by Ed Viesturs
Rugo, Barry, 137
Rupal Face, 274
Russia, 30
Rutkiewicz, Wanda, 64
Sagarmatha, 29
Saint Elias, Mount, 61, 63
Saint Elias Range, 79
Salisbury, Richard, xv
Sang, Gui, 97
Sayle, Murray, 235
Schauer, Robert, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212–13, 214, 215, 216, 217, 221–22, 224, 228, 295, 311
Schmuck, Marcus, 181
Schoene, Robert “Brownie,” xiii
Schoening, Pete, 44, 86, 178
Schwartzberg, Jan, 69–70, 71, 74–75
Scott, Doug, 201, 237, 241–48, 311
Scott, Robert Falcon, 109, 111
Second Step, 56–58, 84, 93–94, 99, 173–74, 176, 278
ladder on, 93, 176
Segarra, Araceli, 208–9, 210, 212–13, 217
Seitzl, Helmut, 151–57
Sella, Vittorio, 101
serac collapses, 72, 118
Seventh Grade, The (Messner), 274
Shackleton, Ernest, 109
Sharp, David, 25
Shatayev, Vladimir, 85, 86, 90
Sherpas, 7, 34, 38, 41–42, 46–47, 50–51, 52, 54, 104, 107, 115, 152, 254, 300, 307
Shih Chan-chun, 172, 173
Shipton, Eric, 101–2, 103, 104–5, 106–7, 108, 111, 112, 114–16, 117, 121–22, 311
Shishapangma, xv, 102, 149, 157, 206, 276, 293
shoulder stand, 174
Sierra Club Books, 184
Siffredi, Marco, 300
Sikhdar, Radhanath, 28–29
Simonson, Eric, 2–3, 5, 6, 7, 12, 15–20, 22, 55, 61, 138, 158, 199
Siri, Will, 179, 181, 188, 195
Smolich, John, 63–64
Smythe, Frank, 100, 101, 104–5, 106–7
Somervell, Howard, 40, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 52–53, 99, 278
Sonam Dendu, 133
South Col (Noyce), 205
Soviet Union, 80, 169–71
Spirig, Bruno, 179
State Department, U.S., 182
Strutt, Edward, 40
“summit fever,” 155
Sunday Times, The, 235
Sungdare Sherpa, 1
Super Direct, 2
supplemental oxygen, xii–xiii, 4–5, 11, 13, 21, 41, 45, 52, 53, 69, 89, 90, 106, 136, 155, 220, 273–74, 275, 308
Swaim, Steve, 4
Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 117
Szafirski, Ryszard, 269
Tabin, Geoff, 255
Tamding (Sherpa), 142, 144, 148
Tashi (Sherpa), 183
Tatras, 265
Taylor, Dave, 151–57
Tejada-Flores, Lito, xii
Terray, Lionel, 179
That Untravelled World (Shipton), 122–23
Thompson, Warren, 83, 86
thrombophlebitis, 85–86, 87
Tibet, 30, 31, 33, 73, 80–81, 111–12, 121
Chinese invasion of, 111–12, 169
Tichy, Herbert, 121
Tiger of the Snows (Ullman), 124
Tilman, H. W. “Bill,” 101–2, 103–4, 105, 106, 108, 111, 112, 113–14, 116, 123, 178
Tingri Dzong, 34
Tobin, Carl, 256
Troillet, Jean, 70, 140, 280–81, 283, 286–87, 288, 289, 290, 291, 299
Tselinshchev, Andrei, 90–91, 92, 93, 95, 96
Tsering, Ila, 198
Tsuzuki, Sumiyo, 209, 210, 212, 217
Tucker, Mark, 97
Tyrrell, Richard, 69–70, 71, 74, 75, 76
Uemura, Naomi, 234, 235
Uli Biaho, 11
Ullman, James Ramsey, 124, 180, 182, 184, 188, 192, 193
University of Washington, 77
Unsoeld, Willi, xii, xv, 20, 26, 63, 179, 183, 185, 188, 189, 195, 196, 198, 199, 200–201, 233, 245, 289
Unsworth, Walt, 27–28, 111, 115, 119, 170–71, 173, 177, 290
Van Hoy, Craig, 3, 15–17, 78
Vaucher, Michel and Yvette, 235
Venables, Steven, 65
Vernon, Ken, 204
Viesturs, Anabel, 297, 312
Viesturs, Ed, xi–xvi
Denali expeditions of, 4
as Everest guide, 150–57, 161–62
and Everest International Peace Climb, 78–98
first Everest climb of, 1–2, 4–20, 22
Georgia Mount Everest Expedition and, 61–77
K2 climb of, 139–40, 141
Kangchenjunga climb of, 78
motivations for, 27, 110–11
physiology of, xiii–xiv, 7–8, 221
risk aversion of, xiv–xv
solo attempt of, 140–49
sponsorship for, 141–42, 150
stolen crampons of, 208
on supplemental oxygen use, xii–xiii
Viesturs, Ella, 294, 312
Viesturs, Gilbert Edmund, 232, 294, 312
Viesturs, Nina, 304, 312
Viesturs, Paula Barton, 158–59, 163, 207, 211, 216–17, 220, 221, 225, 232, 294, 295, 297, 304–5, 306–7, 310, 312
Wade, Ian, 90–91, 92, 97
Wager, Lawrence, 99–100
Wang Feng-tung, 173
Wang Fu-chu, 174, 175
Wang Hangbao, 56
Warsaw Mountain Club, 265
Washburn, Bradford, 29, 78–79, 185
Washington State University, 77
Watson, Dave, 301
Weathers, Beck, 23, 203, 213, 214, 216, 295
Webster, Ed, 65, 66
Wendel, Amy, 128, 129, 131–32, 133–34, 135
Wendel, Hall, 128–29, 131–32, 133–34, 135–36, 151–57, 219
Westmacott, Michael, 125
Wheeler, Edward, 38
Whillans, Don, 179, 235, 236, 237, 238–39, 240
White Tower, The (Ullman), 182
Whittaker, Jim, 78–98, 108, 149, 181, 189–90, 191–95, 201, 242, 305
Whittaker, Lou, 2, 10–11, 13, 62, 77, 78, 190, 305
Whittaker, Peter, 305, 308, 309–10
Wickersham Wall, 63
Wickwire, Jim, 11–12, 13, 17, 143, 149, 254
Wielicki, Krzysztof, 167, 266–68, 269, 270–71, 272–73, 311
Wilcox, Rick, 133, 137
Wildest Dream, The (film), 57
Will to Climb, The (Viesturs), 26, 48, 282, 291–92
Wilson, Greg, 3, 6, 8–9, 10–11, 13–15, 18–19
Wilson, Ken, 236
Wilton, Helen, 159, 207
Wintersteller, Fritz, 181
Wong Chu, 135
Woodall, Ian, 204, 301
World War I, 49–50
World War II, 102, 107–8, 264
Young, Geoffrey Winthrop, 32, 34, 39, 47, 50
Zawada, Andrzej, 263–64, 265, 266, 268–70, 272
Touchstone
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Copyright © 2013 by Ed Viesturs and David Roberts
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form whatsoever. For information address Touchstone Subsidiary Rights Department, 1230 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020
First Touchstone hardcover edition October 2013
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Designed by Akasha Archer
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Viesturs, Ed.
The mountain : my time on Everest / Ed Viesturs with David Roberts.
pages cm
1. Viesturs, Ed. 2. Mountaineers—United States—Biography. 3. Mountaineering—Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) 4. Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)—Description and travel. I. Roberts, David, da
te. II. Title.
GV199.42.V54A3 2013
796.522095496—dc23 2013010320
ISBN 978-1-4516-9473-4
ISBN 978-1-4516-9475-8 (ebook)
Unless otherwise credited, all photographs in the first insert are courtesy of the Royal Geographic Society (with IBG) and all in the second insert courtesy of Ed Viesturs.
JACKET DESIGN BY DAVID TER-AVANESYAN
JACKET PHOTOGRAPH: THE UPPER SLOPES OF EVEREST AS SEEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF LHOTSE, 27,940’, MAY 16, 1994. PHOTO BY ED VIESTURS.
