Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Swallow’s Cavern 燕子洞

  Swallow’s CavernCAVE

  (燕子洞; Yànzǐ Dòng ¥80; h9am-5pm)

  This freak of nature and ornithology is halfway between Jiànshuǐ and Gèjiù. The karst formations (the largest in Asia) are a lure, but what you'll want to see are the hundreds of thousands of swallows flying around in spring and summer. The cave is split into two – one high and dry, the other low and wet. The higher cave is so large that a three-storey pavilion and a tree fit inside.

  Plank walkways link up; the Lú River runs through the lower cave for about 8km and you can tour the caverns in 'dragon-boats'.

  There's no direct bus, but the ones bound for Méngzì, Kāiyuán or Gèjiù which don't take the expressway pass the cavern (¥11, one hour).

  Yuányáng Rice Terraces 元阳梯田

  %0873 / Pop 22,700

  Picture hilltop villages, the only things visible above rolling fog and cloud banks, an artist’s palette of colours at sunrise and sunset, spirit-recharging treks through centuries-old rice-covered hills, with a few water buffalo eyeing you contentedly nearby. Yes, it’s hard not to become indulgent when describing these tītián (梯田; rice terraces), hewn from the rolling topography by the Hani throughout the centuries. They cover roughly 125 sq km and are one of Yúnnán’s most stunning sights.

  Yuányáng (元阳) is actually split into two: Nánshà, the new town, and Xīnjiē, the old town an hour’s bus or minivan ride up a nearby hill. Either can be labelled Yuányáng, depending what map you use. Xīnjiē is the one you want, so make sure you get off there.

  1Sights

  The terraces around dozens of outlying villages have their own special characteristics, often changing with the daylight. Bilingual maps are available at all hotels in town. Bear in mind that the tītián are at their most extraordinary in winter when they are flooded with water which the light bounces off in spectacular fashion. Avoid visiting at Chinese public holidays, when prices for minibuses go sky-high (¥600 and more per day).

  A combined ¥100 ticket gets you access to Duōyīshù, Bádá, Quánfúzhuāng and Měngpǐn.

  Duōyīshù Rice TerraceHILL

  (多依树梯田; Duōyīshù Tītián )

  Located about 25km from Xīnjiē, this rice terrace has the most awesome sunrises and, of all those at Yuányáng, is the one you should not miss.

  Měngpǐn Rice TerraceHILL

  (勐品梯田; Měngpǐn Tītián )

  Among the rice terraces at Yuányáng, Měngpǐn, also known as Lǎohǔzuǐ (老虎嘴), is one of the most mesmerising places to watch the sunset.

  Quánfúzhuāng Rice TerraceHILL

  (全福庄梯田; Quánfúzhuāng Tītián )

  Quánfúzhuāng is a less-crowded alternative to Duōyīshù and has easy access via trails that reach the terraces.

  Bàdá Rice TerraceHILL

  (坝达梯田; Bàdá Tītián )

  Bàdá is one of the finest rice terraces at Yuányáng to catch a sunset.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Xīnjiē and Pǔgāolǎo are where most hotels and guesthouses are. Of the two places, Pǔgāolǎo is by far the nicer place to stay.

  Almost all restaurants are concentrated in Xīnjiē. In Pǔgāolǎo, all guesthouses serve meals, although they can be pricey.

  8Getting There & Away

  Xīnjiē is the main transport hub for Yuányáng, with daily buses from the bus station to and from Kūnmíng, Jiànshuǐ and Hékǒu, as well as minivans to the surrounding villages. There are also many buses to the same destinations from Nánshà, an hour away from Xīnjiē by minivan.

  While buses run to all the villages from the bus station, you are much better off arranging your own transport, or hooking up with other travellers to split the cost of a sunrise or sunset drive. Minivans and motor-rickshaws congregate around Yúntī Shùnjié Dàjiǔdiàn and on the street west of the bus station. Expect to pay ¥400 to ¥500 in peak season for a minivan. Less comfortable motor-rickshaws can be got for ¥250.

  Xīnjiē 新街

  %0873 / Pop 15,000

  Xīnjiē (新街) is a bit grubby, but makes a useful base for exploring the Yuányáng Rice Terraces (元阳梯田). The bus station is a minute’s walk from Titian Sq, the town’s hub.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  You're not spoiled for choice here, with only a couple of budget and midrange hotels in the centre of town. There are a number of places around the bus station where rooms can be found for ¥40 and up.

  Yǐngyǒuliàn JiǔdiànHOTEL$

  (影友恋酒店 %159 8737 4367; caihuimei2006@163.com; r ¥33-80; W)

  It's basic (the price is a clue), but some rooms have Western toilets and the wi-fi connection is strong. Owner Belinda speaks good English and is helpful when it comes to arranging transport to the outlying villages. To get here, walk up the road from the bus station for five minutes and it's on your left.

  Yúntī Shùnjié DàjiǔdiànHOTEL$

  (云梯顺捷大酒店 %0873 562 1588; Xīnjiē; d ¥188; W)

  Just off Titian Sq and a few minutes from the bus station, this place is the best of the centrally located hotels with clean and compact rooms. Wi-fi, though, is only available in the lobby. Prices go up during festival periods.

  7Shopping

  Window of YuányángARTS & CRAFTS

  (%0873 562 3627)

  Do visit this place, down the steps from the main square (on the 2nd floor of a building on your right). Staff here work in sustainable economic development in local villages. Volunteers are very friendly and helpful. Great locally produced items are here too (not to mention coffee!).

  8Information

  Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

  (中国农业银行; Zhōngguó Nóngyè Yínháng )

  Has an ATM that sometimes takes foreign cards: don't rely on it. To find it, head down the stairs by the entrance to Yúntī Shùnjié Dàjiǔdiàn and walk on for a couple of minutes; it’s on the left-hand side.

  8Getting There & Away

  There are four buses daily from Kūnmíng to Yuányáng (¥139, seven hours, 10.20am, 11am, 12.30pm and 6.30pm); these return at 9.05am, 12.30pm and 6.30pm (although the 12.30pm bus sometimes doesn't run in low season). Other destinations include Hékǒu (¥59, four hours, 7.30am and 10.10am) and Jiànshuǐ (¥44, three hours, one daily, 4.30pm). Note that many more buses run to Jiànshuǐ from nearby Nánshà. There are frequent minivans to Nánshà (¥10, one hour) from outside the bus station.

  To forge on to Xīshuāngbǎnnà, catch any minivan to Nánshà, where there's a daily bus in high season (October to March) to Jǐnghóng at 3.30pm (¥178, eight hours). Otherwise, you have to backtrack to Jiànshuǐ and catch the twice-daily Jǐnghóng sleepers (¥225, 1pm and 4pm) from there.

  From Xīnjiē, minivans leave when full to Duōyīshù’s Pǔgāolǎo village for ¥15.

  Pǔgāolǎo 普高老

  %0873 / Pop 780

  Increasing numbers of travellers are now basing themselves in picturesque Pǔgāolǎo (普高老) in Duōyīshù (多依树), a Hani village an hour by minivan from Xīnjiē. The rice terraces are all around you here and when not gazing out on them, you can experience something of traditional village life as you dodge the water buffalo, chickens and pigs that wander the stone paths of the village. It's a perfect place for catching the sunrise from the roof of your guesthouse.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  There are a growing number of guesthouses in the village, ranging from the basic to the comfortable. Dorm beds can be got from ¥35 and up. Almost all places have roof terraces to watch the sunrise and sunset.

  Belinda's Backpackers GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  (影友漫步客栈; Yǐngyǒumànbù Kèzhàn %159 8737 4367; caihuimei2006@163.com; dm/d ¥35/120; W)

  Like her operation in Xīnjiē, Belinda's guesthouse in Pǔgāolǎo is a little rough and ready, but the roof terrace offers solid views, the private rooms have Western toilets and Belinda's tours of the area – little-visited villages especially – get
good feedback. It's at the top of the village, behind the K2 hostel.

  K2 International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (K2国际青年旅舍; K2 Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %137 6949 8158; k2yha@163.com; Pǔgāolǎo Village; dm ¥40, d ¥120-130; W)

  The dorms here have good beds, but their bathrooms come with squat toilets. Private rooms have Western toilets and are spartan but clean. The roof terrace here offers OK views. The hostel is at the top of the village, close to the parking area.

  Timeless Hostel YuanyangHOSTEL$

  (久居丽江客栈; Jiǔ Jū Yuányáng Kèzhàn %153 6837 6718; yuangyang.timeless@gmail.com; Pǔgāolǎo Village; dm/d ¥45/148; nW)

  In the heart of the village, with fresh dorms and rooms, a roof terrace with decent views, an amenable communal area and English-speaking staff. Bikes can be hired for ¥30 per day and staff can offer advice on potential hiking routes, as well as organise transport to other villages.

  8Getting There & Away

  Minivans (¥15 per person, one hour) leave from outside Xīnjiē's bus station from 6.30am to 6pm. They return to Xīnjiē on the the same schedule and can be hailed on the main road.

  Xiàguān 下关

  %0872 / Pop 367,122

  Xiàguān (下关), on the southwest shore of Ěrhǎi Lake (Ěrhǎi Hú), is a transport hub for travellers headed to Dàlǐ, a few kilometres further up the highway. Confusingly, Xiàguān is sometimes referred to as Dàlǐ (大理) on tickets, maps and buses.

  There's no reason to stay in Xiàguān – you only need to come here to catch a bus or train (or to extend a visa). If you're waiting for a bus and need to eat, the roads by or close to the two main bus stations – Renmin Zhonglu and Nan Jian Lu – are jammed with restaurants all offering similar menus.

  8Information

  Bank of ChinaBANK

  (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng Jianshe Donglu; h9am-5pm)

  Changes money and travellers cheques, and has an ATM that accepts all major credit cards.

  Public Security BureauPOLICE

  (PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú %0872 214 2149; Tai’an Lu; h8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

  Handles all visa extensions for Xiàguān and Dàlǐ. Take bus 8 from Dàlǐ and ask to get off at the Shi Ji Middle School (世纪中学; Shìjì Zhōngxué).

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Xiàguān’s airport is 15km from the town centre. Buy air tickets online or at an agency in Old Dàlǐ. Seven flights leave daily for Kūnmíng (from ¥430) and one to Xīshuāngbǎnnà (from ¥510).

  No public buses run to the airport; taxis will cost ¥50 from Xiàguān or ¥100 from Dàlǐ.

  Bus

  Xiàguān has four bus stations. The Dàlǐ express bus station (kuàisù kèyùnzhàn) is on Nan Jian Lu. The second main station used by travellers is the Xīngshèng bus station (also called the gǎo kuài kèyùnzhàn). To find it, turn left out of the the express bus station and walk up to the main road and then turn right and it's 200m ahead of you. The third station of interest is the north bus station (běi kèyùnzhàn) on Dali Lu, which is reached by bus 8 (¥2) or a ¥10 taxi ride.

  Remember that when departing, the easiest way to Kūnmíng or Lìjiāng is to get a bus from Old Dàlǐ.

  The following departures are from the Dàlǐ express bus station:

  AChǔxióng ¥75, 2½ hours, every 40 minutes (7.40am to 6.40pm)

  AFúgòng ¥128, eight hours, one daily (11.30am)

  AKūnmíng ¥127, four to five hours, every 30 minutes (8am to 6pm)

  ALiùkù ¥88, five hours, hourly (7.20am to 3.20pm)

  AMángshì (Lùxī) ¥127, six to eight hours, four daily (10am, 11.30am, 1pm and 7.30pm)

  ARuìlì ¥161 to ¥185, eight hours, three daily (8.30am, 3pm and 7.30pm)

  AYúnlóng (for Nuòdèng) ¥39, three hours, every 40 minutes (7.50am to 4.30pm)

  The following departures are from the Xīngshèng bus station:

  ABǎoshān ¥72, 2½ hours, every 40 minutes (7.50am to 7.20pm)

  AKūnmíng ¥137, four to five hours, every 30 minutes (7.20am to 7.30pm)

  ATéngchōng ¥126, six hours, three daily (10am, 1pm and 2pm)

  AWēishān ¥15, 1½ hours, every 20 to 30 minutes (6.30am to 6pm)

  Departures from the north bus station include:

  AJiànchuān (for Shāxī) ¥45, three hours, every 45 minutes (6.25am to 6.50pm)

  AShangri-la ¥106, seven hours, every 30 minutes (6.30am to noon)

  If you want to head to Jǐnghóng (¥221, 15 hours, 8.20am, 9.40am and 11am), you need the east bus station (dōng kèyùnzhàn) by the train station, which also serves destinations on the east side of Ěrhǎi Lake such as Shuāngláng and Wāsè.

  Buses to Old Dàlǐ (¥2, 35 minutes) leave from a number of locations. Bus 8 (¥2, 35 minutes) runs from Jianshe Lu, close to both the express and Xīngshèng bus stations, to a car park at the bottom of Yeyu Lu in Dàlǐ. Bus 4 runs from the centre of Xiàguān past Dàlǐ’s West Gate. There is also an unnumbered bus (¥2, 35 minutes) that leaves from the train station and passes Dàlǐ’s West Gate. If you want to be sure, ask for Dàlǐ gǔchéng (Dali old city).

  Tickets for nearly all destinations can be booked in Dàlǐ and this is often the easiest way to do it as it will save you a trip to Xiàguān (although you will pay a service fee of ¥10 to ¥15).

  Train

  There are nine trains daily from Kūnmíng’s main train station (hard seat/sleeper ¥64/97, six to seven hours, 9.40am to 11.30pm). Returning to Kūnmíng, there are eight daily trains (10.04am to 11.39pm). There are eight trains daily to Lìjiāng (¥34 to ¥49, two to three hours, 4.37am to 5.38pm).

  Wēishān 巍山

  %0872 / Pop 20,700

  Some 55km or so south of Xiàguān, Wēishān (巍山) is the heart of a region populated by Hui and Yi. It was once the nucleus of the powerful Nanzhao kingdom, and from here the Hui rebel Du Wenxiu led an army in revolt against the Qing in the 19th century.

  Today, it’s an attractive and relaxed small town of narrow streets lined with traditional wooden houses, with drum and bell towers at strategic points and a lovely backdrop of the surrounding hills. It's still unspoiled and largely off the traveller map, but a few refugees from Dàlǐ have now begun moving here to open businesses. In the next few years, Wēishān is likely to develop fast as a tourist destination, so get here now before everyone else arrives.

  1Sights

  The town’s central point is the unmistakable Gǒngcháng Tower (拱长楼; Gǒngcháng Lóu ). South from here you’ll come first to Xīnggǒng Tower (星拱楼; Xīnggǒng Lóu ), and then on the right-hand side of the street to Mēnghuà Old Home (蒙化老家; Mēnghuà Lǎojiā ¥10; h8.30am-9pm), the town's best-preserved slice of architecture. Make sure to check out the town's sizeable and well-preserved Confucius Temple (文庙; Wénmiào h8am-7pm): turn right at Xīnggǒng Tower and follow West Street around to find it.

  Wēibǎo ShānMOUNTAIN

  (巍宝山; Wēibǎo Mountain ¥60)

  Eminently worthy Wēibǎo Shān, about 10km south of Wēishān, has a relatively easy hike to its peak at around 2500m. During the Ming and Qing dynasties it was the zenith of China’s Taoism, and you’ll find some superb Taoist murals; the most significant are at Wénchāng Gōng (文昌宫, Wénchāng Palace) and Chángchún Cave (长春洞, Chángchún Dòng). Birders in particular love the mountain; the entire county is a node on an international birding flyway.

  There are no buses here. Head to the street running east of Gǒngcháng Lóu in Wēishān to pick up a microvan to the mountain, or ask your hotel to arrange one. Expect to pay ¥80 to ¥100 for the round trip; you’ll need the driver to wait for you.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  A few hotels are scattered around the centre of town.

  Línyè BīnguǎnHOTEL$

  (林业宾馆 %0872 612 0761; 24 Xi Xin Jie; 西新街24号 d ¥100; aW)

  A hop, skip and a jump from Gǒngcháng Lóu, with big and well-kept rooms and a strong wi-fi connection. It’s a ¥5
ride from the bus station in a motor-rickshaw.

  BáilùyuánGUESTHOUSE$$$

  (白露原 %157 527 98896; 19 Bei Jie; 北街19号 r ¥580; W)

  Out front this is a lovely teahouse, which also serves coffee and juices, but out back you can stay in effectively what is your own little courtyard home, with a small garden and a very comfortable and tastefully decorated bedroom.

  Yùfēng CāntīngYUNNAN$$

  (裕丰餐厅 Xixin Jie; 西新街 dishes from ¥10; h8.30am-10pm)

  Excellent locals hang out, with fine veggies and tofu. There's no English menu, but everything is on display and the staff will do their best to help you out.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Yàn CafeCAFE

  (焱咖啡; Yàn Kāfēi %189 8707 0696; Bei Jie; 北街 coffee & tea from ¥20; h11am-10.30pm; W)

  Just down the street from Xīnggǒng Tower is this laid-back little cafe run by a former Dàlǐ resident and her musician husband. Proper coffee and tea, as well as fruit shakes and beer. For now, it's the only place in town like it.

  8Getting There & Away

  Xiàguān’s Xīngshèng bus station has buses to Wēishān (¥15, 1½ hours, every 20 to 30 minutes, 6.30am to 6pm). They return to Xiàguān from 6.30am.

  Dàlǐ 大理

  %0872 / Pop 40,000

  Dàlǐ (大理), the original backpacker hang-out in Yúnnán, was once the place to chill, with its stunning location sandwiched between mountains and Ěrhǎi Lake. Loafing here for a couple of weeks was an essential part of the Yúnnán experience.