Alida; or, Miscellaneous Sketches of Incidents During the Late American War.

by Frank V. Webster

  [Transcriber's Note:

  Chapters XXIV-XXVII are taken from _Travels in North America_ (see Sources section).

  Ellipses (....) represent longer omissions, generally two or more full sentences; shorter omissions are retained. In particular, _Alida_ omits all passages having to do with either American Indians or religious communities. Aside from omitted material, most quotations are verbatim except for changes of person (from "I" or "we" to "Alida" or "the group").

  The dramatic date of these chapters is summer 1815, or ten years before Karl Bernhard's visit. Note in particular the references to the Erie Canal and to the Superintendent of West Point.]

  CHAPTER XXIV.

  There she might read in nature's page the wonders of Creation, almighty power, infinite wisdom and unbounded might. There truths that entertain, reward the searching mind, and onward lead inquiring thought. The curious wonders still unfold, and rise upon the view. The mind rejoicing, comments as she reads, and raises still to the Almighty Power increasing homage.

  [_NY Weekly_: The School of Nature (introductory poem: Theodosia):

  "------------ Nature spreads An open volume; where, in ev'ry page, We read the wonders of Almighty Pow'r, Infinite Wisdom, and unbounded Love. Here sweet instruction, entertaining truths, Reward the searching mind, and onward lead Enquiring Thought: new beauties still unfold, And op'ning wonders rise upon the view. The Mind, rejoicing, comments as she reads; While through th' inspiring page Conviction glows, And warms to praise her animated pow'rs."]

  The summer was past its meridian, and had shed abroad its warmestinfluences, and enriched the various scenes of nature with theluxuriance and beauty of its foliage. In the meantime, Alida departedagain from her father's house for the city, to join a party composed ofgentlemen and matrons, Albert her brother, with several young ladies,who all left the port of New-York for the Falls of Niagara. Her pensivemind became cheered and animated as the gallant steamer left the shoresof the city and moved majestically over the smooth face of the Hudson.The morning was extremely beautiful, and she surveyed with a new andalleviating pleasure, the various and extensive prospect of thesurrounding country. The scenery on the river at this season surpassedall description, and exhibited a landscape worthy to relate in history.The borders of the river beautifully interspersed with cottages,villages, and large flourishing towns, elegant country-seats, withgrounds tastefully laid out, which afforded to the eye of the travellera novel and enchanting appearance. They arrived about sunset at the cityof Albany, and took lodgings at Cruttenden's boarding-house, on aneminence near the Capitol or State-house.

  [_Travels_ (middle of chapter V):

  At the village of Greenbush, near Albany, we crossed the Hudson or North river in a horse-boat, and upon our arrival in the city took lodgings at Cruttenden's boarding-house, on an eminence near the capitol or state-house.]

  This city, which is situated on the right bank of the Hudson, and standswestward upon a rising ground, received its name, when in possession ofthe English, in honour of James II., who was the duke of York andAlbany. On the following morning they took a walk through the city. Inconsequence of its vicinity to the Ballston, Saratoga, and New LebanonSprings, in the fashionable season the hotel was so full of strangersthat no more could be accommodated.

  [_Travels_:

  Albany contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is situated upon the right bank of the Hudson, and extends westward upon an eminence. It was built by the Dutch in 1614, under the name of Fort Orange, and received its present name after it came into the possession of the English, in honour of the afterwards unfortunate King James II. who was then duke of York and Albany. Some of the Dutch houses are still standing, and several of the streets retain their original names.

  At the tavern we met with a Mr. Jackson, from New York, who had arrived at the same time, and who was accompanied by his sister and his son, Columbus, a sensible lad about ten years of age. Mr. J. is a teacher. In consequence of the vicinity to the Ballston, Saratoga, and New Lebanon springs, and the fashionable season, the hotel was so full of strangers, that I was obliged to sleep with Mr. Tromp, in a small chamber....]

  Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expectsto reap the most happy results from the Erie canal, which commenceshere, and runs a distance of three hundred and sixty-two miles to LakeErie. The company took a walk to the new basin, into which the canalempties. It is separated from the Hudson by a dam which runs parallelwith the river.

  [_Travels_:

  Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expects to reap the most happy results from the Erie Canal, which has been lately established, and which commences here, and runs a distance of three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie.... We ... took a walk to the new basin, into which the canal empties. It is separated from the Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the river.... ...]

  [[The Erie Canal was begun in 1817 and completed in 1825.]]

  On the morning of the 14th of August they took passage on board of theAlbany, one of the canal packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This canal, whichis three hundred and sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three locksbetween the Hudson river and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred andeighty-eight feet above the level of the former river. The packet-boattook them from thence to Schenectady. It was covered, and contained aspacious cabin. On account of the great number of the locks, theprogress of their journey was but slow. The boat was drawn by threehorses, that walked upon a narrow path leading along the canal, andbeneath the numerous bridges which are thrown over it.

  [_Travels_ (chapter VI begins):

  On the morning of the 14th of August, we took passage on board the Albany, one of the canal packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This canal.... is three hundred and sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three locks, between the Hudson and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred and eighty-eight feet above the level of the former river.... The packet-boat which took us to Schenectady, was seventy feet long, fourteen feet wide, and drew two feet water. It was covered, and contained a spacious cabin, with a kitchen, and was very neatly arranged. On account of the great number of locks, the progress of our journey was but slow: our packet-boat went only at the rate of three miles an hour, being detained at each lock, on an average, four minutes. The locks are fourteen feet wide above the surface, and have a fall from seven to twelve feet. The packet-boat was drawn by three horses, which walked upon a narrow tow-path leading along the canal, and beneath the numerous bridges which are thrown over it....]

  The distance from Albany to Schenectady by land is only fifteen miles,and persons are enabled to travel it in a very short time in a stagecoach, but as they were anxious to see the canal, they preferred goingby water twenty-eight miles.

  [_Travels_:

  The distance from Albany to Schenectady, by land, is only fifteen miles, and persons are enabled to travel it in a very short time in the stagecoach; but as we were anxious to see the canal, and get leisure to complete our journals, we preferred going by water, twenty-eight miles.]

  The city of Troy, five miles and a half above Albany, is pleasantlysituated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of several tolerablyhigh mountains, one of which is called Mount Ida. There is a branchcanal, which has two locks, and establishes a communication with Troy.They soon arrived at a place where there were no less than nine locks,with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the right ofthis, is another canal, which unites with the Hudson and the canal fromLake Champlain.

  [_Travels_:

  At Troy, five miles and a half from Albany, is the government arsenal, which appears to be a large establishment. As far as this place, the canal runs nearly parallel with the Hudson. Troy, which is very pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of several tolerably high mountains, one of which is
called Mount Ida, appears, if we may be permitted to judge from the large store-houses and the good appearance of the dwellings, to be a wealthy place. Here is a branch canal which has two locks, and establishes a communication with Troy. Shortly after, we arrived at a place where there are no less than nine locks, with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the right of this, is another canal, which unites with the Hudson and the canal from Lake Champlain.]

  At this place they left the Hudson, and directed their course along theMohawk river. During their ride, they observed a covered wooden bridge,which extends over the latter river, a short distance from its mouth,and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by fifteen woodenpiers. There was a fine view of the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawkriver, seventy-eight feet in height, and about four hundred feet wide.In the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of theMohawk, they are said to be extremely magnificent. During this season ofdry weather, they presented a handsome appearance, though they were verysmall, the river being almost completely dried up.

  [_Travels_:

  At this place we left the Hudson and directed our course along the Mohawk river. During our ride we observed a covered wooden bridge, which extends over the latter river, a short distance from its mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by fifteen wooden piers. Here we saw the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk river, seventy-eight feet in height and about four hundred feet wide. In the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of the Mohawk, they are said to be extremely magnificent; during the present dry weather, they presented a very handsome appearance, though they were very small. The river was almost completely dried up....]

  Finding great difficulty in continuing the canal on the right bank ofthe Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to the opposite side ofthe river by means of an aqueduct bridge one thousand one hundred andeighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is supported by twenty-sixstone columns, on which account they have placed a chevaux-de-frieze tokeep off the ice in the river. The canal is cut through the rocks almostthe whole distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, andpresents a very handsome appearance.

  [_Travels_:

  Finding great difficulty in continuing the canal on the right bank of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to the opposite side by means of an aqueduct-bridge, one thousand one hundred and eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is of wood, and is supported by twenty-six stone columns, on account of which, they have placed a _chevaux-de-frise_, to keep off the ice in the river about one hundred yards off.... The canal is cut through the rocks, almost the whole distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, and presents a very handsome appearance.]

  Twelve miles further on, it returns again to the right bank of theriver, by a similar aqueduct, supported by sixteen piers. Four milesfarther on is Schenectady, where they arrived after sunset. Between thistown and Albany they passed no less than twenty-seven locks. At thisplace they left the packet-boat, and found excellent lodgings at Given'shotel, which, after the great heat they had endured during the day, wasexceedingly agreeable. Early on the next morning they walked through thetown, and visited Union College, which consists of two large buildingssituated at a short distance from the town, upon a little eminence. Fromthis building there is a beautiful view of the town and of the Mohawkvalley. They left Schenectady early in the morning on board thepacket-boat, which had engaged to take them to Utica, eighty milesdistant, by an early hour the next day. The canal again ran along thewell cultivated valley of the Mohawk, and the prospect of the country,on account of the foliage of the trees upon the heights, was beautiful.

  [_Travels_:

  Twelve miles farther on, it returns again to the right bank of the Mohawk by a similar aqueduct, seven hundred and forty-eight feet in length and supported by sixteen piers. Above this aqueduct, which is also protected by a _chevaux-de-frise_, there is a common wooden bridge thrown over the river, for wagons. Four miles farther on is Schenectady, where we arrived after sunset. Between this town and Albany, we passed no less than twenty-seven locks.... At this place we left the packet-boat, in order to proceed to Utica next morning in another boat, and found excellent lodgings at Given's hotel, which, after the great heat we had endured during the day, was exceedingly agreeable. Its inhabitants are, in part, descendants of the Lower Saxons, and some of them whom I saw at the tavern conversed with me in bad Dutch. Early on the next morning we walked through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of two large buildings situated a short distance from the town upon a little eminence. It was the time of vacation, and consequently it was perfectly silent. From its decaying appearance, I should judge the college was not in a very prosperous condition. From this building you have a beautiful view of the town, and of the Mohawk valley, which appears here to be well settled. In the town we observed a peculiar windmill, with a horizontal wheel, whose sails, about twenty in number, stand perpendicularly.

  We left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat Samuel Young, which had engaged to take us to Utica, eighty miles distant, by an early hour the next day. It was a large boat, and, as the passengers are obliged to spend the night on board, is provided with separate apartments for the ladies. The canal again ran along the well-cultivated valley of the Mohawk, and the country, on account of the foliage of the trees upon the heights was beautiful.]

  The village of Amsterdam consists of a few neat houses. The canal iscarried over two rivers, called Schoharie, Canajoharie, from which itreceives the most of its water. At this place the horses were conveyedto the opposite side of the two rivers by means of a ferry-boat. At thefirst ferry is a small village, called Fort Hunter, where at the time ofthe revolution there had been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the samename. Towards evening they passed through a valley, which is formed bytwo rocky mountains. There are twenty locks between Schenectady andUtica. The day was intolerably warm, and the company very much oppressedby the heat, but in the evening fortunately there was a thunder-shower,which cooled the air. They passed over an aqueduct bridge during thenight, which stands over a solace called Little Falls.

  [_Travels_:

  The village of Amsterdam consists of a few neat houses; and opposite, on the right bank of the Mohawk, is Rotterdam. On our way we passed several small aqueducts, the longest of which rest only upon three piers, and extend over small brooks, which, as well as the small rivulets, are distinguished by the Indian appellation of "creek." The canal is carried over two rivers, called Schoharie and Canajoharie creeks, from which it receives the most of its water. At this place the horses are conveyed to the opposite side of the two rivers by means of ferryboats. At the first ferry is a small village, called Fort Hunter, where, before the revolution, there had been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening we passed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains, one of which is called Anthony's Nose. The houses we saw on our route, had generally a handsome appearance; to-day and yesterday I observed also some saw-mills. There are twenty-six locks between Schenectady and Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and our company was very numerous. I confined myself to writing, the whole day, as much as possible; but, in consequence of the heat, I could not avoid sleeping. In the evening we fortunately had a thunder-storm, which cooled the air.... During the night we passed an aqueduct bridge, which stands over a solace, called Little Falls.]

  Towards morning they passed through a well-cultivated region calledGerman Flats, which was settled by some Germans during the time of QueenAnne. At about ten o'clock they arrived at Utica, which is intersectedby the canal, and is a large, flourishing town. In fact it is only herethat a person begins to admire the great improvements in cultivation,and gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man and of his enterprisinggenius. Utica, on the right bank of the Mohawk, has two banks and fourchurches. It has also several tavern
s, the largest of which calledShepherd's hotel, they found excellent accommodations. There werebesides many large and convenient stores, a bookstore, and printingoffice. The number of travellers this summer were unusually great,especially from the southern states.

  [_Travels_:

  Towards morning we passed through a well-cultivated region, with some neat houses, called German flats, and which was settled by some Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At about twelve o'clock at noon we arrived at Utica, nine miles from the place where we passed a lock, which is the last that occurs in the next seventy miles. The land appeared to be marshy, and consisted of sand and pebbles.

  Utica, which is intersected by the canal, is a flourishing town, of about four thousand inhabitants.... In fact, it is only here that a person begins to admire the great improvements in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man, and of his enterprising genius! Utica, on the right bank of the Mohawk, has two banks, four churches, an academy, and large and convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing-office. It has also several ale-houses, and three fine taverns, at the largest of which, called Shepherd's hotel, we found excellent accommodations. In this house there are always more than seventy beds for the accommodation of strangers; and these, on some occasions, are barely sufficient. The number of travellers this summer, is said to have been unusually great, especially from the southern states....]