by Jen Benson
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Llanfechell, Anglesey
OS grid ref: SH 369 912
Distance: 34 miles/55km
Maps: OS Explorer 262 and 263
Local Highlights
Base yourself at the excellent Plas Lligwy Cottages, set in 300 acres of farmland and 90 acres of woodland which guests are free to explore. Within the farm’s boundaries lie Din Lligwy, a Romano-British settlement dating from the 4th century, Hen Capel Lligwy, a tiny ruined 12th-century chapel and Lligwy Burial Chamber, a neolithic cromlech. It’s only a short walk to Lligwy Beach, where you’ll find a beach café (www.lligwy.co.uk).
21 Explore Holyhead Mountain
At 722 feet (220m), Holyhead Mountain (Welsh: Mynydd Tŵr, from (pen)twr, meaning tower) is the highest hill in Anglesey, rising from the far north-west corner of the island and sloping steeply down to the Irish Sea on two sides. The summit views on a clear day stretch far across the sea to Ireland’s Wicklow Mountains.
Being just a pint-sized mountain, it’s easy to explore within the distance of just a few miles. One of our favourite routes makes for an enjoyable walk or run, although give yourself plenty of time to stop and take in the many interesting sights you pass along the way.
The route: from the Country Park head north-west directly onto the Coast Path and pas the North Stack fog signal station, from where there are wonderful coastal views across to the rugged cliffs of South Stack. The path then winds its way southwards before climbing to the rocky, heather-clad summit with its fantastic views and Iron Age hill fort. Descending back to the Coast Path, the route goes through the South Stack part of the Seabird Centre, where you might spot puffins and oystercatchers. The final stretch takes you around the base of Holyhead Mountain and back to the Country Park.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Breakwater Country Park,
Holyhead, LL65 1YG
OS grid ref: SH 225832
Distance: 5 miles/8km
Map: OS Explorer 262
Local Highlights
Refuel at the Black Lion in Holyhead, great for local food and ales (blacklionanglesey.com).
Visit the Skerries, a small group of uninhabited islands just off Holyhead, home to a vast number of seabirds and an RSPB reserve. Regular boats from Holyhead.
22 Around Llanddwyn Island
Llanddwyn Island, or Ynys Llanddwyn, is not, in fact, quite an island, except at the very highest of tides. But, positioned at the mouth of the Menai Strait in the far south-west of Anglesey, it does feel removed and special, and completely different from the mainland – an island identity perhaps. Peaceful and serene in sunny weather, yet untamed and exhilarating in a storm, it’s a perfect place to spend a few hours exploring, and a full circumnavigation is only an hour or two’s walk or less at a run. Llanddwyn (Newborough) Beach, just to the east of the island, is a great place to swim, bordered by forest and extensive dunes and with wonderful views of Snowdonia National Park.
The route: from Newborough Beach car park head straight out onto the beach, turning right and running along the sandy shore towards the rocky outcrops of the island, visible in the distance. At Llanddwyn follow the clear path that heads south-west – one of two main paths that traverse the length of the island. Follow this wonderfully runnable trail, drinking in the sights and sounds all around you until you reach the path’s end, a perfect place to stop and enjoy the views. Head back, following the alternative path to the mainland. Back on the main beach, either take the path inland after 300 metres and then head right back to the car park or return via the beach. Please be aware that access to the island is limited during very high tides.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Newborough Beach car park, 1½ miles/2.4km SW of LL61 6SG
Distance: 3½ miles/6km
Map: OS Explorer 263
Local Highlights
Visit Newborough Warren National Nature Reserve, a haven for wildlife including oystercatchers, cormorants and wading birds.
For confident paddlers there’s some enjoyable kayaking to be found along the length of the Menai Straight; otherwise hire a local guide to take you. There’s also an annual Menai Challenge – a time trial along the Straight – (www.performanceseakayak.co.uk).
23 Paddle the Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – one where the Welsh language and customs are carefully conserved. Its separation from modern, urban life along with its resplendent natural features make it a popular place to visit, particularly for those who love the outdoors life.
Aberdaron lies at the south-western end of the peninsula, a pretty, former fishing village bordered by the wide, sand-edged arc of Aberdaron Bay. Sea kayaking is the way to explore here, with miles of coastline and secret coves to explore. Or take a trip over to Bardsey Island, the legendary ‘Island of 20,000 Saints’, and see the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey, as well as the seals and seabirds, and even dolphins further out to sea. If you’re not an experienced sea kayaker there are several local companies offering guiding, tuition and kayak/paddleboard hire. The National Trust, which owns and looks after much of this stretch of coast, has partnered with local company Llŷn Adventures to offer drop-in introductory sessions (chargeable). You can also book guided kayak tours and hire kayaks through them.
Challenge level:
Location: Aberdaron Bay, LL53 8BE
Map: OS Explorer 253
Local Highlights
Head for one of the many great surfing beaches on the Llŷn Peninsula, including popular Hell’s Mouth or the more secluded Porth Ceiriad.
Camp at Nant-y-Bîg, a splendidly positioned campsite overlooking the sea near Abersoch.
Have a post-paddle pint at the Ty Coch Inn, Porthdinllaen, LL53 6DB.
S outhern & Central Scotland
The sparsely populated moorland and forest of the Southern Uplands are interspersed by several ranges of hills, ripe for exploration. To the north lie the Central Lowlands, home to 70% of Scotland’s population alongside easy access to amazing outdoor adventures. There are two contrasting National Parks here: Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, and the mighty Cairngorms, as well as the secret sandy beaches of Argyll, and, on the opposite side of the country, the Moray Coast. There’s something for everyone here, from gentle sightseeing rambles to multi-day epic adventures.
The Borders, Dumfries & Galloway
The Borders are dotted with intriguing historical sites, and the Pennine Way finishes its 267-mile (430km) journey here. To the west lies Dumfries and Galloway with its rocky, sandy coast, lush inland forests and rolling hills. It’s a fantastic destination for mountain bikers, and a fine place to spot wildlife.
Around Glasgow & Edinburgh
Glasgow and Edinburgh boast a surprising number of green spaces and the two cities are linked by the Union Canal. Further afield lie wild lochs and coastline, and the lesser-known ranges of the Pentland and Ochil hills.
Argyll
Stretching westwards from Loch Lomond to take in the intricate, island-dotted coastline, Argyll is perfect for those who love water-based adventures. Discover coastal bike rides, sea kayak trails and incredible wild swimming.
Loch Lomond & the Trossachs
Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park covers 720 square miles (1,865 sq km) of mountains, glens and forests. It’s a relatively easy area of Scotland to reach from the south, with a diversity of landscapes that lends itself to adventures of all kinds. Loch Lomond itself is 24 miles (39km) long and the largest lake in Britain by surface area, with more than 30 islands dotting the water, great for exploring by kayak or paddleboard. The West Highland Way runs along the eastern shore of the loch, on its 96-mile (154km) route from Glasgow to Fort William.
The Central Grampians
The Grampians occupy almost half the land area of Scotland and encompass Britain’s highest mountains, Ben Nevis in the west and Ben Macdui within the Cairngorm range to the east. The central regi
on is home to Scotland’s most remote Munro, Ben Alder, and the vast, windswept wilderness of Rannoch Moor.
The Cairngorms
Home of one of the great mountain writers, Nan Shepherd, and many of the great mountain challenges, five of the UK’s six highest mountains and an incredible 55 Munros can be found here. Much of the range lies deep in snow and ice over the winter, but comes alive with wildlife and multi-day adventures in summer.
Moray, Angus & Aberdeenshire
Bottlenose dolphins, seals, porpoises and even orcas are found along this coastline, with its superb sandy beaches, high cliffs and rocky sea stacks. South of the Cairngorms, the gentle Sidlaw Hills make for some enjoyable days out. Within easy reach of the granite city of Aberdeen lie Aberdeen beach, a wide sandy bay, and the Aberdeenshire coast, fantastic for epic endurance challenges as well as for the local wildlife.
1 Bikepack the Tweed Cycleway
Starting in Biggar at 655 feet (200m) above sea level and finishing on the coast in Berwick-upon-Tweed, the Tweed Cycleway is a 95-mile (153km) waymarked cycle route that runs through the heart of the Scottish Borders following the meandering route of the river Tweed. Passing through picturesque countryside and visiting historical sites, the route is almost entirely on quiet roads and makes for an enjoyable ride, whether you’re doing it in a day or taking a few days, exploring as you go. There are many glorious views to admire and interesting towns along the way, such as Peebles, P Melrose, Kelso and Coldstream. The route is undulating, with a few steep sections to challenge the legs. It is normally tackled from west to east, as described, to take advantage of the prevailing winds and the greater overall descent in this direction. The route can also be started in Carstairs (approximately 10 miles/16km from Biggar), where there is a railway station; there is also one at the finish in Berwick.
Cycling is a great way to explore the Borders, and there’s a huge number of cycle routes – visit cyclescottishborders.com for lots of information.
Challenge level: if done in a day
Start: Biggar High Street, ML12 6DA
Finish: Berwick-upon-Tweed, TD15 1DG
Distance: 95 miles/153km
Maps: OS Explorer 336, 337, 338, 339 and 346
Local Highlights
Enjoy a well-earned refuel at the Barrels Ale House in Berwick-upon-Tweed, where there’s regularly live music in the evenings.
Explore the medieval Berwick Castle, a remnant of Anglo-Scottish warfare. The fortifications encircle the whole town – an intriguing circular walk (English Heritage; free entry).
2 Run the Mull of Galloway Trail
The headland of the Mull of Galloway is Scotland’s most southerly point. A long, slender peninsula, like an anchor into the Irish Sea, it is a nature reserve and one of the last remaining sections of natural coastal habitat on the Galloway coast, home to a wide variety of plant and animal species. The Mull of Galloway Trail is one of Scotland’s Great Trails, with two sections, one from the Mull to Stranraer and the second from Stranraer along the eastern shore of Loch Ryan to Glenapp. In total the trail is 34 miles (55km) in length, however the main section is a glorious 24-mile (39km) run the full length of the peninsula, hugging the coast the whole way. This is a remote and unspoilt area and the route takes you along high headlands, across sandy bays and through countryside and small settlements. It is waymarked throughout and begins at Robert Stevenson’s lighthouse, where there’s also a car park. Regular buses connect Stranraer with the Mull of Galloway, making for a great day’s adventure starting with a breathtaking run down to the Mull, a refuel with a view at the Gallie Craig Coffee House (www.galliecraig.co.uk), and a scenic bus ride back. Look out for red squirrels, deer and seals along the way way. There’s a railway station at Stranraer, making the whole adventure very achievable by public transport.
If you’d prefer to experience running the Mull of Galloway with company and water stations, there’s an annual trail marathon each May.
Challenge level:
Start: Mull of Galloway, DG9 9HP
OS grid ref: NX 157303
Finish: Stranraer, DG9 8EJ
OS grid ref: NX 065609
Distance: 24 miles/40km
Map: OS Explorer 309
Local Highlights
Visit the six Gardens of Galloway, Scotland’s garden route through an incredible variety of flora growing in the relative warmth of the Gulf Stream (www.scotlandsgardenroute.co.uk).
Immerse yourself in the Galloway wilds at North Rhinns camping (www.northrhinnscamping.co.uk).
3 Ride the 7stanes
Kirkpatrick Macmillan is generally credited with being the inventor of the pedal bicycle. Born in 1812 in Keir, a small parish in Dumfries and Galloway, and a blacksmith by trade, he was reportedly seen out riding on a ‘velocipede of ingenious design’, according to a local newspaper. A 1939 plaque on the family smithy in Courthill reads: ‘He builded better than he knew’.
It therefore seems fitting that this part of Scotland is home to the internationally renowned 7stanes mountain bike centres, all packed with a range of trails of outstanding quality and located in awe-inspiring landscapes managed by the Forestry Commission. Each centre is marked with a ‘stane’ (Scottish for stone) – a sculpture depicting a local myth or legend – designed by artist Gordon Young. There are, in fact, eight trail centres, as two (Glentress and Innerleithen) share one of the stanes. Access to the trails is free, although there is a car-parking charge if you use the on-site car parks. All the centres have a great range of trails with grades to suit everyone, from green family trails to technical black routes. Here’s the full list – can you ride them all?
Maps: OS Explorer 313, 319 and 322
The 7stanes
Forest of Ae – home to the shortest place name in Britain – has two downhill runs, the Shredder, a ¾-mile (1.1km) introduction to downhilling, and the trickier, mile-long Ae Downhill.
Mabie Forest, on the Solway Coast, has an outstanding 12-mile (19km) red route, the Phoenix, with a great mixture of natural trails and singletrack through this picturesque and wildlife-rich forest.
Dalbeattie Forest, also on the Solway Coast, surrounds Plantain Loch, often busy with gulls, ducks, herons and damselflies. The blue-graded Moyle Hill Trail takes you on an 8¾-mile (14km) escape, with fantastic views across the Urr estuary.
Kirroughtree, on the edge of Galloway Forest, has an exhilarating and technical 8¾-mile (14km) black route – Black Craigs – that combines fast-flowing singletrack with technical sections over granite-strewn trails.
Glentrool lies deep in the heart of Galloway Forest. The excellent Big Country Route is an epic 36-mile (58km) adventure taking in minor public roads and forest roads, long climbs and steep descents, along with beautiful views of Galloway’s lochs and hills.
Glentress and Innerleithen are the most northerly of the 7stanes centres. At Glentress you’ll find the world-renowned Red Route: 11 miles (18km) of finely balanced technicality and pure exhilaration. Innerleithen is the place to go for downhill thrills.
Newcastleton lies right on the Anglo-Scottish border and is one of the quietest of the centres. There’s a blue-graded family ride and an outstanding red route with 15 miles (24km) of glorious singletrack.
4 Swim Loch Skeen
Located in a remote corner of Dumfries and Galloway, the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall tumbles 200 feet (60m) down the rocky hillside from Loch Skeen into the Moffat water valley. Managed by the National Trust for Scotland, the area is a nature reserve and abundant in wildlife, including a resident herd of wild goats. From the car park on the A708 a steep, winding, rocky path makes its way up the side of the falls, and at the top a short stretch of level moorland brings you to the peaceful shores of Loch Skeen, ringed by the craggy plateau. Swim in the clear water (wetsuit recommended) watching peregrines wheeling above. Return by the same route. You can also walk all the way around the loch – a little under 2 miles (3.2km).
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Grey
Mare’s Tail car park on the A708
OS grid ref: NT 186145
Distance: 3 miles/5km
Map: OS Explorer 330
Where deep deep down, and far within Toils with the rocks the roaring linn; Then issuing forth one foamy wave, And wheeling round the giant’s grave White as the snowy charger’s tail Drives down the pass of Moffatdale.
Sir Walter Scott
Local Highlights
Sleep in well-equipped safari tents or bring your own tent and choose from the walled garden, the woods or wild camping out on the hillside at Wild Woods Camping Ruberslaw (www.ruberslaw.co.uk).
Explore the Southern Upland Way and the Annandale Way from nearby Moffat.
Refuel at the Gordon Arms in Mountbenger.
5 Bikepack the Scottish C2C
The Scottish C2C is a 125-mile (201km) waymarked cycle route that winds across the Southern Uplands, linking Annan on the Solway Firth with South Queensferry on the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh. The route was conceived by David Gray and John Grimshaw, the cyclists behind the English C2C, along with walking and cycling charity Sustrans. The route takes in a mixture of country lanes, designated cycle paths and seaside promenades. It features two challenging climbs, the first over the classic Devil’s Beef Tub and the second through the Moorfoot Hills, before opening out onto a panoramic view of the Lothians, Edinburgh Castle and the Firth of Forth. It finishes under the mighty Forth Rail Bridge.
With a bit of planning it’s perfectly possible to ride the Scottish C2C without using a car. The nearest mainline station to the start in Annan is Carlisle, and it’s a 21-mile (34km) ride from Carlisle to Annan, where there are plenty of places to stay so you can start fresh in the morning. At the finish it’s 11 miles (18km) from Queensferry to the station in Edinburgh.
