Lonely Planet China
Page 127
River View Hotel RestaurantGUANGXI, WESTERN$$
(望江楼餐厅; Wàngjiānglóu Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 11 Binjiang Lu; 滨江路11号 mains ¥20-80; h8.30am-8.30pm; av)
Just a street removed from traffic-choked Diecui Lu, this place offers good food, quiet surrounds and attractive prices, with river views to boot. There's an English menu with pizzas and sandwiches, and a Chinese one with all the usual suspects, well executed.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Yángshuò is stuffed with bars, but there are few of character and taste, and many are cheesy.
Several restaurants double as decent bars, and many hotels, hostels and guesthouses have relaxing bar areas. Just off Xijie is where German beer gardens sit alongside generic Western-style cafes.
oMojo BarBAR
(露天酒吧; Lùtiān Jiǔbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6th fl, Alshan Hotel, 18 Xijie; 西街18号阿里山大酒店六楼 h7pm-3am; W)
Way above the throngs choking Xijie, Mojo Bar – on the 6th floor and roof of the Alshan Hotel – has the most amazing outdoor terrace with wraparound views of the Avatar-like karst landscape, set to Red Hot Chili Peppers. Inside it's pool, cheap beer (Tsingtao, ¥20) and rather cramped quarters; outside, on long summer evenings especially, it's astonishing views in all directions.
Find your way to No 18 Xijie, the Alshan Hotel, and take the lift to the 4th floor before walking up the last two flights to Mojo Bar.
3Entertainment
Impressions Liú SānjiěPERFORMING ARTS
(印象刘三姐; Yìnxiàng Liú Sānjiě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 881 7783; tickets ¥200-680; h7.30-8.30pm & 9.30-10.30pm)
The busiest show in town is directed by filmmaker Zhang Yimou, who also directed acclaimed films such as Raise the Red Lantern and House of Flying Daggers. Six hundred performers take to the Lí River each night with 12 illuminated karst peaks serving as a backdrop. Book at your hotel for discounts and transport to/from the venue (1.5km from town).
8Information
Travel agencies are all over town. Backpacker-oriented cafes and most hotels can also often dispense good advice. Shop around for the best deals.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Xijie; 西街 h9am-5pm)
Foreign exchange and 24-hour ATM for international cards.
People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(人民医院; Rénmín Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; 26 Chengzhong Lu; 城中路26号 )
English-speaking doctors available.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; Chengbei Lu; 城北路 h8am-noon & 3-6pm summer, 2.30-5.30pm winter)
Has several fluent English speakers, but doesn't issue visa extensions. It's 100m east of People's Hospital.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The closest airport is in Guìlín. Your hotel should be able to organise taxi rides directly to the airport (about ¥240, one hour).
Bus
Yángshuò has two bus stations: Shímǎ South Bus Station (汽车南站; Qìchē Nánzhàn courtyard of the Agriculture Mechanisation Management Bureau, 321 Guodao; 国道321号, 农业机械化管理局 ) and Dàcūnmén North Station (汽车北站; Qìchē Běizhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; fishery market next to Dàcūnmén Provincial Government Service Centre, Qingquan Lu; 大村门开发区清泉路,大村门县政务服务中心,水产批发市场处 ).
Direct bus links:
AGuìlín ¥20, one hour, every 15 to 20 minutes (6.45am to 8.30pm), leaves when full
AGuìlín Airport ¥70, 1½ hours, 8am, 10am, noon, 1.30pm, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7pm and 8.30pm
ANánníng ¥160, six hours, three daily (8.40am, 11.30am and 3.30pm)
AShēnzhèn ¥150 to ¥180, eight hours, seven daily (1.30am, 12.30pm, 1.30pm, 3pm, 8.30pm, 9.30pm and 10.30pm)
AXìngpíng ¥8, one hour, every 15 minutes (6.30am to 6pm)
AYángdī ¥9.50, one hour, every 20 minutes (7am to 6pm)
The bus from Guìlín to Huángyáo (¥61, 9am and 1.30pm) only stops in Yángshuò erratically, so check before purchasing tickets.
Train
Yángshuò town itself has no train station, but there is a station called Yángshuò station servicing high-speed trains in Fànzèng Shān (饭甑山), near Xìngpíng, 14km away. Regular buses (¥20) connect the train station with Yángshuò, travelling via Xìngpíng. Trains include:
AGuǎngzhōu 1st/2nd class ¥141/117, 2½ hours, five daily, 8.21am to 6.49pm
AGuìlín 1st/2nd class ¥25/21, 30 minutes, seven daily, 9.03am to 7.19pm
ANánníng 1st/2nd class ¥157/131, 3½ hours, one daily, 9.03am
8Getting Around
Most places in town can be reached by pedicab for under ¥20. Bicycles can be rented at almost all hostels and from streetside outlets for ¥10 to ¥25 per day. A deposit of ¥200 to ¥500 is standard, but don’t hand over your passport. For better-quality bikes, head to Bike Asia.
Bike-rental operators will rent you an electric scooter (from ¥150 per day) or petrol scooter (from ¥200) without asking to see a driver's licence. Scooters can make the going easier, but be aware that if you don't have a Chinese driver's licence, you will probably not be insured (international driving licences are not accepted in China) and things could get complicated and costly in the event of an accident.
Bus 5 links the two bus stations (¥1); it also gets you to Xijie from either bus station (¥1).
Around Yángshuò
The countryside of Yángshuò and the region through which the Lí River (the body of water that connects Guìlín and Yángshuò) and its tributary waterways flow offer weeks of exploration by bike, boat, foot or any combination thereof. Scenes that inspired generations of Chinese painters are the standard here: wallowing water buffalo and farmers tending their crops against a backdrop of limestone peaks. Some of the villages come alive on market days, which operate on a three-, six- and nine-day monthly cycle. The Yùlóng River, the very pretty tributary of the Lí River, courses through this region, making for fantastic day trips, with riverside villages to explore, ancient settlements to stop by and verdant hills to climb.
Around Yángshuò
1Sights
1Lóngtán VillageA3
2Moon HillA3
3Yùlóng RiverA2
4Sleeping
4Giggling TreeA3
5Phoenix Pagoda Fonglou RetreatA3
6Secret GardenA2
7Tea Cozy HotelA2
5Eating
8Dàcūnmén Night MarketA3
3Entertainment
9Impressions Liú SānjiěB3
1Sights & Activities
Moon HillHILL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥15)
A 30-minute – extremely sweaty – climb up steps to the magnificent natural arch that adorns Moon Hill is rewarded with both lost calories and some exhilarating views of surrounding peaks and the tapestry of flat fields in the lowlands. Load up with liquids in hot weather, and be prepared to be pounced on by hawkers flogging water to anything that moves at the top. Moon Hill is easily reached by bike; just set off down Kangzhan Lu (抗战路), keep going and follow the signs.
Yùlóng RiverRIVER
(遇龙河; Yùlóng Hé MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The scenery along this small, quiet river about 6km southwest of Yángshuò is breathtaking. It is visited by hiring a boatman in Yángshuò for the lazy float up the river. Tell the boatman you want to visit the fairy-tale-like Dragon Bridge (遇龙桥; Yùlóng Qiáo), about 10km upstream from Yángshuò. This 600-year-old stone arched structure overhung with old gnarly trees is among Guǎngxī’s largest, and comes with crooked steps and leaning parapets.
Lóngtán VillageVILLAGE
(龙潭村; Lóngtán Cūn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20)
This fascinating village about 1.5km beyond Moon Hill is a treasure trove of traditional Qing-dynasty architecture. Beyond the initial, slightly cheesy scenic area at the beginning, you reach the village proper, where you can get lost
in a maze of tight lanes. Look out for the old Opium Den (烟馆; Yānguǎn) at No 89 Longtan Cun, which didn't close till 1940, and note the village's carved upturned lintels, astonishingly regular brickwork and ample distribution of Cultural Revolution slogans.
Yùlóng River, Guǎngxī | LIUFUYU/GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO ©
4Sleeping
Some of Yángshuò's best sleeping options lie scattered among the peaks and hills around the town, in the lush Lí River and Yùlóng River region, making it the area of choice to base yourself for either short or extended stays.
oGiggling TreeGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %136 6786 6154; www.gigglingtree.com; Aǐshānmén Village; 矮山门村 dm ¥100, d ¥290-320, tw ¥290-320, tr ¥360-390, f ¥430-520; aW)
Simply lovely rooms in a beautiful countryside setting is what's on offer at the Giggling Tree, run by Dutch owners Karst (perfect name) and Paulien. It's an old 23-room farmhouse, just 5km from Yángshuò, with mudbrick buildings, and magnificent scenery right on your doorstep. Rooms are delightful, even the three-bed dorms, with an abundance of polished wood and blue paint all round.
At night, you can hear a pin drop. Both Western and Chinese food is cooked up and you can rent bikes for ¥30 per day.
Phoenix Pagoda Fonglou RetreatBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(凤楼岁月; Fènglóu Suìyuè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %180 7730 5230, 0773 877 8458; www.fonglou.com; 98 Fènglóu Village, Gāotián Town; 高田镇, 凤楼村98号 d & tw ¥320-380, f ¥560; naiW)
The 12 rooms here have wide balconies overlooking the hills, furniture made from local materials, wi-fi and no TV. Meals are served on the scenic rooftop patio. The Taiwanese owner Jerry has tips on hiking and biking. It's a ¥40 taxi ride from downtown Yángshuò.
oTea Cozy HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(水云阁; Shuǐyún Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 881 6158, 135 0783 9490; www.yangshuoteacozy.com; 212 Báishā Zhèn, Xiàtáng Village; 白沙镇夏棠村212号 r ¥580, ste ¥680-980; aiW)
What makes Tea Cozy a true winner is not the 12 ethnic-style balcony rooms (though these are wonderful in themselves), but the exceptional service by the English-speaking staff. Also laudable are the culinary skills of the restaurant staff (mains ¥20 to ¥108). The hotel has three shuttle buses daily to Yángshuò (¥40) and back, the same price as a taxi.
oSecret GardenBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(秘密花园酒店; Mìmì Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 877 1932; www.yangshuosecretgarden.com; Jìuxiàn Village; 旧县村 r ¥468-498, ste ¥628-788; aiW)
Middlesbrough-born South African designer Ian Hamlinton (nicknamed ‘Crazy One’ by the locals) has energetically and lovingly converted a cluster of Ming dynasty houses in the village of Jìuxiàn into a gorgeous Western-style boutique hotel with a choice selection of rooms. The Secret Garden was being expanded at the time of writing, and a restaurant was being added.
A taxi to Yángshuò from here costs ¥50; it takes about 20 minutes to half an hour by electric scooter.
5Eating
Some fine and occasionally outstanding restaurant choices can be found at many of the guesthouses, resorts and hotels that cater to outside visitors.
oLunaITALIAN$$
(%0773 877 8169; www.yangshuoguesthouse.com; 26 Moon Hill Village (Li Village), Gaotian Town; 月亮村 (历村) 26号, 高田镇 mains from ¥35)
This fine rooftop restaurant experience is one of Yángshuò's best. The view of Moon Hill isn't quite as amazing as it used to be – thanks to a neighbour building a stack opposite – but it's still sublime. And the food remains top-notch: the taglioni con gamberi e melanzana (tagliolini with shrimp and eggplant) is lovely, but the whole menu's a winner. Romantic, delightful, highly appetising.
The pizza is fantastic too, and there's a good choice of vegetarian dishes. The attached Yangshuo Village Inn has delectable rooms too, if you need somewhere to kip after your fill. It's not easy to find, in a village called Li Village (历村; Lì Cūn), before you reach Gāotián Town.
Minibuses (¥2) run from Yángshuò to Gāotián. Before Gāotián, disembark at Li Village and it's a five-minute walk to the restaurant. A taxi one way from Yángshuò will cost around ¥30. If cycling to Moon Hill, the restaurant is a short ride away.
8Getting There & Around
The region is best reached from Yángshuò by a combination of bus, bike and taxi. Bikes can be hired from rental operators along Xi Jie, especially towards the southern end, where you can also rent electric and petrol scooters. Buses to this region depart from Yángshuò; you can jump aboard them along Pantao Lu.
Except for visits to Xìngpíng (best visited by bus), the best way to explore this region is by bike, leisurely cycling through the flatlands of this karst region. Hiking is also an option and boating trips are available too.
Liúgōng 留公村
%0773
The very quiet 400-year-old village of Liúgōng (留公村; Liúgōng Cūn), 13km from Yángshuò, was a trading hub on the Lí River during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Traces of its former affluence are visible in the handsome buildings (the walls of some still blush with slogans painted during the Cultural Revolution). You can stroll from the village to the hills behind it, where the only things punctuating the silence are cockerels and murmurs of the past.
1Sights
Déyuè BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING
(得月楼; Déyuè Lóu )
Once among Lí River's most beautiful buildings, Déyuè, with its ornate embellishments, stands weather-beaten by the river like a frail diva. The name literally means 'Obtain the Moon Building' and residents say it used to be an opera house – on performance nights music would reverberate over the moonlit water. An exquisite four-cornered pavilion sits on the rooftop.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most visitors avail themselves of well-known rural sleeping options not too far away, such as the excellent Giggling Tree or the Secret Garden.
Liúgōng Gǔpú Farmer RestaurantGUANGXI$$
(留公古朴农家饭; Liúgōng Gǔpú Nóngjiāfàn %136 6946 2263, 0773 892 3581; mains ¥16-98; h7am-late)
All visitors to Liúgōng come here for fresh river fish, local fowl and homemade tofu. On national holidays, it's colonised by local tourists; book ahead. The restaurant also rents out kayaks (from ¥60 per day), but not if the river waters are too swollen with rain.
8Getting There & Away
To cycle or ride a scooter to Liúgōng, take Kangzhan Lu (抗战路) in Yángshuò until the roundabout. Bear left, passing traffic lights and entering the new Shima Lu (石马路). After crossing the bridge, you'll see Aishān Village (矮山村). At the junction, look for signage for Pǔyì (普益). Take the concrete road that heads in that direction. After a curve, continue for another 4km, passing other villages. At a road junction with small shops including a motorcycle repair shop, you'll see signage for Liúgōng Village. Another 5km on a concrete road brings you to a hill close to the roadside and then a rusty sign pointing to the village.
From the village pier, a 90-minute raft ride to Yángshuò generally costs ¥200 per person (¥260 for two).
Xìngpíng 兴坪
%0773 / Pop 43,000
Some say Xìngpíng (兴坪) is just like Yángshuò before the latter became a honeypot, for better or worse. This 1750-year-old town has loads of history and is certainly attractive; in fact, the landscape you see when you disembark from the raft is printed on the back of China's ¥20 banknote. Travellers come here for its yesteryear flavours; with the recent opening of nearby Yángshuò train station, however, it is set to get a lot busier.
1Sights
Fish VillageVILLAGE
(鱼村; Yúcūn ¥10)
You can hike the mountain behind Xìngpíng, past pomelo and orange groves, to sleepy Fish Village. Miraculously untouched during the Sino-Japanese War and the Cultural Revolution, the 400-year-old village has friendly residents and vernacular houses similar to those at Xìngpíng.
A bamboo raft back to Xìngpíng or Yángsh
uò costs ¥200 to ¥300.
Xìngpíng Ancient StageHISTORIC SITE
(兴平古戏台; Xìngpíng Gǔ Xìtái h9am-5pm)F
The highlight of Xìngpíng's old street is this well-preserved and attractive Qing dynasty opera stage. You can see intricate carvings depicting operatic scenes and slash marks made by prop weaponry on the pillars. If you want to take pictures, an old man may collect a ¥1 donation from you. The trendy-looking Master Cafe is in the same compound.
4Sleeping & Eatiing
Xìngpíng's bucolic setting makes it an excellent place to overnight and there's a great hostel here with dorm rooms as well as comfortable doubles, twins and family rooms.
oThis Old Place Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(老地方; Lǎo Dìfang %0773 870 2887; www.topxingping.com; 5 Rongtan Lu; 榕潭街5号 dm ¥40-80, s ¥100-120, tw ¥130-200, q ¥180; hcafe noon-9.30pm; aiW)
Set in a historic building, this hostel has a lovely backpacker vibe, with 42 solid rooms, and a supremely lounge-worthy living room with a wood-fire oven that cooks up delicious pizzas. Rooms are really pleasant; the south-facing ones in the new wing are the best. The hostel operators can suggest plenty of itineraries for guests.
Old NeighbourhoodCHINESE$$
(老街坊餐吧; Lǎojiēfāng Cānbā %0773 870 1808, 137 3739 6512; 12 Xinjie, 新街12号 dishes ¥20-120; h8am-10.30pm)
Old Neighbourhood's owner is a self-made cook from northeastern China who's lived in Guǎngdōng, so dishes from these and other regions all figure on the menu. Of particular note are the dumplings (饺子; jiǎozi) and the stuffed duck (莲子鸭; liánzǐ yā), which requires three hours’ pre-ordering.