Mallmann on Fire
Page 18
Bulgheroni, Alejandro, 282
Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243
Burnt Shredded Quince, 245
burrata, 30
Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil, 30
butter:
Côte de Boeuf a la Parrilla with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 98
Mussels Steamed in Red Wine-Butter Sauce with Shallots and Parsley, 201
Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149
Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Rosemary and Thyme and Charred Apple Salsa, 115
C
cabbage:
Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 223
Red-Wine-Braised Spareribs with Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 133
Cabral, Pedro Alvares, 235
cachaça, 3
cake, pie:
Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259
Grilled Bizcochuelo Strips with Amaretto and Burnt Shredded Quince, 244
Pionono with Dulce de Leche and Strawberries, 249
Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 264
Tarta de Picho, 264
calafate, 8
Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105
carciofi alia giudia, 39
carrots:
Braised Carrots, 208
Braised Chorizo with Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta, 125
Grilled Carrots with Aged Ricotta and Oregano on Toast, 25
Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 223
Red-Wine-Braised Spareribs with Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 133
cauldron, 2, 152
celery, Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51
chanterelles, Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149
Chapa Bread, 268
chapa (plancha), 2, 8, 13, 17, 18, 19, 36, 42, 274, 294
Artichokes and Fingerling Potatoes a la Plancha, 229
Baby Turnips a la Plancha with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 208
Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105
Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42
Cowboy Rib Eye a la Plancha with Crispy Brioche Salad and Grilled Dates, 97
Eggplant a la Plancha with Cherry Tomatoes and Anchovies, 213
Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192
Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196
Shaved Artichokes a la Plancha with Aged Comté Cheese, 39
Skate a la Plancha with Braised White Beans, Garlic, and Parsley, 174
Sliced Kidney Strips a la Plancha with Salsa Provenzal, 104
use of, 14
Veal Rib Chops and French Green Beans a la Plancha with Romaine-Watercress Salad, 93
Chapel, Alain, 57, 61
charcoal, 8, 19
adding more, 17–18
charcoal, hardwood lump, 17
chard:
Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170–71
Coal-Roasted Zucchini and Swiss Chard, 223
Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203
Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196
Charred Herb Salsa, 122
Charred Mushrooms with Thyme and Garlic Toast, 22
cheese:
Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30
Eggplants Stuffed with Tomatoes and Cuartirolo Cheese, 214
Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52
Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil, 30
Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226
Griddled Cheeses with Parsley, Red Onion, and Cherry Tomatoes, 36
Grilled Carrots with Aged Ricotta and Oregano on Toast, 25
Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates, 52
Potatoes with Smoked Pancetta, Leeks, Cream, and Cheese, 228
Shaved Artichokes a la Plancha with Aged Comté Cheese, 39
Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 264
Chez Panisse, 26, 176
chicken:
Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149
Crisp Chicken Skin, Lettuce, and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich, 75
Griddled Chicken with Charred Herb and Tomato Salad, 157
Smashed Chicken Breast in a Potato Crust with Tomato and Arugula Salad, 148
Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42
Chicken on Strings, 109
chicory, Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149
chile pepper:
Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109
Mint-Chile Salmuera, 287
Tortilla of Prawns with Grilled Potatoes and Avocado, Chile Pepper, and Fennel Salsa, 69
Chilled Flavored Olive Oil, 281
Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259
chorizo, Braised Chorizo with Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta, 125
Chupin de Pescado, 200
churrasco, 78
Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170–71
coal, see charcoal
Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, 171
Coal-Roasted Zucchini and Swiss Chard, 223
Comté cheese, Shaved Artichokes a la Plancha with Aged Comté Cheese, 39
cooking stones, ix
Côte de Boeuf a la Parrilla with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 98
Cowboy Rib Eye a la Plancha with Crispy Brioche Salad and Grilled Dates, 97
cream:
Pears with Malbec, Cream, and Berries, 251
Potatoes with Smoked Pancetta, Leeks, Cream, and Cheese, 228
Creamy Polenta with Fresh Favas and Peas, 220
Crisp Chicken Skin, Lettuce, and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich, 75
Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 290
Tuna Tartare with Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 47
Crunchy Potato Skins with Parsley, 45
Crusty Rice, 219
Cuartirolo cheese:
Eggplants Stuffed with Tomatoes and Cuartirolo Cheese, 214
Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 263
curanto, 8, 277
D
dates:
Cowboy Rib Eye a la Plancha with Crispy Brioche Salad and Grilled Dates, 97
Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates, 52
Duck Breast with Balsamic Vinegar and Asparagus, 158
dulce de leche:
Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259
Pionono with Dulce de Leche and Strawberries, 249
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 258
E
Eggplant a la Plancha with Cherry Tomatoes and Anchovies, 213
Eggplants Stuffed with Tomatoes and Cuartirolo Cheese, 214
eggs:
Asparagus Bundles Wrapped in Bacon with Fried Eggs, 72
Huevos Escrachados with Pancetta, Zucchini Ribbons, and Green Peas, 64
Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203
Red and Golden Beet Salad with Radishes and Soft-Boiled Eggs, 26
Ember-Toasted Bread, 290
Emmental, Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226
endives:
Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42
Grilled Short Ribs with Vinegar-Glazed Charred Endive, 101
Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52
Ensalada de Sopa Paraguaya, 44
F
favas, Creamy Polenta with Fresh Favas and Peas, 220
fennel:
Braised Chorizo with
Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta, 125
Grilled Whole Fish Stuffed with Fennel, 176–77
Tortilla of Prawns with Grilled Potatoes and Avocado, Chile Pepper, and Fennel Salsa, 69
feta, Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30
figs, Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243
Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil, 30
fire cooking:
in brick or clay oven (horno), 15
cinder blocks for, 14
coals for, 8, 17–18
on embers and ashes (rescoldo), 15
feeding the fire, 17
of fish, 183
heat as important to, 14, 15
important tools for, 292–94
Indians and, ix, 2–3, 8, 13, 17, 102, 141–42, 236, 274
meat and, 18, 116, 119
parrillada, 116–21
safety for, 18
in the snow, 152
vegetables and, 18, 116, 119, 152
wooden stakes for, 8
see also specific cooking materials
fish, shellfish:
Chupin de Pescado, 200
Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170
Eggplant a la Plancha with Cherry Tomatoes and Anchovies, 213
Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181
Grilled Dover Sole with Parsleyed Boiled Potatoes, 188
Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86
Grilled Whole Fish Stuffed with Fennel, 176–77
Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192
Mussels Steamed in Red Wine-Butter Sauce with Shallots and Parsley, 201
Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203
Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196
Skate a la Plancha with Braised White Beans, Garlic, and Parsley, 174
Slashed and Stuffed Black Sea Bass with Potatoes, Leeks, and Mushrooms, 193
Split Lobster a la Parrilla with Scallops, 204
sticks to grill, 183
Surf and Swine, 197
Tortilla of Prawns with Grilled Potatoes and Avocado, Chile Pepper, and Fennel Salsa, 69
Tuna Churrasco and Avocado Sandwich, 78
Tuna Tartare with Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 47
flatfish:
Grilled Dover Sole with Parsleyed Boiled Potatoes, 188
Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86
G
garlic:
Charred Mushrooms with Thyme and Garlic Toast, 22
Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170–71
Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192
Skate a la Plancha with Braised White Beans, Garlic, and Parsley, 174
Weeping Lamb, 108
Garzón, 26, 103, 163–64
gauchos, 15, 76, 268
Gelb, Donna, 282
goat cheese, Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52
gooseberry, Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Pineapple and Gooseberry Jelly, 254
Grand Véfour, 57
grapes:
Pork Loin Chops with Thyme Oil and Roasted Grapes on the Vine, 134
Roasted Grapes on the Vine, 282
Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 263
Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226
Gray, Rose, 229
green beans:
Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203
Veal Rib Chops and French Green Beans a la Plancha with Romaine-Watercress Salad, 93
Griddled Cheeses with Parsley, Red Onion, and Cherry Tomatoes, 36
Griddled Chicken with Charred Herb and Tomato Salad, 157
Griddled Red Bartlett Pears Wrapped in Iberico Ham, 33
Grilled Bizcochuelo Strips with Amaretto and Burnt Shredded Quince, 244
Grilled Carrots with Aged Ricotta and Oregano on Toast, 25
Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181
Grilled Dover Sole with Parsleyed Boiled Potatoes, 188
Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86
Grilled and Roasted Leg of Pork Wrapped in Rosemary with Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 129
Grilled Short Ribs with Vinegar-Glazed Charred Endive, 101
Grilled Skirt Steak Sandwich with Watercress, Onion, Tomato, and Mustard, 76
Grilled Whole Fish Stuffed with Fennel, 176–77
H
Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192
ham:
Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226
Griddled Red Bartlett Pears Wrapped in Iberico Ham, 33
hardwood lump charcoal, 17
hearts of celery, Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51
heat levels, 14, 15, 17
Hemingway, Ernest, 57
herbs:
Charred Herb Salsa, 122
Griddled Chicken with Charred Herb and Tomato Salad, 157
Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86
see also specific herbs
horno (brick or clay oven), 15, 274
Huevos Escrachados with Pancetta, Zucchini Ribbons, and Green Peas, 64
I
ice cream:
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 258
Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Pineapple and Gooseberry Jelly, 254
infiernillo, 2, 8
iron, 17
cast-, 14
cleaning of, 17
J
jelly:
Open-Faced Pomegranate Jelly and Lardo Sandwich, 81
Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Pineapple and Gooseberry Jelly, 254
José Ignacio, 163, 181
K
Kaminsky, Peter, 1, 9, 109
kidney, Sliced Kidney Strips a la Plancha with Salsa Provenzal, 104
L
lamb:
Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Rosemary and Thyme and Charred Apple Salsa, 115
Leg of Lamb with Merguez, Coal-Roasted Delicata Squash, and Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 112
Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109
Weeping Lamb, 108
lardo, Open-Faced Pomegranate Jelly and Lardo Sandwich, 81
Ledoyen, 57
leeks:
Potatoes with Smoked Pancetta, Leeks, Cream, and Cheese, 228
Slashed and Stuffed Black Sea Bass with Potatoes, Leeks, and Mushrooms, 193
Leg of Lamb with Merguez, Coal-Roasted Delicata Squash, and Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 112
Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109
lemon:
Blistered Peppers with Charred Onions and Lemon Zest, 45
Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243
Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51
lentils, Albondigas with Lentils, 94
lettuce:
Crisp Chicken Skin, Lettuce, and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich, 75
Veal Rib Chops and French Green Beans a la Plancha with Romaine-Watercress Salad, 93
livers:
Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105
Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42
lobster, Split Lobster a la Parrilla with Scallops, 204
López, Carlos Antonio, 44
M
Maître d’Hôtel Butter, Côte de Boeuf a la Parrilla with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 98
Malbec, Pears with Malbec, Cream, and Berries, 251
Mallmann, Carlos, 8, 251, 2
73
Mallmann, Eloisa, 236
Mallmann, Francis, 1, 2–3
aesthetic of, 1, 3
background of, 7–8
cooking method of, 3
custom grill of, 13, 17
travels of, 8–9, 141–42, 163–64, 235–36
TV show of, ix, 13, 52, 75
Mallmann, Vanina, 2, 235
Marcial (Mallmann’s friend), 273
Mary’s Fish Camp, 45
meat, fire cooking and, 18, 116, 119
meatballs, Albondigas with Lentils, 94
Mecha (Mallmann’s aunt), 264
merguez, Leg of Lamb with Merguez, Coal-Roasted Delicata Squash, and Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 112
milanesa, 148
mint:
Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243
Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates, 52
Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196
Mint-Chile Salmuera, 287
Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109
mushrooms:
Charred Mushrooms with Thyme and Garlic Toast, 22
Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51
Slashed and Stuffed Black Sea Bass with Potatoes, Leeks, and Mushrooms, 193
umami flavor of, 22, 49
Mussels Steamed in Red Wine-Butter Sauce with Shallots and Parsley, 201
mustard:
Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52
Grilled Skirt Steak Sandwich with Watercress, Onion, Tomato, and Mustard, 76
N
New York, N.Y., 141–42
nuts:
Black Bread with Nuts, 267
Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259
Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52
Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181
Pork Chops with Toasted Nuts, 128
Toasted Nuts, 283
Toasted Nut Salsa, 283
O
Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203
oil:
Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105
Chilled Flavored Olive Oil, 281
Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170
Pimentón Oil, 171, 281
Pork Loin Chops with Thyme Oil and Roasted Grapes on the Vine, 134
olives, olive oil:
Chilled Flavored Olive Oil, 281
Potato Salad with Black Olives, 48
olla de barro, 226
onions:
Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30
Blistered Peppers with Charred Onions and Lemon Zest, 45
Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105