Gǔchéng ZhēngjiǎoDUMPLINGS$
(古城蒸饺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xinglong Jie; 兴隆街 mains ¥9; hnoon-2am)
Right next to Yǔmén Wharf, this very simple restaurant does lovely jiānjiǎo (fried dumplings) and is a cheap place for a beer.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Man Man’s Little Space CaféCAFE
(漫漫的小宇宙; Mànmàn dē Xiǎoyǔzhòu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 41 Zhou Dajie; 周大街41号 )
Amiable, easygoing place for a coffee or evening beer right by the river. Also does a few small Chinese dishes (from ¥18). Look for the yellow lantern.
8Information
Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK
(农业银行; Nóngyè Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Xinglong Jie; 兴隆街 h9am-5pm)
ATM takes foreign cards; opposite Zhènyuǎn Museum.
Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaBANK
(ICBC; 工商银行; Gōngshāng Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Xinglong Jie; 兴隆街 h9am-5pm)
ATM takes foreign cards.
Post OfficePOST
(中国邮政 GOOGLE MAP ; Xinglong Jie; 兴隆街 h9am-6pm)
You can book train tickets here (if more than three days in advance) for a commission (¥15).
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; Xinglong Jie; 兴隆街 h8.30-11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm)
Across from Yǔmén Wharf.
Shénzhōu Internet CafeINTERNET
(神舟网吧; Shénzhōu Wǎngbā GOOGLE MAP ; per hr ¥3; h24hr)
On the south side of the Xīndà Bridge, by the wall.
Zhènyuǎn Tourist & Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(镇远旅游咨询服务中心; Zhènyuǎn Lǚyóu Zīxún Fúwù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xinzhong Jie; 新中街 h8am-8pm)
Good for maps of Zhènyuǎn (¥10).
8Getting There & Away
The best way to reach Zhènyuǎn from Guìyáng is by train. Plunging into the far east of Guìzhōu from Kǎilǐ to Zhènyuǎn, the train traverses an astonishing panorama of surging peaks and hills densely cloaked with trees. The train station (huǒchēzhàn) is on the south of the river in the southwest of town, not far from Wǔyánghé Bridge (Wǔyánghé Dàqiáo). It’s a good 20-minute walk to the old town from the train station, so either book your ticket out of Zhènyuǎn when you arrive or ask your hotel owner to book one for you (they will need to take your passport to do this, however). You can book tickets more than three days in advance at the post office for a commission (¥15). Trains from Zhènyuǎn include the following:
AĀnshùn ¥54, 5½ hours, eight daily
AGuìyáng ¥42, 3¾ hours, regular
AHuáihuà ¥29, 2½ hours, regular
AKǎilǐ ¥15, 1¼ hours, regular
AYùpíng ¥13, one hour, regular
The bus station (chángtú qìchēzhàn) is opposite the train station. Bus services include:
ABàojīng ¥13, three daily (10.20am, 12.30pm and 3.20pm)
AKǎilǐ ¥21, six daily (8.30am to 4.30pm)
ATóngrén ¥55, two daily (11am and 3pm)
Yǔmén WharfBOAT
(禹门码头; Yǔmén Mǎtóu GOOGLE MAP )
Starting point for river cruises (¥40 for 35 minutes, 8.30am to 9.30pm).
8Getting Around
A taxi to the old town from the train station costs ¥8, or else you can walk it in about 20 minutes. A ferry ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥1; h6am-7.30pm) can punt you across the river.
Around Zhènyuǎn
Tiěxī Gorge 铁溪
Tiěxī GorgeGORGE
(¥50)
A trip to the pleasant Tiěxī Gorge (铁溪) offers the chance to plunge along rocky trails shaded by overhanging trees. Don't miss the Dragon Pool (龙潭; Lóngtán) and Jīguān Mountain (鸡冠岭; Jīguān Lǐng). Food vendors are scattered along the 2½-hour walk to the mountain, ensuring you won't go hungry.
Get here by buggy (¥6, 20 minutes) from the western end of Zhùshèng Bridge in Zhènyuǎn; vehicles depart when full. This is an excellent, intimate alternative to the Three Gorges.
Bàojīng 报京
Bàojīng (报京) is a Dong minority village with fine exampes of diàojiǎolóu architecture. The village is also known for its seed-sowing festival (播种节; bōzhǒngjié) – held on the third day of the third lunar month, it's a lively celebration of dancing and courtship rituals.
Bàojīng is located 40km from Zhènyuǎn. Three buses (¥13, 10.20am, 12.30pm and 3.20pm) run there daily from Zhènyuǎn's bus station.
Western Guìzhōu
Ānshùn 安顺
%0853 / Pop 765,310
Ānshùn (安顺) is an unassuming provincial city which makes a convenient base for travel around western Guìzhōu. The prime attraction is Hóngshān Lake, especially when lit up at night; it's fringed by a gorgeous walking track leading up to two temples. Once a marvellous historical city ringed by a town wall, the city’s heritage has largely vanished and now it’s the surrounding sights that are the real draws. Shoppers can look out for batik, kitchen knives and the lethal Ānjiǔ brand of alcohol.
Ānshùn
1Sights
1Dōnglín TempleB2
2Fǔwén MiàoA2
3Lóngwáng MiàoA2
4Sleeping
4Double Tree Hilton AnshunA1
5Péngchéng BīnguǎnB4
6Xīxiùshān BīnguǎnB3
5Eating
7Ānshùn Night MarketB2
8Liúyìshǒu KǎoyúA2
1Sights
Lóngwáng MiàoBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(龙王庙 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-5.30pm)F
A working Buddhist temple, just off Zhonghua Beilu.
Dōnglín TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(东林寺; Dōnglín Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 134 Gonghe Lu; 共和路134号 h8am-5pm)F
The resident Buddhist monks welcome visitors warmly to this temple, which was built in AD 1405 (during the Ming dynasty) and restored in 1668.
Fǔwén MiàoCONFUCIAN TEMPLE
(府文庙 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10; h7.30am-midnight)
Check out this charming Confucian temple in the north of town. It has some stunningly intricate cloud-scrolling carvings on the twin stone pillars before the main hall.
Túnpǔ Culture MuseumMUSEUM
(屯堡文化博物馆; Túnpǔ Wénhuà Bówùguǎn through ticket ¥50; h8am-6pm)
Has exhibits relating to the history of the Túnpǔ settlements in the area, and is the required entry point to the Yúnfēng Bāzhài villages. To get here, take a bus (¥5, 40 minutes, every 25 minutes, 7am to 6pm) from Ānshùn’s east bus station. The last bus from Yúnfēng Bāzhài to Ānshùn leaves at 6.20pm, passing through Běnzhài.
4Sleeping
If your Chinese is up to it, try one of the guesthouses (lǚguǎn) near the train station area for a cheap room. Otherwise, stay closer to the lake.
Liu's Express InnINN$
(利悠快捷酒店; Lìyōu Kuàijié Jiǔdiàn %0859 338 8899; Qiánxīnán; 黔西南, Mǎlǐng River Gorge d ¥138; aW)
If you choose to visit Mǎlǐng River Gorge, this tidy, welcoming hotel located in the nearest town is a handy sleeping option.
7 Days Inn Ānshùn Train StationMOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 811 0777; 47 Guihang Xilu; 贵阳西路47号 tw ¥188; aW)
Our favourite Chinese business motel chain has a cookie-cutter branch blissfully close to the train station. Not a lot of space in the clean rooms, but the bright green wallpaper, writing desks and shiny floorboards more than compensate. (Besides, you probably don't plan to spend a lot of time here anyway.)
Pearl HotelHOTEL$$
(珍珠飯店; Zhēnzhū Fàndiàn GOOGLE MAP ; 198 Xihang Lu; 西航路198号 tw from ¥248; aW)
Large beds, fastidious cleaners and very friendly management put the Pearl above its rivals in the midrange category. Small desks and quality bathroom products are nice touches, too. Simple breakfast is included.
Xīxiùshān BīnguǎnHOTEL$$
&nb
sp; (西秀山宾馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 333 7888; 63 Zhonghua Nanlu; 中华南路63号 s, d & tw ¥288-388; aW)
A pleasant point of difference here is the variety of rooms across three buildings. Go for one near the garden courtyard, or nab a suite if you feel the need to stretch out. The premises are invariably spotless, though a few corners are starting to fade. Check the wi-fi in your room before committing.
Double Tree Hilton ĀnshùnHOTEL$$$
(安顺百灵希尔顿逸林酒店; Ānshùn Bǎilíng Xīěrdùn Yìlín Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 3366 9666; www.doubletree3.hilton.com; 42 Hongshanhu Lu; 虹山湖路42号 d from ¥700; aiWs)
This gigantic hotel towering over Hóngshān Lake like a grounded spaceship is the only high-end option in Ānshùn, so it's a good thing that it's quietly fabulous. Views from the plush lake rooms are stunning, especially at night, and the pool, gym and yoga studio are all first-class. The international breakfast buffet will fill you for the day.
5Eating
By far the best place to eat is the night market – it’s the most happening spot in Ānshùn, with locals crowding out the many food tents and stalls that set up here. There are hotpot places on nearby Nan Shui Lu. The northern side of Hóngshān Lake has some charming small cafes that serve basic food.
Ānshùn Night MarketMARKET$
(安顺夜市; Ānshùn Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gufu Jie; 顾府街 dishes from ¥10; h5pm-late)
Ānshùn's number-one attraction is this vibrant night market, where locals gather around plastic tables and in small restaurants to sample strange lake critters, skewers of vegetable and tofu, fresh siwawa (local pancakes), barbecued fish (烤鱼; kǎoyú), sizzling snails, pigs’ trotters and fruit salad soaking in jelly soup. Electronic music blares in the entrance while everyone feasts and drinks stiff liquor.
Liúyìshǒu KǎoyúSEAFOOD$
(留一手烤鱼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hongqi Lu; 红旗路 fish per jīn from ¥30; h6pm-late)
Packed during night-market hours – when the restaurant fills its premises on Hongqi Lu and spills onto tables flung out on Gufu Jie – this heaving eatery specialises in tasty grilled fish. It’s best to dine as a group, as fish weights start at around three jīn (which is 1.8kg).
LOCAL SPECIALITIES
The speciality at Ānshùn's night market is barbecued fish (kǎoyú), while Uighur chefs feature snails sizzling up in woks and proudly displayed pigs’ trotters. Another local speciality is qiáoliángfěn (乔凉粉), a spicy dish made from buckwheat noodles and preserved bean curd. A good on-the-run snack is chōngchōng gāo (冲冲糕), a cake made from steamed sticky rice with sesame and walnut seeds and sliced wax gourd. Also look out for plates of fried potatoes, hawked at the roadside, which taste like chips; locals call them yángyì.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Tashan Xilu & Zhonghua Nanlu; 踏山西路·中華南路 h9am-5pm)
Offers all services and has an ATM. There are many other ATMs around town.
Post OfficePOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Zhonghua Nanlu & Tashan Donglu; 中華南路·踏山東路 )
Look for it tucked next to the China Telecom building.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The north bus station (客车北站; kèchē běizhàn) has buses (¥34, three hours, every 20 minutes, 7am to 6pm) to Zhījīn town (for Zhījīn Cave). Almost every other bus now leaves from the east bus station (东客运站; dōng kèyùnzhàn). Bus 16 (¥1) runs here from Zhonghua Nanlu opposite the Xīxiùshān Bīnguǎn; a taxi is ¥25 to ¥30.
AGuìyáng ¥35, 1½ hours, every 20 minutes (7.10am to 7.10pm)
AHuángguǒshù ¥20, one hour, every 20 minutes (7.20am to 7pm)
AKūnmíng (sleeper) ¥150, 10 hours, four daily (9am, 10.40am, 1pm and 4pm)
ALónggōng Caves ¥10, 40 minutes, every 30 minutes (7.30am to 6pm)
APíngbà ¥15, 40 minutes, every 30 minutes (7.30am to 6.30pm)
AShuǐchéng ¥60, 3½ hours, every 50 minutes (8.20am to 4.40pm)
AWēiníng ¥90, five to six hours, one daily (10am)
AYúnfēng ¥5, 40 minutes, every 30 minutes (7.30am to 6pm)
Train
Most trains from the train station (huǒchēzhàn) heading east stop in Guìyáng (¥15, 1½ hours, regular service). It is still hard to get sleeper reservations for trains from here; pick them up in Guìyáng instead. There's a train ticket office a few hundred metres north of the train station on Zhonghua Nanlu. Destinations include the following:
ACǎohǎi (for Wēiníng) ¥38, three to five hours, six daily
AGuìyáng ¥16, 1½ hours, regular service
AKǎilǐ ¥44, four hours, 15 daily
AKūnmíng seat/sleeper ¥75/142, eight to 10 hours
ALiùpánshuǐ ¥24, 2½ hours, regular
8Getting Around
Bus 1 zips around town from the train station and up Tashan Donglu. Bus 2 travels between the train station and the north bus station. Bus 16 runs from Zhonghua Nanlu to the east bus station. Buses cost ¥1.
Taxi flag fall is ¥6.
Around Ānshùn
Lónggōng Cave 龙宫洞
Lónggōng CaveCAVE
(龙宫洞; Lónggōng Dòng; Dragon Palace ¥150; h8.30am-5.30pm)
Even though the feeling is overwhelmingly tacky – think coloured lights, awkward commentary and boats full of tourists – there is something sublime about the water-borne cave expedition winding through 20 hills. There are add-on costs to be aware of, too: Tiger Cave (¥50) and the 'elevator ride' (¥50) between caves, both of which are kind of hard to avoid. Lónggōng is 23km south of Ānshùn and an easy day trip from there.
Local buses (¥10, 40 minutes) depart every 30 minutes from Ānshùn's east bus station from 7.30am. For the return trip, buses leave until about 5pm.
Zhījīn Cave 织金洞
Zhījīn CaveCAVE
(织金洞; Zhījīn Dòng ¥150; h8.30am-5.30pm)
This monstrously long (10km) cave is the biggest in the country – a visit will satisfy everyone from hardcore spelunkers to wide-eyed tourists with a penchant for subterranean beauty. Pockets open up to 150m high to reveal Zhījīn's organic splendour twisting upward like a stone forest.
Tickets to the cave, which is 15km outside Zhījīn and 125km north of Ānshùn, include a compulsory 2½-hour Chinese-only tour (minimum 10 people). The tour covers some 6km of the cave, up steep, slippery steps at times, and there are English captions at the main points along the way. Solo travellers visiting outside peak summer months or Chinese holidays should be prepared for what can be a tedious wait for enough people to roll up to form a group.
A long day trip from Ānshùn is possible, but you'll need to be on an early bus to Zhījīn (¥34, three hours, from 7am), from Ānshùn's north bus station. Once there, hop a taxi (¥4) to the local bus station on Yuping Jie and catch one of the minibuses that leave regularly for the cave entrance (¥8, 50 minutes). Returning from the caves, buses leave regularly; the last bus back to Ānshùn heads out of Zhījīn at 5.30pm.
From Guìyáng, regular buses (return ¥110, four hours, 6.30am to 5.20pm) depart every 30 minutes to Zhījīn from the long-distance bus station.
Huángguǒshù Falls 黄果树大瀑布
Huángguǒshù FallsWATERFALL
(黄果树大瀑布; Huángguǒshù Dàpùbù; Yellow Fruit Tree Falls Mar-Oct ¥180, Nov-Feb ¥160; h7.30am-6pm)
Hugely popular among domestic travellers for good reason, Huángguǒshù Falls are one of many cascades gushing around a pristine national park where sublime walking trails lead to stunning views. The 77.8m-tall, 81m-wide dàpùbù is understandably Guìzhōu’s number-one natural attraction. From May to October in particular, these falls really rock the local landscape with their cacophony, while rainbows from the mist dance about Rhinoceros Pool below and colourful peacocks show off their dazzling plumage.
The cascades are actually par
t of a 450-sq-km cave and karst complex discovered when engineers explored the area in the 1980s to gauge the region’s hydroelectric potential. Hiking here can get crowded on weekends, but it's well worth the occasional jostle.
Don’t miss groping your way through the dripping natural corridor in the rock face of the 134m-long Water Curtain Cave (水帘洞; Shuǐlián Dòng), behind Huángguǒshù itself. Going underground into the colossal caves within the geological Tiānxīng Qiáo Scenic Zone (天星桥景区; Tiānxīng Qiáo Jǐngqū) is a quite awe-inspiring sideshow, especially if you do not have time for the Lónggōng or Zhījīn Caves.
To get around you’ll really need to buy a ticket for one of the sightseeing cars (guānguāngchē; ¥50), located near the entrance, which can then be flagged down anywhere inside the park. It's an effective system as the cars are in fact registered taxis that link the main areas, including Dǒupōtáng Waterfall, Lúosītān Waterfall, Tiānxīng Qiáo Scenic Zone and the Main Waterfall Scenic Zone.
You can do Huángguǒshù Falls as a day trip from Guìyáng at a push, while it’s an easy one from Ānshùn. There are accommodation options everywhere in Huángguǒshù village, but there is little need to overnight here.
Lonely Planet China Page 133
