Shackleton's Heroes
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CONTENTS
Title Page
Author’s Preface
Foreword by Sir Ranulph Fiennes
Introduction
Chapter 1: ‘I had not anticipated that the work would present any great difficulties’
Chapter 2: ‘But surely, Sir Ernest, this isn’t going to fizzle out into a picnic’
Chapter 3: ‘I am going to write a daily account of my doings to you’
Chapter 4: ‘The other two are snoring peacefully alongside of me’
Chapter 5: ‘On Polar journeys the dogs are almost human’
Chapter 6: ‘I went on board to fetch a plum-duff presented by the cook’
Chapter 7: ‘I think the O.M. has a good solution’
Chapter 8: ‘Captain about 1½ miles ahead’
Chapter 9: ‘Feeling rather seedy. Head hot; eyes ache’
Chapter 10: ‘With the help of 2 good pals we carried it out’
Chapter 11: ‘Hope to reach Bluff Depot tomorrow’
Chapter 12: ‘Or else we shall be sharing the fate of Scott & his party’
Chapter 13: ‘We are about all in’
Chapter 14: ‘We have had the closest of close calls’
Chapter 15: ‘We are all rapidly going down with scurvy’
Chapter 16: ‘Weary, worn, and sad’
Chapter 17: ‘As happy as a Piccadilly masher’
Chapter 18: ‘So the fate of these foolish people we do not know’
Chapter 19: ‘Are Mackintosh and Hayward here?’
Chapter 20: ‘The greatest qualities of endurance, self-sacrifice, and patience’
Postscript by Dr D. L. Harrowfield
Timeline
Sources
Plates
Copyright
AUTHOR’S PREFACE
THERE IS NOTHING quite like sitting at a table in the deathly silent Archives Room of the Scott Polar Research Institute Library in Cambridge, wearing white gloves, with a grimy, seal-blubber-oil-splattered diary, reading words that were written by one of your own heroes; words that were written in Antarctica in 1915–16.
My ‘heroes’ are six men who were in a support party placing food depots for Shackleton’s planned crossing of Antarctica in 1915. I call these six men the ‘Mount Hope Party’ because their most southerly depot was placed at Mount Hope, 360 miles onto the continent from their base at McMurdo Sound.
The rough, handwritten scrawl of their diaries often required a number of readings to ensure the words written were interpreted correctly. Did he write ‘heavy’ or was the word ‘leaving’? Did he simply describe yet another day of hauling a sledge through waist-deep snow as ‘worse than awful’? Did he really write that they ate half a biscuit and drank one cup of weak warm tea, for the entire day? He mentions his toes – does he not realise his toes are frostbitten, and they may need to be amputated? Does he have any idea that the blizzard will continue for another five days? Or that his colleague will die in two days? Such was my life, on and off, for six years as I researched the diaries of the men of the Mount Hope Party for this book.
Over this time I badgered the staff at various institutions for any diary, document, letter or journal related to the Mount Hope Party: the Scott Polar Research Institute in Cambridge, the Canterbury Museum in Christchurch, the James Caird Library at the National Maritime Museum in London, the Royal Geographical Society in London, the Alexander Turnbull Library in Wellington and the Federation University in Victoria (formerly University of Ballarat).
I searched for more details of the six men: Mackintosh, Joyce, Wild, Spencer-Smith, Hayward and Richards. I spent time with Anne Philips, granddaughter of the leader of the party, Aeneas Mackintosh, and she gave me even more background information on him. I tracked down Ernest Joyce’s original diary (in private hands in the USA) and the owner, Betsy Krementz, obligingly sent me a complete copy of it for my work. I visited obscure places like the tiny village of Eversholt, the home of Ernest Wild. I met the late Michael Weaver, archivist at Woodbridge School in Suffolk, who was also entranced with the exploits of a past pupil, A. P. Spencer-Smith. I wrote to hundreds of people named ‘P. Hayward’ before finding Peter Hayward, the grand-nephew of Victor Hayward, who shared with me the history of his family. I had tea and biscuits in Adelaide with Dick Richards’s daughter, the most charming nonagenarian, Patricia Lathlean.
We can hardly imagine what life was really like in Antarctica in the early 1900s, so I travelled there on the Heritage Expeditions ship Spirit of Enderby to try and gain a better understanding of the Antarctic environment, and the conditions under which the men lived. Invercargill in New Zealand was our starting point at latitude 46° S and our destination was McMurdo Sound in Antarctica, latitude 77.5° S. Day after day the ship rolled its way across the Southern Ocean, covering no more than a few degrees of latitude each day. We encountered wild weather and rough seas. We saw our first icebergs drifting up from the south. Like past explorers we were stopped by pack ice. After ten days at sea we could see Antarctica, highlighted by the ice cliffs of the Great Ice Barrier. In the distance we could see the Trans-Antarctic Mountains, a range of mountains that went southward into Antarctica. We were in the hallowed ground of Scott and Shackleton. We had reached McMurdo Sound.
We stood silently by bunks at the Cape Evans hut (abandoned by Captain R. F. Scott’s expedition of 1910–13) that the men of the Mount Hope Party had slept on. We read a scribbled inscription on the wall by Dick Richards and, in the dim light, wondered who wore the blubber-stained improvised canvas trousers. We saw unopened tins of McDoddies dried vegetables on the shelves. We saw a game of ‘Bobs’ that the men entertained themselves with over the winter months. We stared unbelievingly at a pile of seal blubber, stacked by the men of the Mount Hope Party in 1916, frozen and untouched since that time. Outside the hut we were transfixed by the anchor and broken cables from the ship Aurora, embedded in the gravel beach since May 1915. At Discovery hut we walked around the one blubber stove, with a frying pan still on the plate, complete with seal chunks, also frozen and untouched for almost 100 years. We saw the few wooden planks raised up from the floor which men slept on during winter. We walked up the hill nearby where, in 1916, three men of the Mount Hope Party watched two of their comrades attempt to walk to Cape Evans, only 13 miles away.
We attempted a trek up Observation Hill, a prominent landmark at the foot of McMurdo Sound, but a sudden blizzard came on when only half the ship’s party had reached the summit so we were forced to return to the ship. It was probably nothing more than a strong wind with snow drift, but we experienced a little of what the men of the early 1900s may have experienced; we in our fleecy underwear and duck-down windcheaters, they with frostbitten fingers and toes, wearing worn and threadbare clothing.
But even with a trip to Antarctica, and armed with a mass of information from diaries, books, letters and journals, I found it impossible to accurately convey how and why these men of the early 1900s acted the way they did. One could make assumptions, surmise and guess, but what was the true story of the Mount Hope Party? Then I realised that the story could be told; by the men themselves. We have their diaries, almost all of them. And on most days we have a number of diary entries by more than one man to describe what happened. There are even explanations as to why they took a certain step, or what they thought of another man’s action or what was on their own mind. Their private thoughts are in the diaries. There is no better way to learn about the heroics of the six men of the Mount Hope Party than for these men to tell the story, in their own words – and that is through their diaries.
A number of relatives of the Mount Hope Party, and others who own copyright, have kindly given me permission to publish diary extracts. These include:
Betsy Krementz, the owner of Ernest Joyce’s original diary.
Julie George (Francis) and Judy Murray, relatives of Ernest Wild.
Debby Horsman and Clifford Smith, relatives of Arnold Patrick Spencer-Smith.
Peter Hayward, grand-nephew of Victor Hayward.
Canterbury Museum in Christchurch, New Zealand, who have copyright of Richard Walter Richards’s diary.
My talented brother Ian McOrist has added to the diary words with maps and my equally talented sister Jessie-Jean Walker has painted the portraits of the six men of the Mount Hope Party. Dr David Harrowfield, the Antarctic historian and geographer, offered to read my manuscript and made a number of excellent suggestions which I have incorporated. He has written a Postscript for which I am most grateful. I am indebted to Sir Ranulph Fiennes for his Foreword.
To Sheila Drummond and Anna Carmichael I am especially grateful, who, as literary agents, saw some value in my work, as did Heather Lane at SPRI. I have a special thank you for Victoria Godden, the Editorial Assistant at Biteback Publishing. Her attention to detail in the final editing and correcting of my manuscript was absolutely brilliant.
And last to thank is the lady who for years has put up with me idolising men from 100 years ago. Enough is enough, Suzanne said, so she decided to help, and more than help, she edited my book from page one to the end.
FOREWORD BY SIR RANULPH FIENNES
I WAS INTRODUCED TO Wilson McOrist, the author of Shackleton’s Heroes, by Dr David Harrowfield. David is a close colleague and a highly respected author, geographer and researcher of Antarctica. He had reviewed a draft manuscript of Wilson’s book and not only did he find it a most enjoyable read, but he was enthused by Wilson’s use of original diaries; diaries written in 1915–16.
Shackleton’s Heroes is told through the diaries of six men. The narrative adds a new and highly significant chapter to the early 1900s British Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. The six men were the Mount Hope Party, a small team who placed food depots out to Mount Hope on the Great Ice Barrier in 1915 and 1916. Shackleton intended to use the depots on the last 360 miles of his planned crossing of Antarctica; from Mount Hope near the foot of the Beardmore Glacier to Discovery hut in McMurdo Sound. I personally can appreciate Shackleton’s logic in needing such food depots. In 1993 Mike Stroud and I had walked across the Antarctic continent unsupported and had reached the start of the Great Ice Barrier, next to Mount Hope. We too were 360 miles from our support base at McMurdo Sound and we had only eight days of food left. For us to march that final 360 miles we would have needed food depots to have been laid for us.
The story of the Mount Hope Party is almost unknown because it has been dwarfed by Shackleton’s epic escape from the ice after his ship Endurance was crushed, the landing of his men on Elephant Island, his boat journey to South Georgia, his trek across that island and the rescue of all his men.
The release of the diaries to the public view exposes the intimate details of the Mount Hope Party story. We experience Antarctic life of 1915–16 with the words of the men who were there. It is a gripping tale with the most tragic of endings. An integral part of the story is the six months from October 1915 to March 1916 when the men were out on the Great Ice Barrier, man-hauling sledges, battling freezing conditions, severe blizzards, crevasses, sastrugi, waist-deep snow, and succumbing to frostbite, snow-blindness and scurvy. The six men of the Mount Hope Party were halted by a prolonged blizzard, only 10 miles from a food depot and within 80 miles of their hut. In their diaries they write of Scott because they knew they were in a similar predicament, and in close proximity to where he died just four years before. Many of these struggles I can relate to, having endured similar conditions during the ninety-three days of my crossing of Antarctica in 1992–3.
What also makes the diary release significant is that we have six diaries, one from each of the six men of the Mount Hope Party. We see events told from different perspectives. We read different points of view. And, beyond the immediacy of their writing, what makes the story even more interesting is the cast of characters. Six men of varied backgrounds, education, experience and personalities performed unbelievably heroic work, under harrowing and difficult conditions. For 100 years these diaries have remained hidden, except for the release of selected quotes in a small number of books.
I believe the diaries of the Mount Hope Party are an Antarctic literary treasure. I congratulate Wilson McOrist for not only bringing them out of obscurity but for weaving them together so they tell the fascinating, but true and definitive story of the Mount Hope Party: Shackleton’s Heroes.
Ranulph Fiennes
INTRODUCTION
IN THE BOOK South, the story of his attempt to cross Antarctica in 1914–17, Shackleton wrote: ‘I think that no more remarkable story of human endeavour has been revealed than the tale of that long march.’1
He was not referring to his retreat from Antarctica when, from January 1915 until April 1916, with his ship the Endurance trapped in the ice in the Weddell Sea and then crushed, he led his men, finally escaping in three lifeboats to Elephant Island.
His comment was unrelated to his famous 800-mile boat journey across the Southern Ocean.
And he was not alluding to his own efforts to trek across South Georgia to reach a whaling station so he could rescue his men stranded on Elephant Island.
Shackleton was referring to a march on the Great Ice Barrier of Antarctica by the ‘Mount Hope Party’. This party of six men were members of his support team based on the opposite side of the continent to the Weddell Sea. The Mount Hope Party consisted of five Englishmen: the leader, Captain Aeneas Lionel Acton Mackintosh, ex-Petty Officer Ernest Edward Mills Joyce, Petty Officer Harry Ernest Wild, the Reverend Arnold Patrick Spencer-Smith, and Victor George Hayward; and an Australian, Richard ‘Dick’ Walter Richards.
The ‘march’ Shackleton referred to was a 360-mile return journey made by these men from Mount Hope at the foot of the Beardmore Glacier in the Trans-Antarctic Mountains to the safety of Hut Point at McMurdo Sound in the Ross Sea. This is what Shackleton was describing as a remarkable story of human endeavour.
Background
After the conquest of the South Pole by Amundsen in December 1911, Shackleton had written: ‘…there remained but one great main object of Antarctic journeyings – the crossing of the South Polar continent from sea to sea.’2
In an attempt to cross Antarctica, Shackleton planned the 1914–17 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, which involved the use of two ships, the Endurance and the Aurora. The Endurance would take Shackleton’s party to the Weddell Sea and Shackleton would set off across the continent. His aim was to reach the South Pole and then continue on to McMurdo Sound, on the opposite side of Antarctica, coming down the Beardmore Glacier.
He would have a supporting party in the second ship, the Aurora. This party would sail from Australia to McMurdo Sound in the Ross Sea, establish camp there and lay a series of vital supply depots out across the Great Ice Barrier to Mount Hope at the foot of the Beardmore Glacier. These depots would support Shackleton’s final step, his last 360 miles crossing the continent.
Shackleton’s own story is well known. In early 1915 his ship the Endurance became caught in the pack ice in the Weddell Sea and, with the men, camped on the ice; the ship was squeezed, then smashed and broken up before it disappeared below the ice. The pack ice drifted slowly north before Shackleton and his men escaped in their three lifeboats, landing on Elephant Island, a mountainous, ice-covered and barren island off the coast of Antarctica. From there, in April 1916, Shackleton and five of his men set sail for help in one of the lifeboats, across 800 miles of the Southern Ocean to the island of South Georgia. After being forced to land on the opposite side of the island to a whaling port located there, Shackleton, with two of his men, crossed the mountains and glaciers on the island to reach the port, and assistance, so he could arrange for his men
at Elephant Island, and two still on South Georgia, to be picked up.
Not knowing of Shackleton’s aborted attempt to land on the opposite side of the continent, his supporting party established base at a hut in McMurdo Sound in the Ross Sea and made preparations for their sledging journey. They planned to lay two depots in the late summer of 1915 (January to March), one at 70 miles south of their base, at latitude 79°S, and the other 70 miles further south, near latitude 80°S. Then, after the winter of 1915, their plan was to lay more depots, at 81°S, 82°S, 83°S, then a final depot for Shackleton at 83° 30´S, next to Mount Hope by the Beardmore Glacier. This depot would be 360 miles from Hut Point.
Shackleton’s Heroes
There have only been a limited number of books written on the experiences of the Mount Hope Party, possibly because the story was dwarfed by Shackleton’s tale, which even today remains the classic story of adventure. Moreover, the Mount Hope tale can first appear to be little more than a story of wasted efforts to lay food depots that were not needed.
Two members of the Mount Hope Party did write books of their exploits. In 1929 Ernest Joyce’s book, The South Polar Trail: The Log of the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, was published. It is a loose transcript of his field diary. Many years later, in 1962, Dick Richards wrote a slim volume titled The Ross Sea Shore Party. In forty pages he covers his appointment by Mackintosh to join the expedition through to meeting with Shackleton when finally rescued. Like Joyce’s book, it is one man’s opinion and take on events. It was 2001 before the journalist Lennard Bickel wrote Shackleton’s Forgotten Men (originally titled Shackleton’s Argonauts), a novel about the Mount Hope Party. However, at his time of writing only a few primary source documents were available. In 2004, Richard McElrea and Dr David Harrowfield wrote a complete and accurate account of the entire Ross Sea Party story, titled Polar Castaways. Their book covers the period from 1914 to 1917 so there is limited space available to describe in full the critical three months, January–March 1916, when the six men returned from Mount Hope. In 2006 Kelly Tyler-Lewis also wrote of the Ross Sea Party in her book The Lost Men but only a small number of pages covered the months of January–March 1916. In Shackleton’s book on the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, South, he devoted a significant proportion (almost a third of his book) to the exploits of the men of his Ross Sea support party. He used selected diary extracts from only two of the men, Mackintosh and Joyce, to describe events, rather than his own words.