Mallmann on Fire

by Francis Mallmann

  Meanwhile, core and seed the peppers and cut them lengthwise into ½-inch-wide strips. Slice the potatoes about ⅓ inch thick. Toss the peppers, potatoes, onions, and leeks together in a bowl with the olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, the reserved thyme, and the remaining garlic cloves.

  When the lamb is completely tender, remove it from the oven and raise the heat to 425°F. Remove the lamb from the pan and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat, then arrange the vegetables in the pan. Set a rack over the vegetables, set the lamb fat side up on the rack, and roast, uncovered, for about 30 minutes longer, carefully lifting the lamb so you can turn the vegetables halfway through.

  When the lamb is browned and crisp and the vegetables are tender, remove from the oven, arrange on a large platter, and serve immediately.

  Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera

  If you like rotisserie cooking but don’t have a rotisserie, here is a low-tech alternative. Hanging a leg of lamb or a whole chicken (or both) from a high tree branch with butcher’s twine over a fire works perfectly. I first tried this at my little restaurant in Trancoso (see pages 233–239), and I was quite pleased with my new invention. Then Peter Kaminsky told me that he had once seen the same method used by a Masai cook in the Serengeti, where the result is known as “poacher’s lamb.” He said the man was an A-1 chef, so I wasn’t disappointed to learn that the same inspiration had visited another lover of wood-fire cookery.

  If you have a high, sturdy tree branch at least 10 feet above your grill that extends far enough from the tree itself to prevent it from being harmed by the fire, climb up a tall ladder and loop double lengths of heavy twine over the branch, with enough left over to truss the lamb and chicken. If you don’t have such a tree, you will need to rig a sturdy iron or steel stand to hang the meat so that it will be about 2 feet above the fire.

  Use a double thickness of butcher’s twine or food-grade stainless steel wire to tie up the lamb, configuring loops on the sides and ends for hanging them. Turn occasionally as they cook, and raise or lower them as necessary. SERVES 8 TO 10

  1 semi-boneless leg of lamb, about 7 pounds

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Mint-Chile Salmuera (page 287)

  Build your fire and rake the coals out for medium heat.

  Season the lamb with salt and pepper. If desired, brown it on all sides on an oiled grate over the fire before hanging it from the tree or metal stand.

  Truss the lamb securely with butcher’s twine or wire. Attach the lamb securely to the twine or wire at the end of the shank bone so it is suspended butt end down about 2 feet over the coals. The lamb will be done in about 3½ hours—the internal temperature should read 135°F for medium-rare. Let it rest for 15 minutes before carving. Keep in mind that some parts will be more done than others, so you can serve your guests to their taste.

  Arrange the lamb on a platter and serve the salmuera on the side.

  VARIATION:

  Chicken on Strings

  Suspend a trussed, 4-pound, farm-raised chicken and cook over fire. The chicken will be done in about 2 hours—an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh should read 160°F. Let it rest for 5 minutes before carving.

  Lamb and chickens suspended over a fire. For the chicken, I used rebar from a construction site. The meat receives very even heat, and you can control the amount of heat by raising or lowering the lengths of twine.

  Leg of Lamb with Merguez, Coal-Roasted Delicata Squash, and Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera

  Throw some sausages on the grill just before your leg of lamb is done. Merguez sausages are super-savory and let your palate know “Here comes a meal that makes a strong statement.” The full-flavored lamb really cries out for a vegetable to calm its rowdy effect. I first came across delicata squash in a farmers’ market in Bolinas. It was new to me, and I became an instant convert.

  I placed the squash on top of live coals: no grill, no grate, no plancha. I have become quite fond of cooking this way, letting the ingredients commune with fire without any interference. If I fan the coals before adding the food, I don’t have to worry about it picking up any ashes. The orange-rosemary salmuera complements both the lamb and the squash. SERVES 8

  1 semi-boneless leg of lamb, about 6 pounds

  8 garlic cloves, slivered

  4 fresh rosemary sprigs, broken into small pieces

  4 fresh thyme sprigs, broken into small pieces

  Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Extra virgin olive oil

  1 pound merguez or other lamb sausages

  3 pounds delicata squash

  Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera (page 287)

  Prepare a low fire in a charcoal grill.

  With a small sharp knife, make small evenly spaced incisions on all sides of the lamb. Stuff the incisions with the garlic, rosemary, and thyme, alternating them as you go. Season well with salt and pepper and brush with olive oil. Oil the grill grate, place the lamb on the grate, and grill for about 2½ hours, turning occasionally, until done to taste; an instant-read thermometer will register 135°F for medium-rare.

  When the lamb is almost done, prick the sausages in several places so they don’t burst and add them to the grill. Turn them as they brown; they will take about 15 minutes or so to cook through, depending on the thickness.

  When the lamb is done, transfer it to a carving board and let it rest for 15 minutes.

  Meanwhile, cut the squash lengthwise in half and remove the seeds. Set directly on the coals, skin side down, and cook for several minutes, just until it is lightly charred. Turn and briefly char the cut side. Then remove with tongs, set skin side down on the grill with the sausages, and grill, basting occasionally with olive oil, until the flesh is tender to the center when pierced with a skewer—the timing will vary depending on the size and maturity of the squash.

  Carve the lamb and serve with the sausages and thick slices of grilled squash, with the salmuera on the side.

  Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Rosemary and Thyme and Charred Apple Salsa

  Sweet apples and the perfume of fresh thyme play well against the bold aromas and flavor of grilled lamb. The mistake that people often make with butterflied lamb is to treat it like a porterhouse steak and cook it over a hot fire, with a black-and-blue result (burnt on the outside, raw on the inside). Take your time. Slower is almost always better, and if you want more of a crust, give it a blast over hot coals at the end. As with all big cuts of meat, it is a good idea to use an instant-read thermometer. If you like it rosy, take it from the heat at 135°F and let it rest for 10 minutes. SERVES 6

  FOR THE LAMB

  1 butterflied leg of lamb, about 3 pounds

  1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more if using a grill pan

  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

  1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves

  Grated zest of 1 lemon

  FOR THE SALSA

  1 cup extra virgin olive oil

  3 large shallots, sliced

  4 garlic cloves, very finely chopped

  2 Granny Smith apples

  2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Open the lamb out on a work surface. Brush with the olive oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Scatter the thyme and rosemary leaves evenly over the top of the meat and pat them down firmly to make them adhere.

  Heat a charcoal grill or a deep-ridged two-burner cast-iron grill pan over medium-low heat. If using a grill pan, brush it well with oil and heat until it shimmers. Carefully turn the lamb onto the grill or pan, herb side down, and cook very slowly for about 40 minutes, or until the bottom is crisp and brown.

  Meanwhile, prepare the salsa: Heat a tablespoon or so of the oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally
, until caramelized, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

  While the shallots and garlic are cooking, peel the apples so there is a bit of fruit attached to the skin, and tear the peel into rough 2-inch pieces. Reserve the apples for another use.

  Wipe out the skillet, raise the heat to high, and heat for a few minutes. When the pan is extremely hot, add the strips of apple peel, skin side down, and let them char slowly, without moving them, for 4 minutes, or until they are about half charred.

  Transfer the apples to a board and coarsely chop. Add the charred apple to the shallots and garlic. Stir in the red wine vinegar and then the remaining olive oil, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

  Turn the meat and grill the other side for about 20 minutes more, until it is browned and crisp on the second side and the internal temperature in the thickest part reads 135°F. (The temperature will rise to 140°F or so as the meat rests.) Transfer to a carving board, sprinkle with the grated lemon zest, and let rest for at least 10 minutes.

  Carve the lamb at the table and serve with the charred apple salsa.

  Parrillada of Pork and Vegetables

  In the United States, cooking a whole hog is a spectacle at a meal for big events. This is a similar idea, except I’ve downsized it for 18 people with about a quarter of a pig rather than a whole one. It is broken down into separate cuts so that each can get the proper cooking time and develop a delicious crust. If the neighbors complain, invite them over. If the fire department complains, invite them too.

  This is a long affair, and no doubt some of your grilling-enthusiast friends will want to be there for the whole event. Sausages cook quickly, so they are great to throw on the grill and serve as needed to hungry grillers and kids. Other guests will want to come closer to serving time. They too can have sausages, as well as the appetizers suggested in the menu. The point is, keep the guests fed and happy while they are waiting for the pork.

  Grilling lots of cuts of meat of varying sizes is not an exact science, with precise formulas and timings. Your judgment and experience are invaluable, as is an instant-read thermometer. If you have ever grilled a large cut of meat, then you are familiar with the (usually male) ritual of gathering by the fire and debating whether something is done or not. Often this is punctuated by cutting into the meat a few times. While that is not fatal, it’s much better to leave the meat intact, and that’s where the thermometer comes in. Actually, I don’t use one myself, but I have cooked so many cuts of meat in so many circumstances, I can tell by the touch if something is cooked: the meat has a certain feel or springiness.

  The most important advice I can give you here is to be organized and to get as much done in advance as you can. A large meal with a lot of people inevitably raises the home cook’s anxiety level. Clean the vegetables and prep them. Make your marinades and sauces (or at least partially make them). Think through all the utensils, cutting boards, serving forks, knives, etc., that you will need and have them at hand so that you are not running back and forth to the kitchen—or to the store to buy more charcoal. Remember, half the fun of a cookout is the social aspect. The more organized you are, the more you and your guests can enjoy yourselves.

  Here are some things to include on your checklist for this grand parrillada: you’ll need two grills, one for the pork, one for the vegetables. Ideally, you’ll have a third spot where you can keep hardwood charcoal going to replenish the coals: say a smaller kettle grill or a chimney starter set on a rimmed fireproof base such as a terra-cotta flowerpot saucer. When it comes time to add more charcoal, lift the grate from the grill (with the aid of a helper) and add more hot charcoal. I recommend fireproof insulated barbecue gloves for handling the grate.

  Use grilling trays or baskets to keep the herbs together as you grill them. Use kitchen twine to tie up the herb bundles. Bamboo skewers are useful for testing vegetables. You will need long-handled tongs, forks, and spatulas for turning; two large basting brushes; paper towels; and a cooler with ice and drinks. Have a bowl of water on hand to sprinkle on flare-ups.

  Remember that when you are grilling, you can’t walk away for very long. Have plenty of water to drink and wine to enjoy, but keep your eyes on the meats and veggies. Look at them with care and observe the transformations while you cook. It’s the only way you will learn to be an expert.

  Serving note: the meats will not all be at their perfect point of doneness at the same time. When a cut is done to taste, take it off the grill and carve some small pieces for your guests to enjoy standing around the grill with a glass of wine while they wait for the next one. Eventually, when all the meat is off the fire, you will sit down together for the feast.

  SUGGESTED MENU FOR 18

  Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon (page 49)

  Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil (page 30)

  Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates (page 52)

  Pork sausages

  Various pork cuts with Charred Herb Salsa (page 122)

  Grilled vegetables

  Fresh fruit

  Meats

  The cuts may vary, depending on how your butcher breaks down a pig. The important thing is to get good-quality pork. The shoulder roasts and spareribs all need long, slow cooking to break down the collagen and become tender. Rib and loin chops cook more quickly, and shoulder chops and the sirloin roast are somewhere in between.

  One 4½-pound bone-in pork shoulder roast

  3 pounds spareribs (or more—they are always popular)

  3 pounds country-style ribs

  One 3-pound pork sirloin roast

  4 pounds pork shoulder steaks

  18 sweet pork sausages

  5 pounds pork chops (bone-in)

  Coarse salt

  Freshly ground black pepper

  Vegetables

  The idea here is to buy whatever vegetables are in season and look good at the market. They are cooked until tender, cut in halves or quarters, seasoned with salt and pepper, and arranged on large platters with olive oil for drizzling. The list below is a typical selection.

  6 beets, scrubbed

  6 potatoes, scrubbed

  6 sweet potatoes, scrubbed

  2 large winter squash, such as butternut

  6 onions

  3 fennel bulbs, trimmed (reserve the fronds for the herb bundles)

  4 red or yellow bell peppers

  3 small to medium eggplants

  Garlic bulbs

  3 leeks, trimmed

  8 tomatoes

  4 zucchini

  A bunch of kale, trimmed and tied together

  A large head of bok choy, tied together with kitchen twine

  SUGGESTED TIMELINE

  ABOUT 1 WEEK AHEAD

  ■ Talk to your butcher about the meat and order it if necessary.

  ONE OR MORE DAYS AHEAD

  ■ Check and clean your grills. Buy charcoal. Gather your tools. Grocery-shop.

  DAY OF THE PARRILLADA

  10:00 a.m. to Noon

  ■ Prepare the basting liquid.

  Prepare two batches of this mixture, one for the pork and one for the vegetables. Keep each batch next to the appropriate grill to avoid cross-contamination.

  2 lemons

  2 cups dry white wine

  2 cups extra virgin olive oil

  Cut the lemons in half and squeeze the juice into a bowl. Add the white wine, olive oil, and squeezed lemon halves. Give it a stir to combine, and stir before each baste.

  Noon

  ■ Start a charcoal fire in grill #1 for the pork.

  12:30 p.m.

  ■ When you have a bed of mature coals, use a grill rake or hoe to arrange the coals in a 4-inch-wide strip around the perimeter of the grill.

  ■ Salt the large cuts of meat (shoulder roast, all the ribs, sirloin roast) all over and place bone side down in the center of the grill, not directly over the coals, so that they receive indirect heat. Sprinkle a little more salt on top.


  1:00 p.m.

  ■ Turn the large cuts to expose an uncooked side to the heat and baste. (From now on, you will turn the meat every 30 minutes and baste it.)

  1:30 p.m.

  ■ Start a charcoal fire in grill #2 for the vegetables. Turn the large cuts of meat and baste. Start a third batch of coals in your extra grill or chimney starter to use for replenishing as needed.

  2:00 p.m.

  ■ Turn the large cuts again and baste. Place the shoulder steaks on the grill, over indirect heat.

  ■ Rake the coals in grill #2 so that they are evenly distributed and the fire will be at medium-low heat. Brush the grill grate with oil (use a scrunched-up paper towel held with tongs and dipped into a bowl of olive oil). Arrange the longer-cooking vegetables (beets, potatoes, sweet potatoes, winter squash, onions, and fennel) directly over the coals.

  ■ Replenish the coals in grill #1 as necessary to maintain medium-low heat.

  2:30 p.m.

  ■ Turn the larger cuts of meat to another unexposed side, season with salt and pepper, and baste. Turn the shoulder steaks, season with salt and pepper, and baste.

  ■ Turn the larger vegetables. Timing for the vegetables will vary: Once they brown and soften on one side, they are ready to turn. They are done when you can stick a bamboo skewer or a sharp knife all the way through easily.

  ■ Arrange the softer vegetables (peppers, eggplants, garlic, leeks, tomatoes, zucchini, kale, and bok choy) on grill #2. As the vegetables soften and char, baste and turn them; pay close attention to the bok choy and kale, which will need plenty of basting. Put the herb bundles for the Charred Herb Salsa (page 122) on the grill and proceed as directed in the recipe.