer months. A small Tsingtao beer is ¥55, so it's not cheap.
3Entertainment
Xī’ān has a number of dinner-dance shows, which are normally packed with tour groups; reservations are recommended. They can be fun if you’re in the mood for a bit of kitsch.
Tang DynastyLIVE PERFORMANCE
(唐乐宫, Tángyuè Gōng GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8782 2222; www.xiantangdynasty.com; 75 Chang’an Beilu, 长安北路75号 performance with/without dinner ¥500/220)
The most famous dinner theatre in the city stages an over-the-top spectacle with Vegas-style costumes, traditional dance, live music and singing. It’s dubbed into English. Book online for discounts.
Buses can take you to the theatre 1.5km directly south of the South Gate, or walk five minutes south of South Shaomen metro.
Shaanxi Grand Opera HouseLIVE PERFORMANCE
(陕歌大剧院, Shǎngē Dàjùyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8785 3295; 165 Wenyi Beilu, 文艺北路165号 performance with/without dinner ¥298/198)
Also known as the Tang Palace Dance Show, this is cheaper and less flashy than other dinner-dance shows in town. Wenyi Lu starts south of the city walls. You can get a better price by buying your ticket through a reputable hostel or hotel.
Fountain & Music ShowLIVE MUSIC
( GOOGLE MAP ; Dayan Ta Bei Guangchang, 大雁塔北广场 h9pm Mar-Nov, 8pm Dec-Feb)
Some travellers enjoy spending the evening at the free fountain and music show on Big Goose Pagoda Sq; it’s the largest such ‘musical fountain’ in Asia. Try to get here around 20 minutes early for a good spot.
7Shopping
Stay in Xī’ān for a couple of days and you’ll be offered enough sets of miniature Terracotta Warriors to form your own army. A good place to search for gifts is the Muslim Quarter, where prices are generally cheaper than elsewhere.
Xīyáng MarketMARKET
(西羊市, Xīyáng Shì MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This narrow alley running north of the Great Mosque is a great central stop for souvenirs. With vocal vendors, bargaining is a way of life here. You'll get everything from Terracotta Warriors to shadow puppets, lanterns, tea ware, 'antiques', jade, T-shirts, paintings, Cultural Revolution memorabilia and whatnot. Quality varies a lot, so look for defects, but bargains can be had.
Shuyuan XiangFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(书院巷, Shūyuàn Xiàng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mYongningmen)
Near the South Gate is the Qing-style Shuyuan Xiang, the main tree-lined strip for art supplies, paintings, calligraphy, paper cuts, brushes and fake rubbings from the Forest of Stelae Museum.
Temple of the Eight Immortals Antique MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mChaoyangmen)
A small antique market sells its wares by the Temple of the Eight Immortals on Sunday and Wednesday mornings.
Northwest Antique MarketMARKET
(西北古玩城, Xīběi Gǔwán Chéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dong Xinjie (Shuncheng Donglu), 东新街 (顺城东路北段) h10am-5.30pm; mChaoyangmen)
Serious shoppers can visit the Northwest Antique Market, by Zhongshan Gate. This three-storey warren of shops selling jade, seals, antiques and Mao memorabilia sees far fewer foreign faces than the Muslim Quarter. Dozing street sellers also display their wares south along Shuncheng Donglu (顺城东路北段). As with everywhere, however, examine ev
erything with a critical eye.
8Information
Pick up a copy of the widely available Xi’an Traffic & Tourist Map (¥12), a bilingual publication with listings and bus routes. It’s available at the airport and some bookshops. Chinese-language maps with the bus routes are sold on the street for ¥5 to ¥6. Shūyuàn Youth Hostel has useful free maps with key bus routes. The English-language magazine Xianese (www.xianease.com) is available at some hotels and restaurants that cater to tourists.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Bei Dajie; h8am-8pm)
Right across from the Bell Tower; Western Union is here too.
Public Security Bureau Exit-Entry Administration BureauPOLICE
(公安局出入境管理处, Gōng’ānjú Chūrùjìng Guǎnlǐchù GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Keji Lu; h8.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri)
This is on the southeast corner of Xixie 7 Lu. Visa extensions take five working days. To get here from the Bell Tower, take bus K205 and get off at Xixie 7 Lu.
Dangers & Annoyances
The air in Xī'ān can be highly polluted, so bear this in mind if you suffer from breathing problems or allergies.
If choosing a tour to the surrounding sights, ensure there aren't any shops, commercial outlets or workshops included on the route; you may feel pressured into buying souvenirs or handicrafts.
Emergency
In an emergency call 120.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Like everywhere in China, but especially more in the conservative north, the gay and lesbian scene in town is low-key, low-profile and subtle. For a list of gay and lesbian spots in town, see www.utopia-asia.com/xianbars.htm.
Internet Access
All hostels and hotels offer wi-fi access, as do many restaurants, bars and cafes. Note that wi-fi signals in hostels can vary from room to room, so it can be a good idea to test out the room first.
Medical Services
Lianbang DentalDENTIST
(联邦口腔, Liánbāng Kǒuqiāng GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8360 0666; 9th fl, Chaoyang Xinshijie, Changle Xilu, 长乐西路朝阳新世界9层 mChaoyangmen)
This very friendly and professional dental practice is hard-working and has English-speaking staff. Take exit A from the metro station.
Xī'ān Central HospitalHOSPITAL
(西安市中心医院, Xī'ān Shì Zhōngxīn Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; www.xaszxyy.com; 161 Xi Wulu, 西五路161号 mBei Da Jie)
Centrally located and a short walk from Bei Da Jie metro station.
Money
ATMATM
(自动柜员机, Zìdòng Guìyuánjī GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr)
You won't find it hard to locate usable ATMs. When in doubt, try the southeast corner of the Bell Tower intersection.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 29 Nan Dajie, 南大街29号 h8am-6pm)
For ATMs and changing cash.
Opening Hours
Opening hours may vary slightly through the year. We've provided high-season opening hours; hours will generally decrease in the low and shoulder seasons. Some museums and sights may be shut either on a Monday or a Tuesday.
ABanks 9am–5pm Monday to Friday, and sometimes Saturday and Sunday
ABars 7pm to late
ARestaurants 9am–10pm, sometimes closed 2pm–5pm
AShops 10am–10pm
ATemples Open early, from 7am or 8am to around 6pm or 7pm
Tourist Information
Staffed by English speakers, Hàn Táng House, Hàn Táng Inn and the Shūyuàn Youth Hostel are excellent and resourceful sources of impartial travel information for visitors.
The China International Travel Service (CITS) is really only useful for getting people on tours. You're unlikely to be offered independent advice here as it is purely a commercially driven operation. It has two branches.
CITS (CITS; 中国国际旅行社; Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; www.cits.net; 2nd fl, Bell Tower Hotel, 110 Nan Dajie; 南大街二楼110号 h8am-8pm)
CITS (CITS; 中国国际旅行社; Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; www.chinabravo.com; 48 Chang’an Beilu; 长安北路48号 h8am-9pm)
Travel with Children
As an historic city with few attractions for children, Xī'ān can be a challenge for parents. The metro has made getting around town less of a challenge for parents with kids in tow, so use it as much as you can. Prams can be navigated down the road with relative ease. More and more restaurants come with baby chairs, but these can still be hard to find. Baby change facilities will be hard to find in restaurants but easier to find in department stores.
Children may find the full-on Terracotta Warrior history tour rather dull, but may enjoy walking around the Xī'ān City Walls or exploring the sights, sounds and aromas of the Muslim Quarter. Consider a side trip to Huá Shān for athletic teenagers keen to burn off calories and tick off some spectacular views.
Travellers with Disabilities
As with most cities in China, Xī'ān is not a very easy city to navigate for those with mobility problems. Pavements frequently have high kerbs and may be littered with obstacles, especially along the smaller back alleys and side streets. Some metro stations have lifts, but not all, and braille is widely used.
The Army of the Terracotta Warriors is generally quite accessible, although not everywhere at the site. The Xī'ān City Walls are usually not accessible to those in wheelchairs. Four- and five-star hotels are far better equipped to deal with travellers with disabilities than three-star hotels or hostels.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Xī’ān’s Xiányáng Airport (西安咸阳国际机场; Xī'ān Xiányáng Guójì Jīchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; %029 96788; www.xxia.com/en) is one of China’s best connected – you can fly to almost any major Chinese destination from here, as well as several international ones. Most hostels and hotels and all travel agencies sell airline tickets.
Daily flights include Běijīng (¥790), Chéngdū (¥750), Guǎngzhōu (¥590), Shànghǎi (¥970) and Ürümqi (¥1040). China Eastern (中国东方航空公司; Zhōngguó Dōngfāng Hángkōng GOOGLE MAP ; %029 8208 8707; 64 Xi Wulu; h8am-9pm) has international flights from Xī’ān to Hong Kong (¥1750), Seoul, Bangkok, Tokyo and Nagoya.
Bus
The long-distance bus station (长途汽车站, Chángtú Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) is opposite Xī’ān’s train station. It’s a chaotic place. Note that buses to Huá Shān (6am to 8pm) depart from in front of the train station.
Other bus stations around town include the east bus station (城东客运站; Chéngdōng Kèyùnzhàn Changle Lu; 长乐路 ) and the west bus station (城西客运站; Chéngxī Kèyùnzhàn Zaoyuan Donglu; 枣园东路 ). Both are located outside the Second Ring Rd. Bus K43 travels between the Bell Tower and the east bus station, and bus 103 travels between the train station and the west bus station. A taxi into the city from either bus station costs between ¥15 and ¥20.
Buses from Xī’ān’s long-distance bus station:
ALuòyáng ¥105, five hours (10am, noon, 1pm, 3pm)
AZhèngzhōu ¥135, six hours, one daily (10am)
Buses from Xī’ān’s east bus station:
AHánchéng ¥75, four hours, half-hourly (8am to 6.30pm)
AHuá Shān One way ¥36, two hours, hourly (7.30am to 7pm)
APíngyáo ¥160, six hours (8am, 9.30am, 10.30am, 12.30pm, 4.30pm)
AYán’ān ¥93, five hours, every 40 minutes (8.30am to 5.35pm)
Train
Xī’ān’s main train station (huǒchē zhàn) is just outside the northern city walls. It’s always busy so arrive early for your departure to account for queues and poor signage. Try to buy your onward tickets as soon as you arrive.
Most hotels and hostels can get you tickets (¥40 commission); there’s also an advance train ticket booking booth (代售火车票; Dàishòu Huǒchēpiào GOOGLE MAP ; Nan Dajie; 南大街 h8.50am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm) in the ICBC Bank’s south entrance a
nd another train ticket booth (代售火车票; Dàishòu Huǒchēpiào GOOGLE MAP ; Xiwu Lu; 西五路 h8am-5pm & 5.30pm-midnight) just west of Wulukou metro station on Xiwu Lu. This is much easier than the hectic crowds in the main ticket hall and commission is only ¥5.
Xī’ān is well connected to the rest of the country. For an overnight journey, deluxe Z trains run to/from Běijīng west (hard/soft sleeper ¥273/416, 11½ hours), the later departures leaving Xī’ān at 7.21pm and 7.27pm and Běijīng at 8.12pm and 8.40pm. The Z94 to Shànghǎi departs 4.46pm and arrives 7.53am (hard/soft sleeper ¥332/510, 15 hours).
From Xī’ān’s north train station (běi huǒchē zhàn) high-speed ‘bullet’ G trains zip to Běijīng west (2nd/1st class ¥825/516, 5½ hours, 10 daily), Luòyáng (2nd/1st class ¥280/175, 1½ hours), and Wǔhàn (2nd/1st class ¥455/728, four hours, nine daily), with other destinations starting in the next several years.
All prices listed here are for hard/soft sleeper tickets (except where indicated).
AChéngdū Hard/soft sleeper ¥194/301, 11 hours
AChóngqìng Hard/soft sleeper ¥190/285, 11 hours
AGuìlín Hard/soft sleeper ¥377/582, 28 hours
ALánzhōu Hard/soft sleeper ¥174/263, seven to nine hours
Lonely Planet China Page 77
