Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Language

  Behind the Scenes

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  Our Readers

  Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:

  A Alexander Luijt, Alexandra Coley, Alistair Hayes, Andrew Smith, Anne Agersted B Brian Favell C Cedric Schelfhaut, Charlotte Toolan, Chris Purslow, Christoph Messmer, Ciriaco Vicente-Mazariegos, Constantin Berger D Daniel Gauthier, David Evans, Donald Ross E Erik Ainley F Ferry Quast, Frans van Eijk G Gabriele Corsetti, Geoff Crowhurst, Georg Fernkorn J James Lindsay, Jérôme Andrey, Jim Wilcox, Johannes Voit, John Hobkinson, Jon Wisloff, Julien Chapuis, Juul Scheffers K Katherine Perez, Kathleen Vennens, Kellie Simms L Laurence Markens M Massimiliano Ammannito, Mateusz Poślednik, Mathias Herr, Michele Martin, Michelle Josselyn P Paolo Priotto R Ralph Pringsheim, Raul Cruz Sierra, Rebecca Lagomarsino, Richard Barnett, Rita Selke, Ron Crawford, Ron Perrier S Sandy Dance, Sara Santambrogio, Scott Mills, Shohei Takashiro, Stijn Eeckhaut, Susanne Badertscher T Tom de Bruin, Tricia Fort W Wouter Kolkman Y Yana Yout, Yu Hongyuan Z Zy Zhang

  Writer Thanks

  Damian Harper

  Much gratitude to Xiao Xue, Mr Zhang, Jason, Li Chengyuan, Grace, Kathy with the perfect English, Margaux, Alvin, Dai Min, Ann Harper, Ba and Ma, the lovely couple who befriended and helped me on the bus outside Datong and all the countless offers of help and guidance from one of the friendliest nations on this planet. Thanks to all of you.

  Piera Chen

  Thanks to the Lonely Planet team, and to my friends Janine Cheung and Yuen Ching-sum for their generous assistance. Thanks also to my husband Sze Pang-cheung and daughter Clio for their patience and wonderful support.

  Megan Eaves

  Many thanks to my incredible China writers, especially Damian Harper and Phillip Tang for taking on giant chunks of research. Vega Liu and Coco Guan at LPCN. Gratitude to the Fujianese monks who rescued me when I was stranded at Tiantishan. As always, Dave Carroll, Jen Carey and Tom Hall, who continue to trust me to run off to China for three weeks and actually come back to the office. And Bill, who forever supports my random need to just go be by myself in the desert for awhile.

  David Eimer

  Special gratitude goes to Emi Yang for her invaluable assistance. Thanks also to Cathy and Lijuan in Jinghong for their inside knowledge, as well as to Megan Eaves at Lonely Planet. As ever, thanks to the many people along the way who passed on tips, whether knowingly or unwittingly.

  Helen Elfer

  A huge 谢谢 to everyone I met on this trip who patiently answered questions and offered advice, also to friends past and present who made my time in China so memorable. Particular gratitude to bona fide China Hands Casey and Mike Hall for all sorts of logistical, technical and moral support, plus heaps of fun. And finally thanks to Orlando for coming along for the ride, to China and in general.

  Daisy Harper

  For time and effort, big thanks as ever to Margaux, Alvin too, Dai Ruibin, Liu Meina, Jamie Chen, Li Jiaqi, Sun Rong and Jackie Zhang. I am also very grateful to my husband and to Jiafu and Jiale, all ever helpful and patient. Thanks also to everyone else I bumped in to along the way who made my job that bit easier.

  Trent Holden

  First up a massive thanks to Megan Eaves for commissioning me on Beijing. A massive honour indeed to cover a city of this magnitude. Also wanted to say a big thank you to fellow LP colleagues based in the Beijing office, including Vega Liu for all your great tips, beers and assistance along the way, and Guan ‘Coco’ Yuanyuan for letting me use the office as a temporary workspace – a big help! A shout out to everyone who I shared a beer with, and the tips on places to check out. As always lots of love to my girlfriend Kate Morgan, and all my family and friends in Melbourne and London.

  Stephen Lioy

  Makiko, for being a patient partner in travel and life – no matter how long the trips become. Jason, for being a steadfast and reliable friend. See you on the trail soon, I hope. Alina, for being an endless source of information. See you in five more years or so? Becky (of teaandprayerflags.com), for being a far more engaged and invested traveller of Tibetan regions than me, and for making sure that those who follow have the deepest experience possible.

  Shawn Low

  Thanks goes to Jamin Lobsang, Tashi and Tsebtim for showing me the parts of the the world you love and know so well. I also depended on the kindness of strangers: for tips, rides and company. To Megan for sending me back to China and to Wyn-Lyn for your constant support!

  Tom Masters

  Enormous thanks to the people who helped me research this tough destination. Particularly effusive gratitude to Jacob Schickler, who joined me on the road to take pictures for two superb weeks, and whose library of work on Xinjiang is simply superb. I’ve decided not to thank anyone personally inside Xinjiang here, due to the political sensitivities there, but a big shout out to the tour guides, hostel employees, intredpid taxi drivers and bloggers I met on my travels, you know who you are!

  Emily Matchar

  Thanks to Megan Eaves and the rest of the LP team for their terrific work. Thanks to Mao Mao for her excellent hot pot suggestions. Thanks to the staff of Travelling With hostel in Chongqing for all their help and advice. And thanks to my husband, Jamin Asay, for accompanying me on this exploration of the hilly terrain and ultra-spicy food of this part of China.

  Bradley Mayhew

  Thanks to Tenzin and Dechen at Tibet Highland Tours for their help, and to guides Jamyang and Lobsang for their patience. Tashi delek to Sandra Braunfels for coming along on yet another Kailash trek. Cheers also to Jamin York and Sonam Jamphel.

  Rebecca Milner

  I’m indebted to Frank, Marian, Nikki, Ping and so many others whose small kindnesses were deeply felt. Chris P: your advice was so helpful. Megan: this was such an amazing experience, thank you! M&D: none of this would have been possible without you, in so many ways. C, your support means the world to me.

  Kate Morgan

  Thanks to Destination Editor, Megan Eaves, for commissioning me for this great project. Big thanks to Pat Rogers and Chris Rogers for some excellent Shànghǎi suggestions, and thanks very much to my parents Heather and Gary for all of their support. Most important thank you goes to my favourite person and travel partner, Trent, for always being there for me and for all the laughs along the way.

  Tom Spurling

  To Lucy, for following me around the world. To Oliver & Poppy, for keeping our spirits up when we just wanted to go home. To Marcus, for the Jiangxi shuffle and for supporting my television career. To Mo Laoshi, for the local wisdom. To Megan, for the stellar opportunity. And to all the citizens of the PRC, for the sincere enthusiasm towards a traveller who was too busy not getting lost at times to pay you sufficient attention.

  Phillip Tang

  I’m incredibly grateful to 邹嘉 in Shěnyáng not only for hospitality, but for your viciously good knowledge. Big thanks to Megan Eaves, Nigel Chin and Ali Lemer for keen eyes and guidance. Thanks to all the Chinese people
for warmth in their towns - Jimmy in Guǎngzhōu, Wayne in Méizhōu, 小民in Yánjí, Ted in Wǔdàlián Chí and borderlands, and especially Gorden in Cháozhōu. Reflective thanks to family in Guǎngzhōu.

  Acknowledgements

  Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44.

  Cover photograph: Chinese Traditional Opera, Julian W/Shutterstock ©

  Illustrations: Forbidden City and The Bund by Michael Weldon.

  This Book

  This 15th edition of Lonely Planet’s China guidebook was researched and written by Damian Harper,Piera Chen, Megan Eaves, David Eimer, Helen Elfer, Daisy Harper,Trent Holden, Stephen Lioy, Shawn Low, Tom Masters,Emily Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Rebecca Milner, Kate Morgan,Christopher Pitts, Tom Spurling and Phillip Tang. This guidebook was produced by the following:

  Destination Editor Megan Eaves

  Product Editors Kate Chapman, Catherine Naghten

  Senior Cartographer Julie Sheridan

  Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep

  Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Boicos, Nigel Chin, Grace Dobell, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, Paul Harding, Gabby Innes, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Ali Lemer, Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, Anne Mulvaney, Lauren O’Connell,Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson,Vicky Smith, Tracy Whitmey,Amanda Williamson, Simon Williamson

  Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Julie Dodkins, James Leversha

  Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

  Thanks to Jane Atkin, Joe Bindloss, Cheree Broughton, Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Coco Guan, Gemma Graham, Jane Grisman, Corey Hutchison, Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, Indra Kilfoyle, Chris LeeAck, Vega Liu, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Laura Noiret, Tom O’Malley, Ellie Simpson, Nav Sushil, Dora Whitaker

  Ebook thanks to Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Blazej Hadzik, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Glenn van der Knijff, Yanxiang Wang, Juan Winata.

  Our Story

  A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

  Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

  Our Writers

  Damian Harper

  Coordinating Writer, Guǎngxī, Húnán, Shaanxi, Shānxī, Inner Mongolia, Níngxià

  Ten years of British boarding school gave Damian every incentive to explore new horizons beyond home. A degree in History of Art at Leeds University followed in 1995 and a few years later Damian applied to work on the Lonely Planet China guide. Since then, Damian has served as coordinating author on seven editions of the guide and has co-authored multiple editions of the Beijing and Shanghai city guides, Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, Vietnam, Thailand, London, Great Britain and Ireland; Damian also wrote the first edition of Shanghai Encounter and Best of Shanghai and co-wrote China’s Southwest (3rd edition) and two Hong Kong titles.

  Damian also wrote the Understand and Planning chapters.

  Piera Chen

  Hong Kong

  When not on the road, Piera divides her time between hometown Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vancouver. She has authored more than a dozen travel guides and contributed to as many travel-related titles. Piera has a BA in Literature from Pomona College. Her early life was peppered with trips to Taiwan, China and Southeast Asia , but it was during her first trip to Europe that dawn broke. She remembers being fresh off a flight, looking around her in Rome, thinking, ‘I want to be doing this everyday.’ And she has.

  Megan Eaves

  Gānsù

  Megan Eaves is Lonely Planet's North Asia Destination Editor and her writing has appeared in Lonely Planet's guidebooks to China and South Korea. Having lived everywhere from her home state of New Mexico to eastern China and Prague, she's now based in Lonely Planet's London office, where she's the resident beer nerd and dumpling addict. If lost, she is likely to be found stargazing in a desert somewhere.

  David Eimer

  Yúnnán, Běijīng

  David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006.

  Helen Elfer

  Hángzhōu, Shànghǎi

  Helen Elfer made Shanghai her home between 2007-10, so she was delighted to be able to return and contribute to the latest Lonely Planet China and Shanghai guides. After a two-year stint in Abu Dhabi, she moved back to London, working as a travel writer for various newspapers and magazines. She’s currently Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for the Middle East and North Africa.

  Daisy Harper

  Shāndōng, Jiāngsū

  Born in the Shandong town of Qingdao, I grew up in China before going to university in Beijing to study English and then moving to the UK to pursue a career as a journalist and travel writer. A native speaker of Chinese, I have concentrated my energies on China travel, exploring and further fathoming my home country, working on four editions of Lonely Planet China to date.

  Trent Holden

  Běijīng

  A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30 plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs.

  Stephen Lioy

  Sìchuān

  Stephen is a photographer, writer, hiker, and travel blogger based in Central Asia. A ‘once in a lifetime’ Eurotrip and post-university move to China set the stage for what would eventually become a semi-nomadic lifestyle based on sharing his experiences with would-be travellers and helping provide that initial push out of comfort zones and into all that the planet has to offer.

  Shawn Low

  Qīnghǎi

  After many hot, sticky and sweaty years in Singapore, Shawn made for the cooler but more temperamental climes of Melbourne in 2001. He found his way into Lonely Planet as a book editor in 2006. Since then, he's done two stints as a commissioning editor and has constantly (sometimes successfully) flirted with the Lonely Planet TV. Shawn has penned a dozen LP guides and recently co-founded a London-based travel startup Firef.ly.

  Tom Masters

  Xīnjiāng

  Tom has been travelling in China since 2004, having begun teaching himself Mandarin in his bedroom aged 14 during a bout of Sinophilia from which he’s never quite recovered. Tom has written many books about off-the-beaten track destinations for Lonely Planet, including as a regular author on the Central Asia guide, which made him an obvious choice to cover Xinjiang for this book. Tom lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net

  Emily Matchar

  Chóngqìng, the Yangzi, Hong Kong

  A native of Chapel Hill, North Carolina, Emily first caugh
t Relapsing Travel Fever during a high-school semester abroad in Argentina. To date, Emily has contributed to some two dozen Lonely Planet guides. She also writes about culture, travel, politics and food for the New York Times, The Washington Post, The New Republic, The Atlantic, Men’s Journal, Outside, Gourmet and many more. When she’s not busy rating Memphis barbecue joints, wandering around night markets in Laos, or tramping in New Zealand, she can be found chowing down on dumplings in her adopted city of Hong Kong.

  Bradley Mayhew

  Tibet

  Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe's ten most scenic long-distance trails.