Chile Peppers
Page 25
A troop of langur monkeys. Photograph by Alverdissen. Bigstock Photo.
Chef Chattar Singh led a spirited demonstration of Indian snacks, including poori, pakoras, samosas, boondi, and paneer. Boondi is a simple fried bread made with chickpea flour and ground lovage seeds (lovage is also known as Italian parsley—substitute celery seeds) while pakoras are deep-fried vegetables that are first coated in a batter of chickpea flour, red chile powder, and turmeric. My favorite pakoras were made of green chile strips, onion, and eggplant. The samosas were the familiar fried triangular turnovers, while the boondi looked a bit like vermicelli but was really from a batter passed through a colander and into hot oil for deep frying. The Indian cottage cheese known as paneer is an acquired taste, but it’s a fascinating process to make it.
San Jay Anand (right) and chef Singh at the cooking demo. Photograph by Dave DeWitt.
Water buffalo or whole cow’s milk is boiled, then vinegar or lemon juice is added, instantly curdling it. The heat is turned off and the curdled milk is transferred to a fine cloth, which is hung outdoors to drip. After only 30 minutes, the cheese is ready to eat.
Next up for the demo was one of our fellow members of the tour, Sanjay Anand, who owns Madhu’s Brilliant Restaurant in Middlesex, England. He gave a spirited demonstration of the incredibly simple—and amazingly tasty—jeera chicken, which contains only chicken, salt, black pepper, cumin, and butter. He told us it was his father’s favorite recipe.
Another simple yet wonderful fast food was prepared for us at the Rajasthan Painting Development School, where we were buying some fine paintings on camel bone. Pat and one of the directors there fixed jungli maas, one of the most basic chile-pepper dishes in the world. All it took was a pot and a small gas burner to make it. They served it to us with no accompaniment except for a bottle of Super Strong Beer, with 8.7 percent alcohol. “Strong chiles call for strong beer,” the director told us.
Later that night we sat by the lake sipping nightcaps and listening to the sounds of the countryside. We had learned at dinner that the monkeys were part of the show at the Shikarbadi, as the chefs fed them leftovers and turned them into Indian-food aficionados. But they were asleep now, as we soon were with the full moonlight streaming over the lake and into room 15.
ADDITIONAL MEMORIES OF INDIA
Cows were ubiquitous in India, but not all Hindus love them. At the New Delhi airport, we saw a cabbie whose vehicle was blocked by cows. He got out of his cab and started kicking the cows on their butts, and people were cheering him on. In another part of New Delhi we saw a scene that was so typically Indian that I imagined I was a filmmaker. Our bus was parked near a roundabout. There were four cows milling about in the traffic circle, and every vehicle imaginable was trying to avoid running into them—cars, bicycles, motorcycles, buses, and lorries. I imagined a locked-down shot of that chaos that lasted about 30 seconds, and then a camera tilt up to reveal a billboard advertising computers for sale. India is the weirdest country I visited on my chile pepper quest but also one of the most charming and endearing ones.
As with Stonehenge in England, the Taj Mahal was a bit of a disappointment. It was a sterile monument to love in a dirty, gray, polluted city called Agra. The food was great, however, at a nearby restaurant, despite the fact that it catered to tourists, not locals.
We also stayed at the five-star Taj Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur, where parts of the James Bond movie Octopussy were filmed. The hotel was built as a summer palace in the middle of Lake Pichola between 1743 and 1746 under the direction of the Maharana Jagat Singh II, and it seems as if it is floating on the water. The Internet Movie Database comments, “Permission to shoot in the region of Udaipur had to be sought and granted from the reigning Royal Maharana Bagwat Singh. He would frequently entertain the A-list of the cast and crew at dinners during production, where they would be served specially made Rose Wine.”
The most romantic dinner of the entire India trip was set aboard a small replica of the Royal Barge of the Maharaja of Udaipur, which launched after sunset from the Lake Palace, accompanied by a motorboat tender to ferry people back to the hotel to use the restrooms. A nearly full moon reflected off the lake as we ordered drinks from the full bar aboard the boat. The food was mostly seekh kababs, spiced with a green chile paste, that were grilled on small charcoal units resembling Japanese hibachi grills, and the kababs were served over premade rice. But they were spicy and delicious.
After Udaipur, we were done with the bus and took a jet to Mumbai, where we stayed at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel near the Gateway of India, an arch monument erected to commemorate the landing of King George V and Queen Mary on their visit to India in 1911. I remember walking along the beach near the location of the immersion of the Ganesh Statues during the 10-day Ganesh Chaturthi festival. Ganesh, of course is the beloved elephant god who is the lord of arts and sciences and the deva of wisdom. Mary Jane and I bought so much stuff on the India trip that we had to buy an additional suitcase, and the walk to the luggage store required us to step over many people sleeping on the sidewalks. We tried not to disturb them.
Replica of the royal barge. Photograph by Dave DeWitt.
The highlight of our stay in Mumbai was the extensive set of cooking demonstrations given by the chefs of the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Just 12 years after our visit, Pakistani terrorists attacked the hotel, killing 166 people and wounding some of the chefs. When Mary Jane and I, safe in our home in Albuquerque, heard about the horrible attack, we were having “there but for the grace of God” thoughts.
FEATURED CHILE PEPPER: CAYENNE
Most of the chiles grown on Indian farms are varieties of the cayenne pod type. This annuum pod type was named after either the city of Cayenne or the Cayenne River, both in French Guiana. However, the chile is not grown commercially there—or anywhere in South America.
The plant is treelike with multiple stems and an erect habit, often reaching 3 feet in height with foliage 2 feet in width. The leaves are ovate, smooth, and medium green in color, measuring 3 1/2 inches long and 2 inches wide. The flowers have white corollas with no spots. The pods are elongate and sharply pointed, pendant to curving erect, measuring 6 to 10 inches long by 1 inch wide, and turn red at maturity. A good-sized plant can easily produce 40 or more pods during a season.
Lal mirch, an Indian cayenne in the author’s garden. Photograph by Dave DeWitt.
There is good reason for Cayenne’s reputation as one of the hottest of the chiles. This type consistently measures between 30,000 and 50,000 SHU, making them 10 times hotter than a jalapeño.
A mystery surrounds the origin of cayenne. Possibly this chile was transferred to Europe by the Portuguese, who later introduced it into Africa and India. Cayenne is grown commercially in New Mexico, Louisiana, Africa, India, Japan, and Mexico. The growing period is 90 days or more. In 1988, 15,087 metric tons of dried red chiles—mostly cayenne—were imported into the United States. Dried cayenne pods are known as “Ginnie peppers” in world commerce. Popular cultivars of the cayenne type are ‘Hot Portugal,’ ‘Ring of Fire,’ and ‘Hades Hot.’ They are grown only for their heat, not for color or flavor.
Legend holds that cayenne is the hottest chile pepper of them all, but it is not—the ‘Carolina Reaper’ holds that honor. The cayenne chile has long been thought to have therapeutic properties. In 1832, herbalist Samuel Thompson writes, “It is no doubt the most powerful stimulant known; its power is entirely congenial to nature, being powerful in raising and maintaining heat, on which life depends. . . . I consider it essentially a benefit, for its effects on the glands causes the saliva to flow freely and leaves the mouth clean and moist.”
Primarily this chile is ground into cayenne powder (also called red pepper) or processed into hot sauces. It is quite important in spicing up Cajun dishes such as gumbos and seafood, and the dried pods can be used—carefully—in Asian stir-fry dishes. The fresh green or red pods can be chopped for use in salsas or salads.
recipes
Mango chutney. Photograph by Solnuha. iStock.
CLASSIC MANGO CHUTNEY
yield
1 ½ cups
heat scale
hot
The word “chutney” comes from the Hindi word chatni, and this fruit version is a favorite during the summer months in northern India. It is not unusual to find multiple chile heat sources in one recipe. This chutney is served with curries or can be used as a glaze for grilled chicken or lamb chops.
2
teaspoons ground cayenne
5
small green chiles such as serranos, stems and seeds removed, chopped
1
large ripe mango, peeled and chopped
3
dried apricots, soaked in water until soft, chopped
2
tablespoons orange or lime juice
2
teaspoons ground coriander
1
teaspoon ground cumin
1
teaspoon ground ginger
¼
teaspoon ground cloves
¼
teaspoon ground nutmeg
2
teaspoons honey or sugar
Place all ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Allow the chutney to sit for a couple of hours to blend all the flavors.
JUNGLI MAAS
yield
4 to 6 servings
heat scale
hot
In the Mewari language of Rajasthan, jungli maas refers to a dish that would be prepared by a stranded hunter who only has the basics with him. It is amazingly tasty considering the limited ingredients. It is also quite hot, so serve it with some plain white rice.
2
cups ghee (clarified butter), or substitute vegetable oil
2
pounds lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
10
lal mirch chiles, or substitute dried cayennes or ‘Mirasol’ peppers, stems removed, left whole
2
teaspoons salt
Water as needed
In a pot, heat the ghee or oil and add the meat, stirring constantly for 10 minutes. Add the whole chiles and salt, and continue cooking. Add water as necessary to make sure that the meat neither fries nor boils but is essentially braised. Continue cooking until the meat is tender, about an hour more, stirring occasionally. Remove the chiles before serving.
MADRAS CURRY POWDER
yield
about 1 cup
heat scale
hot
The British took the name “curry powder” from the Indian kari podi, which refers to a turmeric-based powder used in the South of India. There is no single recipe for curry, as each dish requires its own spice mixture to produce its own unique taste. However, there are many recipes that call for curry powder, and the following all-purpose mix is a welcome change from commercial products.
5
tablespoons dried, ground red New Mexican chile
2
teaspoons ground cayenne
4
tablespoons ground coriander seeds
4
tablespoons ground cumin seeds
½
teaspoon ground ginger
1
teaspoon ground fenugreek seeds
1
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1
tablespoon ground cardamom
1
teaspoon ground cloves
Mix all the ingredients together and grind in a blender or mortar and pestle until fine. Store in a tight-fitting jar.
LAMB VINDALOO
yield
4 servings
heat scale
very hot
Vindaloo, one of many types of curry, originated in the western region of India. It is derived from the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d’alhos, pork marinated in wine and garlic. It can be prepared with beef, chicken, lamb, or seafood; although not traditional, potatoes sometimes are added. Almost universal on Indian-restaurant menus, vindaloo is one of the hottest curry dishes. Traditionally, it is extremely hot, so adjust the amount of chile to your tolerance level. This recipe has three steps: preparing the marinade, making the curry paste, and cooking the curry. The curry paste and marinade may be made one day ahead.
CURRY PASTE
¼
cup whole grain mustard
2 to 4
tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes (or 4 to 6 dried chiles)
1 ½
tablespoons ground cumin
1
tablespoon coarse kosher salt
1
tablespoon red wine vinegar
2
teaspoons ground turmeric
MARINADE
1
yellow onion
3
tablespoons coriander seeds
4 to 6
dried Kashmiri or Thai (hotter) chiles
1
tablespoon cumin seeds
8
cloves garlic (about 2 ½ tablespoons)
1
(1-inch) stick cinnamon
1
teaspoon black peppercorns
2
teaspoons fenugreek seeds
1
teaspoon fennel seeds
1
(1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
¼
cup white vinegar
2
pounds lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes
¼
cup vegetable oil
2
yellow onions, halved and sliced thinly
8
garlic cloves, minced (about 2 1/2 tablespoons)
1
(13 1/2–ounce) can coconut milk
Prepare the curry paste by combining all of the ingredients in a glass bowl.
Prepare the marinade by grinding the coriander, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, peppercorns, fenugreek, and fennel in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Process the chiles with the garlic, onion, and ginger to form a paste. Place the meat into a container. Pour the marinade over the meat and marinate, refrigerated, for at least 3 hours or overnight. Remove the lamb from the marinade and drain. Combine the curry paste with the vinegar. Rub the paste onto the meat.
Put oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and fry until it is dark brown but not burnt. Add the garlic and fry for 30 seconds. Add the meat, and stir and brown for about 5 minutes. Pour in the coconut milk. Add more water, if necessary, to just cover the meat. Bring to a boil, cover the pot, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about an hour or until the lamb is tender. Stir occasionally and add more liquid if necessary.
Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve over hot basmati rice with mango chutney and naan bread.
TANDOORI MURGH (CHICKEN TANDOORI-STYLE)
yield
4 servings
heat scale
medium
Tandoori chicken, a famous Indian dish, is also one of the tastiest. The word tandoori refers to any food cooked in a tandoor, which is a giant unglazed clay oven. The chicken in this recipe is marinated twice, first with the lemon juice, then with the yogurt mixture. You can approximate a tandoor by using a charcoal grill or gas broiler, but the food won’t achieve the exact flavor. The texture is difficult to duplicate since the tandoor reaches such high temperatures, up to 800 degrees F., but even if the chicken is not strictly traditional, it’s still flavorful. Those who are watching their fat intake will like cooking chicken in the tandoori style since the skin is removed from the chicken before it is cooked. And, by using a low-fat yogurt in the marinade, the fat is reduced even further. This chicken is traditionally served with cooling mint chutney. Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.
THE CHICKEN
4
chicken breasts, skin removed
2 to 3
teaspoons ground cayenne chile
1
tablespoon ground paprika
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½
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½
cup lemon juice
3
tablespoons melted butter
Garnish: lemon slices, mint raita
THE MARINADE
1
cup plain yogurt
¼
teaspoon crushed saffron threads dissolved in 1/4 cup hot water
1
tablespoon grated ginger
1
tablespoon chopped garlic
3
teaspoons ground red chile, such as New Mexican or piquin
2
teaspoons garam masala
1
teaspoon ground coriander