The Eye
Page 22
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Collaborators like actor Raoul Coutard suspected that Godard’s fascination with destroying cars—even his own blue Alfa-Romeo—was because he hated “Sunday drivers.”
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Among other practical tips in the legendary costume designer’s 1967 book, Head wrote, “Before you are interviewed for the job you want, try on the complete outfit you intend to wear.”
1897–1981
EDITH HEAD
Bette Davis’ off-the-shoulder, ruffled confection in All About Eve, Barbara Stanwyck’s pillbox hat with a frothy veil in Double Indemnity, Gloria Swanson’s allover leopard print in Sunset Boulevard, Tippi Hedren’s monochromatic, fresh green ensemble in The Birds—Edith Head defined the sartorial identity of Paramount Studios for decades, until she decamped to Universal Pictures in the late ’60s. Today, the costume designer is known for her idiosyncratic look as much as for the scores of wardrobes she assembled for ultra-famous leading ladies like Rita Hayworth, Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich and Audrey Hepburn. In dark round glasses, distinctive bangs and suit, Head was barely five feet tall. But her oeuvre speaks for itself: 1,000 films, 35 Oscar nominations and eight wins, including for All About Eve, Roman Holiday and Sabrina. ¶ The Berkeley-educated Head first applied to Paramount as a sketch artist (previously, she was a teacher), using a portfolio she swiped from another student. It was a prime example of her sense of ambition. Head became the chief designer for Paramount in the late ’30s, and it was there that she cultivated her own approach to costuming. In contrast to contemporaries of the era, who were often marked by a flamboyant point of view and a penchant for over-the-top, spangled and sparkling gowns, Head brought a measured dose of thoughtfulness to her designs. Yes, there was plenty of fun, fantasy and excess (like the sinuous sarongs she delivered for The Jungle Princess or the slick, dreamy satins for Hitchcock’s muse, Grace Kelly), but she also excelled at a more utilitarian-minded chic. Think, for example, of the refreshingly simple short-sleeved white button-down, belted tan pleated skirt and neck scarf Hepburn donned for Roman Holiday. In 1967, Head published How to Dress for Success, a guide filled with plenty of bons mots taken from a lifetime of knowing what to wear, when. Though certainly now outdated, Head’s pragmatism is at full force. Her advice? “Looking like a super-efficient executive secretary may help you get the job, but it won’t help you punctuate the letters.” *
1898–1979
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM
Overlooking the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of Venice is the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. The converted 18th-century palazzo is what Guggenheim, a millionaire American expat and longtime art patron, called home. The heiress was the daughter of Benjamin Guggenheim (who died on the Titanic in 1912) and the niece of Solomon R. Guggenheim (for whom the New York museum is named). She broke free of a moneyed, well-heeled childhood when she came into her inheritance in the 1920s, diving into the bohemian life and moving to Europe, where she was soon palling around with a generation of famous artists. Her collection includes some of the most influential names of the 20th century, including Max Ernst (coincidentally, an ex-husband), Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Jackson Pollock and Salvador Dalí. At the beginning of World War II, she returned to New York and founded the gallery Art of This Century, showing a new school of American painting from Pollock, Clyfford Still, Mark Rothko and Robert Motherwell. She had a succession of lovers and husbands, famous and not, and became friends with Marcel Duchamp and the sculptors Brancusi and Giacometti. Her memoir Confessions of anArt Addict, published in 1960, shares plenty of details from her long, gossip-worthy life.*
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With no formal education in art history, Guggenheim once asked the Louvre’s assistance in protecting her small collection during World War II. The museum declined, saying nothing was worth saving. Today, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice is one the world’s finest modern art museums.
reading list
1. Photographer André Villers captures an esteemed artist at his most intimate in Picasso.
2. Things I Have Learned In My Life So Far is an eclectic mix of maxims from adman Stefan Sagmeister.
3. Art Is The Highest Form Of Hope inspires with insightful quotes from artists around the world.
4. Step inside the ever-curious mind of Andy Spade with Likes, a curated compilation of the visionary’s Instagram posts.
5. Wayne McGregor’s Mind and Movement, designed by Magpie Studio, is a lesson plan for dynamic motion in creative spaces.
6. In Betak: Fashion Show Revolution, go behind the scenes with one of the industry’s most innovative show producers.
7. A Dictionary of Color Combinations introduces 348 different combinations from Japanese artist Sanzo Wada.
8. Akademie X curates teachings from 36 notable artists and critics, including Marina Abramovic and Miranda July.
9. In Wolfgang Tillmans, Chris Dercon puts a spotlight on the artist and photographer’s avant-garde work.
10. Through a Different Lens exposes the virtuosic vision of a young Kubrick, showcasing photographs of his native New York City shot for Look magazine.
11. Freetown Sound, Dev Hynes’ third album under his Blood Orange moniker, explores topics from race to masculinity.
12. Through stories and photographs, Lee Radziwill shares her highly publicized and cultured life in Lee.
INVENTORY
DESK TOOLS
1. Schoolhouse Electric & Supply Co. / Flip Clock:
Crafted by one of the world’s original flip clock manufacturers and hand-assembled in Portland, Oregon, this analog throwback is a helpful reminder to put your phone down.
2. Hay / Calendar:
What’s better than the ritual of time itself? From holidays to milestones, enjoy each month by holding it in
your hands with Hay’s bold new calendar, which comes with a metal clip for hanging.
3. Frama / Fundament Candleholders:
Now, here’s a design statement. The Fundament series from Copenhagen’s Frama includes three different candle-holders, each a classic study in geometry, proportion and composition using high-quality brass.
4. Ouur / Pencil Case:
The lightweight functionality of Ouur’s pencil case offers real-time inspiration with plenty of organization.
5. Hay / Starfish Desk Organizer:
Hay’s Starfish desk organizer is practically made for that messy creative space or professional corner. It holds business cards, coins, keys—just about anything you’ll need at arm’s reach.
6. Craft Design Technology / Tape Dispenser:
Made from Japanese beechwood, this well-crafted tape dispenser perfectly combines strength and flexibility.
7. Hesselgrens / Color Atlas:
These are certainly heady times. Understand where we’re going by exploring where we’ve been with this vintage atlas from Hesselgrens. Remember, though: You are here.
8. Hay / Kenzan:
Gardens and meadows exist in nature, naturally. Use Hay’s Kenzan to arrange your flowers indoors and keep your greenery from running wild. There’s plenty of time to enjoy the real thing during your next long walk.
9. A Very Merry Every Day to You / Daily Calendar:
Designed for maximum customizability for life’s small moments, this hugely popular Japanese planner evolves every year based on customer input. Grab your tomorrow today and get inspired one day at a time.
10. Ouur / Tape Dispenser:
Who says mood boards should only exist on a screen? From small tears to big ideas, every creative should have at least one quality tape dispenser.
11. Another Country / Pen Holder:
Made from solid maple and brass, this pen holder is part of a set—along with a note holder and paper tray—that includes all the tools you need for a productive day.
12. Craft Design Te
chnology / CDT Scissors:
Japanese stationery company Craft Design Technology gives new life to scissors with a bold universal design. Right and left hands welcome.
1. Belamar / Portuguese Sardines:
Enjoy this Mediterranean classic anytime, anywhere. Portuguese sardines in soya oil from Belamar are a unique yet perfect addition to any dinner party or early evening craving.
2. La Gondola / Sardine Pate:
Founded in the 1930s, La Gondola is one of the oldest fish canneries in Portugal. Enjoy this Mediterranean tradition with friends and taste the history after a long day on the beach.
3. Villa Reale / Orange and Lemon Marmalade:
Made with fragrant Sicilian oranges and lemons, Villa Reale’s marmalade adds the perfect bright burst of flavor to any crunchy crostini or tart filling. Close your eyes and imagine the taste of Sicily in every jar.
4. Tartuflanghe / Bouquet Burro con Tartufo:
Ideal for seasoning pasta, risotto, meat, eggs and potatoes, this decadent dressing option from Tartuflanghe embelishes all your warm dishes with the delicate aroma of truffles.
5. Alessi / Espresso Maker:
Coffee can fuel the mind and run the mouth, that’s for sure. Start your day with an espresso from Alessi and top it off as the sun is setting after a long day of inspiring thoughts and one-of-a-kind experiences.
6. A.C. Perch’s Tehandel / Tea:
History doesn’t lie—A.C. Perch is simply the oldest small tea shop in Europe. Try what the Danish producer has to offer, starting with its signature leaf.
STATIONERY
1. Craft Design Technology / Jabara Accordion Letter Set:
Made by 110-year-old Haibara Paper Company for Japan’s Craft Design Technology, the Jabara Accordion Letter Set is perfect for on-the-go correspondence, long love letters or quick notes whenever the inspiration strikes.
2. Original Crown Mill / Envelopes:
Made in Belgium, Original Crown Mill stationery offers pure cotton or classic tablets and envelopes for any occasion. The quality, elegance and detail won’t go unnoticed.
3. MT / Washi Tape:
Colorful and simple, the original Japanese washi tape from MT offers a personal touch to just about anything that needs fastening. From borders and accents to scrapbooks and art projects, it’s a modern classic.
4 & 5. Hay / Pen:
Never forget those brilliant ideas again. The Hay pen combines funtionality with a modern aesthetic, offering a sleek, uncomplicated tool for daily use, wherever the thoughts might lead.
6. Craft Design Technology / Notepad:
Every great idea starts with a quality notepad. Designed by Japan’s Craft Design Technology, this A5 grid notepad is a perfect travel companion, from office to home.
7. Craft Design Technology / Squared Notebook:
Keep the inspiration flowing with Craft Design Technology’s Squared Notebook. Allow your mind to wander and let this simple tool capture the rest in style.
THAT’S A WRAP
1. Illum / Shot Glasses:
Toast to any occasion with this Danish classic from Illum. Inspiration and great ideas have been known to start in the company of good friends.
2. Omnipollo / Yellow Belly Stout:
This fantastic libation, a collaboration between Omniollo and Buxton Brewery, is brewed to celebrate all things new, open-minded and progressive. Enjoy with a few new friends and let the conversation wander.
3. Hay / Bottle Opener:
With an elegant design and smooth touch, this bottle opener from Hay courtesy of designer Shane Schneck proves as useful as it is pleasurable.
4. Areawear / Liquid Body Flask:
Designed by The Principals, the Liquid Body Flask from Areawear is a fun pocket flask for any occasion. Using hydroforming technology, surgical- grade stainless steel is molded into a unique shape for each use.
5. Illum / Trophy Jigger:
Say hello to this classic conversation starter. Perfect for mixing that congratulatory drink, this brass-plated bar jigger comes with three shot measurements.
6. Dodd’s Gin / Small Batch Gin:
Dodd’s Gin is simply craft distilling done best, not to mention the soft and smooth choice for winding down your day. This small batch offering from The London Distillery Company is made on the site of a former Victorian dairy in Battersea, South London. Cheers to good times.
CREDITS
P. 16–25
Thom Browne
Words: David Michon
Photography: Zoltan Tombor
P. 26–33
Vanessa Traina
Words: Shonquis Moreno
Photography: Zoltan Tombor
Sidebar: Natalya Frederick (p. 29)
P. 34–41
Stefano Pilati
Words: Molly Mandell
Photography: Dennis Weber
P. 42–45
Clare Waight Keller
Words: David Plaisant
Photography: Virginie Katheeb at Cadence Image (p. 42), Ward Ivan Rafik at Cadence Image (p. 43)
P. 46–53
Dries Van Noten
Words: Tom Morris
Photography: Dennis Weber
P. 54–59
Yohji Yamamoto
Words: Sarah Rowland
Photography: Nicolas Guérin
Edit: Natalya Frederick
P. 60–65
Bouchra Jarrar
Words: Sarah Moroz
Photography: Nicolas Guérin
P. 66–73
Erdem Moralioglu
Words: Frankie Mathieson
Photography: Marsy Hild Thorsdottir
Sidebar: Natalya Frederick (p. 72)
P. 74–79
Linda Rodin
Words: Frankie Mathieson
Photography: Zoltan Tombor
P. 80–89
Joe & Charlie Casely-Hayford
Words: Sarah Rowland
Photography: Marsy Hild Thorsdottir
P. 90–95
Kris Van Assche
Words: Frankie Mathieson
Photography: Dennis Weber
Sidebar: Natalya Frederick (p. 92)
P. 96–101
Carol Lim &
Humberto Leon
Words: Frankie Mathieson
Photography: Nicolas Guérin
Hair and Makeup: Sonia Duchaussoy
P. 102–109
Margaret Howell
Words: David Plaisant
Photography: Daniel Stjerne
P. 110–115
Telfar Clemens
Words: Laura Rysman
Photography: Jacopo Moschin
Sidebar: Natalya Frederick (p. 114)
P. 116–121
Garance Doré
Words: Sarah Rowland
Photography: Claire Cottrell
Hair and Makeup: Tsipporah Liebman using MAC Cosmetics
P. 122–125
Jonathan Anderson
Words: Natalie Rigg
Photography: Marsy Hild Thorsdottir
Sidebar: Natalya Frederick (p. 125)
P. 126–131
Lucas Ossendrijver
Words: Laura Rysman
Photography: Pablo Arroyo (p. 126, 129, 130), James Bort/Courtesy of LANVIN (p. 127)
Styling: Jérôme André (p. 126, 129, 130)
P. 132–153
Fashion Archive
Words: Natalie Rigg
Photography: Edward Miller/Keystone/Getty Images (p. 134), Loomis Dean/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images (p. 135), Bettmann/Getty Images (p. 136), Hulton Archive/Getty Images (p. 138, left), Eric Robert/Sygma/Sygma via Getty Images (p. 138, righ
t), Lipnitzki/Roger Viollet/Getty Images (p. 139, left), Daily Mirror/Mirrorpix/Mirrorpix via Getty Images (p. 139, right), François Pages/Paris Match via Getty Images (p. 140, left), Robert Doisneau/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images (p. 140, right), François Pages/Paris Match via Getty Images (p. 142), Fred W. McDarrah/Getty Images (p. 144, left), Etienne George/Sygma via Getty Images (p. 144, right), Catherine McGann/Getty Images (p. 145, right), Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images (p. 146), Jack Garofalo/Paris Match via Getty Images (p. 147), François Pages/Paris Match via Getty Images (p. 148), Walter Carone/Paris Match via Getty Images (p. 150), Lipnitzki/Roger Viollet/Getty Images (p. 151), François Pages/Paris Match via Getty Images (p. 152)
P. 154–155
Reading List
Words: James Burke
P. 158–165
Stefano Tonchi
Words: Frankie Mathieson
Photography: Billy Kidd
P. 166–169
Grace Coddington
Words: Frankie Mathieson
Photography: Fabien Baron (p. 167), Courtesy of Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue/Phaidon (p. 168)
P. 170–177
Franck Durand
Words: Sarah Moroz
Photography: Lasse Fløde
Sidebar: Natalya Frederick (p. 175)
P. 178–183
Veronica Ditting
Words: Molly Mandell