Shíqiáo (石桥) Shíqiáo means 'stone bridge' and you'll know why when you spy the lovely ones in this beautiful Miao town southwest of Kǎilǐ. Shíqiáo was famed for its handmade paper, which can still be seen.
Táng’ān (堂安) Head the other way out of Zhàoxīng through the fields and two hours later you reach Táng’ān, a village so essentially Dong it’s been named a living museum.
Bāshā 岜沙
%0855 / Pop 2000
Visiting historic Bāshā (岜沙) is like stepping back in time to the Tang or Song eras. The local men wear period clothes with daggers secured to their belts and, when not farming, hunt with antique rifles. Meanwhile, the women parade in full Miao rig with their hair twisted in a curl on top of their heads.
A collection of six hamlets sprawls across a beautiful valley, with Chinese–English signs pointing the way to the various places of interest. The surrounding countryside is superb. You might also be able to arrange a hunting trip with the men.
Entrance to the village is ¥80 and there are two cultural performances each day for most of the year. Very modern Cóngjiāng (从江) is 7.5km away.
You can find very rudimentary rooms for ¥30, but there are a few decent options, too. Alternatively, you can spend the night in Cóngjiāng.
Family-run Gǔfēngzhài Qīngnián Lǚguǎn (古风寨青年旅馆 %138 8554 9720; dm ¥50, tw/d ¥128/168; iW) is the pick of the village. The views of the surrounding valley alone are worth the stay, but there's also real pride in the presentation of the modest private rooms and spotless dorms. Walk down the path to the left of the village square to find it.
Bāshā has a couple of basic, but yummy suāntāngyú (酸汤鱼; sour fish soup) restaurants.
A few orange and grey minibuses run between Cóngjiāng and Bāshā early in the morning and late in the afternoon (¥5). Otherwise, you'll have to take a taxi (it’s a very steep walk up to the village).
The return trip should cost ¥70; you'll need the driver to wait for you.
Léishān 雷山
%0855
The village of Léishān (雷山) is usually used as a transit point, but you can also head to 2178m Léigōng Shān (雷公山; Leigong Mountain ¥100) for some hiking and to explore several charming settlements.
Several interesting villages near Léishān include the attractive Miao village of Wūdōng (乌东). Other nearby Miao settlements include Páikǎ (排卡; Páikǎ Miáozhài), around 3km south of Léishān, where lúshēng bamboo and reed musical instruments have been handmade for centuries.
There are no options to sleep here; try Xījiāng if you want the village experience, or head back to Kǎilǐ.
Your eating choices are limited to a few street stalls during the day.
From Kǎilǐ, there are numerous buses to Léishān (¥14, one hour).
Lónglǐ 隆里
%0855
Stranded in splendid isolation amid fields and rice paddies near the Húnán border, Lónglǐ (隆里) is a former garrison town populated by the descendants of Han soldiers sent to protect the empire from the pesky Miao. One of the province’s ‘eco-museums’ – that is, a real-live village – it’s fascinating for its extant architecture.
Enter Lónglǐ via the East Gate (Dōngmén) and take an hour's stroll to savour its warren of narrow cobblestone streets, mostly wooden houses, lovely courtyards, pavilions, temples and town walls. The surrounding area is prime for exploration by bicycle, too.
A few basic guesthouses are located just outside the old town.
Lónglǐ Gǔchéng Jiǔdiàn (隆里古城酒店 %136 3855 4888, 0855 718 0018; tw ¥80) has basic rooms with squat toilets; it's located to the left of the East Gate entrance to Lónglǐ.
Coming from Kǎilǐ is rather arduous as there’s no direct bus. You'll need to first take a bus to Jǐnpíng (锦屏; ¥91, two hours), then switch to another bus (¥16, 1½ hours, half-hourly or so from 7.30am to around 5pm) to Lónglǐ.
Xījiāng 西江
%0855 / Population 5000
Xījiāng (西江), tucked away in the undulating greenery of Léigōng Mountain west of the Báishui River, is the largest Miao village in China at roughly 1200 wooden homes. Like many neighbouring Miao villages, the village is famous for its embroidery and silver ornaments (the Miao believe that silver can dispel evil spirits).
The town has upgraded to the next level of tourism whereby creature comforts and improving infrastructure come with the air-conditioned buses. The dances and clothing are stunning though, and a minute's walk in any direction takes you to lush paddies, wooden diàojiǎolóu (traditional handcrafted houses), water buffalo and seemingly year-round mist.
Entry to the village is ¥100.
1Sights
When the sun obliges, Xījiāng is lovely. Head away from the village on paths that weave through rice paddies, sidestepping farmers and water buffalo, and recharge your soul in the surrounding hills. A lovely trek is the 50-minute hike past terraced fields and rice paddies over the hills to Kāijué Miao Village (开觉苗寨; Kāijué Miáozhài) and Kāijué Waterfall (开觉瀑布; Kāijué Pùbù) a bit further beyond.
There’s also a three-day trek from Xījiāng to Páiyáng (排羊), a Miao village north of Xījiāng. This trail winds its way through some remote minority villages and lush scenery. You will probably find accommodation with locals en route, but you shouldn’t expect it, so come prepared to sleep under the stars.
4Sleeping & Eating
Many families in Xījiāng offer rooms from ¥50. There's also an increasing number of quality guesthouses.
There are a number of cheap and yummy restaurants run by local families here.
Miao Family GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(苗寨人家; Miáo Zhài Rénjiā %0855 334 8688; tw ¥188)
This guesthouse has clean, comfortable rooms with hot water. It's across the river on the eastern side of Xījiāng.
998HOSTEL$
(%0855 334 871; dm/r ¥25/40)
This bohemian residence is pretty and quiet (when the owner is not rocking the acoustic guitar), though bathrooms are a little scratchy. The communal landing with cushions is a fun place to meet other travellers.
GǔzàngtóujiāINN$
(鼓藏头家 %136 3809 5568; r ¥50-100)
Lean and fresh wooden rooms occupy a traditional building opposite the historic Gǔzángtáng, an ancestral home which houses drums used in festivals. It’s run by an old man who speaks nary a word of English. Call ahead and he'll meet you.
8Information
The tourist infrastructure runs to a performance square, English signposts, souvenir shops, an ATM taking foreign cards (sometimes) and even a few cafes with wi-fi. Head to the western side of the village for a more authentic experience. Come evening, when the day trippers have disappeared, the village reverts to a more traditional pace of life.
8Getting There & Around
From Kǎilǐ, buses run hourly between 8.40am and 5.40pm; there are hourly buses back to Kǎilǐ from 8.30am to 5.30pm. Alternatively, heading south and east towards Guǎngxī, there are regular buses to Léishān (¥11, 1½ hours, 6.30am to 5.40pm), from where you can head south towards Róngjiāng (榕江). There are also two buses a day to Guìyáng's east bus station (¥80, four hours, 9am and 3pm).
From the village's ticket office, buses (¥5) run to the village itself.
Zhàoxīng 肇兴
%0855 / Pop 4000
Zhàoxīng (肇兴) has emerged from its stunning natural seclusion as a drawcard for visitors looking to experience life in a Dong vilage. The traditional wooden housing is overshadowed only by the 'wind and rain' bridges, reminiscent of a fantasy epic. Then there are the five drum towers that call forth generations of ritual and celebration.
Away from the main street, Zhàoxīng remains a working farming village, where most people still speak only their native Dong language and little has changed for generations.
Entry to the village is ¥100.
4Sleeping & Eating
A
ny number of quasi-inns and guesthouses around the village offer rooms from ¥50.
The restaurants on the main street have English menus – which you might find helpful for decoding dishes, as they eat rat (老鼠肉; lǎoshǔ ròu) in this area.
Wàngjiāng Lóu HostelGUESTHOUSE$
(望江楼客栈; Wàngjiānglóu Kèzhàn %0855 613 0269; tw & d ¥100; aiW)
Family-run place by the river, with fresh and clean wooden rooms featuring hot showers and sit-down toilets.
Indigo LodgeLODGE$$
(%139 7106 1291; d from ¥255; aW)
Indigo is indicative of the increasing professionalism of the Dong villages in catering to the travel community: hip, understated luxury; impeccable customer service (in English); and a real understanding of how to maximise your visit to the region. Lit up at night, it's a beauty. Expect copycat operations in the near future.
Zhàoxīng BīnguǎnHOTEL$$
(肇兴宾馆 %0855 613 0899; tw & d ¥228-398; aW)
Spotless rooms with tiny but gleaming bathrooms. If it's not booked out by tour groups, you can usually score a 25% discount.
8Getting There & Away
Getting here from Kǎilǐ is a slog. First you have to travel by bus to Cóngjiāng (¥110, 4½ hours, five daily from 9am to 4pm) and then change for a bus to Zhàoxīng (¥19, two hours, 7.50am and 1pm). From Lípíng (黎平), there are five buses daily (¥25, 3½ hours, 8.20am to 2.50pm).
Heading out of Zhàoxīng, there are two morning buses (¥19, 7.30am and noon) to Cóngjiāng. If you're heading to Sānjiāng (三江) in Guǎngxī, you'll need to change buses in Lípíng (¥25, four daily, 7.20am, 9am, 10am, 1pm) or Cóngjiāng, where there are frequent buses to Guìlín (¥82), too.
Zhènyuǎn 镇远
%0855 / Pop 60,000
Zhènyuǎn (镇远) is the highlight for many visitors to southern China thanks to its unruffled charm, high density of historical sights, gorgeous locale by the Wǔyáng River (Wǔyáng Hé), and relative obscurity in the eyes of international travellers. (In some neighbouring provinces, places half as delightful draw twice the number of visitors.)
A former outpost on the trade route from Yúnnán to Húnán, Zhènyuǎn also features a great gorge cruise which makes a smart alternative to the bigger – and frankly less charming – Three Gorges option to the northeast.
Zhènyuǎn
1Sights
1City WallsB2
2Confucius TempleC2
3Fire God TempleC2
4Four Officials TempleC1
5Miáojiāng Great WallC1
6Qīnglóng DòngD2
7Shípíng ShānC1
8Sifangjing XiangC2
9Tianhou TempleB1
10Zhùshèng BridgeC2
4Sleeping
11Dàhéguān HotelC2
12Deyin HotelB2
13Héjiā Dàyuàn KèzhànB2
14Jiangnanyuan InnC2
15Liúfúlán JiǔdiànC2
Tiānhòugōng Youth HostelB1
5Eating
16Gǔchéng ZhēngjiǎoC2
Yǒngfúróng InnC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
17Man Man's Little Space CaféC2
8Information
18Zhènyuǎn Tourist & Information CentreB2
Transport
19Zhènyuǎn Ferry Ticket OfficeC2
1Sights
Sifangjing XiangAREA
(四方井巷 MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Four old and well-preserved alleys lead north away from the river: Sifangjing Xiang, Fuxing Xiang, Renshou Xiang and Chongzikou Xiang. Wander along Sifangjing Xiang and peek at its namesake Sìfāngjǐng (Four Directions Well), with its three deities overlooking the water, capped with red cloths. Note the magnificently made stone steps of this alley and the gorgeous old residences – a picture at night, when they're dressed with red lanterns.
Qīnglóng DòngTEMPLE, HISTORIC SITE
(青龙洞; Green Dragon Cave MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥60; h7.30am-6pm)
Across the river from the old town, the epic vertical warren of temples, grottoes, corridors and caves of Qīnglóng Dòng rises up against Zhōnghé Mountain (Zhōnghé Shān; 中和山). Flooded with lights at night, it forms a sublime backdrop to the town. Put aside a good hour for exploration: it’s a labyrinth and there’s a lot to see, including some choice panoramas.
Tiānhòu TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(天后宫; Tiānhòu Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This 'Temple of the Queen of Heaven' is a 16th-century temple complex on the north of the river, and the best preserved of a series built by Fujianese merchants.
Miáojiāng Great WallWALLS
(苗疆长城; Miáojiāng Chángchéng; Miao Border Great Wall MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥30)
There’s an energetic half-hour climb above town, past the Four Officials Temple (四官殿; Sìguān Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ) to the top of Shípíng Shān (石屏山 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), to the remains of this 16th-century wall built to protect Zhènyuǎn. Get up really early or leave it late in the day and you could get a jump on ticket collectors. Undulating across peaks, the wall is quite substantial and offers glorious views ranging over town.
Zhùshèng BridgeBRIDGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The most photographed sight in town, Zhènyuǎn’s old bridge (祝圣桥; Zhùshèng Qiáo) is a gorgeous and robust span of arches topped with a three-storey pavilion, leading visitors across the water to Qīnglóng Dòng. It's an impressive sight. Views along the river from the bridge at night are serene, with Qīnglóng Dòng splendidly lit up.
Fire God TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(炎帝宫; Yándì Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Small, obscured temple housing the fearsome deities Yandi and the Fire God himself.
City WallsHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The old city walls on the south side of the Wǔyáng River have been restored and you can walk a considerable way along them towards the train station. In the other direction you'll reach a 14th-century arch, where lots of kids swim in summer.
Confucius TempleCONFUCIAN TEMPLE
(文庙; Wénmiào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shuncheng Jie; 顺城街 )
Now pretty much a block of flats from the 1960s, little remains of the Confucius Temple except for its main facade and the Lǐ Mén (Gate of Rites).
TTours
River cruises (¥40 for 35 minutes, 8.30am to 9.30pm) are available here; buy tickets at the office next to Yǔmén Wharf, which is identifiable by the decorative arch.
Travel agents line Xinglong Jie; you should also be able to book tours around the area through your hotel.
4Sleeping
There are rooms everywhere in the old town, with new guesthouses opening up steadily, often above restaurants. Don’t expect any spoken English. Rooms south of the river get the amplified sound of trains rumbling by. Ask for discounts.
Déyīn HotelHOTEL$
(德音驿站; Déyīn Yìzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0855 217 0888; 70 Xinzhong Jie; 新中街70号 tw & d ¥178-198; aW)
Terrific value: modern rooms with soft mattresses, quality linen and stylish bathroom sinks. The top-floor rooms have river views.
Tiānhòugōng Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(镇远天后宫青年客栈; Zhènyuǎn Tiānhòugōng Qīngnián Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 天后宫; Tianhougong dm ¥50)
Set inside the grounds of Tiānhòu Temple, this small hostel is popular with local hikers. It has clean dormitories and, as expected, a very peaceful feel. There are some stairs to negotiate.
Jiāngnányuàn InnINN$$
(江南苑客棧江; Jiāngnányuàn Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhou Jie; 周街 d from ¥288; paW)
A surprisingly stylish new hotel on the southern side of the river. Rooms have a distinctly Ming-era feel, with cool stone floors and simple wooden furniture and panelling. The beds are soft and the pillows are fluffy, which can be hard to find in these parts.
Liúfúlán JiǔdiànHOTEL$$
(刘胡兰酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0855
572 0586; Xinglong Jie; 兴隆街 r ¥180-260; aiW)
This excellent option overlooking the river has lovely wooden window frames and spacious terraces. Beware: no Western toilets.
oDàhéguān HotelHOTEL$$$
(大河关宾馆; Dàhéguān Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0855 571 0188; Shuncheng Jie; 顺城街 tw & d ¥380-680; aW)
The faux-period wooden courtyard at the Dàhéguān passes the authenticity test well enough, but it's the corner location, classy finishing and luxurious beds that help make this the best hotel in town.
Héjiā Dàyuàn KèzhànHOTEL$$$
(何家大院客栈 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0855 572 3770; 8 Chongzikou Xiang; 冲子口巷8号 tw/d ¥388/428; aW)
This traditional courtyard hotel has pleasant rooms in a lovely old property tucked up an alley leading away from the river. Discounts should be available.
5Eating
Yǒngfúróng InnCHINESE$
(永芙蓉客棧; Yǒngfúróng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xinglong Jie; 兴隆街 mains from ¥30)
Busy restaurant overlooking the river, with some English spoken. Guìzhōu cuisine here can be made light on the chilli if requested. Rooms (from ¥180) are also available upstairs.
Lonely Planet China Page 132
