Lonely Planet China
Page 155
1Sights & Activities
Shǔnán Zhúhǎi National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(蜀南竹海国家公园; Shǔnán Zhúhǎi Guójiā Gōngyuán ¥117)
Swaths of swaying bamboo, well-marked walking trails and a handful of charming lakes and waterfalls make south Sìchuān’s Bamboo Sea a worthwhile detour. There are more than 30 types of bamboo across this 120-sq-km national park and the scenery is gorgeous enough to have attracted many a TV and film director.
The villages of Wànlǐng (万岭), at the west gate, and Wànlǐ (万里), near the east gate, are the main settlements inside the park. It’s about 11km from one to the other if you follow the road the whole way.
Two cable cars (索道; suǒdào) ease the journey considerably, and are a great way to see the forest from another angle. The Guānguāng cable car (观光索道; Guānguāng Suǒdào one way/return ¥30/40; h8am-5pm) near Wànlǐng takes you on a 25-minute ride over a stunning forest and past steep cliffs. There’s a pleasant, one-hour walk along the Mò Brook (墨溪; Mò Xī) that loops through the forest just past the cable-car entrance.
From the end of the Guānguāng cable car either follow the signs for a free lift to the Dàxiágǔ cable car (大峡谷索道; Dàxiágǔ Suǒdào one way/return ¥20/30; h8.30am-5.30pm), a 10-minute ride traversing a dramatic gorge, or walk to the junction at Sānhé Jiè (三合界) where you can find a small selection of accommodation and food.
From both Dàxiágǔ or Sānhé Jiè your destination is the same: the trails that trace through the scenic area that includes a number of small lakes and caves with picturesque names like 'Sea within the Sea' (海中海) and 'Cave of the Immortals' (仙禹洞). Either way, at the end of the paths you'll need to retrace your steps or head back via the opposite route.
If you end up with extra time in Wànlǐng at the end of the day, the nearby Forgotten Worries Valley (忘忱谷; Wàngchén Gǔ) makes for a nice two-hour walk from the village and back past a number of progressively larger waterfalls.
4Sleeping & Eating
Settle in a hotel in Wànlǐng, with the friendly Yang family's tidy, basic Joan's Guesthouse (晶鑫园衣家乐; Jīngxīn Yuán Yījiālè %135 4771 7196; www.snzhjourney.com; West gate, 200m past the small bridge on Wànlǐng's main square; 小桥广场往观云亭方向前行200米左手边 r ¥120-160; aW) on the road above the village or at the Chéngbīnlóu Jiǔdiàn (承宾楼酒店 %0831 498 0104; Wànlǐng village square; 蜀南竹海小桥（西大门前1公里） s/tw ¥220/280, discounted to ¥100/180; aW) on the main square.
All guesthouses and hotels serve food, which is generally pretty good. Around major junctions and sights in the park there are usually at least a couple of noodle shops, if not more formal restaurants. Try dishes with zhúsǔn (竹笋), tender bamboo shoots, and the various local fungi that propagate at their roots.
8Getting There & Around
Buses into the park stop at the west gate to allow you to get off and buy your entrance ticket, before passing through Wànlǐng village and then terminating at Wànlǐ.
There are two direct buses from Wànlǐ to Yíbīn (¥22, two hours, 7am and 2pm). Both pass Wànlǐng (40 minutes) and, if you ask, will drop you at the junction for Chángníng (one hour), where you can change for Gǒngxiàn to get to Luòbiǎo. Smaller local buses shuttle every 15 minutes between Wànlǐng and Chángníng (¥6, 7am to 6pm).
Motorbike taxis can take you between the two main villages (around ¥50, 45 minutes) if you decide not to walk.
Western Sìchuān
West of Chéngdū, green tea becomes butter tea, gentle rolling hills morph into jagged snowy peaks and the Mandarin nǐ hǎo! gives way to Tibetan tashe deleg!
This is the Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, a territory that corresponds roughly with the Kham (in Chinese 康巴; Kāngbā), one of old Tibet’s three traditional provinces. It is home to more than a dozen distinct Tibetan tribes, the largest being the Khampas, historically fierce warriors and horsemen.
Each season brings its own rugged beauty. In spring and summer many remote towns and monasteries can feel abandoned as villagers head out to harvest byar rtswa dgun bu (虫草; chóngcǎo) – cordyceps in English – a medicinal caterpillar fungus that grows on the alpine slopes and retails for outrageous amounts in lowland China and increasingly throughout the world.
Dangers & Annoyances
The roads in western Sìchuān are infamously bad, but many sections have been resurfaced in recent years and as a result travel times have been cut drastically. The occasional tumbled vehicle at the bottom of steep drops still attests to the danger of these highways, however, and with road work still ongoing in some areas it's not all smooth driving.
Health
At these elevations, altitude sickness and acute mountain sickness (AMS) are possible concerns, especially for those looking to get out into nature for long periods.
Western Sìchuān endures up to 200 freezing days per year, but sunny summer days can be blistering. This, combined with the high altitude, can leave new arrivals vulnerable to bad sunburn in addition to altitude sickness. Pack layers and take a couple of days to acclimatise when you arrive and as you continue to gain elevation.
PERMITS
In 2009, after a dozen foreign climbers died on Sìchuān's mountains, the Chinese government began to enforce permit regulations. Officially, climbing any Sìchuān peak above 3500m requires registration through the Sìchuān Mountaineering Association. When your plans involve more than a standard hike (for example, rock climbing, ice climbing, extended backpacking), you should at least register with the mountain's administrative office (管理) by the park's entrance gate. You may have to pay an environmental protection fee (from ¥150), and at popular but treacherous mountains such as Sìgūniáng (四姑娘), hire a guide (from ¥300 per day).
8Getting There & Away
The recent completion of a number of high-altitude airports can cut travel times drastically, and more are on the way. Consider flying into Dàochéng and out of Qīnghǎi province's Yùshù, or in and out of Kāngdìng or the soon-to-open Gānzī airport. Flight prices can vary drastically depending on season and demand, so check Chinese booking sites such as Ctrip (http://english.ctrip.com/ChinaFlights) for current prices.
Most travellers will enter western Sìchuān overland, whether over the most common route from Chéngdū via Kāngdìng, or arduous backdoor routes from Yúnnán or Qīnghǎi provinces.
8Getting Around
In most cities throughout the region, one or two buses leave early each morning, with no more scheduled services throughout the day. To fill the gap, private drivers head to points throughout the province based on demand. You'll need to establish whether you want private hire – bāochē (包车) or a shared vehicle – pīnchē (拼车) – and if shared you'll usually need to wait around a while until the car fills up. Prices fluctuate based on demand and whim, and if you can't find a ride you're willing to pay for you may well need to try again the next morning.
Shared vehicles usually fill up quickly in the morning and more slowly as the day drags on. If possible, try to find a driver the day before and establish a departure time to guarantee yourself a seat.
Kāngdìng 康定
%0836 / Pop 110,000
Coming from the Chéngdū area, there are two main gateways into Tibetan Sìchuān. One is Dānbā, but far more popular is Kāngdìng (康定; known in Tibetan as Dartsendo or Dardo), the capital of the Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.
Set in a steep river valley at the confluence of the raging Zhéduō and Yǎlā Rivers (the Dar and Tse in Tibetan), Kāngdìng offers an easy introduction to Tibetan culture and elevations above 2500m while still putting visitors in range of mountains like snowcapped Gònggā Shān to the south, one of nearly two dozen peaks over 6000m within a few hours' drive.
This town has long stood as a trading centre between the Tibetan and Han, with sizeable Hui and Qiang minority populations also part of the mix; you'll find elements of all these culture
s represented here. Golden-roofed monasteries, a city-centre mosque and several large churches attest to the diversity and harmony of the region.
Kāngdìng (Dartsendo)
1Sights
1Pǎomǎ ShānC3
2Pǎomǎ SìC3
4Sleeping
3Dēngbā HostelB1
4Zhilam HostelA3
5Eating
5Mágē MiànA3
6Taste of TibetB2
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Himalayan Coffee & Trading Co.B3
7Shopping
8Déhuì SupermarketB3
1Sights & Activities
The mountains looming over Kāngdìng make for pleasant day hikes, while the less ambitious will appreciate a lazy ride up the Pǎomǎ Shān cable car or a soak in the Èrdào Hot Springs (二道桥温泉; Èrdàoqiáo Wēnquán GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 287 9111; Erdao Qiao; 二道桥 per hr ¥10-120; h7am-11pm) just outside of town.
Guōdá ShānMOUNTAIN
(郭达山; Zhedra Rawo GOOGLE MAP )
Guōdá Shān looms large at the northern end of town and takes a full day to climb up and down. From the peak (1500m) you can take in the breathtaking glaciers to the south.
Gānzī Prefecture Tibetan Cultural Heritage MuseumMUSEUM
(自治州非物质文化遗产博物馆; Zìzhìzhōu Fēi Wùzhí Wénhuà Yíchǎn Bówùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 2811 1312; 36 Xiangyang Jie; 向阳街36号 ¥30; h8.30am-5.30pm)
By the Pǎomǎ Shān cable-car entrance, this bēng-kē-style (崩柯) structure (three-storey structures with split-log and packed-earth walls) houses exhibits surveying the Kham's rich heritage from the garb of regional tribes to thangka (sacred paintings), and a sky-burial horn fashioned from a teenage girl's femur.
Nánwú SìBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(南无寺; Lhamo Tse GOOGLE MAP ; Lucheng Nanlu; 炉城南路 h7am-9pm)F
This temple belongs to the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism and is the most active monastery in the area. Walk south along the main road, cross the river and keep going for about 200m until you see a small sign ('南無村') for the monastery on your right. Follow the road straight uphill on a steep road to the gold-capped roofs.
Jīngāng SìBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(金刚寺; Dordrak Lhakang GOOGLE MAP ; Lucheng Nanlu; 炉城南路 h7am-9pm)F
About 100m past Nánwú Sì along the main road is this 400-year-old Nyingma (Red Hat sect) monastery. The temple was undergoing major renovations at the time of research, but the main hall and some others were still accessible. Turn right from the main road into an archway labelled '金刚村'.
Gònggā ShānMOUNTAIN
(贡嘎山; Minyak Konka )
The trailhead for the five-day pilgrims’ circuit of holy Gònggā Shān (7556m) is a half-hour drive from Kāngdìng. Many hostel staff can advise you on how to approach the trek, and rent out camping equipment. We recommend finding a guide with horses through Zhilam Hostel.
Jiǔlián ShānMOUNTAIN
(九连山 GOOGLE MAP )F
With no concrete steps and free of charge, a two-hour climb up this natural hill brings you to a small grassland plateau (perfect for picnics) beyond which horses and yaks graze. Access it behind Zhilam Hostel, which can provide maps for guests.
Guānyīn SìBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(观音寺 GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Paomashan Donglu; 跑马山东路9号 h7am-6pm)F
Looming over Kāngdìng on the lower slopes of Pǎomǎ Shān, above the three main halls of the temple is a path that leads on to several pagodas and another remote prayer hall. Continue following the same path to reach the scenic area around the Pǎomǎ Sì (跑马寺; Dentok Lhakang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥50; h8am-6pm).
Pǎomǎ ShānMOUNTAIN
(跑马山; Dentok Rawo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥50; h8am-6pm)
Pǎomǎ Shān is the famed mountain of the 'Kāngdìng Qíng Gē' ('Kangding Love Song'), one of China's most enduring folk songs, and will appeal the most to those who are familiar with the ditty. It's an easy ascent on foot or take the cable car (索道; Suǒdào GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 283 4680; 36 Xiangyang Jie; 向阳街36号 one way/return adult ¥35/55, child ¥20/25; h9am-6.30pm) halfway up for excellent views of the town and surrounding peaks and valleys. You have to pay to go all the way up the stepped path, past ribbons of prayer flags and the Pǎomǎ Sì.
LOAD UP WITH CASH
At the time of research it was impossible to change money or travellers cheques, get advances on credit cards or use ATMs with foreign bank cards anywhere in western Sìchuān apart from Kāngdìng. Larger towns such as Xīndūqiáo and Gānzī have a branch of the Agricultural Bank of China that theoretically accept foreign cards but in others, despite the Visa signs, expect rejection.
zFestivals & Events
Circling the Mountain FestivalRELIGIOUS
(转山节; Zhuǎnshānjié )
Kāngdìng’s biggest annual festival takes place on Pǎomǎ Shān on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month (normally in May) to commemorate the birthday of the Historical Buddha, Sakyamuni. White and blue Tibetan tents cover the hillside and there’s wrestling, horse racing and visitors from all over western Sìchuān.
4Sleeping
Konka International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(贡嘎国际青年旅舍; Gònggā Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 281 7788, 189 9048 1279; 3rd fl, 59 Dongguan Yinle Guangchangjie; 东关音乐广场街59号3楼 dm ¥35-40, s/d ¥150/170; iW)
The most convenient option for bus travellers, with pleasant English-speaking staff offering all the usual services. They can also help arrange self-guided excursions into the mountains, even loaning out outdoor gear. From June through November, beds in rooftop tents go for ¥25. Lively communal dinners include vegetarian options (¥18 to ¥24 per person). Just 50m to the left of the bus station.
Dēngbā HostelHOSTEL$
(登巴国际青年旅舍; Dēngbā Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 287 7377; 88 Xi Dajie; 西大街88号 dm ¥35, r with shared bathroom ¥70; iW)
Worn but welcoming hostel with small rooms off Xi Dajie, with free laundry a welcome surprise. Easiest access is through an alley at 16 Wenchang Lu (文昌路16号). Don't confuse this with the hostel of the same name near the bus station, which offers similar prices but not quality.
oZhilam HostelHOSTEL$$
(汇道客栈; Huìdào Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 283 1100; www.zhilamhostel.com; 72 Baitukan Xiang; 白土坎巷72号 dm/r from ¥45/260; iW)
Run by an American family, this fabulous, kid-friendly, hillside hostel is a comfortable base in Kāngdìng. It provides all manner of top-end hostel services, from camping-gear rental to good Western food and travel advice. It’s a winding 10-minute walk uphill on the road that passes Yōngzhū Motel.
Zhilam is also a reliable resource for wilderness adventures, and can arrange guides and transportation to trek the Gònggā Shān circuit (from ¥300 per day, not including horse fees), to visit nearby Muge Cuo lake or other adventures.
5Eating & Drinking
Mágē MiànNOODLES$
(麻哥面 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 59 Yanhe Xilu; 沿河西路59号 noodles ¥10-13; h24hr)
A solid late-night option, with the speciality here ma’gē miàn (麻哥面) – house noodles topped with a spicy mince-meat sauce in small (一两; yīliǎng; ¥9) or large (二两; èr liǎng; ¥11) servings.
oTaste of TibetTIBETAN$$
(葩姆名卡; Pāmǔ Línkǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 699 9999; 13 Dong Dajie; 东大街13号 mains from ¥38; h9am-midnight)
This upscale joint offers a refined take on Tibetan fare in a rustic dining room decorated with a fine collection of traditional nomad tools and tapestries. The chef sources ingredients from the Kham – from Xīndūqiáo's fragrant barley (青稞) to tender yak (牦牛肉) from Shíqú.
Himalayan Coffee & Trading Co.CAFE
(喜马掖帷咖啡; Xĭmăyēwéi Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 281 8887; 54 Liuliu Cheng; 溜溜城54号, off Dong Dajie; 上东大街 h7.30am-11pm; W)
The o
nly spot for actual pour-over coffee (¥25) in all of the Kham, this cafe (food from ¥18) near the big yak sculpture is a veritable oasis for the caffeine-deprived. Wraps, pizzas, house-baked pastries, waffles and wi-fi satisfy other common traveller cravings – though at homeland prices. Even for nonsmokers the 'VIP' balcony out back makes for great people-watching over the street below.
7Shopping
Déhuì SupermarketMARKET
(德惠超市; Déhuì Chāoshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 96 Dong Dajie; 东大街96号 h8am-10pm)
A comprehensive supermarket with a wide selection, and a decent range of ingredients for hiking trips as well. A separate camping/outdoors store just past the cashiers also sells 230g canisters of camping fuel for ¥20.
8Information
Agricultural Bank of China ATMATM
(自动柜员机; Zìdòng Guìyuán Jī GOOGLE MAP ; 139 Yanhe Xilu; 沿河西路139号 h24hr)
Agricultural Bank of China has several ATMs around town that take foreign cards.