Lonely Planet China
Page 82
Xiùlǐ Huīzhōu Culture HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(秀里惠州文化酒店, Xiùlǐ Huīzhōu Wénhuà Jiǔdiàn %0559 518 2979; Xiùlǐ, 秀里 r ¥600-6000; aWs)
Filling several restored buildings inside the Yīxiàn Xiùlǐ Cinema Village, this new boutique hotel has 31 rooms of various configurations, from humble doubles to sprawling family suites, decorated with a careful selection of antiques. Guests can take advantage of the pool, inside another refitted historic hall, with colourful, Mondrian-esque window panes.
oImperial Guard Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(御前侍卫艺术精品酒店, Yùqián Shìwèi Yìshù Jīngpǐn Jiǔdiàn %0599 555 2777, 133 5909 1777; imperial_guard@163.com; Píngshān, 屏山村 d & tr incl breakfast ¥900-2300; aW)
All that was left of the nearly 300-year-old Imperial Guard Temple was the facade. Film producer Zhenyan Zhang reinvented the rest using beams salvaged from other structures and concession-era antiques. The result is this new, swoon-worthy 10-room boutique hotel, favoured by movers and shakers of the Chinese film world. Zhang's son, who speaks fluent English, and his wife manage the place.
8Getting There & Away
Píngshān and Xiùlǐ are inbetween Hóngcūn and Xīdì. Hourly buses running to and from the two villages can drop you off in Píngshān or Xiùlǐ (¥6, 15 minutes); tell the driver when you get on the bus where you want to get off. You can try to hail the same bus from the side of the road going back, though this isn't always possible and it's nearly impossible to pick up a cab at either village. As such, it's best to visit these two areas with a hired taxi or pedicab from Xīdì.
Shèxiàn 歙县
%0559 / Pop 490,000
Shèxiàn (歙县) is 25km east of Túnxī and can be visited as a day trip. The town was formerly the grand centre of the Huīzhōu culture, serving as its capital. Today, the city's classic Old Town is the main sight. The nearby port of Yúliáng harbours an architectural heritage entirely different from the other Huīzhōu villages. Shèxiàn is also the jumping-off point for visiting the memorial archways of Tángyuè, the best collection of their kind in the region.
1Sights
A combined ticket for Huīzhōu Old Town, Tángmó (唐模 adult/student ¥80/50, child & senior free; h8am-5pm) and Tángyuè Memorial Archways (¥220) is a good deal if you plan to visit everything; it also includes entry to the village of Chéngkǎn.
Tángyuè Memorial ArchwaysMONUMENT
(棠樾牌坊群, Tángyuè Páifāng Qún www.paifangqun.com; adult/student ¥100/50, child & senior free; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Over generations, the Bao (鲍) family constructed these seven carved stone páifāng (牌坊; memorial arches), stretching east to west in the fields outside their village, to consecrate their ancestors for feats of service and piety. Three are from the Ming dynasty, four from the Qing. Placards (in English) describe the acts – some touching, some gruesome – that earned such high esteem.
YúliángVILLAGE
(渔梁 ¥30, child & senior free; h9am-5pm)
Little-visited Yúliáng is a historic riverine port village on the Liàn River (练江; Liàn Jiāng). The cobbled and picturesque alley of Yuliang Jie (渔梁街) houses former transfer stations for the wood, salt and tea that plied the river; the tea shop at No 87 is an example. Note the firewalls separating the houses along the road. The attraction with most historical significance is the 138m-long granite Yúliáng Dam (渔梁坝; Yúliáng Bà) across the river; it's believed to be 1400 years old.
Boat operators can take you on excellent 20-minute return river trips (¥20).
A pedicab from Shèxiàn’s bus station or Huīzhōu Old Town to Yúliáng costs ¥10.
Huīzhōu Old TownVILLAGE
(徽州古城, Huīzhōu Gǔchéng adult/child & senior ¥80/50; h8am-5pm)
The entrance to the old town is marked by Yánghé Mén (阳和门), a double-eaved, wooden gate tower that dates to the Song dynasty. To the left are two stone xièzhì (獬豸; a legendary beast) and straight ahead, the main attraction: the magnificent Xǔguó Archway (许国石坊; Xǔguó Shífáng). This is China’s sole surviving four-sided decorative archway, with 12 lions (18 in total if you count the cubs) seated on pedestals around it and a profusion of bas-relief carvings of other mythical creatures.
4Sleeping
Túnxī has more accommodation options and makes for a better base; however, you could go for a quiet night in atmospheric Yúliáng.
Yúliáng Farm HotelHOMESTAY$
(渔梁农家饭店, Yúliáng Nóngjiā Fàndiàn %0559 653 9731; 147 Yuliang Jie, 渔梁街147号 d ¥60-80)
Midway down Yúliáng's narrow, cobblestone lane you can find small, clean, modern rooms above a restaurant (which will naturally cook up your dinner). There's an English sign out front.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng Huizhou Lu, 徽州路 h8am-5.30pm)
ATM and currency exchange; across from the entrance to Old Town.
8Getting There & Around
There are five trains daily from Huángshān station in Túnxī to Shèxiàn (¥2 to ¥9, 20 to 40 minutes), departing at 6.30am, 8.05am, 10.57am, 7.50pm and 8.45pm; the last train returns at 6.36pm. Buses from Túnxī’s long-distance bus station run regularly to Shèxiàn (¥7, 45 minutes, frequent 6am to 5pm).
Tourist shuttle 2 runs from Túnxī’s Tourist Distribution Center at 8am, 10am, 2pm and 4pm, to Tángmó (¥5.50, 45 minutes), stopping at Tángyuè (¥6, one hour) and Huīzhōu Old Town (¥8, 75 minutes) before terminating in Yúliáng (¥9, 90 minutes). The last bus returns to Túnxī at 4pm.
You can try to use tourist shuttle 2 to get around, but hiring a pedicab to take you to the sights (¥40/80 for a half-/full day) is more convenient. Getting return cabs in Yúliáng and Tángmó is difficult.
Huángshān 黄山
%0559
When its granite peaks and twisted pines are wreathed in spectral folds of mist, Huángshān’s (黄山) idyllic views easily nudge it into the select company of China’s top 10, nay, top five, sights. Legions of poets and painters have drawn inspiration from Huángshān’s iconic beauty. Yesterday’s artists seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of the temporal world have been replaced by crowds of tourists, who bring the hustle and bustle with them: the mountain is inundated with tourist traffic at points, so the magic can rapidly evaporate, especially during holiday periods and weekends. But Huángshān still rewards visitors with moments of tranquillity, and the unearthly views are simply breathtaking.
Climate
Locals claim that it rains more than 200 days a year up on the mountain. Allow yourself several days and climb when the forecast is best. Spring (April to June) generally tends to be misty, which means you may be treated to some sublime scenery, but you’re just as likely to encounter a dense fog that obscures everything except for a line of yellow ponchos extending up the trail. Summer (July to August) is the rainy season, though storms can blow through fairly quickly. Autumn (September to October) is generally considered to be the best travel period. Even at the height of summer, average temperatures rarely rise above 20°C at the summit, so come prepared. Summit hotels usually offer warm jackets for sunrise watchers.
Huángshān
1Sights
1Bànshān TempleA2
2Flower Blooming on a Brush TipA1
3Flying RockA1
4Refreshing TerraceA1
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Huángshān Hot SpringsA3
4Sleeping
6Báiyún HotelA2
7Běihǎi HotelA1
8Páiyúnlóu HotelA1
9Yùpínglóu HotelA2
8Information
10Bank of ChinaB4
Bank of ChinaA1
Běihǎi ClinicA1
11Huángshān Scenic Area Emergency Medical CenterB4
Police StationA1
Transport
12Cloud Valley Cable CarB2
13Cloud Valley
StationB2
14East Bus StationB4
15Jade Screen Cable CarA2
16Jade Screen Tower StationA2
17Mercy Light Pavilion StationA3
18Tiānhǎi StationA2
19White Goose Ridge StationA1
1Sights & Activities
Buses from Túnxī drop you off at the Tourist Distribution Center in the tourist village 2km south of Tāngkǒu, the town at the southern foot of Huángshān. The area around the bus station is a base for climbers; you can stock up on supplies (maps, rain gear and food), store luggage (¥10 per bag per day) and arrange onward transport here. Tangchuan Lu runs north to the town itself, where you can find amenities such as the post office and banks with international ATMs.
Tāngkǒu Town is small, basically two streets, Yanxi Zonglu and Yanxi Xilu, on either side of a river; look for the stairs leading down from the bridge on Tangchuan Lu.
Eastern StepsHIKING
A medium-fast climb of the 7.5km eastern steps from Cloud Valley Station, at 890m, to White Goose Ridge (白鹅峰; Bái’é Fēng; 1770m) can be done in 2½ hours. The route is pleasant, but lacks the awesome geological scenery of the western steps. In spring wild azalea and weigela add gorgeous splashes of colour to the wooded slopes. Much of the climb is comfortably shaded and although it can be tiring, it’s a doddle compared with the western steps.
Western StepsHIKING
The 15km western steps route has some stellar scenery, but it’s twice as long and strenuous as the eastern steps, and much easier to enjoy if you’re clambering down rather than gasping your way up. If you take the cable car up the mountain, just do this in reverse. The western steps descent begins at the Flying Rock (飞来石; Fēilái Shí MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a boulder perched on an outcrop 30 minutes from Běihǎi Hotel, and goes over Bright Summit Peak (光明顶; Guāngmíng Dǐng; 1841m), from where you can see Áoyú Peak (鳌鱼峰; Áoyú Fēng; 1780m), which resembles two turtles!
South of Áoyú Peak en route to Lotus Flower Peak, the descent funnels you down through Gleam of Sky (一线天; Yīxiàn Tiān), a remarkably narrow chasm – a vertical split in the granite – pinching a huge rock suspended above the heads of climbers. Further on, Lotus Flower Peak (莲花峰; Liánhuā Fēng; 1873m) marks the highest point, but is occasionally sealed off, preventing ascents. Liánruǐ Peak (莲蕊峰; Liánruǐ Fēng; 1776m) is decorated with rocks whimsically named after animals, but save some energy for the much-coveted and staggering climb – 1321 steps in all – up Heavenly Capital Peak (天都峰; Tiāndū Fēng; 1810m) and the stunning views that unfold below. As elsewhere on the mountain, young lovers have padlocks engraved with their names up here and lash them for eternity to the chain railings. Access to Heavenly Capital Peak (and other peaks) is sometimes restricted for maintenance and repair, so keep those fingers crossed when you go!
At the halfway point is Bànshān Temple (半山寺; Bànshān Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which literally means halfway temple. At the bottom of the steps is Mercy Light Pavilion, which has been repurposed as the cable car station. From here, you can pick up a minibus back to Tāngkǒu (¥19) or continue walking 1.5km to the hot springs area.
Huángshān Hot SpringsHOT SPRINGS
(黄山温泉, Huángshān Wēnquán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥298; h10.30am-11pm)
Costing more than admission to the mountain itself, a stop here is definitely an indulgence. Still, after a long day (or several) of hiking, the tubs, filled with natural spring water, are heavenly. There are many to choose from, including ones seeped in Chinese medicinal herbs.
Shuttle buses (¥11) run from Tángkǒu to the hot springs or from the lower stations of both cable cars (¥8). But if you're coming from the western steps, the 1.5km walk down here from the cable car station passes several waterfalls. Don't walk on the road: look for the sign to the pedestrian path at the bottom of the parking lot.
Huángshān SummitHIKING
The summit's huge network of connecting trails and walks meander up, down and across several different peaks. More than a few visitors spend several nights on the peak, and the North Sea (北海; Běihǎi) sunrise is a highlight for those staying overnight. Refreshing Terrace (清凉台; Qīngliáng Tái MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is five minutes’ walk from Běihǎi Hotel and attracts sunrise crowds. Lucky visitors are rewarded with the luminous spectacle of yúnhǎi (literally ‘sea of clouds’): idyllic pools of mist that settle over the mountain, filling its chasms and valleys with fog.
The staggering and other-worldly views from the summit reach out over huge valleys of granite and enormous formations of rock, topped by gravity-defying slivers of stone and the gnarled forms of ubiquitous Huángshān pine trees (Pinus taiwanensis). Many rocks have been christened with fanciful names by the Chinese, alluding to figures from religion and myth. Beginning to Believe Peak (始信峰; Shǐxìn Fēng; 1683m), with its jaw-dropping views, is a major bottleneck for photographers. En route to the North Sea, pause at the Flower Blooming on a Brush Tip (梦笔生花; Mèngbǐ Shēnghuā MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a 1640m-high granite formation topped by a pine tree. Clamber up to Purple Cloud Peak (丹霞峰; Dānxiá Fēng; 1700m) for a long survey over the landscape and try to catch the sun as it descends in the west. Aficionados of rock formations should keep an eye out for the poetically named Mobile Phone Rock (手机石; Shǒujī Shí), located near the top of the western steps.
If you're coming via cable car, the hike between White Goose Ridge station (白鹅嶺站; Bái'élǐng Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Jade Screen Tower station (玉屏楼站; Yùpínglóu Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ) takes 3½ hours – though you'd be missing out if you didn't explore the summit further.
West Sea CanyonHIKING
(西海大峡谷, Xīhǎi Dàxiágǔ )
A strenuous and awe-inspiring 8.5km hike, the West Sea Canyon route descends into a gorge (Xīhǎi Dàxiágǔ) and has some impressively exposed stretches (it’s not for those with vertigo), taking a minimum four hours to complete. You can access the canyon at either the northern entrance (near the Páiyúnlóu Hotel) or the southern entrance (near the Báiyún Hotel (白云宾馆; Báiyún Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0559 558 2708; dm/d ¥388/1880; aW), aka White Clouds Hotel). Avoid this region in bad weather.
A good option to start would be at the northern entrance. From there, you’ll pass through some rock tunnels and exit onto the best bits of the gorge. Here, stone steps have been attached to the sheer side of the mountain – peer over the side for some serious butt-clenching views down. Don’t worry, there are handrails. If you’re pressed for time or don’t have the energy to stomach a long hike, do a figure-eight loop of Ring Road 1 (一环上路口; Yīhuán Shàng Lùkǒu) and Ring Road 2 (二环上路口; Èrhuán Shàng Lùkǒu), and head back to the northern entrance. Sure, you’ll miss some stunning views across lonely, mist-encased peaks, but you’ll also miss the knee-killing dip into the valley and the subsequent thigh-shuddering climb out to the southern entrance.
The West Sea Canyon Funicular (西海大峡索道; Xīhǎi Daxiá Suǒdào one way ¥80; h6am-4.30pm Mar-Nov) runs between Tiānhǎi Station (天海站; Tiānhǎi Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ), at the southern entrance, and the bottom of the valley in a startling three minutes.
ASCENDING & DESCENDING THE MOUNTAIN
Regardless of how you ascend Huángshān (黄山; Yellow Mountain www.chinahuangshan.gov.cn; Mar-Nov ¥230, Dec-Feb ¥150, child 1.2-1.4m ¥115, under 1.2m free), you will be stung by a dizzying entrance fee. You can pay at the eastern steps near the Cloud Valley Station or at the Mercy Light Pavilion Station, where the western steps begin. Shuttle buses (¥19) run to both places from Tāngkǒu.
Three basic routes will get you up to the summit: the short, hard way (eastern steps); the longer, harder way (western steps); and the very short, easy way (cable car). It’s possible to do a 10-hour circuit going up the eastern steps and then down the western steps in one day, but you’ll have to be slightly insane, in good shape and you’ll definitely miss out on some of the more spectacular, hard-to-get-to areas.
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br /> A basic itinerary would be to take an early morning bus from Túnxī, climb the eastern steps, hike around the summit area, spend the night at the top, catch the sunrise and then hike back down the western steps the next day, giving you time to catch an afternoon bus back to Túnxī. Most travellers do opt to spend more than one night on the summit to explore all the various trails. Don’t underestimate the hardship involved; the steep gradients and granite steps can wreak havoc on your knees, both going up and down.
Most sightseers are packed (and we mean packed) into the summit area above the upper cable car stations, consisting of a network of trails running between various peaks, so don’t go expecting peace and quiet. The volume of visitors is mounting every year and paths are being widened at bottleneck points where scrums develop. The highlight of the climb for many independent travellers is the lesser-known West Sea Canyon hike, a more rugged, exposed section where most tour groups do not venture.
Make sure to bring enough water, food, warm clothing and rain gear before climbing. Bottled water and food prices increase the higher you go as porters carry everything up. As mountain paths are easy to follow and English signs plentiful, guides are unnecessary.
4Sleeping
In the tourist village around the bus station chain hotels, like 7 Days Inn and Green Tree Inn, there are rooms for around ¥200. Mediocre midrange hotels geared for tour groups line Tangchuan Lu all the way to Tāngkǒu Town, where rooms are a little cheaper; remember to look at rooms first and ask for discounts before committing. Many hotels in town offer transport to and from the Tourist Distribution Center.