Keeper Of The Mountains
Page 28
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
ELIZABETH GREETING U.S. FIRST LADY HILLARY CLINTON AT A U.S. EMBASSY RECEPTION ON MARCH 31, 1995.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
ELIZABETH WITH HER PARENTS IN 1974.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
COLONEL JIMMY ROBERTS, ELIZABETH, AND AL READ OF MOUNTAIN TRAVEL ON NEW YEAR’S EVE IN 1978.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
ELIZABETH INTERVIEWING A CLIMBER WITH FROSTBITTEN TOES.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
ELIZABETH WITH CHRIS BONINGTON.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
IN KATHMANDU, ELIZABETH INTERVIEWS PAUL TEARE AND STEPHEN VENABLES BEFORE THEIR DEPARTURE FOR EVEREST’S KANGSHUNG (EAST) FACE, IN 1988.
COURTESY OF ED WEBSTER
ELIZABETH WITH AMERICAN FILMMAKER DAVID BREASHEARS AND BRITISH HISTORIAN AUDREY SALKELD IN 1996.
PHOTO BY LISA CHOEGYAL
ELIZABETH, AUGUST 1994.
PHOTO BY GOPAL CHITRAKAR, COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
ELIZABETH LIGHTING THE PYRE AT HER MOTHER’S CREMATION IN 1998.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
ELIZABETH MEETING ROYALTY.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
ELIZABETH WITH ITALIAN MOUNTAINEER REINHOLD MESSNER IN KATHMANDU IN 2004.
PHOTO BY LISA CHOEGYAL
ELIZABETH WITH RUSSIAN CLIMBERS VALERI BABANOV AND YURI KOCHELENKO IN AUTUMN 2003, AFTER THEIR SUCCESSFUL ASCENT OF NUPTSE.
COURTESY OF THE ELIZABETH HAWLEY COLLECTION
AMERICAN CLIMBER ED VIESTURS TALKING WITH ELIZABETH IN 2004.
PHOTO BY JIMMY CHIN
SLOVENIAN ALPINIST TOMAŽ HUMAR GIVING ELIZABETH FLOWERS IN 2004.
COURTESY OF THE TOMAŽ HUMAR COLLECTION
ELIZABETH’S KITCHEN.
PHOTO BY BERNADETTE MCDONALD
ELIZABETH’S OFFICE.
PHOTO BY BERNADETTE MCDONALD
DOOR TO ELIZABETH’S APARTMENT, INCLUDING THE SIGN IDENTIFYING HER AS THE NEW ZEALAND CONSUL.
PHOTO BY BERNADETTE MCDONALD
ELIZABETH’S FAMOUS BLUE 1963 VW BEETLE.
PHOTO BY BERNADETTE MCDONALD
ELIZABETH MEETING WITH ITALIAN CLIMBER SIMONE MORO.
PHOTO BY ALLISON OTTO
ELIZABETH INTERVIEWING IRANIAN CLIMBER PARVANEH KAZEMI.
PHOTO BY ALLISON OTTO
ELIZABETH HAWLEY IN 2012.
PHOTO BY ALLISON OTTO
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Periodicals and Newspapers
Alpin nr. 9
American Alpine Journal, 1970, 1992
Bangkok World, August 17, 1970
Daily Telegraph, London North Edition, November 16, 1972
Gripped, Summer 2004
Kuala Lumpur Straits Times, August 25, 1970
Nepali Times, April 12, 2003
New York Times, October 6, 1979
Outside Online, December 23, 2003
Peninsula Times Tribune, August 3, 1983
Rock & Ice, November/December 1994
——, September 2004
San Jose Mercury News, August 19, 1973
The Sunday Times, May 28, 1972
Time, October 27, 1986
General
Band, George. Everest: 50 Years on Top of the World. London: HarperCollins, 2003.
Bernstein, Jeremy. The Wildest Dreams of Kew: A Profile of Nepal. New Delhi: Book Faith India, 1998.
Bista, Dor Bahadur. Fatalism and Development: Nepal’s Struggle for Modernization. Calcutta: Orient Longman, 2001.
Bonington, Chris. Everest the Hard Way. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1976.
——. The Everest Years: A Climber’s Life. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1986.
Boukreev, Anatoli, and G. Weston DeWalt. The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest. New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 1997.
Curran, Jim. High Achiever: The Life and Climbs of Chris Bonington. London: Constable & Co., 1999.
Diemberger, Kurt. Spirits of the Air. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1991.
Douglas, Ed. Chomolungma Sings the Blues. London: Constable & Co., 1997.
Douglas, Ed, and David Rose. Regions of the Heart: The Triumph and Tragedy of Alison Hargreaves. London: Penguin, 1999.
Fanshawe, Andy, and Stephen Venables. Himalaya Alpine-Style. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1995.
Gregson, Jonathan. Blood Against the Snows: The Tragic Story of Nepal’s Royal Dynasty. London: Fourth Estate, 2002.
Hawley, Elizabeth, and Richard Salisbury. The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley. Golden, Colo.: American Alpine Club Press, 2004.
Hemmleb, Jochen, Larry Johnson and Eric Simonson. Ghosts of Everest. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1999.
Hillary, Edmund. View from the Summit. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1999.
Hillary, Louise. A Yak for Christmas. New York: Doubleday, 1969.
Humar, Tomaž. No Impossible Ways. Ljubljana: Mobitel, 2001.
Iyer, Pico. Video Night in Kathmandu and Other Reports from the Not-So-Far East. New York: Knopf, 1988.
Krakauer, Jon. Into Thin Air. New York: Villard, 1997.
Leuchtag, Erica. Erika and the King. New York: Coward-McCann, 1958.
Peissel, Michel. Tiger for Breakfast. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1966.
Roskelley, John. Stories Off the Wall. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1993.
Simpson, Colin. Kathmandu. New Delhi: Vikas Publishing House, 1976.
Suyin, Han. The Mountain Is Young. London: Jonathan Cape, 1958.
Tenzing, Tashi. Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest. Camden, Me.: Ragged Mountain Press, 2001.
Venables, Stephen. Everest: Kangshung Face. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1989.
——. Everest: Summit of Achievement. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2003.
Webster, Ed. Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest. South Freeport, Me.: Mountain Imagery, 2000.
Wielicki, Krzysztof. Crown of the Himalaya: 14 × 8000. Kraków: Wydawnictwo ATI, 1997
INDEX
The page numbers in this index refer to the print edition and have been linked to corresponding anchors in this electronic edition. Depending on your reading device and personal settings, you may have to continue scrolling down or turning pages before the index entry appears on your screen.
Abel, Elie 55, 66, 68
Abu Reish, Mahmoud 61
Adams, Barbara 78, 94, 104, 131, 132
Adventure Consultants 196
Agence France-Presse 111
Agnew, Spiro, U.S. vice-president 98
Aleppo, Syria 57
al-Said, Nuri, Iraq premier 57, 58
Ama Dablam 81, 124, 216, 220
American Alpine Club 231, 235
American Alpine Journal 99, 100, 224
Amman, Jordan 61
Anderson, Robert 161
Anker, Conrad 15, 202, 207
Annapurna 91, 104, 121, 234
1970 South Face expedition 105
2002 traverse by Lafaille and Iñurrategi 224
Annapurna Hotel 141
Annapurna I 140, 184, 188, 202
1978 all-women expedition 122
1992 Béghin and Lafaille summit attempt 184
1997 South Face ascent by Boukreev 202
Annapurna IV 182
Aqaba, Jordan 62
Arab Nationalism, 1958 62
Arsentiev, Sergei and Francys 202, 203
Aryaghat 221
Asch, Sholem 61
Aufschnaiter, Peter 79
Babanov, Valeri 215, 224
Bagmati River 113, 170, 222
Bahadur Bhawan 74
Ball, Gary 165
Batard, Marc 163, 203
Baween 73
Beckwith, Christian 224, 236
Béghin, Pierre 134, 140, 184, 185
Belak-Šrauf, Stane 212
Belgrade,
Yugoslavia 48, 55
Bell, Gertrude 56, 57, 62
Beni Bazaar, Nepal 229
Berlin, Germany 49
Bhadgaon, Nepal 71
Bianchi, Marco 188
Bishop, Barry 84, 85, 86
Bista, Kirtinidhi, Nepalese prime minister 96
Blum, Arlene 121
Blum, Dick 134
Boardman, Peter 116, 122, 137
Bobaye 233
Bodhnath, Nepal 71
Bonington, Chris 81, 104, 108, 109, 116, 117, 136, 137, 139, 185
Boukreev, Anatoli 26, 167, 197, 201, 202
Boysen, Martin 104, 116
Bradey, Lydia 164, 165, 166, 188
Breashears, David 28, 128, 134, 237
Brice, Russell 13, 172, 211
Brown, Michael 214, 217
Buhler, Carlos 101, 238
meets Elizabeth for the first time 14
Bulganin, Nikolai 53
Burke, Mick 105, 108, 116
Cairo, Egypt 59
Carsolio, Carlos 184, 189, 198
Carter, Ad 231
Carter, Jimmy, U.S. president 94, 141
Česen, Tomo 167, 175–177, 211
Chamoux, Benoît 191
Cheney, Mike 100, 144
Chhiri, Babu 216, 228
Chhiri, Dawa 215
Child, Greg 15, 28, 166, 185
Chivas Regal 227
Choegyal (née van Greisen), Lisa 93, 134
Cholatse
1982 American ascent 135
Cho Oyu 116, 163, 168, 186, 190
1989 battle between Belgians and South Koreans 168
Christie, Agatha 104
Chuldim 28
Cichy, Leszek 125
Clarbrough, Mal 239
Clinton, Hillary 94
Clough, Ian 105
Coapman, John 92
Coburn, Broughton
Elizabeth’s relationship with Himalayan Trust and climbers 130
Crouse, Bill 238
Crown Prince Dipendra of Nepal 220
massacre of royal family 222
Crown Prince Paras of Nepal 226
Cultural Revolution 89
Czechoslovakia 164
Czok, Andrzej 126
Damascus, Syria
1958 plebicite 58
David-Néel, Alexandra 56
De Stefani, Fausto 195
Devi, Nanda 86
de Zwart, Milja 200
Dhaulagiri 91, 188, 189, 211, 233, 234
1999 South Face ascent by Humar 212
Dhaulagiri I 99, 110, 138, 180
1973 American expedition 110
1996 East Face climb by Vos 200
Dickinson, Leo 16, 209
Diemberger, Kurt 29, 138, 139, 214
Dinesen, Isak 56
Dixit, Kunda 230, 232
Dorje, Pemba 228
May 20-21, 2004, Everest ascent 21, 29
Douglas, Ed 15, 239
Duke of Argyll 227
Dunn, Cyril 66
Dyhrenfurth, Hettie 192
Dyhrenfurth, Norman 84, 105, 106
Edwards, Jim 92, 93, 141
El Amin, Mamoun 50, 51
es Sabbah, Sheikh Abdullah Mubarak, Kuwaiti deputy ruler 63
Estcourt, Nick 105, 108
Everest 105, 110, 120, 125, 140, 181, 187, 188, 195, 198, 203, 204, 216, 234
1963 American Mount Everest Expedition 86
1971 International Himalayan Expedition 106
1972 First Southwest Face expedition 108
1972 Second Southwest Face expedition 109
1973 Italian Everest expedition 109
1975 all-women Japanese expedition 115
1975 British Everest Southwest Face Expedition 117
1978 attempt without bottled oxygen 121
1979-80 Polish winter ascent 125
1979 Yugoslav West Ridge expedition 122
1980 Messner solo 126
1980 Polish South Pillar route 126
1981 American Kangshung Face route 135
1982 American Great Couloir route 137
1982 British Northeast Ridge route 137
1986 North Face 140
1988 British–American–Canadian expedition 162
1988 Chinese-Japanese-Nepalese Friendship Expedition 161, 162
1988 Czech Southwest Face summit and tragedy 163
1988 New Zealand expedition; Lydia Bradey summit 166
1993 summit attempt of Pasang Lhamu Sherpa 186
1996 commercial guiding disaster 197
1996 South African expedition 198
1997 ascent by Tashi Tenzing 202
1998 Arsentiev tragedy 203
1998 speed ascent by Sherpa Kaji 203
2003 50th anniversary of first summit 229
Batard speed climb 163
outstanding climbs according to Elizabeth 233
Patscheider speed climb 163
Everett, Boyd 99
February, Ed 197
Finland 50
Fischer, Scott 196, 197
Fortune magazine 44, 45, 97
Four Against Everest 83
Frank, Ralph 205
Friedberg, Judy 48, 52, 63
Frost, Tom 105
Furth, Albert 69
Gandhi, Indira, Indian prime minister 109
Gaurishankar 89, 122
1979 summit by John Roskelley and Dorje Sherpa 123
Gelu, Lhakpa 228
Gokyo Valley 135
Golden Age of Polish mountaineering 126
Gomulka, Wladyslaw 52
Gore, Amanda (maternal grandmother) 31
Gore, Edward (maternal grandfather) 31
Gray, Dennis 88
Gresham, Bill 84
Griffin, Lindsay 225, 236
Grošelj, Viktor 122, 176
Gustafsson, Veikka 188
Habeler, Peter 120, 127
Hagen, Toni 79
Hahn, Dave 26, 182, 203, 204, 208
Hajzer, Artur 140
Hall, Rob 164, 185, 188, 196, 197
Hargreaves, Alison 188
Haston, Dougal 105, 108, 116
Hawley, Ann (sister-in-law) 46
Hawley, Elizabeth 129, 139, 188
1957 travels to Eastern Europe and the Soviet Union 55
1958 travels to Turkey and the Middle East 63
1959 travels to South and Southeast Asia 68
1973 Japanese expedition scoop 111
1975 Ministry of Tourism ban on her reporting 111, 120
1985 press accreditation denied 141, 142
1996 reporting on Everest disasters 198
1999 discovery of Mallory’s body 208
20th anniversary of Junko Tabei’s Everest ascent 192
American Alpine Club Literary Award 231
apartment in Kathmandu 72
appearance of 23
application to Ford Foundation Foreign Area Training Fellowship 70
application to USIA 69, 70
arrangement with Knickerbocker Foundation 70, 75
arrangement with Reuters 83, 85, 105
arrangement with Time Inc. 70, 75, 77, 82
at Fortune 45, 47, 48, 51
at Life 69
birthdate 31
character of 14, 20, 28, 44, 239
childhood polio 33
commercial and guided climbing in the Himalaya 180
comparison with Audrey Salkeld 209
covering Nepal’s first election 66
criticism of 214, 225
death of mother, Florelle 171
early interest in international affairs 38
early travels 46, 51
early work on mountaineering database with Richard Salisbury 183
early years 35
first impression of Kathmandu 65
friendship with Barbara Adams 79, 104
friendship with Colonel Jimmy Roberts 91, 100
friendship with Micky Weatherall 78
friendship with Professor Preston Slosson 38
f
riendship with Reinhold Messner 128
friendship with Sir Edmund Hillary 114, 240
Himalayan Trust 103
Honorary Queen’s Service Medal for Public Services 233
interviewed by San Jose Mercury News 107
interviewing schedule 27
interview sleuthing 29
introduction to life as foreign correspondent 54
King Albert I Memorial Foundation award 232
mother’s failing health 143
mountaineering archive 21, 235, 236
New Zealand honorary consul 174
Post-War Council 40
reaction to brother’s death 46
relationship with father, Frank 39
relationship with mother, Florelle 38, 40, 112
relationship with nephew, Michael 46
relationship with servants 73
romantic relationships 42, 51, 83, 84, 89, 240
Royal Nepal Airlines hostesses 143
Sagarmatha National Award 232
schedule of 25
sharing information 101
speaking Nepali 82
special citation from Reuters 231
style of writing for alpine magazines 100
successor 236
theory of romance with Edmund Hillary 16
undergraduate years 43
with the United Nations Relief and Works Agency (UNRWA) 57, 58
work for Mountain Travel 91
working with Heather Macdonald 206
work with Tiger Tops 92, 94
Hawley, Frank (father) 31, 32
death of 112
early life 31
relationship with Elizabeth 34
Hawley, John (brother) 33, 42
death of 46
Hawley, Michael (nephew) 46
Hawley (née Gore), Florelle (mother)
early life 31
failing health 143
funeral and internment 171
last days in Kathmandu and death of 170
meets husband Frank 31
Hawn, Goldie 93
Helsinki, Finland 49, 53
Hemmleb, Jochen 207
Herrligkoffer, Dr. Karl 108
Herrod, Bruce 197
Hetauda, Nepal 119
Hillary, Belinda 112
death of 113
Hillary, Lady June 17, 124, 142
Hillary, Lady Louise 112
death of 113
Hillary, Peter 113, 124
Hillary, Sarah 113
Hillary, Sir Edmund 86, 94, 112, 124, 131, 135, 142, 207, 227, 232
1953 ascent of Everest 102
1960 high-altitude expedition 81