Travels into the Interior of Africa

by Mungo Park

  While we were unloading the asses, John Walters, one of the soldiers, fell down in an epileptic fit, and expired in about an hour after. The Negroes belonging to our guide set about digging a well, having first lighted a fire to keep off the bees which were swarming about the place in search of water. In a little time they found water in sufficient quantity to cook our suppers, and even supply the horses and asses in the course of the night.

  Being apprehensive of an attack from the Bondou people, placed double sentries, and made every man sleep with his loaded musket under his head. Latitude by mer. alt. of the moon, 14° 38’ 46” N.

  About three o’clock buried John Walters, and in remembrance of him wish this place to be called Walters’s Well.

  May 16th – Departed from the well as soon as day dawned, and reached the Neaulico at half-past eight o’clock. This stream is nearly dry at this season, and only affords water in certain hollow places which abound in fish. Saw Isaaco’s Negroes take several with their hands, and with wisps of grass used as a net to frighten the fish into a narrow space. One of the fish was a new genus.

  Saw in the bed of the river some Negroes roasting a great quantity of flesh on temporary wooden stages erected for the purpose.

  This half roasting and smoking makes the meat keep much longer than it would do without it. The flesh was part of a Da qui which they found on the road; a lion had killed it during the night, and ate one leg of it.

  At four o’clock p.m. departed from the Neaulico. At five, passed the ruins of Mangelli, where I formerly slept, and at six o’clock halted for the night at Manjalli Tabba Cotta, the ruins of a village so called. The wood during this day’s march is in general small, and the road is much interrupted with dry bamboos. Plenty of water at the resting-place.

  May 17th – Left Manjalli Tabba Cotta, and after a fatiguing march of twelve miles, reached Bray, a watering-place. Endeavoured to take the meridional altitude of the sun, by the back observation with Troughton’s pocket sextant; and after carefully examining his rise and fall, with the intervals betwixt each observation, I was convinced that it can be done with great accuracy, requiring only a steady hand and proper attention. This was a great relief to me; I had been plagued watching the passage of the fixed stars, and often fell asleep when they were in the meridian.

  We left Bray at three o’clock p.m. and carried with us as much water as we possibly could, intending to rest at Nillindingcorro till the moon rose; but there being no water, our guide continued our march to the river Nerico, which we reached at eight o’clock, all the people and asses very much fatigued. Face of the country during this day an open and level plain with bushes and Cibi trees, making the prospect rich, though not grand. Saw plenty of lions’ excrement in the wood: they deposit it only in certain places, and like the cats, claw up the ground in order to cover it.

  May 18th – People employed all the morning in transporting the baggage and asses across the river; and as both men and asses were very much fatigued, I thought it best to halt on the east side of the river till the afternoon, as it would afford the soldiers an opportunity of washing their clothes.

  The breadth of the stream of the river Nerico is about sixty feet, the depth of water four feet, its velocity is two miles an hour. The heat of the stream at two o’clock 94° Fahrenheit.

  Chapter 2

  Arrival at Jallacotta – Maheena – Tambico – Bady; hostile conduct of the Faranba, or chief, and its consequences – Reach Jeningalla – Ironfurnaces. Mansafara – Attacked by wolves – Enter the Tenda wilderness – Ruins and Plain of Doofroo – Attacked by a swarm of bees – Arrival at Sibikillin – Shea trees – Badoo – Tambacunda – Ba deema river – Tabba Gee – Mambari – Julifunda; unfriendly conduct of its chief; and presents sent to him and the king – Visit from the latter – Reach Eercella – Baniserile – Celebrate His Majesty’s birthday – Mode of fluxing iron – Madina – Falema river – Satadoo – Sickness and death of the carpenter – Arrival at Shrondo; commencement of the rainy season; and alarming sickness amongst the soldiers – Gold mines; process for procuring the gold – Dindikoo; gold pits – Cultivation – Arrival at Fankia.

  MAY 18TH – We left the Nerico about half-past three o’clock, and arrived at Jallacotta, the first town of Tenda, at sunset. From this place to Simbuni in Bondou is two days’ travel.

  May 19th – Halted at Jallacotta in order to purchase corn and recruit the asses. Bought plenty of onions, which made our rice eat much better. Townspeople fishing in the woods, where the pools being nearly dry, the fish are easily taken.

  May 20th – Left Jallacotta, and about two miles to the east, passed the village of Maheena, close to which are the ruins of another village of the same name. It would appear from the number of ruins, that the population of Tenda is much diminished. We reached Tendico, or Tambico, about eight o’clock: we could not procure a bullock, the inhabitants having very few cattle. This village belongs to Jallacotta; and the Faranba of Jallacotta is subject to the king of Woolli. About half a mile from Tambico is a pretty large town called Bady, the chief of which takes the title of Faranba, and is in a manner independent. He exacts very high duties from the coffles, to the extent of ten bars of gunpowder for each ass-load.

  We sent a messenger from Tambico to inform the Faranba of our arrival, and he sent his son in the evening with twenty-six men armed with muskets, and a great crowd of people, to receive what we had to give him. Sent him ten bars of amber by our guide; but as he refused to take it, went myself with five bars of coral, which he likewise refused. Indeed I could easily perceive from the number of armed men, and the haughty manner in which they conducted themselves, that there was little prospect of settling matters in an amicable manner. I therefore tore a leaf from my pocketbook, and had written a note to Lieutenant Martyn to have the soldiers in readiness; when Mr Anderson, hearing such a hubbub in the village, came to see what was the matter. I explained my doubts to him, and desired that the soldiers might have on their pouches and bayonets, and be ready for action at a moment’s notice. I desired Isaaco to inform him that we had as yet found no difficulty in our journey; we had readily obtained the permission of the kings of Kataba and Woolli to pass through their kingdoms, and that if he would not allow us to pass, we had then only to return to Jallacotta, and endeavour to find another road; and with this (after a good many angry words had passed between the Faranba’s people and our guide) the palaver ended.

  Matters were in this state, Faranba’s son had gone over to Bady with the amber and coral, and we were preparing to return to Jallacotta early next morning, when about half-past six o’clock some of Faranba’s people seized our guide’s horse, as the boy was watering it at the well, and carried it away. Isaaco went over to Bady to enquire the reason of this conduct; but instead of satisfying him on this point, they seized him, took his double-barrelled gun and sword from him, tied him to a tree, and flogged him; and having put his boy in irons, sent some people back to Tambico for another horse belonging to an old man that was travelling with us to Dentila. I now told two of Isaaco’s Negroes that if they would go with me into the village and point out the Faranba’s people (it being quite dark) who had come to take the old man’s horse, I would make the soldiers seize them, and retain them as hostages for Isaaco. They went and told this to the two chief men in the village, but they would not permit it. They were able, they said, to defend their own rights, and would not allow the horse to be taken; so after an immense hubbub and wrangling, the business at last came to blows, and the Faranba’s people were fairly kicked out of the village.

  I was now a little puzzled how to act; Isaaco’s wife and child sat crying with us under the tree, his Negroes were very much dejected, and seemed to consider the matter as quite hopeless. We could have gone in the night and burnt the town. By this we should have killed a great many innocent people, and most probably should not have recovered our guide. I therefore thought it most advisable (having consulted with Mr Anderson and Lieutenant Martyn) to wait
till morning; and then, if they persisted in detaining our guide, to attack them in open day; a measure which would be more decisive, and more likely to be attended with success, than any night skirmishes. We accordingly placed double sentries during the night, and made every man sleep with his loaded musket at hand. We likewise sent two people back to Jallacotta, to inform the Dooty of the treatment we had received from Faranba, though at one of the towns belonging to the king of Woolli.

  May 21st – Early in the morning our guide was liberated, and sent back to us; and about ten o’clock a number of Faranba’s people came and told me that Faranba did not wish to quarrel with me, but could not think of allowing a coffle to pass without paying the customary tribute; but as I had refused to do that the evening before, if I would now carry over to Bady such articles as I meant to give him, everything would be amicably settled. I told them that, after the treatment my guide had experienced, they could not expect that I would go to Bady alone; that if I went I would take twenty or thirty of my people with me. This seemed not so agreeable; and it was at last determined that the horse, etc, should be brought half way between the two villages, and delivered on receipt of the goods. I accordingly paid at different times goods to the amount of one hundred and six bars, being not quite one-third of what a coffle of Negroes would have paid. Faranba’s people still kept our guide’s gun and sword; alleging that they were sent away in the night to Bisra, a town in the neighbourhood, but would be sent after us as soon as the person returned who had gone in quest of them. We accordingly departed from Tambico about three o’clock, and halted for the night at Jeningalla near Bufra, or Kabatenda, where I formerly slept; my former landlord brought me a large calabash of milk.

  May 22nd – Halted at Jeningalla to purchase corn for our asses. Went and saw some iron-furnaces; they are smaller at the top than those of Manding.

  The distance being very great between this place and the next water, we resolved to travel it by moonlight, and accordingly we left Jeningalla.

  May 23rd – At two o’clock in the morning, and at eight o’clock reached Nealo Koba. At the same place where I formerly crossed, the river is not flowing, but stands in pools, some of which are deep and swarming with fish. Oysters large, but of a greenish colour; did not eat any of them. About two o’clock resumed our journey, and at sunset reached a small Foula village; all very much fatigued, having travelled twenty-eight miles.

  May 24th – Halted at Mansafara, which is only four miles east of the Foula village. This consists of three towns, quite contiguous to each other; and near them is a large pool of water. From this town to the village of Nittakorra on the north bank of the Gambia is only eight miles due south. Bought corn for the asses in crossing the Samakara woods, and a bullock for the people. Much lightning to the southeast, and thunder. Got all the bundles covered with grass, etc During the night the wolves killed one of our best asses within twenty yards of the place where Mr Anderson and I slept.

  May 25th – Left Mansafara, and entered the Tenda or Samakara wilderness. About four miles to the east passed the ruins of Koba, where I formerly slept.* The town was destroyed by the Bondou people about two years ago, and the Bentang tree burnt down. At ten passed a stream like the Neaulico, running to the Gambia; and shortly after came in sight of the first range of hills, running from south-south-west to north-north-east; we came near them; and at half-past eleven halted at Sooteetabba, a watering-place within a mile of the hills.

  Departing from Sooteetabba as soon as the heat of the day was over, we crossed the first range of hills. Mr Anderson and I ascended the top of one of the hills, which, from the amazing fine prospect all round, I have named Panorama Hill; it has a sugar-loaf looking top, with a number of wolf-holes in it. The route across the hill, though very difficult for the asses, was extremely beautiful. In the evening we descended into a romantic valley, where we found plenty of water, being one of the remote branches of Nealo Koba. There was plenty of fish in the pools; but they were too deep to catch them with the hands. Close to the stream are the ruins of the village of Doofroo, destroyed by the Dentila people some time ago. This is considered as an excellent place for shooting elephants; we saw the fresh dung and feet marks of many of them near the stream. Watched for an eclipse of Jupiter’s first satellite, but the planet became clouded.

  May 26th – At daybreak ascended from the plain of Doofroo, and travelled over a rugged country, till ten o’clock, when we met a coffle (at a watering-place called Sootinimma) bound for Gambia to redeem a person who had been caught for a debt, and was to be sold for a slave if not ransomed in a few months. There being no water here, we did not halt; but continued our march, two of the soldiers being unable to keep up. The main body of the coffle still kept going on, and at half-past twelve reached Bee Creek; from whence we sent back an ass and two Negroes to bring up the two fatigued soldiers.

  We had no sooner unloaded the asses at the creek than some of Isaaco’s people, being in search of honey, unfortunately disturbed a large swarm of bees near where the coffle had halted. The bees came out in immense numbers, and attacked men and beasts at the same time. Luckily most of the asses were loose, and galloped up the valley; but the horses and people were very much stung, and obliged to scamper in all directions. The fire which had been kindled for cooking being deserted, spread, and set fire to the bamboos; and our baggage had like to have been burnt. In fact, for half an hour the bees seemed to have completely put an end to our journey.

  In the evening, when the bees became less troublesome, and we could venture to collect our cattle, we found that many of them were very much stung and swelled about the head. Three asses were missing; one died in the evening, and one next morning, and we were forced to leave one at Sibikillin: in all six; besides which, our guide lost his horse, and many of the people were very much stung about the face and hands.

  May 27th – Early in the morning we set forwards, and after travelling four miles arrived at Sibikillin. Here the water which supplies the town is collected in a deep rocky hollow. There are plenty of fish in the pool, but the natives will not eat any of them, nor allow them to be taken, imagining that the water would immediately dry up. Cautioned the soldiers against catching any of them. At night one of the townspeople found our guide’s horse in the woods, and brought it to the town. Gave him fifteen bars of amber, and a barraloolo, etc

  May 28th – At daybreak set forwards, and about three miles east of Sibikillin descended into a valley, where I saw the first Shea trees, some of them loaded with fruit, but not ripe. About eleven o’clock arrived at Badoo, a small town consisting of about three hundred huts. A little north of this is another town, called likewise Badoo; but they distinguish them by the names of Sansanding and Sansanba.

  May 29th – In the forenoon had an opportunity of sending two letters home to England, via Gambia.

  [These two letters, to his wife and to Sir Joseph Banks, give a hasty note of his situation. They are very optimistic and state that he expects to be on the Niger on 27th June.]

  In the evening left Badoo, and went to Tambacunda, about four miles east of Badoo. The river Gambia is only four miles distant, south of Badoo. Mr Anderson and Mr Scott went up a hill near the town, and had a fine view of it. The course is from the south-east, till it reaches the hills near Badoo; it then turns towards the south. It is called Badeema, or the river which is always a river, i.e. it never dries. The distance between Badoo and Laby in Foota Jalla is five days’ travel.

  Purchased two asses.

  May 30th – Left Tambacunda, and entered the woods. Travelled very expeditiously till eleven o’clock, when we reached a watering-place called Fatifing, where we found some green dirty water, so bad that nothing but necessity would have made us drink it. Halted here till half-past two o’clock, when we again set forward and reached Tabba Gee just at dark: found no water. During the afternoon the country to the south hilly and beautiful. A little before we reached the halting-place some drops of rain fell.

  May 31st
– Left Tabba Gee at daybreak, and a few miles to the east passed a round lump of quartz, called by the natives Ta Kooro, or the traveller’s stone; all travellers lift up this stone and turn it round. The stone is worn quite smooth, and the iron rock on which it rests is worn hollow by this constant motion. Halted during the heat of the day at Mambari, where there is a small village built this season; the former one having been destroyed by war many years ago. Passed in the course of the forenoon two streams running towards Gambia.

  Muianta, a hill resembling a castle, bearing by compass south-by-east, is distant sixteen miles; Sambankalla bearing south the hills of Foota Jalla bearing by compass south-west by west-by-south-west and south-west-by south. The town of Laby is immediately beyond those hills, which are three days’ travel from this place. The river Gambia comes down the opening south-south-west between Muianta and the hills of Foota Jalla. The latter have nearly the appearance of Madeira when seen from the sea, but the hills are not so sharp-pointed as those of Madeira.

  In the afternoon again set forwards, and four miles to the east passed the dry bed of a torrent course towards Gambia; road rocky; plenty of white quartz in detached lumps and small pieces. Travelled till quite dark, when we were forced to halt for the night at a place where there was no water; and of course we all slept supperless.