Climbing The Equator

by Neville Shulman

  I discover that Axel trains horses and works on a farm outside Dusseldorf. I guess he certainly must know something about balance and therefore should be good on the mountain as a climbing companion. He’s also had problems with a previous climbing guide, so we visit the Explorers Club on the corner of Jorge Washington (I tell you no lie) and are luckily introduced to two new guides, Jorge and Enrique. Both are very knowledgeable and they agree to accompany us when finally attempting Chimborazo. Two guides will provide us with more back up in case of any emergencies occurring high on the mountain. Axel has many other trips planned in the meantime, so we all agree to make contact later, to arrange and attempt this final climb together.

  Although I know I should be taking it easier, I feel too excited at the prospect of soon being on the mountains, so I decide to fit in a fast taxi trip to the Cochasqui Archaeological Complex, just north of Quito. This is a wonderful and peaceful area where 15 pyramids are situated, along with a number of dome-shaped burial tombs all dating pre-Inca. The indigenous people take considerable pride in these structures, as they comsider their history to be the oldest in Ecuador and confirm that they were here before all the others. They rightfully claim that they have been totally mistreated within their country, initially by the Incas, then by the Spanish invaders and conquerors and even now by the Ecuadorian authorities. They feel that they are owed justice and they are no longer prepared to wait for it. This understandable demand is the cornerstone cry of many repressed populations throughout the world, who often feel laws and regulations discriminate against them and are unjust, or are not morally acceptable and therefore should not be automatically followed. It’s absolutely essential that everyone’s legitimate rights are recognised by all others and, where there is continuing conflict, it’s resolved by fairness coupled with understanding.

  At the Cochasqui Centre there is a superb herb garden with some species of herbs dating back to pre-Colombian times, and research is being carried out there to investigate their special healing powers. Perhaps they may yet discover one which helps people to be more tolerant and caring to one another and less bloodthirsty; an interesting term that refers back to the times when it was acceptable to drink the blood of your enemies, in order to take in their strengths. A special time to visit Cochasqui is on and around 21 June when they celebrate the festival of the solstice, the IntiRaymi Festival, although you must be prepared to share this spectacular event with many indigenous tribal people who travel in from all over the country, and should be aware that one of the traditions at Inti-Raymi is to throw stones at each other. Only small ones though!

  I don’t need my alarm call and am awake very early, soon waiting impatiently. Luis, however, is punctual to the minute, and we set off very early. Pichincha is a volcanic mountain in the western range. Its history is very much bound up with the history of Quito, and the famous battle of Pichincha between the victorious Sucre and the defeated Spaniards was the deciding one, resulting in Quito being freed, and subsequently Ecuador itself. Pichincha has several peaks and heights to aspire to: Guagua Pichincha, El Padre Encantado, Ladrillos, as well as Rucu Pichincha. Guagua Pichincha as a volcano is not considered very active although it did erupt as recently as 1999. The one before that however was over 300 hundred years earlier in 1660. I think the folks in Quito can perhaps relax and rest easily for another century or so, although you never know!

  I am really looking forward to climbing this mountain as its historical connections to the freeing of Ecuador marks it out in a very special way. All Ecuadorians think of it as their own mountain and for me, it is one mountain that must be accomplished. One of my knees has started playing up, so although it’s not a tough climb I carry out some extensive stretching exercises before I leave the hotel, in an attempt to limber up. Luis tells me the weather is improving so we shouldn’t encounter any problems this time. ‘No problema.’ He is as short on conversation and comment as ever, and prefers to rely mainly on gestures. But we share some chocolate and he seems happy.

  Together we decide to climb the main summit initially, Guagua Pichincha, reaching nearly 4,800 metres. Guagua is usually known as ‘the mountain that boils’ but hopefully today the ‘kettle’ will not be operating. Luis and I set off to drive to the mountain slopes in his jeep, which is looking even more battered than I remember. We initially pass the village of Lloa, before starting to wind slowly up the foothills approaching the mountain. We have loaded the jeep up with plenty of equipment just in case, but it’s unlikely that we will need it today. As Luis indicated the weather seems fine, with a bright sun and very little wind. The road is more a dusty trail and the journey is bone-shattering as the vehicle bumps its way over hardened earth, stone and rocky outcrops, slowly but steadily climbing upwards. Half-way up, I have had enough of this and tell Luis it would be preferable and more of an interesting test if I trek the rest of the way, climbing from this earlier point rather than waiting till we reach the mountain itself. Luis agrees and stops the jeep, parking it to one side so others can easily pass, and we quickly put on day packs to continue.

  My knees are still feeling stiff so I take it easy until I can get a decent rhythm going. We soon reach approximately 3,500 metres and, remembering Marcos’ advice, I start to relax and to feel in tune with the surroundings. The air is so clear that I can see far into the distance, and am able to admire the view of the rolling plains stretching in every direction and the small herds of deer dotted over several hillsides. I see a huge bird circling slowly over to my left, and Luis confirms it’s a condor. There is a group of trekkers ahead and I feel confident enough to catch up and pass them. They are going quite slowly anyway, and are possibly worried about acclimatising. They wave me on and a few take the opportunity to stop and drink some water, indicating in gesture that the height and the heat are getting to them already. I only hope I am not being overconfident and will not pay for it later.

  We start following a winding path, which is stony and tough on the feet, but I probably need the pressure to help get me into better shape for the much higher and more difficult mountains later on. My knees are less sore and I want to feel the hardness of the ground underneath as it strengthens my hamstrings. The páramo grasslands on either side are covered in a tussock grass, which is very springy underfoot and seems to stretch forever. We continue to climb, trekking for about three hours until we finally reach the Ministry Refuge. We make a joint decision not to pause here, and we continue to push on and head for the summit.

  We are soon trekking over volcanic outcrops and the terrain becomes barren and desolate. It’s a long, hard, but manageable slog and all one needs is a good pair of lungs, two strong legs, and totally focused determination. At least I have the determination. There’s a huge slab of rock to our left and I nonchalantly ask Luis whether it’s the route to follow and if we will need to climb it. I know really it’s not necessary, but something gets lost in the translation as he shrugs and seems to indicate it’s up to me. I decide I must take the challenge and burn up a huge amount of energy and effort in struggling my way over it, whilst Luis stands bemusedly watching me and then walks easily around it to join me on the other side. I collapse momentarily and need to drink a whole bottle of water to replenish some of what has poured from me.

  It takes a while longer trekking upwards, but we finally reach the crater of the volcano. I peer inside to watch the misty lines of smoke spiralling upwards, and vanishing mysteriously into the pale sunlight. There are several lava domes inside, strangely shaped and almost looking as if they were recently created. I know that most are from several hundred years ago, although some could have been created in the 1999 eruption. I don’t ask Luis whether I should climb down as he might shrug again and I don’t fancy ‘going on the boil’.

  We walk along the crater rim for about half an hour before reaching an old metal cross that signals that we have achieved the summit of Guagua (baby) Pichincha. The summit height is actually 4,794 metres (15,727 feet). It isn’t a difficult cli
mb overall, apart from feeling a little reaction to the altitude, but is well worth all the effort to arrive at the top. Standing there, able to see so much in all directions but in particular the sprawling city of Quito far below, I feel a sense of contentment on top of this Ecuadorian summit. I wonder how I’ll feel if I manage to reach the summit of Chimborazo, a further hefty 1,700 metres (5,000 feet) higher. That’s for the future, however, now it’s time to enjoy the present. The sun’s very hot and I wish I had brought my straw hat with me, but a baseball cap suffices. We still have time and energy to spend on more climbing and so decide to travel to the other main summit, Ruca (old) Pichincha, also known as Virgen del Cinto. This means that we must trek down towards the Refuge again but this time head north and then trek around to the east, where we are also able to climb to another summit, El Padre Encantado at 4,500 metres (14,764 feet). From there it’s a climb up a rock basin that becomes a continuous stumble over areas of loose scree and rock, which as always I find unpleasant. It’s worth it at the end, however, when we reach the summit of Rucu Pichincha at 4,698 metres (15,413 feet), the peak again marked by another cross. Although not high peaks by Ecuadorian standards, I know that the three summits achieved today are certainly good training for the really big ones. That night I sleep well.

  CHAPTER 8

  ADVENTURERS, EXPLORERS, MOUNTAINEERS

  One of the many benefits of climbing in foreign countries is that it always provides considerable thinking time and opportunities to learn more about where you are, and the people and events that have helped to shape the country’s destiny. When in a tent or a mountain hut I spend my free time reading more about the county’s history, and those who have left their mark on it. Ecuador has always been of very considerable interest to many explorers, travellers and of course mountaineers, as within its borders there is such a vast diversity of extraordinary ecological and geographical features. It’s also a country where much blood has been spilled, as some have sought to conquer and to restrict its traditions, whilst others have only wanted freedom and an open society. Despite the conflicts occurring over many centuries and the bitterness caused throughout its history, Ecuador has always also been a place of joy and fascination to many, partly because of the magnificent fauna and flora to be found in wonderful and extraordinary locales.

  There is little doubt that General Simon Bolivar must be judged as the foremost person who influenced the destiny of Ecuador. His vision and determination created the opportunity to free Ecuador, as well as many other South American countries, from the domination of Spain. Because of his heroic and ultimately successful efforts, Bolivar became known as the Great Liberator. He also was a great opponent of slavery and was responsible for freeing slaves in many places where his soldiers fought for freedom and against tyranny. Although he was of Venezuelan birth, his dreams were for the whole of South America and his greatest desire was to see it unified into one Federation, with all its peoples helping and supporting each other. That wasn’t to be, but it certainly wasn’t for his lack of trying. Bolivar was an intellectual who dared to comprehend ‘the big picture’, using his military and political skills to advance the cause of freedom everywhere and to oppose those dictatorships which ignored the needs of the people.

  In 1815, whilst biding his time in the West Indies, Bolivar produced his famous ‘Jamaica Letter’, in which he reviewed and analysed the prospects for the whole South American sub-continent. Six years later, after several battles along the eastern coast, Bolivar was finally able to overcome all resistance successfully and established the independence of Venezuela. Bolivar then turned his attention to Ecuador and financed two armies with the intention of liberating its capital, Quito. Simon Bolivar was in charge of the army invading from the north and General Antonio José de Sucre led an army from the south, starting out from Guayaquil. The initial attacks by Bolivar weakened the resistance of the Spanish and, buoyed by his success, Sucre fought courageously and tenaciously on the plains of Pichincha, finally capturing Quito from the Spanish. This victory, which took place on 24 May 1822, proved to be the key battle in Ecuador’s fight for freedom and together Bolivar and Sucre were finally able to free it from Spain’s dominance.

  Bolivar had created the Republic of Gran Colombia, comprising Venezuela, Colombia, Panama and Ecuador and he became its President in the hope of creating greater opportunities for all its citizens. His dream of establishing a viable South American Federation seemed about to be realised. In an historic meeting, Bolivar met in Guayaquil with General José de San Martin, the other main creator of South American liberation who had arrived from Peru. San Martin initially wished to negotiate a takeover of Guayaquil, although Bolivar could not agree to this as he had already incorporated the city into his Gran Columbian Republic. San Martin graciously accepted this, recognising the greater importance of solidarity in South American countries. The meeting proved the measure of the qualities of both men, these two great heroes of nineteenth-century South America, in each recognising and respecting the role of the other and agreeing to part in friendship, without animosity. They will always be remembered in history as the two Great Liberators.

  Charles-Marie de la Condamine was a French aristocrat with impeccable credentials in the fields of science and one further special qualification: he was very rich. When the prestigious French Académie des Sciences were looking for someone to lead and partly fund a scientific expedition to Ecuador, La Condamine was an ideal choice. For some time there had been a conflict between two scientific theories concerning the shape of the Earth, one propounded by Isaac Newton, Britain’s eminent mathematician, physicist and astronomer and one by the Astronomer Royal of France, Jacques Cassini. The French Académie decided to resolve the conflict (naturally hoping the French theory would win out) by sending one expedition to the Arctic region (actually Lapland) and another headed by La Condamine to Quito, the capital of Ecuador close to the Equator. Both teams would undertake research and carry out scientific measurements to resolve the issue.

  La Condamine, a mathematician and geodesist, took with him the astronomer Pierre Bouguer, the mathematician Louis Godin, the botanist Joseph de Jussieu and several other French notables. To obtain the King of Spain’s permission and approval for the expedition, it was agreed that two Spanish scholars would participate, Jorge Juan y Santacilia and Antonio de Uloa. The group of scientists, once they had arrived in Ecuador, divided into separate groups and travelled by different routes, in order to make stops along the way to map and measure the coastlines as well as to take other territorial and mountain measurements. The party led by Bouguer eventually arrived in Quito from Guayaquil in May 1736 and La Condamine and his party arrived there from the north coming through the province of Esmeraldas. There is still controversy as which of them arrived first but it doesn’t really matter, as they immediately put their rivalry and personal feelings to one side and agreed to collaborate on their scientific observations and share their findings.

  On his way La Condamine was joined by the noted Ecuadorian mathematician and explorer, Pedro Vicente Maldonaldo y Sotomayor, a Creole by birth, who became part of the expeditionary team and was therefore able to uphold the interests and honour of Ecuador. Maldonaldo introduced la Condamine to the properties of rubber (caoutchouc or jebe) and instantly realising the tremendous potential of this product, he was the first to bring back samples to Europe. He actually fashioned a rubber pouch to house his instruments in order to keep them dry. On his journey along the Esmeraldas River he had also come across an interesting metal, neither gold nor silver, which was locally called platino, which we know as platinum. Maldonaldo also introduced La Condamine, for expedition purposes, to the naked Colorado ‘Indians’ painted in bright red dye, who were happy to treat him as a friend and agreed to escort the party through the jungle. During their arduous journey they had to climb through the Andes before finally reaching the city of Quito.

  Once in Quito, La Condamine met up with Bouguer and the other scientists, and they
immediately began the work for which they had all travelled so far and with such difficulty; calculating the measurements of the Earth. They chose as their initial site the level, semi-desert plain of Yarqui to the north-east of Quito, constructing several brick pyramids as markers and measuring points, in many different locations, as well as taking positions on several mountain peaks in order to send measuring signals to each other. Their work continued over several years, however with considerable problems occurring to interrupt it. Sometimes these were because of conflicts between the interests of the countries represented as well as other countries of the region, and at other times due to difficult and dangerous local conditions, often resulting in the sickness and fatalities of some of the scientists. Their camps were unsanitary in the extreme and their provisions were constantly being invaded by cockroaches, flies, ants and insects of all kinds. Their feet and other extremities were bitten by fleas and worse, and some of the team argued that they should abandon their work and head back to Europe.

  La Condamine wouldn’t, however, be deterred and stuck with it until finally in 1743 all their findings and measurements were complete. Their prime finding was to confirm that Newton’s theory on the shape of the world was correct, rather than Cassini’s, and the expedition to the Arctic and Lapland confirmed this same finding. It was testament to the scientific integrity of La Condamine that he wasn’t swayed by any nationalistic loyalty in arriving at this conclusion. As previously mentioned, La Condamine and his colleagues were also able to determine and record the exact place of Mitad del Mundo (Centre of the World).