by Jen Benson
Challenge level:
Start: Farndon Bridge, CH3 6QF, OS grid ref:
SJ 412544
Finish: Queen’s Park Suspension Bridge, Chester
OS grid ref: SJ 408659
Distance: 11 miles/18km
Maps: OS Explorer 257 and 266
Local Highlights
Make a weekend of it in September at the Goodlife Experience, a weekend of music, food, workshops, culture and tales of adventure on the Hawarden Estate.
Celebrate your successful descent at the excellent Old Harkers Arms, right by the canal.
12 Ride the Wayfarer
‘Wayfarer’ was the pen name of Walter MacGregor Robinson, a journalist and pioneer of off-road cycling. His writings in Cycling magazine inspired many others to get out exploring the trails and his popular lantern talks drew large crowds who would cycle long distances to hear him speak. After Wayfarer’s death in 1956 a memorial was erected on the Bwlch Nant Rhyd Wilym, one of Wayfarer’s favourite crossings.
There are three main route options to get you started. The first is a simple out-and-back ride up the pass to the memorial, a little over 5 miles (8km) each way. From Llanarmon head north-west up the lane, through Pentre, the landscape becoming more mountainous as you climb. Bear left where the road becomes a track and ascend alongside a stream trending north-west to reach the memorial at grid ref SJ 091365. Return the same way. For the second route, carry on at the memorial, heading west and bearing left at the fork. Continue along this track to reach the track junction at grid ref SJ 051375. For the 18-mile (29km) option, turn left here and follow the bridleway trending north over Moel Pearce and between the peaks of Cadair Berwyn and Cadair Bronwen. Staying on the bridleway, descend steeply to join the lane at grid ref SJ 098319. Work your way back along quiet lanes to return to Llanarmon. There is also a full, 30-mile (48km) classic loop: Llanarmon – Wayfarer pass – Llandrillo – Llangynog – Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant – Llanarmon. Don’t attempt either of the long routes in wet weather.
Challenge level: up to
Start/finish: Llanarmon LL20 7LD
OS grid ref: SJ 156328
Distance: 10 miles/16km or 18 miles/30km or
30 miles/50km
Map: OS Explorer 255
Local Highlights
Eat and stay at The Hand in Llanarmon, a favourite haunt of the Wayfarer himself (www.thehandhotel.co.uk).
Camp at Dol-Llys Farm – picturesque Welsh countryside camping on the banks of the young River Severn, perfect for an early morning dip (dolllyscaravancampsite.co.uk).
Riding with an experienced guide is a great way to get the most out of an area; we recommend Flattyres’ knowledgeable, friendly guides (www.flattyres-mtb.co.uk).
13 Offa’s Dyke & the Clwydian Range
The full length of the 177-mile (285km) Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail makes a great adventure to walk over a week or two, following the regular acorn waymarkers and soaking up the varying and engaging landscapes. There are also many circular walks that use the trail. The final section of the Offa’s Dyke Path runs through the Clwydian Hills, taking in the open upland vistas and chequered hillsides – an outstanding point-to-point adventure. Our route extends slightly past the official ends of the Clwydians, but in doing so it also starts and finishes conveniently at towns with railway stations, making the logistics of the adventure fairly straightforward. The 44-mile (71km) journey from Chirk, just south of the hills, to the end of the trail at Prestatyn might take 2–3 days to walk or run, but the return part of the trip will have you back in just an hour. The route starts in Chirk, with its 14th-century castle and estate, owned by the National Trust. It crosses the Dee on the much-photographed Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and runs below the ancient fortress of Eglwyseg Rocks. A crossing of the bleak Llandegla Moor is a warm-up for the traverse of the Clwydian Range, dotted with Iron Age hillforts and cloaked in heather and bilberry. The final stretch descends enjoyably off the ridge to greet the sea at Prestatyn.
Challenge level:
Start: Chirk railway station, Chirk, Wrexham, LL14 5LT
Finish: Prestatyn railway station, Prestatyn, LL19 7ER
Distance 44 miles/71km
Maps: OS Explorer 201, 216, 240 and 256
Local Highlights
Visit the Grade I listed, 13th-century Chirk Castle (National Trust) and walk around the stunning estate.
Explore Llangollen, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes the 11 miles (18km) of canal from Gledrid to the Horseshoe Falls via the spectacular Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. There’s a steam train or a horse-drawn boat available to discover the area if you’re weary after your adventure.
14 Swimrun the Rhinogydd
The Rhinogydd mountains occupy a quiet, untamed corner of Snowdonia where rocky gullies and knife-edged peaks tower over forested river valleys. Exploring these mountains, it seems as though there’s a llyn in every crevice, every long uphill slog rewarded by a glassy pool. Rhinog Fawr is one of the highest peaks in the range, rising to 2,362 feet (720m) at its summit. A perfect summer day’s adventure can be found here, running, scrambling and swimming the llyns.
The route: from the start the route heads south on a footpath through woodland and then straight up the Roman Steps, the well-preserved remains of a medieval packhorse trail leading from Chester to Harlech Castle. If you’re feeling brave you can drop down to the left and have a quick swim in Llyn Morwynion. At OS grid ref SH 66049 29906 turn right off the main path and ascend south and then south-west to Llyn Du for the next swim. From here an enjoyable scramble up a gully takes you to the summit of Rhinog Fawr. Enjoy the views before returning for a second swim of Llyn Du, this time heading west out through the notch and descending to the western shores of breathtaking Gloyw Llyn, the ‘gleaming lake’. Swim the length of the lake before rejoining the path northwards to return to the car park.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Cwm Bychan car park 1¼ miles/2km NE of LL45 2PH
OS grid ref: SH 645314
Distance: 5 miles/8km
Map: OS Explorer OL18
Local Highlights
Stay at Dinas campsite in nearby Llanbedr, set in peaceful surroundings with campfires allowed (www.hideaway-in-the-hills.com).
Visit the vast, sandy beach at Harlech, backed by nature-rich dunes and the turreted medieval Harlech Castle.
15 Paddle Lake Bala
Lake Bala, also known as Llyn Tegid, lies in a glacial valley surrounded by mountain peaks. This is an area steeped in myth and legend, including one told by the 6th-century poet Taliesin about Tegid Foel and his wife, the witch Ceridwen, who lived by the lake. Another tells of the drowning of the old town of Bala by the evil prince Tegid Foel – the lake was named after the cruel prince and it is said that of a dark night the lights of the town can still be seen shining from the lake. Lake Bala is 3¾ miles (6km) long by 0.5 miles (0.8km) wide, and the out-and-back paddle is the Welsh stage of British Canoeing’s Three Lakes Challenge, although if you’re not concerned about the time you take, then a full circuit is a more interesting day out. The river Dee runs through the lake, meaning it is prone to sudden flooding, so don’t attempt to paddle it during or after heavy rain. To paddle here, you’ll need to purchase a permit from the Lake Warden’s Office. Kayak and stand-up paddleboard hire is available from Bala Watersports on the foreshore, and whitewater rafting sessions are available at the National Whitewater Centre (from £35 pp).
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Lake Bala (Llyn Tegid)
Foreshore, Bala, Gwynedd, LL23 7SR
Distance: 7 miles/11km out and back
Map: OS Explorer OL23
Local Highlights
Stay at Bwch-yn-Uchaf Caravan and Camping Site, right at the edge of the lake (bwch-yn-uchaf.co.uk).
The Eagles Inn at Llanuwchllyn at the southern end of the lake serves locally sourced food and good beer.
Jump on the narrow-gauge Bala Lake Railway, run by volunteers, to see the ar
ea from a different perspective.
16 Scramble the North Face of Tryfan
Rising like a giant’s backbone out of the Ogwen valley, Tryfan is one of Wales’s most recognisable mountains, with many classic routes up to its 3,011-foot (917.5m) summit. Perhaps the most famous route up Tryfan is the North Ridge – a long and thrilling Grade I scramble that makes a perfect introduction to the activity. Looking up at the ridge from the A5 it rises skywards, compelling you to climb it. A great challenge for those finding their feet (and hands) in scrambling, the ridge has relatively straightforward terrain and low exposure. Don’t underestimate the challenges though, particularly when it comes to navigation.
One of the biggest challenges is finding the right line to start with, particularly in poor visibility, so it’s worth taking extra care when you begin to ensure you’re heading up the right route, or you could find yourself on something much harder. Most scramblers start from the A5 lay-by directly below the North Ridge and follow the path to the left of Milestone Buttress. The path steepens and rises towards a large boulder field. Turn right here and scramble up loose scree to a steep step of rock. Climb up this and continue up the wide ridge, following some quartz slabs. Carry on straight up the North Tower for some the best views in the area. The final section finishes at the twin stones of Adam and Eve, and the traditional way to celebrate summiting Tryfan is to jump between these, if you dare. From here head down the South Ridge, either carrying on over Bristly Ridge for more wonderful scrambling or, for the shorter descent, turning right at Bwlch Tryfan and descending to the eastern shore of Llyn Bochlwyd and following the path north down Bochlwyd Buttress back to the main road.
NB: this route is relatively straightforward on a clear, dry day but a much more serious prospect in poor visibility, or in wet or winter conditions.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: A5 lay-by just east of Idwal Cottage YHA
OS grid ref: SH 661602
Distance: 2½ miles/4km
Map: OS Explorer OL17
Local Highlights
There are two campsites at the foot of Tryfan: Gwern Gof Uchaf and Gwern Gof Isaf. Both are good and well positioned for exploring the area.
Tackle the incredible mountain ridges of the Glyderau, to the south of Tryfan, and the Carneddau, to the north.
Hire an experienced and knowledgeable guide from local adventure company Raw Adventures for the best Snowdonia experience (www.raw-adventures.co.uk).
17 Cycle Snowdon
We were surprised – and excited – when we first discovered you’re allowed to mountain bike to the top of Snowdon. It’s well worth a trip, and it’s an excellent alternative to the usual busy walk and summit crowds. The main reason for the lack of crowds on such trips is that there is a voluntary ban on riding here between 10am and 5pm from 1 May to 30 September, so two-wheeled expeditions on the mountain must be undertaken out of season or at dawn/dusk. Flattyres Mountain Biking offers guided excursions up the mountain (www.flattyres-mtb.co.uk).
The route: starting in Llanberis (SH 581599), head south towards Pen-y-Pass. At the mini roundabout turn right onto Victoria Terrace. Continue straight over the cattle grid, past the café and through a gate, taking the next left onto a bridleway signed ‘Snowdon’. This is the Llanberis Path and it will take you all the way to the top – how much you ride and how much you push is up to you and your legs. On reaching the summit, admire the views and come back down the same way. If you’re happy on more technical trails, you can also descend via the Snowdon Ranger Path, turning right at Maesgwm to return to Llanberis.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Llanberis
OS grid ref: SH 581599
Distance: 11 miles/18km
Map: OS Explorer OL17
Local Highlights
If you’re confident in your mountain skills, the Snowdon Horseshoe is one of THE great challenges in North Wales. It curves around the eastern cwm of the massif in a great arc, linking the four principal summits. None of the scrambling is harder than Grade I, but it’s sustained and the consequences of falling are often serious. The ridges of Crib Goch and Crib y Ddysgl, which leads to Snowdon’s second highest peak Garnedd Ugain, are exposed and tricky to escape, but an incredible adventure. Don’t attempt in poor weather.
18 Swim Llyn Padarn
Go exploring in the higher reaches of Snowdonia National Park and you’ll find countless llyns and pools of a fantastic variety of shapes and sizes cradled within the features of the mountains. There’s something utterly magical about reaching the top of a long, steep ascent on a hot summer’s day and finding a deep, clear pool appearing like a mirage before you. This really is wild swimming at its absolute wildest and best.
Since 2014, Llyn Padarn on the edge of Llanberis village has been a designated freshwater bathing lake, its water quality carefully monitored under the Bathing Water Directive. The 2-mile (3.2km) stretch of outstanding open-water swimming is perfect for anyone looking for an endurance swim, and there are many lagoons and inlets to explore for a real adventure swim. This is also a great place to paddleboard – Snowdonia Watersports right on the lakeside offers guided paddles and tuition.
There is parking around the lake, and you can even catch the steam train that’ll take you along the Llanberis Lake Railway to the start.
Challenge level:
Location: Llyn Padarn, Llanberis, LL55 4TY
Distance: 2 miles/3.2km end to end
Map: OS Explorer OL17
Local Highlights
Refuel at legendary climbers’ cafe Pete’s Eats in Llanberis, ‘possibly the best caff in the world’ (www.petes-eats.co.uk).
Camp at Camping in Llanberis (www.campinginllanberis.com), perfectly positioned for exploring Llyn Padarn and Snowdon.
Take part in the annual Love Swimrun Llanberis event held at the lake each June (www.loveswimrun.co.uk).
19 The Nantlle Ridge
Hidden in a peaceful corner of the north-west edge of Snowdonia, a few miles west of Snowdon itself, lies the Nantlle Valley. This is a place entrenched in history and legend that feels different and removed from the tourist-lined slopes nearby. The Nantlle Ridge is a grassy stride along elegant curved arêtes, linking all the summits in the range. The views are incredible, and worth picking a clear day for, and although there are plenty of sections with enough scrambling to make it more interesting than a straightforward ridge run, there’s nothing that could be considered scary. There are some broad, grassy sections of the ridge that are up there with the best running experiences to be found on earth.
The route: start from Rhyd Ddu, using either the tiny station served by the narrow-gauge Welsh Highland Railway, which runs between Caernarfon and Porthmadog, or the National Park car park. Head west through the ornate gate on the other side of the road and follow the slate path towards the ridge. The traverse begins steeply with an ascent of Y Garn, at 2,077 feet (633m). Continuing along the rising and falling trail brings you to Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd, topped with an obelisk built for Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897. The next summit is the high point of the ridge, Craig Cwm Silyn, at 2,408 feet (734m), from where the summits decrease in height again and the ridge finishes with Mynydd Graig Goch, at 610 m.
There are various options to turn the route into a loop, though you’ll probably find, as we did, that on reaching the end you just want to turn around and do it all again. Llyn y Gader at the finish in Rhyd Ddu is a great place to cool off after a few hours’ mountain running.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Rhyd Ddu Car Park, LL54 6TN
OS grid ref: SH 571527
Distance: 12 miles/19km out and back
(6 miles/9.5km each way)
Map: OS Explorer OL17
Local Highlights
The Rhyd Ddu path up Snowdon also begins at the car park. A relatively secret way up the popular mountain, connoisseurs say it’s the most peaceful and most beautiful way to the top. The final traverse of the Bwlc
h Main ridge is utter joy.
Local company Raw Adventures offers excursions with experienced and knowledgeable guides across Snowdonia (www.raw-adventures.co.uk).
20 Ride the Copper Trail
Anglesey was once one of the world’s largest producers of copper, an industry going back thousands of years. The Copper Trail was designed to enable people to visit some of the fascinating sites of this important heritage that remain visible today. The route travels past Cemlyn Nature Reserve with its large lagoon, separated from the sea by a spectacular, naturally created shingle ridge. The reserve is home to many species of birds, wildflowers and marine creatures. It also passes Swtan – the island’s last-remaining thatched cottage – Amlwch Port and the Copper Kingdom at Parys Mountain.
Following a well-waymarked network of quiet lanes and paths along National Cycle Network Route 566, the Copper Trail explores the beautiful Anglesey coast between Llanddeusant in the west and Llanerchymedd in the east. Using a short section of NCN Route 5, it can be linked up to make an enjoyable 34-mile (55km) loop around the north of the island, with some gentle climbs but nothing too strenuous. There are two unsigned shortcut routes across the middle of the loop should you wish to shorten it. For a bigger adventure, you can ride the full loop around Anglesey, keeping to the coast – a ride of around 60 miles (97km) by the shortest route along primarily main roads, though this could be extended to use quieter routes and explore further. The Copper Trail can be started at any point on the loop; it passes through the village of Llanfechell, where there is a pub and car park.
