Lonely Planet China
Page 115
Guǎngzhōu East Coach Terminal (广州东站汽车客运站; Guǎngzhōu Dōngzhàn Kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; Linhe Xilu; mLines 1 & 3, Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station) Behind Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station. Good for destinations within Guǎngdōng; departures aren’t as frequent as from other stations.
Guǎngdōng Long-Distance Bus Station (广东省汽车客运站; Guǎngdōng Shěng Qìchē Kèyùnzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huanshi Xilu; mLines 2 & 5, Guǎngzhōu Railway Station) West of the Guǎngzhōu Railway Station. There's a smaller long-distance bus station (广州市气车客运站; Guǎngzhōu Shì Qìchēzhàn) over the footbridge.
Liúhuā Bus Station (流花车站, Liúhuā Chēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 188 Huanshi Xilu; 环市西路188号 ) Opposite Guǎngzhōu Main Train Station. Destinations include Cháozhōu and Shàntóu.
Train
Guǎngzhōu’s three major train stations serve destinations all over China. China Travel Service, next to Hotel Landmark Canton, books train tickets up to five days in advance for ¥10 to ¥20. There are similar fees for booking from the Ctrip app, with tickets paid for by card and picked up from a station.
From Guǎngzhōu Main Train Station (广州火车总站; Guǎngzhōu Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huanshi Xilu; mLines 2 & 5, Guǎngzhōu Railway Station):
ALhasa ¥919, 53 hours, one every two days (11.42pm)
ASháoguān ¥38, 2½ hours, frequent services
AZhàoqìng ¥17 to ¥71, two hours, 14 daily
High-speed trains leave from Guǎngzhōu South Railway Station (广州火车南站; Guǎngzhōu Nánzhàn Shibi, Pānyú) in Pānyú:
ABěijīng ¥709 to ¥862, eight to 11 hours, 10 daily
AChángshā ¥314, 2½ hours, frequent
AQīngyuǎn ¥40, 25 minutes, frequent
AShànghǎi ¥479 to ¥793, seven to 11½ hours, 10 daily
ASháoguān ¥105, 50 minutes, frequent
AShēnzhèn North Station ¥75, 45 minutes
AWǔhān ¥464, 4½ hours, frequent
Light rail goes to Zhūhǎi (¥34, one hour).
To get to Guǎngzhōu South Railway Station, take metro line 2 from the main train station (¥6, 34 minutes) or one of the South Station Express buses (南站快线; Nánzhàn Kuàixiàn) that leave from Tianhe Sports Centre metro station, Garden Hotel and Hotel Landmark Canton ( ¥14, 45 minutes).
From Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station (广州火车东站; Guǎngzhōu Dōngzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; mLines 1 & 3, Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station):
AShànghǎi ¥206 to ¥377, 16 hours, one daily (6.12pm)
The station is used mainly for bullet trains to Shēnzhèn (¥80, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes, 6.15am to 10.32pm) and a dozen direct trains to Hong Kong (¥184, HK$222, two hours, 8.19am to 9.32pm).
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Airport shuttle buses (¥17 to ¥32, 35 to 70 minutes, every 20 to 30 minutes, 5am to 11pm) leave from half a dozen locations, including the Garden Hotel and Tiānhé bus station. A taxi to/from the airport will cost about ¥150.
Metro line 2 links the airport’s south terminal (Airport South station; Jīchǎng Nán) and Guǎngzhōu East station. The ride takes 40 minutes (¥8, 6.10am to 11pm), or 70 minutes to Běijīng Lù station.
Bus
Guǎngzhōu has a large network of motor buses (¥1) and bus rapid transport (BRT; ¥2).
Ferry
Riding the Pearl River is a useful and overlooked way of getting around. It can sometimes avoid multiple metro line changes and costs only ¥2 for a DIY river tour. Ferry piers near sights include:
Dàshātóu Wharf (大沙头游船码头; Dàshātóu Yóuchuán Mǎtóu GOOGLE MAP ) Used by main river tour boats and next to Hǎizhū Square station.
Tiānzì Pier (天字码头; Tiānzì Mǎtou GOOGLE MAP ; Beijing Lu; 北京路 ferry one way ¥2; mLine 6, Beijing Lu) At the south end of the Beijing Lu shopping street, with ferries to Canton Tower
Xīdī Pier (西堤码头; Xīdī Mǎtou GOOGLE MAP ) Just east of Shāmiàn Island.
Metro
Guǎngzhōu has nine metro lines in full service, all with free maps available in English (beware of old maps still in circulation that omit Line 6). New lines are to be added and extended from 2017 onwards. Operating hours are approximately from 6.20am to 11.30pm and fares cost from ¥2 to ¥14.
Transit passes (羊城通; yáng chéng tōng) are available at metro stations from ¥70 (deposit ¥20 included). The deposit is refundable at designated stations, including Tiyu Xilu and Gōngyuán Qián. This pass can be used on all public transport, including in yellow taxis. There are also one-day (¥20) and three-day (¥50) metro passes. Both allow unlimited use within the specified period and do not require a deposit.
Taxi
Taxis are abundant but demand is high. Peak hours are from 8am to 9am, and around lunch and dinner. Yellow or red cabs are driven by local drivers; others by migrant drivers who may not know the city well. Flag fall is ¥10 for the first 2.5km; ¥2.6 for every additional kilometre, with a ¥1 fuel surcharge. App taxi services such as Uber (www.uber.com) have gained popularity and can offer a safe, convenient service, if your Chinese is up to it.
Around Guǎngzhōu
oYúyìn Mountain VillaGARDENS
(余荫山房; Yúyīn Shānfáng GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3482 2187; Náncūn, Pānyú; adult/child ¥18/9; h8am-6pm; mLine 3, Dàshí, exit A)
One of Guăngdōng's four famous classical gardens, this graceful property was built in 1871 by an official of the Qing court. It incorporates the landscaping styles of Sūzhōu and Hángzhōu, and the features of Lĭngnán architecture. The result is a photogenic collection of pavilions, terraces, halls, bridges and lakes. It also has a dessert shop selling ginger milk curd (姜汁撞奶; jiāngzhī zhuàngnăi).
The Waterside Pavilion commands a different vista on each of its eight sides; the Deep Willow Room features ancient art and coloured 'Manchu' windows (满洲窗; mǎnzhoū chuāng) aka 'four-season windows' (四季窗; sìjì chuāng), which create an illusion of changing seasons by altering the hue of the outside scenery.
Turn left when you leave the metro. There's a stop for the Route 8 feeder bus to Qīxīnggăng Gōngyuán (七星岗公园; ¥2). Disembark at Nánshān Gōngyuán (南山公园), the 20th stop, after 30 minutes. Cross to the opposite and leafy side of the road. Bus 30 (¥2) from the stop there takes you to the entrance of Yúyìn Mountain Villa just one stop away.
Fóshān 佛山
%0757 / Pop 6 million
An easy half-hour metro ride will take day-trippers from Guǎngzhōu to this city. Fóshān (佛山; literally ‘Buddha Hill’) was famous for its ceramics in the Ming dynasty. Today, it’s better known as the birthplace of two kung fu icons, Wong Fei Hung and Ip Man (Bruce Lee's master), and the Wing Chun style of kung fu developed here.
1Sights
Nánfēng Ancient Kiln Artists' VillageARTS CENTRE
(南风古灶; Nánfēng Gǔzào %0757 8278 0606; 6 Gaomiao Lu, Shíwān, 高庙路6号 ¥25; h9am-5.30pm; g137)
This lovely ceramics town of stone-paved paths is worth snooping around in for its artisans' ceramics workshops and the two ancient ‘dragon kilns’ of more than 30m in length. The modern Bruce Lee statues celebrating the local Wing Chun school of kung fu are also photogenic. Shíwān (石湾), 2km from downtown Fóshān, was once China’s most important ceramics production centre. Much of the Ming dynasty pottery you see at museums comes from here (those in most shops here, however, are mass-produced copies).
ZǔmiàoTAOIST SITE
(祖庙 %0757 8229 3723; www.fszumiao.com; 21 Zumiao Lu, 祖庙路21号 ¥20, combined with Ancient Nánfēng Kiln ¥35; h8.30am-5.30pm; mZǔmiào, exit A)
The 11th-century Zǔmiào temple is believed to be the site where Cantonese opera flourished. The art is still performed today during festivals to entertain the gods, and the tourists. Sharing the complex are a Confucius temple (c 1911) and memorial halls dedicated to two martial artists born in Fóshān – Wong Fei Hung (aka Huang Fei Hong) and Ip Man – and kung fu
cinema in general.
There are daily performances of kung fu (10am, 2pm and 3pm) and lion dance (10.30am, 2.15pm and 3.30pm). The temple runs martial-arts classes for children every summer. Call 0757 8222 1680 for details.
Liáng GardenGARDENS
(梁园; Liáng Yuán %0757 8224 1279; Songfeng Lu, 松风路 ¥10; h8.30am-5.30pm; g205, 212)
This tranquil residence of a family that produced painters and calligraphers was built during the Qing dynasty. Designed in a Lǐngnán style, it delights with ponds, willow-lined pathways and, in summer, trees heavy with wax apple and jackfruit. Like Yúyìn Mountain Villa near Guăngzhōu, it's one of the four great classical gardens. Liáng Garden is north of Rénshòu Temple and 300m north of the Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng).
THE MAKING OF A NATIONAL LEGEND
Fóshān-born Wong Fei Hung (1847–1924) is one of China’s best-known folk heroes. Although a consummate gōngfū (kung fu) master in his lifetime, he didn’t become widely known until his story was merged with fiction in countless movies made after 1949, most by Hong Kong directors, such as Hark Tsui's Once Upon a Time in China, starring Jet Li. Sadly, Wong spent his later years in desolation, after his son was murdered and his martial-arts school was destroyed by fire. Regardless, an astonishing 106 movies (and counting!) have celebrated this son of Fóshān, resulting in the world’s longest movie series and the creation of a national legend.
Another Fóshān hero, Ip Man (1893–1972) rose to fame as a Wing Chun master at the outset of WWII. He fled to Hong Kong in 1949 where he founded the first Wing Chun school. His most famous student was Bruce Lee. Ip Man was immortalised by Wong Kar-wai's award-winning The Grandmaster and a series of semibiographical movies starring Donnie Yen.
4Sleeping
Fóshān Marco PoloHOTEL$$$
(马哥孛罗酒店; Mǎgē Bóluó Jiǔdiàn %0757 8250 1888; www.marcopolohotels.com; 97 Renmin Lu, 人民路97号 r/ste from ¥2380/3080; iWs; mZǔmiào, exit C)
Arguably the best place to stay in town. Rates are usually in the region of ¥800.
5Eating
In this temple town, vegetarian restaurants are dotted on-site or nearby. A local speciality is the shrimp wonton noodle soup.
Rénshēngyuán VegetarianVEGETARIAN$
(仁生缘素食; Rénshēngyuán Sùshí %0757 8225 2171; 22 Zumiao Lu; 祖庙路22号 mains ¥23-38; h11am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm; v; mZǔmiào, exit A)
Very good vegetarian dishes that include plenty of fresh greens and mock meats, made to be shared. Enter the large, neat restaurant from the laneway opposite Rénshòu Temple.
Yīngjì Noodle ShopNOODLES$
(应记面家; Yīngjì Miànjiā %0757 3171 2533; 112 Lianhua Lu; 莲花路112号 noodles ¥7-12; h7am-11pm; g105, 106, 109, 114, 118, 128, 137)
This excellent noodle shop opposite Liánhuā Supermarket (莲花超市; Liánhuā Chāoshì) is the go-to place in Fóshān for noodles with shrimp wonton (鲜虾云吞面; xiānxiā yúntūnmiàn).
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Buses leaving from Fóshān bus station (佛山汽车站; Fóshān Shěng Qìchēzhàn Fenjiang Zhonglu), 400m south of the train station:
AShēnzhèn ¥75 to ¥90, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes
AZhūhǎi ¥70, three hours, every 30 to 60 minutes
Buses (¥13) run hourly between Guǎngzhōu's Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station and Zǔmiào bus station (祖庙车站; Zǔmiào Chēzhàn 104 Jianxin Lu; 建新路104号 ), a block east of Zǔmiào metro station.
Train
Trains go to Guǎngzhōu (¥9 to ¥24, 30 minutes, 21 daily).
The metro is the easiest way to get between Guǎngzhōu and Fóshān, via the Guăngfó line (¥7, 30 to 60 minutes), with regular Guǎngzhōu tickets.
There’s a direct express train to Hong Kong (¥210, 2½ hours, 4.13pm), and at 10.42pm from Kowloon.
8Getting Around
Buses 101 and 134 (¥2) link the train station to Zǔmiào and Shíwān.
Taxis start at ¥8 for the first 2km, costing ¥2.60 for every additional 1km.
LǐNGNáN CULTURE
Lǐngnán (岭南) culture is an important part of Cantonese culture and it manifests itself most notably in food, art and architecture, and Cantonese opera. Culturally Lǐngnán was a hybrid and a late bloomer that often went on to reverse-influence the rest of the country. Its development was also fuelled by the ideas of the revolution to end feudalism. Boundaries between refined and pedestrian are relaxed and there’s an open-mindedness towards modernity.
PLACE
Lǐngnán, literally South of the Ranges, refers to the region to the south of the five mountain ranges that separate the Yangzi River (central China) from the Pearl River (southern China). Traditionally, Lǐngnán encompassed several provinces, but today it’s become almost synonymous with Guǎngdōng.
PEOPLE
The term Lǐngnán was traditionally used by men of letters on the Yangzi side as a polite reference to the boonies, where ‘mountains were tall and emperors out of sight’, as a Chinese saying goes. These northerners regarded their southern cousins as less robust (physically and morally), more romantic and less civilised. But being far-flung had its benefits. Lǐngnán offered refuge to people not tolerated by the Middle Kingdom; and played host in various diasporas in Chinese history to migrants from the north, such as the Hakkas in Méizhōu. This also explains why some Cantonese words are closer in pronunciation to the ancient speech of the Chinese.
LǐNGNáN SCHOOL OF PAINTING (1900–50)
The Lǐngnán painters were an influential lot who ushered in a national movement in art in the first half of the 20th century.
Traditionally, Chinese painters were literati well-versed in calligraphy, poetry and Confucian classics. These scholar-artists would later become imperial bureaucrats, and as they were often stationed somewhere far away from home, they expressed their nostalgia by recreating the landscapes of their childhood villages from memory.
The founding masters of the Lǐngnán School of Painting, however, studied abroad, where they were exposed to Japanese and European art. China, during the Qing dynasty, was being carved up by Western powers. Sharing the ideals of the revolutionaries, these artists devoted themselves to a revolution in art by combining traditional techniques with elements of Western and Japanese realist painting.
The New National Painting, as it came to be called, featured a bolder use of colours, more realism and a stronger sense of perspective – a style that was more accessible to the citizenry of China’s new republic than the literati painting of the past.
You can see Lǐngnán paintings at the Guǎngdōng Museum of Art and Memorial Hall of the Lǐngnán School of Painting.
LǐNGNáN ARCHITECTURE
The Lǐngnán school of architecture is one of three major schools of modern Chinese architecture, alongside the Běijīng and Shànghǎi schools. It was founded in the 1950s, though earlier structures exhibiting a distinctive local style had existed since the late Ming dynasty (1600s). The features of the Lǐngnán school are lucidity, openness and an organic incorporation of nature into built environments.
ANCIENT
Examples of this style of architecture include schools, ancestral halls and temples of the Ming and Qing dynasties. The Chen Clan Ancestral Hall in Guǎngzhōu and Zǔmiào in Fóshān are prime illustrations of this style.
Vernacular Lǐngnán-style houses are more decorative than their austere northern cousins. The ‘wok-handle’ houses (锅耳屋; guō'ěr wū) in Líchá village near Zhàoqìng have distinctive wok-handle-shaped roofs that also serve to prevent the spread of fire. You’ll also see in Líchá village bas-relief sculpting and paintings (浮雕彩画; fúdiāo cǎihuà), intricate and colourful, above windows or doors, portraying classical tales, birds, flowers and landscapes.
MODERN
Excellent examples of this style of architecture, appearing in the late Qing dynasty, are the Xīguān houses on Ēnning Road in Guǎngzhōu, with their grey bric
ks and stained-glass windows. These windows were products of the marriage between Manchurian windows (满洲窗; mǎnzhoū chuāng), simple contraptions consisting of paper overlaid with wood, and coloured glass introduced to Guǎngzhōu by Westerners. It’s said that when a foreign merchant presented the empress dowager with a bead of coloured glass, she was so dazzled by its beauty that she reciprocated with a pearl. Pànxī Restaurant in Guǎngzhōu and Yúyìn Mountain Villa have Manchurian windows embedded with coloured glass.
Another example of modern Lǐngnán architecture is shophouses with arcades or qílóu (骑楼) on the ground floor, a style that evolved from the arcades of southern Europe. You'll see them in Cháyáng Old Town in Méizhōu and Chìkǎn in Kāipíng.
CONTEMPORARY
The garden-restaurants and garden-hotels that proliferated between the 1950s and 1990s are examples of contemporary architecture. Guǎngzhōu’s Garden Hotel, Guǎngzhōu Restaurant and Pànxī Restaurant all contain elaborate indoor gardens complete with trees and waterfalls, and make use of glass to blur the boundary between built and natural environments.
These indoor Edens were fashioned after the private Lǐngnán-style gardens of wealthy families, such as Liáng Garden in Fóshān, which together with the imperial gardens of Peking and the scholars’ gardens of Jiāngnán, constituted the three main types of Chinese gardens. Thanks to these architects, the privilege of having gardens in the interior was now available to all.