Lonely Planet China
Page 158
4Sleeping
Sleeping options are limited to the large Yàqīng Hotel (亚青宾馆; Yàqīng Bīnguăn %178 2816 8966; Yaqing Si; 亚青寺 r ¥160) on the edge of town and a string of small guesthouses on the main road shortly before it reaches the river, of which Jíxiáng Shàngjìn Bīnguăn Cāntīng (吉详上进宾馆餐厅 %152 2884 2226; Yaqing Si; 亚青寺 dm ¥40-50, r ¥120) is by far the most pleasant.
5Eating
A bunch of small restaurants are located at the entrance to Yàqīng, with another on the main road through town just before the bridge across the Dzin-Chu River to the nuns' quarters. Most sport the same set menu of vegetarian dishes (¥10 to ¥15), though Yīpĭn Tiānxià (一品天下 Yaqing Si entrance; 亚青寺车场 mains ¥10-15; h6am-11pm) expands on this with other Sìchuān classics.
8Getting There & Away
While regular minibuses depart from Gānzī to Yàqīng, arriving from elsewhere may necessitate a transfer (¥15) in the village of Á'Chá (啊察/呷村), from which it's a 17km (30-minute) trip.
One daily bus departs from the entrance of Yàqīng village between 7am and 8am for Gānzī (¥40, two to three hours). Additionally, minibuses congregate in the same area and leave when full, most reliably to Gānzī (¥45), Báiyù (¥50, two to three hours) and Dégé (¥100, four to five hours).
Southern Garzê Prefecture
Travelling through the southern reaches of western Sìchuān takes you through vast grasslands dotted with alpine lakes, shiny gold-roofed monasteries and temples, and grazing yaks with a background of snowy peaks that seem to reach to the sky.
Journeying along this 2140km route is slightly easier than taking the northern route, but it’s still not for the faint-hearted; settlements are far and few and high altitude is a factor as much as ever. Warm clothing and sunscreen are a must. However, as the Kāngdìng–Lǐtáng–Xiāngchéng–Zhōngdiàn journey has become a popular route into Yúnnán province, road conditions have vastly improved and so have the services available to travellers in the region.
8Getting There & Away
The very new and very high Dàochéng-Yàdīng Airport puts everything in closer reach, but if you're opting for the one-hour flight from Chéngdū make sure you set aside a couple of days to acclimatise before tackling ambitious excursions.
Otherwise, it's a long overland journey from Chéngdū via high mountain passes and fertile river valleys, perhaps continuing on to Tibetan areas of Yúnnán.
Dàochéng 稻城
%0836 / Pop 32,300 / Elev 3760m
Dàochéng (稻城; Dabpa) packs bags of rural charm despite the fact that its small town centre has been modernised. It makes a lovely base for exploring the magnificent Yàdīng Nature Reserve, but don't discount the appeal of Dàochéng itself. After Yàdīng, you can fill another couple of days here walking or cycling around boulder-strewn wetlands, hills and barley fields, all of it dotted with villages and Tibetan monasteries. Spring brings some of the clearest skies, while autumn is particularly beautiful as a blaze of red leaves and grass electrifies the landscape.
1Sights & Activities
Especially for travellers coming from lower elevations, it's worth exploring the areas around Dàochéng by foot or bicycle to get accustomed to altitude before tackling the hikes in Yàdīng Nature Reserve.
Back towards central Sìchuān on the road to Kāngdìng, the villages of Hóngcǎodì (红草地; 10km) and Sāngduī Zhèn (桑堆镇; 28km) are quiet and picturesque while the magnificent Benpo Monastery (邦普寺; Bāngpǔ Sì; 30km) is itself worth a half-day.
In the other direction, towards Yàdīng, the 15km road to Rèwū Temple (热乌寺, Rèwū Sì) passes through the Sèlā Grasslands (色拉草原; Sèlā Căoyuán) and several villages en route. Turn right for the temple onto a small dirt road just before the highway starts to ascend switchbacks out of the valley.
Rúbùzhákǎ Hot SpringsHOT SPRINGS
(茹布查卡温泉; Rúbùzhákǎ Wēnquán per person ¥30)
The waters of Rúbùzhákǎ Hot Springs are believed to promote good health and long life, but even nonbelievers can appreciate the relaxing powers of soaking in 68°C pools after a long hike in the mountains. Turn left off Dàochéng's main road just beyond the city square, and the springs are about 3km outside of town on a small road to the right.
4Sleeping
Dàochéng International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(稻城国际青年旅舍; Dàochéng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0836 572 7772; yourinn@gmail.com; across the XingFu bridge; 幸福桥头有间 dm/r ¥30/100)
At the end of Dexi Lu across a small bridge, this new hostel in a small residential area can help with booking tickets and renting bikes, and the small cafe stays open from 7am to midnight.
Yàdīng Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$
(亚丁人社区国际青年旅舍; Yǎdīng Rén Shèqū Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %139 2221 4940; www.yading.net; 58 Dexi Lu; 徳西路58号 dm ¥30-50, tw ¥100; iW)
Small rooms are set around the courtyard of a pretty Tibetan blockhouse (first right off Dexi Jie). English-speaking staff can help arrange excursions, rides and luggage storage.
5Eating
Snowy Tibetan MealTIBETAN$
(雪城藏餐; Xuĕchéng Zàngcān %139 9048 8476; mains from ¥15; h7am-10pm)
Sample Tibetan classics in this small family-run restaurant just outside the bus station. No English, but a photo menu on the walls helps smooth ordering along.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bù'èr CafeCAFE
(不二咖啡; Bù'èr Kāfēi %0836 572 6765; 48 Dexi Lu; 徳西路48号 h10am-midnight; W)
This upstairs cafe in the midst of the guesthouses on Dexi Lu has the best coffee in town (¥28) and a relaxed atmosphere in which to spend time before or after trips to Yàdīng Nature Reserve. Along with the English menu, some English is spoken by the friendly staff.
8Getting There & Away
Two buses leave daily at 6.10am, for which you can buy tickets from 2pm the day before. One goes to Chéngdū (¥288, 20 hours), via Lǐtáng (¥50, three hours), Kāngdìng (¥150, nine hours) and Yǎ'ān (¥237, 14 hours); the other goes southwest to Zhōngdiàn (Shangri-la; ¥140, 10 hours) in Yúnnán province, via Xiāngchéng (¥45, three hours).
Minibuses that gather across the street from the station are also popular for Lǐtáng and Xiāngchéng. Prices are negotiable, but expect to pay ¥20 or ¥30 more per seat than bus prices. For Yàdīng Nature Reserve (¥50, two hours) minibuses are the only option.
The new Dàochéng-Yàdīng Airport, 43km north, has several flights daily to Chéngdū (¥839, one hour) and thrice-weekly flights to Chóngqìng (¥1220, 12.15pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday). Minibuses (机场拼车; jīchăng pīnchē) leave from near the town square (¥30, 50 minutes, around three hours before departures). Turn right out of the bus station, left before the square; buses leave from a parking lot just before the first intersection on the left.
Bicycle RentalBICYCLE RENTAL
(出租自行车; Chūzū Zìxíngchē %187 8363 1507; 46 Dexi Lu; 徳西路46号 per day bicycle/scooter ¥20/80; h7am-8pm)
Full-day rentals of bicycles and electric scooters are available from this storefront on Dexi Lu between the guesthouses and main road.
YàDīNG NATURE RESERVE
oYàdīng Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(亚丁风景区; Yàdīng Fēngjǐngqū %0836 572 2666; entry incl shuttle bus ¥270; h7.30am-5.40pm)
The magnificent Yàdīng Nature Reserve, 140km south of Dàochéng, centres around three sacred snowcapped mountains, a holy trinity encircled by forested valleys, crystal-clear rivers and glacier-fed lakes. These are, quite simply, some of the most stunning landscapes you'll ever see. There are opportunities to hike, ride and camp here.
Locals have worshipped these mountains for more than 800 years. The three peaks – Chenresig (compassion), Chana Dorje (power) and Jampelyang (wisdom) – represent bodhisattvas in Tibetan Buddhism. Even for nonbelievers, walking the 35km kora (转山; holy hik
e) around the highest peak, Chenresig (仙乃日; Xiānnǎirì), which tops out at 6032m, can be a hugely meaningful experience.
The clockwise circuit around Chenresig begins at Lóngtóng Bà (龙同坝) and takes at least 12 hours of serious hiking. To avoid one very long day, many use the campsites located about halfway, just below the first pass beyond Five-Colour Lake. You have to bring all your own gear and supplies. (Though you'll pass locals living in simple stone huts, under park rules they are not supposed to take you in.) Remember to keep the mountain on your right, and to always take the right-hand turn when there’s a choice of paths. There is a longer, four-day, 110km hike that adds a circuit around 5958m Chana Dorje (夏郎多吉; Xiàláng Duōjí), which begins and ends at the same place as the kora.
These hiking trails are all around 4000m above sea level, so acclimatise properly and pack for a serious expedition before you set off. Guides are available for hire at Lóngtóng Bà.
If you don’t have the time (or energy) for a full circuit, there are day-hike options that see far more visitors. Take the shuttle bus from the ticket office into the park, to the small settlement of Lóngtóng Bà. From here hike 3km to the 800-year-old Chonggu Monastery (冲古寺; Chōnggǔ Sì), where you can pick up electric carts (one way/return ¥50/80, 6km, 20 minutes) into the Luòróng Grassland (洛绒牛场; Luòróng Niúchǎng), which offers incredible views of the trinity and is as far as most tourists go. The other direction, uphill from Chonggu Monastery, is a 40-minute uphill hike to Zhuoma La (卓玛拉; Zhuómă Lā). This small lake, just in the shadow of Chenresig's north face, is particularly impressive in spring when surrounded by blooming azalea flowers.
It's worth continuing another 5km (three hours) to Milk Lake (牛奶海; Níunǎi Hǎi) and stunning Five-Colour Lake (五色海; Wǔsè Hǎi). You can also ride guided mules (one-way/return ¥200/300) for this segment, but keep in mind that even on four legs the round-trip journey takes 5½ hours on a steep, rocky trail. Riders must dismount multiple times to scramble alongside their ride for about a kilometre.
Take a shared minibus (per person ¥50, 2½ hours) from Dàochéng to the small town of Rìwǎ (日瓦), where you buy tickets for the reserve. The ticket includes a mandatory ¥120 shuttle-bus fee, so take the park shuttle bus the last 32km into the park (50 minutes); it stops first in Yàdīng village and then 3km later at Lóngtóng Bà.
There are guesthouses and places to eat in Yàdīng village (亚丁村). To get an early start on the kora sleep in a guesthouse in Yàdīng then catch the 7.30am shuttle the last few kilometres down to Lóngtóng Bà. Buses within the park run from the visitors centre between 7.20am and 5.40pm, and back from Lóngtóng Bà between 9am and 7.30pm.
The best times to visit the reserve are May to June and September to early October.
Lǐtáng 理塘
%0836 / Pop 51,300 / Elev 3886m
At a dizzying altitude of 3886m, Lǐtáng (理塘; Lithang) is one of the highest settlements on earth. Its scenery will certainly leave you breathless, and getting out to see it – whether on horse, motorcycle or foot – calls for spending at least a couple of days here.
For Tibetans, Lǐtáng occupies another exalted space as the birthplace of holy men, including the seventh and 10th Dalai Lamas and many revered lamas. Their birthplace and the town’s large monastery, Chöde Gompa, draw devoted pilgrims from afar.
1Sights
Former Residence of the 7th Dalai LamaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(仁康古屋; Rénkāng Gǔwū GOOGLE MAP ; Renkang Gujie, off Genie Xilu; 仁康古街, 格聂西路 hvisitors 8am-7pm)F
Kelzang Gyatso (1708–57), the seventh Dalai Lama, was born in the basement of this house during a period of intense political struggle. He eventually grew into a visionary leader, and under his rule Tibet established a national archive, instituted civil-service training programs and formalised the Tibetan government structure. The house, built in the 16th century, is now Lǐtáng's best-preserved temple. While the building is officially open from 8am to 7pm, in practice hours are erratic.
Not all Tibetans shared the belief Gyatso was the reincarnate; to escape the ongoing civil war, the Dalai Lama was raised and educated largely in exile. Qing Emperor Kangxi issued a proclamation affirming his identity, and in 1720 sent his son and troops to install the Dalai Lama to power in Lhasa. Mongol uprisings, rebellions and several coups later, the Dalai Lama gained the support of the clergy and the people.
The main house is a series of rooms crowded with devotees lost in prayer, and displays of sacred relics of the Dalai Lama and the 13 other lamas born here. You may have to ask to see his actual birthplace, which is behind a door to the left of the entrance.
To get here, walk along Genie Xilu (格聂西路) after turning left past the China Post and just before King Gesar Sq (格萨尔广场; Gésà'ĕr Guăngchăng). Turn right onto Renkang Gujie (仁康古街) into the passage between No 72 and No 74 (marked by a number of large stones inscribed with Tibetan script).
White Temple ParkPARK, CHöRTEN
(白塔公园; Báitǎ Gōngyuán GOOGLE MAP ; Baita Lu; 白塔路 )F
Circle the White Temple (白塔; Báitǎ) with worshippers as they recite mantras and spin the massive prayer wheels, or join the locals just hanging out in the surrounding park. Turn left out of the bus station and just keep walking. From the main intersection, it's another five minutes or so down Xingfu Xilu (幸福西路).
Chöde GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(长青春科尔寺; Chángqīngchūn Kē’ěr Sì GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-11pm)F
At the northern end of town, the large Chöde Gompa is a Tibetan monastery that was built for the third Dalai Lama. Inside is a statue of Sakyamuni, believed to have been carried from Lhasa by foot. Don’t miss climbing onto the roof of the main hall on the far right for great views of the Tibetan homes leading up to the monastery, as well as the grasslands and mountains beyond. Monks climb up here to sound the dungchen (long horns).
To get here from the post office, turn left at the end of Tuanjie Lu, then take the first right and follow the road. Alternatively, bus 2 (¥2) terminates at the monastery. Pick it up at the King Gesar Sq stop (格萨尔广场站; Gésà'ěr Guǎngchǎng Zhàn) one block north of the post office.
2Activities
Hot SpringsHOT SPRINGS
(温泉; Wēnquán per person from ¥20)
About 6km west of the town centre behind a small temple. Skip the bathhouses right by the road; the better options are just up the hill.
4Sleeping
Lǐtáng Summer International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(理塘的夏天国际青年旅舍; Lǐtáng de Xiàtiān Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě GOOGLE MAP ; %180 1579 1574; litangsummer@gmail.com; 47 Ping'an Lu; 平安路47号 dm ¥35, r ¥140)
This lively youth hostel has the most cheerful rooms in town with colourful, warm bedding and a service demeanour to match. Hike this mountain? Find this unmapped route? Make me breakfast (¥10)? They'll make it happen. Turn left out of the bus station, and then left again down Ping'an Lu (just before the building marked '308 Xingfu Donglu').
5Eating
Tīanjīn Gŏubùlĭ Soup DumplingsDUMPLINGS$
(天津狗不理灌汤包; Tīanjīn Gŏubùlĭ Guàntāngbāo GOOGLE MAP ; 264 Xingfu Donglu; 幸福东路264号 dumplings ¥1, mains ¥15; h6.30am-10pm)
Don't be fooled by the diminutive size of this shop run by a family from Yúnnán province, because the large soup dumplings (汤包子; tāngbāozi) pack in quite a lot of taste. Be sure to ask for a dish of the spicy sauce served alongside main dishes, and at ¥1 per dumpling don't be afraid to order ambitiously.
Tiān Tiān RestaurantSICHUAN$
(天天饮食; Tiāntiān Yǐnshí GOOGLE MAP ; %135 4146 7941; 126 Xingfu Donglu; 幸福东路126号 mains ¥15-35; h8am-9pm; W)
Long-standing travellers’ haven run by the gregarious English-speaking chef, Mr Zheng, who can also offer expert travel advice. Food is high-quality Sìchuān fare, and the delicious potato pancakes (土豆饼; tǔdòu bǐng;
¥30) come from a family recipe that goes back several generations. Turn left out of the bus station and it’s about 600m along on the left.
8Information
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 110 Tuanjie Beilu; 团结北路110号 h9.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm)
Turn left out of the bus station, then right at the intersection of Xingfu Donglu (幸福东路).
Internet CafeINTERNET
(网吧; Wǎngbā GOOGLE MAP ; 106 Tuanjie Beilu; 团结北路106号 per hr ¥5; h8.30am-midnight)
Next to the post office.
8Getting There & Away
It’s normally easy to bag Kāngdìng or Xīndūqiáo bus tickets, but otherwise buses are often full by the time they reach Lǐtáng. Tickets to points west are only sold the day of departure, once it has been verified that space is available. Minivans (around ¥40 more expensive than buses) loiter outside the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) to fill the void. The quickest way north to Gānzī (¥110, around five hours) is by minivan via Xīnlóng. No scheduled buses run this route directly.
Buses run to:
ABātáng ¥63, 3½ hours, around 3pm
AChéngdū ¥221, 20 hours, 9am; via Yǎ'ān ¥170, 16 hours
ADàochéng ¥48, four hours, around noon
AKāngdìng ¥93, eight hours, two daily (6.30am, 7am); via Xīndūqiáo ¥68, six hours
AXiāngchéng ¥79, five hours, two daily (both around noon)