The Adventurer's Guide to Britain
Page 4
1 Escape the city by bike
The Thames Valley Cycleway starts at Putney Bridge in south-west London and makes its way along a mixture of riverside paths, quiet lanes, bridleways and purpose-built cycleways to Oxford, an interesting and enjoyable adventure of just under 100 miles (161km). Unlike the Thames Path National Trail, which is for walkers only, it only follows the general direction of the river – you can’t cycle alongside the river all the way to Oxford. The route follows the Sustrans National Cycle Network Routes 4 and 5 and is well waymarked throughout. There are some stretches of multi-user track alongside fairly busy roads, but in general the route does an excellent job of avoiding these and the cycling is enjoyable and interesting. Of its 99 miles (159km), approximately 40 (64km) are traffic-free.
The route: starting at Putney Bridge, the route follows the river and heads through Richmond Park, before leaving London towards Staines. From here it leaves the waterside, with only the occasional glimpse of the Thames until it reaches Oxford. On the way it passes through Windsor Great Park before arriving in Reading. Between Reading and Wallingford there’s some lovely cycling on quiet country lanes, and also some challenging climbs as you go up and over the Chilterns. After Wallingford it’s a fairly straightforward ride via Abingdon to finish at Oxford. There’s a wide range of refreshment and accommodation options along the route, and the time you take will depend on the level of challenge you’re after.
Challenge level:
Start: Putney Bridge, London, SW15 2PD
Finish: central Oxford
Distance: 99 miles/159km
Maps: National Cycle Network Route 4 and Route 5, Sustrans OS Explorer 160, 161, 170, 171, 172 and 180
Local Highlights
For a longer, multi-day ride NCN Route 4 joins the Kennet and Avon cycle route to Bristol and South Wales (see here ).
Take some time out to explore the Chilterns as the route passes through the hills and the Vale of the White Horse.
2 Run Richmond Park
A run around Richmond Park always has a surprise in store, whether you’re heading out on a frosty, misty morning through smart coffee-scented streets, or joining a group for a sunny, social Sunday-morning run. It’s so near to the city, yet some reaches have a wild feel that’s more akin to moorland or meadow. Hills rise to a tree-lined horizon; herds of red and fallow deer graze peacefully in the shade or lie in big groups in the grass; ducks and geese waddle about the ponds. Created by Charles I as a deer park in the 17th century, Richmond is the largest of London’s Royal Parks. It is internationally important as a wildlife conservation area and is also a National Nature Reserve, a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Area of Conservation.
The Tamsin Trail is a great introduction to running in Richmond, and our go-to route whenever we’re in the city. It’s a waymarked, surfaced loop around the edge of the park, ideal for a gentle jog or a hard training session, or even for a timed 6-mile (10km) with a mile’s warm-up. The loop is buggy-and wheelchair-friendly and is also perfect for exploring as you can leave and join it as you wish, following the smaller trails into the heart of the park. It’s worth getting there early in the summer months to avoid the crowds.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Pembroke Lodge, Richmond, TW10 5HX
Distance: 7¼ miles/11.7km
Map: OS Explorer 161
Local Highlights
Explore the park by bike. Park Cycle (www.parkcycle.co.uk) has a range of bikes to hire, including kids’ bikes, seats and tagalongs.
Refuel at the Roehampton Café, or at one of the refreshment points located near Broomfield Hill and Pen Pond car parks.
Wander around the 40-acre Isabella Plantation, a Victorian woodland with streams, ponds, fascinating wildlife and the national collection of ‘Wilson’s Fifty’ Kurume azaleas, imported from Japan in the 1920s.
3 Swim at Hampstead Heath Ponds
Set within the green oasis of north-west London’s Hampstead Heath are 30 or so spring-fed ponds that were originally dug in the 17th and 18th centuries as reservoirs. Three of these are now large freshwater swimming ponds – one for women, one for men and one mixed. The ponds are open for year-round swimming, within specified opening times, and are lifeguard-patrolled. Swimwear is compulsory, and you are permitted to wear a triathlon or swimming wetsuit at the lifeguard’s discretion. There are changing areas, benches and pegs for belongings, toilets and showers, along with sunbathing areas.
The water in the ponds is brown and murky, but the quality is regularly monitored and there’s plenty of wildlife, including kingfishers, herons and crayfish. The ponds are very deep, with access via ladders, so you do need to be a confident swimmer.
The ponds are managed by the City of London Corporation, which asks for a voluntary entry fee of £1–£2 towards the maintenance of the pools and facilities.
During the summer months the water temperature can reach a balmy 20+ degrees Celsius; however, for the ultimate challenge head to the ponds in winter, when it can be near zero.
Challenge level:
Location: Hampstead Heath, Highgate, London, NW3 1BP
Map: OS Explorer 173
Local Highlights
Explore the area around Hampstead Heath’s tumulus, nearly 800 acres of ancient heathland and woodland.
Eat at the Castle Café in Stoke Newington, part of the famous Castle climbing centre – one of the best indoor climbing venues in London
Hire a traditional Thames skiff – a wooden rowing boat – and camp out on the river (www.skiffhire.com).
4 The Chelmer & Blackwater Canoe Trail
The river Chelmer rises in Debden in the north-west of Essex and flows south to Chelmsford. Here it becomes a canal, continuing east to join the canalised section of the river Blackwater. Engineered by John Rennie between 1793 and 1797, it is the only waterway in the country that is still owned and operated by its original company of proprietors. The river was straightened in the early 19th century to make it more navigable for boats carrying coal and timber – in one case by moving an island, clearly visible on a 1777 map, to fill in a bend. Today it’s a pretty place, the riverbanks lined with willows and the former industrial buildings, such as Papermill Lock, turned into refreshment stops. The route is almost entirely rural, with just a short industrial section through Heybridge village. You will need a licence to paddle the main river – a day licence (£5 at the time of writing) is available to buy online from waterways.org.uk.
The full route is approximately 14 miles (22.5km) long, with 11 locks. Papermill Lock, halfway along, has a tearoom and many moored boats and interesting buildings – a paddle from here to Hoe Mill and back makes for a shorter alternative of around 5 miles (8km) with only one portage.
Further on, at Beeleigh, the river Blackwater and the top of the tideway form a confluence. After this the Long Pond carries the Chelmer and Blackwater Navigation down the final stretch to Heybridge Basin, where there are plenty of waterside pubs for post-paddle refreshments.
Challenge level:
Start: Springfield Lock, Wharf Road Car Park, CM2 6HY – put in just below the lock
OS grid ref: TL 717063
Finish: Daisy Meadow car park, Heybridge Basin, Maldon
OS grid ref: TL 871069
Distance: 14 miles/22.5km (11 locks)
Maps: OS Explorer 176 and 183
Local Highlights
Enjoy a Tiptree cream tea at The Lock tearoom, owned by the makers of Tiptree preserves.
Explore Northey Island, owned by the National Trust and the closest you’ll find to wilderness in Essex. It only becomes an island at high tide, so time your walk carefully.
Sleep on Northey Island – the annual summer Castaway weekend gives you the opportunity to stay on the island, with plenty of entertainment provided for all the family.
5 The Tennyson Trail
Outside its busy cities, Hampshire encompasses some wonderful areas of wildness in which to seek out adventures, in
cluding the western part of the South Downs National Park, the southern edge of the North Wessex Downs AONB and the majority of the New Forest.
As well as being a great place for cycling, the Isle of Wight has a strong running heritage, hosting the oldest continuously held marathon, which has been run here every year since 1957. The many trails that cover the island make for some truly great running, with beautiful views, varied landscapes and lots of wildlife to spot – this is one of the few remaining areas in the UK to have a thriving population of red squirrels. The Tennyson Trail is a challenging, scenic run across the Isle of Wight, starting from Carisbrooke in the island’s centre and heading out over hills and through picturesque Brighstone Forest to the Needles and around to Alum Bay. The route climbs over Bowcombe Down, Brighstone Down, Mottistone Down, Compton Down, Tennyson Down and High Down, each with its own tough ascent and fast descent. The fantastic central ridge has great views across the island and out to sea. Finally, the route descends to its finish at Alum Bay. If you’re keen to complete a full crossing of the island there are a number of enjoyable options. One of the best starts in Ryde and follows the Nunwell Trail south and then the Bembridge Trail west to Newport, winding through the streets to Carisbrooke, where you can pick up the Tennyson Trail to Freshwater to complete a full north–south crossing.
Challenge level:
Start: Carisbrooke, Newport, PO30 1NR
Finish: Alum Bay, PO39 OJD
Distance: 14½ miles/23km
Map: OS Explorer OL29
Local Highlights
Refuel at The Hut at Colwell Bay, Freshwater. On a calm day the swimming in the bay is fantastic.
Take part in the annual Solent Swim: 1.2 miles (1.9km) from Hurst Castle on the mainland to Colwell Bay on the Isle of Wight.
6 Isle of Wight by Bike
The Isle of Wight has been called one of the best places to cycle in the world. Arriving here on one of the many ferries from the mainland, it’s easy to see why. A network of beautifully maintained tracks, byways and bridleways criss-crosses the island, linking the main settlements through varied and interesting countryside.
The Round the Island cycle route is 62 miles (exactly 100km) long and is well-waymarked with blue and white signs. It’s all on road, but the roads are generally very quiet, many running close to the coast with great views out to sea. The route is undulating and can be exposed and windy at times, though most cyclists should expect to complete the loop in a day. If you want to explore more along the way, however, there’s a huge range of places to stay, allowing you to split it up into two or more sections. There are also plenty of places to stop for refreshment en route, particularly in the larger villages and towns, including Cowes and East Cowes, Ventnor and Yarmouth, together with Freshwater, Bembridge, Niton and Brighstone. You can cycle the route clockwise or anticlockwise, starting and finishing in Cowes and crossing over the floating bridge to finish.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Cowes, Isle of Wight
Distance: 62 miles/100km
Map: OS Explorer OL29
Local Highlights
If you’d rather not cycle the route alone, join 3,000 others during the Isle of Wight Randonnee, a non-competitive cycle ride that takes place every spring.
The Isle of Wight Cycle Festival, a week-long celebration of all things cycling, is held each September, and is another fantastic way to experience the island by bike.
Wake up to spectacular coastal views camping at Grange Farm in Brighstone Bay (www.grangefarmholidays.com).
7 A Beaulieu River swim
The Beaulieu River was once known as the river Exe and runs for 12 miles (19km) from Lyndhurst in the New Forest to the sea on Hampshire’s coast at Needs Ore Point. The final 4 miles (6.4km) of the river, downstream from the village of Beaulieu, are tidal and make for a challenging but enjoyable swim. Begin your swim as the tide starts to fall, following the wide twists and turns seawards – it’s a delightful experience, a real feeling of adventure with plenty to see along the way. The Beaulieu River and its bank form part of a National Nature Reserve, particularly important for its bird life. Needs Ore Point is home to the largest colony of black-headed gulls in the country, and further upstream you might spot Brent geese, teal, ringed plover, black-tailed godwit, terns, shelduck, curlew, redshank and oyster catchers.
Avoid swimming here after heavy rain or during extremes of tide; note also that swimming is prohibited in the marinas, so enter the water well away from them. Be aware of the many boats that use this stretch of water – a bright swimming cap and a safety buoy are strongly recommended. The picturesque Solent Way runs alongside the river as far as the historical shipbuilding village of Buckler’s Hard; if you jump out here, again taking care to avoid the marina, it’s a pleasant route back to Beaulieu.
Challenge level:
Start: Beaulieu village, SO42 7YG
Finish: Buckler’s Hard, SO42 7XB
Distance: 2½ miles/4km
Map: OS Explorer OL22
Local Highlights
Take part in an organised open-water swimming session at nearby Ellingham Lake: Wednesday and Saturday mornings, 6–8 a.m. (there is an entry fee).
Go exploring in the New Forest, where you’ll find miles of walking, running and cycling trails, wild ponies and diverse landscapes from forest and heathland to the picturesque coastline that edges Lepe Country Park.
8 Black Down & the Temple of the Winds
At 920 feet (280m), Black Down marks the summit of the South Downs National Park. It’s a place that feels elevated and remote from its surroundings, and here and there from the paths that circle the hills are glimpses of far-reaching views of the towns and countryside below. Scots pines grow tall and straight, and belted Galloway cattle – part of a conservation grazing programme – roam the hillsides. Black Down has a fascinating history, with flint artefacts suggesting there has been human habitation here since the Mesolithic period, some 8,000 years ago. The area is also home to Aldworth, built in 1869 by Alfred Lord Tennyson. At the southern tip of the loop you’ll find the Temple of the Winds, a place to stop and take in the magnificent views. The seat here is in memory of the Hunter family, who gave Black Down to the National Trust in 1944, and Tennyson’s old summerhouse stood near here.
The route: from the start it’s about a mile (1.6km) up and along the main ridge, heading due south on a sunken track edged with bilberries in summer. There are several paths, all of which wind enjoyably in a north–south direction to eventually reach the viewpoint at the Temple of the Winds. The trig point marking the summit stands a couple of hundred metres north of the Temple of the Winds – a nice navigational challenge to find. Return by one of the many paths that lead back to the start.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Tennyson’s Lane main National Trust car park, Haslemere, GU27 3BJ
OS grid ref: SU 917311
Distance: 2 miles/3.2km
Map: OS Explorer OL33
Local Highlights
Stay in rustic luxury at Surrey Hills Yurts, an eco-glamping site deep within the countryside (www.surreyhillsyurts.co.uk).
Visit the Black Down Distillery in Lurgashall, where you’ll find everything from silver birch gin and walnut liqueur to traditional mead made with local honey.
Hunt for sticklebacks in the ancient mill ponds at Shottermill.
9 Kayak the Wey Navigation
The Wey Navigation is Surrey’s oldest waterway, running from Weybridge, at the River Thames, to Guildford 16 miles (26km) south. Here it joins the Godalming Navigation, extending the waterway another 4 miles (6.4km) to Godalming. This beautiful stretch of river, owned and managed by the National Trust, is an incredibly peaceful place to explore by kayak, as it is buzzing with wildlife and at times feels a million miles from the busy south-east. Much of the farmland it runs through has no public access, so you’ll find yourself paddling through deserted, quiet countryside with just the herons for company. You can launch from the
Wey Kayak Club in Guildford and explore from there – Dapdune Wharf along the way is well worth investigation. The kayak club also offers training courses and social paddles. The 4 miles (6.4km) between Guildford and Godalming provide a perfect introduction to the river, or you can paddle the full length over a day or more; there are 14 well-spaced locks and two sets of floodgates along the 20-mile (32km) stretch, so you’ll need to be happy to portage these, along with any weirs you encounter.
To paddle here, you will need either a current Navigations Licence from the National Trust or British Canoeing membership. You can purchase a licence from the Navigations Office at Dapdune Wharf, where you can also get advice on current conditions. Avoid the river when it’s in flood and be aware of other river users.
Challenge level:
Start: Wey Kayak Club, Guildford Waterside Centre, Riverside, Guildford, GU1 1LW
Finish: Godalming
Distance: 4 miles/6.4km
Map: OS Explorer 145
Local Highlights
Camp at Mellow Farm at the edge of the Wey near Farnham. There are lots of adventures available to those staying on site; you can hire a kayak or launch your own from the site (mellowfarmadventure.co.uk).
Don’t miss the Wey River Festival, with food, crafts and an illuminated floating pageant, held each September (free entry).
Refuel or stay at the Merry Harriers in Hambledon, just outside Godalming, or go on a llama tour there (www.merryharriers.com).