The Adventurer's Guide to Britain
Page 18
As ferries don’t run to where the route starts, to get to the start point you’ll need to catch a ferry from Oban to Barra and cycle down to Vatersay. From here you can pick up the trail at its southernmost point. Along the route the ferry points all work well, but you’ll need to carefully plan your logistics before you go. Much of the riding is also across remote stretches of landscape, so you’ll need to make sure you have enough food and water for these. It’s worth the planning though – the full crossing is an adventure like no other.
Challenge level:
Start: Vatersay, Isle of Barra, HS9 5YL
Finish: Butt of Lewis, HS2 OXF
Distance: 150 miles/241km
Maps: OS Explorer 452, 453, 454, 455, 456,
457, 458, 459 and 460
Local Highlights
There’s so much to see along the route, including Luskentyre Sands, one of the largest and most spectacular beaches on Harris; the Neolithic Callanish (Calanais) Standing Stones on Lewis; Kisimul Castle, standing on an island off Barra; and Traigh Mhor Beach on Lewis, with cottages to stay in right by the sea.
8 Isle of Harris Sea Snorkel Trail
Harris and Lewis are the largest of the islands in the Outer Hebrides. Sparsely populated, yet rich in cultural heritage, these are fascinating places to visit – wild and rugged, with mountains, windswept moorland and miles of stunning coastline edged with white, sandy beaches and clear, wildlife-rich seas. One of the best ways to explore the coast is by snorkelling, and the Scottish Wildlife Trust has set up several snorkel trails around the north-west Highlands and Harris. There’s so much to spot beneath the waves, from small sea squirts, sponges and anemones right up to dolphins, whales and basking sharks.
There are snorkel trails available for all levels, from beginner-friendly sheltered bays to those requiring a longer swim to reach, further out to sea. All are best done in calm conditions for the best visibility and safety. Always check tides, currents and forecasts before you go and never snorkel alone. Use good-quality equipment and wear a wetsuit to keep you warm and protect you from jellyfish stings. Once you’re in the water, follow the Snorkeller’s Code:
•Do not remove seaweed or animals from the rock or from their homes.
•Take care not to kick sealife with fins or stand on delicate animals.
•Observe animals where they live and don’t take anything away with you.
The North Harris snorkel trail takes in six outstanding snorkelling sites: Hushinish, Seilamol Bay, Aird Asaig, Carragraich Bay, Port Rhenigidale and Loch Mharaig.
Challenge level:
Location: various locations in North Harris
Map: OS Explorer 456
Local Highlights
Stay at the tiny, utterly remote-feeling Cnip Grazing campsite, with fantastic views.
Take part in the Stornoway Half Marathon, which takes place in May.
Sleep in a restored traditional blackhouse (www.gearrannan.com).
Hire a bike and go exploring on two wheels (www.bikehebrides.com).
9 The Old Man of Hoy
Hoy is the second-largest island in the Orkney archipelago. Standing close to Rackwick Bay on the west coast of Hoy, the Old Man is a 449-foot (137m) sea stack, one of the tallest of its kind in Britain. It is famous for rock climbing, and the original route, graded E1, was first climbed in a televised ascent by Tom Patey, Rusty Baillie and Chris Bonington in 1966. There are several other harder routes on the stack.
The classic walk to the Old Man of Hoy is an enjoyable and straightforward out-and-back route of nearly 6 miles (10km). Ferries to Hoy will drop you at Moaness, from where you can take a minibus to the beautiful, remote beach at Rackwick Bay – enclosed by red sandstone cliffs, its sands have a pink hue. From here the walk follows the main, signposted track all the way to the Old Man, with outstanding views of the island and surrounding coast throughout. You can either return by the same route or explore further, continuing along the coast to the impressive cliffs at St John’s Head, the highest vertical cliffs in the UK. This adds around two hours to the walk. Hoy is also wonderful by mountain bike; from the ferry you can ride across the island to Rackwick Bay – a little over 4 miles (6.4km) – before continuing on to the Old Man.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Rackwick Bay, Hoy
OS grid ref: ND 202992
Distance: 5¾ miles/9.2km
Map: OS Explorer 462
Local Highlights
If you don’t fancy leaving Hoy yet, you can stay at Burnmouth Cottage bothy, OS grid ref: ND205987.
Refuel at the Beneth’ill Café near the pier at Moaness.
10 Explore Eshaness
In the far north-west of Shetland, the Eshaness peninsula experiences the full force of the North Atlantic, which has sculpted the coastline into an intricate series of stacks, caves, blowholes and geos. The peninsula is the remains of the Eshaness volcano, and you can still see fascinating layers of lava and rock from a volcanic eruption 350 million years ago. Eshaness’s breathtaking scenery, diversity of landscape and historical interest, along with its ease of access, make it a great place to explore.
The route: starting at the lighthouse, perched high on an outcrop of volcanic rocks (available as a holiday let), this wonderful loop takes you along the dramatic coast to the head of Calder’s Geo, a deep inlet gouged by the sea into the dark rocks. Continue north-east along the coast towards the great, sea-carved hole of Grind of the Navir, with its bouldery beach and strange sea loch. Continue north-east to The Burr, and after Croo Loch head back south-west, reaching the Loch of Houlland and following its western shore. Finish past the twin inlets of Drid Geo and Calder’s Geo before returning to the lighthouse.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: lighthouse car park, ¾ mile
(1.2km) W of B9078 at West Heogaland
OS grid ref: HU 206784
Distance: 4 miles/6.4km
Map: OS Explorer 467
Local Highlights
Braewick, on Eshaness, has a campsite, café/restaurant and craft shop, with exhilarating views out across the sea stacks (www.eshaness.moonfruit.com).
All photographs copyright © Jen and Sim Benson, except: Dr Gordon Baird: here; Glyn Baker CC-BY-SA: here; Bala Watersports: here; Steve Barber/Go Lakes: here; Alexander Beaven: here; Zana Benson: here , here, here; Andrew Bone CC-BY-SA: here; Nick Bramhall CC-BY-SA: here; British Tourist Authority: here; Daryll Brown: here; Mark Bullock: here; James Burke CC-BY-SA: here; James Clapham: here, here, here, here, here; Oliver Clarke CC-BY-SA: here; Pauline Collie: here; Russ Colman: here all; Douglas Cook CC-BY-SA: here; Scott Cormie CC-BY-SA: here; Cat Crimmins: here; Cycle Scottish Borders: here; Cycletherapy: here; Brett Daniel: here, here; Duncan Davidson: here; Chris Davies Photography: here; Colin Down: here, here, here, here; East Midlands Tourism: here; www.stevenfallon.co.uk: here, here; Elm Farm: here, here all; Forestry Commission: here ; Peter French CC-BY-SA: here; Everett-Kelway family: here; Martyn Gorman CC-BY-SA: here; Michael Graham CC-BY-SA: here; David Gray: here; Tim Green CC-BY-SA: here; Meraid Griffin: here; Jamie Hageman: here; Robert Hamilton/Vigour Events: here; R Haworth CC-By-SA: here; Heineken Race to the Tower: here; Eileen Henderson CC-BY-SA: here; Graham Hewitt CC-BY-SA: here; Hostelling Scotland: here; A M Hurrell CC-BY-SA: here David Iliff CC-BY-SA: here; Alison Ingleby & Sam Taylor: here all; Steve Ingleby: here; Kate Jamieson: here; Ollie Jay/Active4Seasons: here; Kate Jones/Sustrans: here; Marek Kargier: here; Colin Keldie/Orkney.com: here; Pete Kelly/Swim the Lakes: here; Kevin Lelland/John Muir Trust: here; Nick Lishman: here, here both; Adam & Becky Lockyear: here, here, here, here; Love SwimRun: here; Stephen & Bethany Lovell: here, here; Anna Mabbett CC-BY-SA: here; Dave Maclennan CC-BY-SA: here; Sean McClean CC-BY-SA: here; Jason Marker: here; Kevin Marshall: here; Joe Minihane: here, here; Simon Mortimer CC-BY-SA: here; Peter Mulligan CC-BY-SA: here; National Trust: here; Natural Retreats: here; Nilfanion CC-BY-SA 4.0: here; Don O’Driscoll/John Muir Trust: here; Matt Pearce: here; Richard Pea
rce: here , here, here; Mike Pennington CC-BY-SA: here; Lucy Perkins & Sam Foggan: here, here ; Martin Pettitt CC-BY-SA: here; Pure West Media: here here, here; Tracy Purnell: here, here, here; Paul Raistrick: here; Fiona Rennie: here; Karen Roe CC-BY-SA: here; SDNPA/Sam Moore: here, here; Chris Sloan: here here; StaraBlazkova CC-BY-SA: here; Phill Stasiw: here, here; Summonedbyfells CC-BY-SA: here; Support TNI: here; STVOID CC-BY-SA: here; David Taylor: here, here; Tighnabruaich Sailing School: here; Adam Tilt: here, here; Robert Tilt: here here, here, here; Carron Tobin: here, here, here; Valenta CC-BY-SA: here main; Visit Britain: here, here, here, here; Visit Britain/Lee Beel: here; Visit Britain/Daniel Bosworth: here; Visit Britain/Adam Burton: here, here, here, here; Visit Britain/Joe Cornish: here; Visit Britain/Nadir Khan: here, here ; Visit Britain/David Shepherd: here; Visit East Lincolnshire: here; Visit England/Roger Clegg: here; Visit England/Alex Hare: here; Visit Isle of Wight: here; Visit Scotland: here inset; Visit Scotland /Kenny Lam: here, here; Visit Scotland/Paul Tomkins: here; Visit Wales: here , here , here, here ; Adam Ward CC-BY-SA: here; Alun Ward: here, here; Eigenes Werk CC-BY-SA: here; John Weller: here Ann Wessel: here, here, here; Wildman Media/Breca Swimrun: here, here; Paul Wildman Mitchell: here; www.wildernessscotland.com: here, here, here; Dave Willis/Go Lakes: here, here; Steve Wilson CC-BY-SA: here; Ben Winston/Trail Running: here; Kate Worthington/RAW Adventures: here, here, here; Laraine Wyn-Jones: here; Yorkshire Dales NPA: here.
Acknowledgements
Our heartfelt thanks to the amazing outdoor adventure experts who have given their time, knowledge and photographic skills to this project – we couldn’t have done it without you. Thanks to Liz Multon for saying yes; Penny Phillips, our brilliant and patient editor; Calvin Evans, who designed the pages; Chris and Clare; Eryl; Lucy, Sam and Osker; Joe and Zana; James and Monika; Paul Wildman Mitchell; Carron Tobin; Mark Bullock; Neil, Adam and Dave; Ordnance Survey and the GetOutside team; Howies and Vaude, whose outstanding ethical kit kept us warm and dry on our adventures; the editing and production team at Bloomsbury; and, as always, to E and H for sharing with us the greatest adventure of all.
Jen and Sim Benson
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