Encyclopedia of Jewish Food
Page 93
In a different vein, masa or massa is the Greek pronunciation of matza.
(See Ajin (Middle Eastern Dough) for Middle Eastern Semolina Dough (Ajin Smead))
Sephardic Oil Pastry Dough (Masa Aceite)
about 18 ounces; enough for about thirty-two 3-inch turnovers or one large two-crust pie
[PAREVE]
½ cup vegetable or olive oil
½ cup lukewarm water (80°F to 90°F)
¾ teaspoon salt
About 2½ cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
In a medium bowl, combine the oil, water, and salt. Stir in 1 cup of the flour. Gradually stir in enough of the remaining flour to make a soft dough that comes away from the sides of the bowl. Form into a ball, flatten slightly, wrap in plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Do not refrigerate.
Variation
Sephardic Cheese Pastry (Masa Kon Kezo):
With the flour, add 1/3 to ½ cup grated kefalotiri, kashkaval, Kasseri, Parmesan, or Swiss cheese. Sephardim use it to make cheese turnovers called borekitas and other dairy pastries.
Sephardic Oil-Butter Pastry Dough (Masa Fina)
about 18 ounces; enough for about thirty-two 3-inch turnovers or one large two-crust pie
[DAIRY]
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup lukewarm water (80°F to 90°F)
2½ teaspoons white vinegar
¾ teaspoon salt
About 2½ cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
In a medium bowl, beat together the butter, oil, water, vinegar, and salt. Gradually work in enough flour to make a soft dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Do not overwork the dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Sephardic Sour Cream Pastry Dough (Otra Masa Afrijaldada)
about 22 ounces; enough for about thirty-two 3-inch pastry turnovers or two 9-inch pie shells
[DAIRY]
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, softened
¼ cup sour cream or plain yogurt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
½ teaspoon salt
About 2½ cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
In a medium bowl, combine the butter, sour cream, egg, and salt. Gradually stir in enough flour to make a soft dough. Form into a ball, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand in a cool place for at least 1 hour or in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Masconod
Masconod is a pasta roll filled with Parmesan cheese.
Origin: Italy
Other names: lasagna alla cannella.
This ancient Italian Jewish dish shares an obvious similarity to the better-known cannelloni (little channels). The pasta squares are spread with grated Parmesan cheese, then rolled up jelly-roll style and baked. There is both a savory version with pepper and a sweeter one one with sugar and cinnamon. In Italian households, masconod is a common festival dish, especially on Sukkot (le Feste).
Italian Pasta Rolls (Masconod)
6 to 8 servings
[DAIRY]
1 recipe (1 pound) Egg Noodle Dough
2 2/3 cups (8 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon ground black pepper, or 6 tablespoons sugar and 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough into a 1/8-inch thickness. Cut into 5-inch squares (about 20). Cover and let dry for about 30 minutes.
2. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a rapid boil. In several batches, add the pasta and cook until al dente (tender but still firm), about 5 minutes. Drain, rinse the pasta with cold water, then drain again.
3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan.
4. In a medium bowl, combine the Parmesan and pepper (or Parmesan, sugar, and cinnamon). Place the pasta squares on a flat surface. Spread 2 tablespoonfuls of the cheese mixture over the pasta, then roll up jelly-roll style. Place, seam side down, in the prepared dish. Sprinkle with any excess cheese. Alternatively, layer the pasta squares with the Parmesan mixture like lasagna.
5. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes.
Mashgiach
Mashgiach (Hebrew meaning "supervisor") is a person qualified to supervise the production of kosher foods, whether in a factory, restaurant, or store, in accordance with the Jewish dietary laws. A mashgiach does not need to be a rabbi or male but, when dealing with meat, must be specially trained. The rav hamachshir supervising rabbi) is the head rabbi who supervises a mashgiach. Kosher supervision is called hashgachah and a guarantee of kashrut given by a mashgiach is a hechsher (hechsherim plural).
(See also Kosher)
Mastic
Mastic (aza in Arabic) is the aromatic resin of a small evergreen member of the pistachio family. The liquid, produced by making small cuts into the bark of the trunk and large branches, dries into a hard, pale yellowish, translucent resin, which softens and turns bright white when chewed. The typical mastic plant yields about ten pounds of resin each summer. Mastic may be the biblical spice loht, borne by the caravan taking Joseph to Egypt and later sent by Jacob to the Egyptian prime minister, while the mastic shrub may be the biblical bakha (meaning "crying," denoting the pea-sized tearlike drops of resin).
Mastic was once widely valued as a protective dressing for wounds and a material for filling cavities in teeth. Accordingly, the Tosefta (early rabbinic rulings omitted from the Mishnah) instructs that on the Sabbath mastic may not be chewed as a medicine, but may be chewed to counter bad breath. In the eastern Mediterranean, mastic is also pulverized into a powdery spice used in small amounts to impart a piney-licorice flavor to sweet baked goods, puddings, jams, liqueurs, and confections (such as the Turkish rahat locum and Greek gliko tou koutaliou). In modern Hebrew, mastik means "chewing gum."
Matbucha
Matbucha is a tomato and pepper-based cooked salad.
Origin: Morocco
Other names: Morocco: matbocha, salada matbucha; Tunisia: makbuba, mecbouba.
Matbucha means "cooked stuff"; the name is derived from the Arabic infinitive tabukh (cook). The ingredients are simmered together to meld the flavors and reduce the liquid, but not long enough to transform it into a smooth sauce. There are numerous versions, but all are based on tomatoes. The most widespread type is made simply with tomatoes, roasted red bell peppers, olive oil, and plenty of garlic. Moroccans always peel the tomatoes and peppers before cooking. Some people add mushrooms, carrots, olives, or onions. Like American salsa, matbucha comes in plain, mild, and hot versions; the spiciness is controlled by adding varying amounts of chilies or hot paprika. A similar Maghrebi dish, topped with eggs and frequently without the peppers, is called shakshouka. Although some people mistakenly refer to matbucha as Turkish salad (salade Turkiye), the latter is a fresh tomato and pepper salsa.
In the 1950s, Moroccan immigrants brought this Maghrebi-inspired dish to Israel, where it became one of the predominant foods. Matbucha is now available in every Israeli grocery and is a staple in mezzes (appetizer assortments) and meals. Many Israeli families always keep some handy in the refrigerator, along with hummus and baba ghanouj. Still some Israelis insist on making their own matbucha, particularly for special occasions.
Although commonly classified as a "salad," matbucha is enjoyed as a dip and bread spread rather than eaten straight. It is usually served as an accompaniment to bread or crackers, but is also used as a filling for miniature tarts and omelets and a topping for potatoes and rice. Matbucha is beloved on the Sabbath as well as during the week. The widespread Israeli street food called a "Tunisian sandwich" consists of oil-packed tuna, cooked potatoes, preserved lemon, capers, olives, and matbucha on a French bread roll. Today, Israeli-inspired versions of matbucha are available in American grocery stores, but the dish has yet to catch on in the United States in the manner of hummus.
Moroccan Cooked Tomato and Pepper Salad (Matbucha)
about 7 cups
> [PAREVE]
½ cup olive or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
5 pounds (about 20) ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
About ½ teaspoon table salt or 1 teaspoon kosher salt
2½ pounds (5 to 6 large) red or green bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into thin strips or coarsely chopped
2 to 3 small red or green chilies, seeded and minced, or 1 tablespoon sweet or hot paprika
1. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to break down, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the bell peppers and chilies. Cook, stirring frequently to prevent burning, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 1 hour. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Matza
Matza (also commonly spelled matzah, matzo, and matzoh), an unleavened bread, is one of the three biblical culinary components of the Passover Seder, along with pesach (the paschal offering) and maror (bitter herb); it is also the only type of bread eaten throughout the festival. Indeed, the biblical name for the seven-day spring celebration of the redemption from Egypt is actually Chag ha-Matzot (Holiday of the Matzas), not Passover; the word Passover originally pertained only to the paschal offering made on the afternoon before Passover and the Seder. The last shared act that every Israelite performed before being freed from slavery in Egypt, as well as the very first act that the entire nation shared as free people at their first stop, was eating matza.
The word matza is derived from the root mootz (to press/squeeze). Thus the literal meaning of matza is "pressed bread," and is analogous to the English term flatbread. Matza was actually a rather standard loaf of the ancient Middle East and had been prepared by nomads since time immemorial. The word was first recorded in English in the Jewish Manual (London, 1846), in which it was spelled matso (probably from the Hebrew plural form, matzot).
What differentiates flatbreads eaten or owned during Passover from those consumed during the rest of the year was not thickness or richness but the mandate for a complete absence of any chametz or se'or (starter dough) in the loaves. To qualify as matza for the Seder, the loaf must contain no ingredients other than flour and water, and it must be mixed, formed, and baked within a prescribed eighteen- minute period.
Throughout most of history, the making of bread, including matza, was women's work. It was customary for each household to bake their own matza. Typically, this task was performed in groups of two or three women: one to mix and knead, and one or two to add the water, roll or spread the dough, and bake.
The Bible directs, "u'shemartem [and you shall guard] the matzas, for on this day I took you out of Egypt," denoting the necessity of supervising and preparing the grain used for matza so that it does not become chametz. There are two types of flour for matza: flour from grain that is guarded from the time of harvesting (shemirah mishaat ketzirah), yielding shemurah matza (guarded matza); and flour that is guarded from the time of milling (shemirah m'techinah v'ailakh), yielding matza peshutah (regular matza). In addition, there exists a secondary objective to the biblical directive: ensuring that the making of the matza be for the sake of the commandment. Thus, at the beginning of each of the eleven steps of the matza-making process, from harvesting the wheat to placing the matza in the oven, the person involved must declare, "l'shem matza mitzvah" (in the name of the commandment of matza).
The wheat for matza is harvested in the early afternoon of a sunny day, after the moisture level in the kernels has decreased to less than 13 percent. After threshing, the kernels are stored in bins and watched over until ready for grinding into flour, around Hanukkah. Milling takes place in thoroughly cleaned and supervised mills. The kernels are not rinsed with water, but kept dry. Split and sprouted kernels, signs of the presence of external moisture, are rejected. The bran and germ are generally removed before milling, yielding a finer flour with a longer shelf life. Some authorities favor white flour, considering it of higher quality, while others insist whole wheat is preferable, since there is less processing and, therefore, less chance of heat affecting the kernels. Matza flour is never bleached or chemically treated. After milling, the matza flour is sacked and stored in a cool, dry place and kept away from heat and moisture.
Although matza is arguably the best-known biblical food, it is today perhaps the least understood; it is equated by most Westerners with a thin, unleavened, cracker-like product that is frequently square. This, however, was not the original bread. For most of its history, matza was relatively thick, dense, and soft—akin to a firm pita bread—and, like most freeform flatbreads, round. Matza does not even have to be thin, as the Talmud and Sephardic authorities allow matza for Passover to be up to the thickness of a tefach ("handbreadth," from three to four inches), the size of the lechem ha'panim (showbread), an unleavened bread of the Temple. Cracker-like matza was actually a relatively late development, emerging perhaps around the fifteenth century in Ashkenazic communities. The original style of soft matza is still made by many Mizrachi and some Sephardim. Similarly, Ethiopian Jews make a soft matza called kita for Fassikah (Passover). Sephardim call thick matzas by the name boyos (from the Spanish bollo, meaning "bun/small cake") and thinner ones maniuo; the latter were generally used for cooking.
A softer, more pliable form of matza sheds a different light on several aspects of Seder rituals. Soft matza explains the name and nature of the koraik (wrap), the "Hillel sandwich." Soft matza accounts for the kabbalistic custom of placing the heavy Seder plate directly on top of the matzas, for the soft ones could absorb the weight, while brittle, hard loaves would crack or shatter.
Soft matzas do have one major drawback—they tend to become stale rather quickly. Accordingly, they were generally made fresh on a daily basis throughout the festival, except for the Sabbath. Hence the Arukh Hashulchan recounts, "In previous times, matzas were not baked before Passover, but instead they would bake on each day of Passover bread for that day." Even today, many Yemenites prepare fresh matzas regularly throughout the holiday, preferring it warm as well as soft.
To avoid even the possibility of creating chametz on Passover, during the medieval period, Ashkenazim developed the stringent practice of baking their matza only before the onset of and never during the festival. In addition, in order to make a bread with less capacity to puff up, Ashkenazim reduced the amount of water in the dough to the bare minimum, resulting in an extraordinarily firm dough that was extremely difficult to knead and roll. Consequently, mixing the matza dough and baking the loaves shifted from a female activity to a male; women generally did continue to roll out the individual matzas. These modifications were not acceptable in many non-Ashkenazic communities.
Sephardim living in areas dominated by Ashkenazim were forced by necessity or persuaded to use hard matza. However, many have recently begun returning to the traditional soft style of matza at the Seder. Sephardic frozen soft matzas are widely available in America on the Internet. In Israel, Bukharans and other groups now sell in their markets frozen soft matza prepared before Passover. Consequently, Yemenites, many Sephardim, Italians, and various Mizrachi communities insist on retaining the traditional soft matza.
Hand Matza
By the onset of the eighteenth century, as an increasing number of Jews began living in the large urban centers of Europe, and as many became incapable of making their own matza, the concept of the commercial matza bakery emerged. These bakeries sold their wares to the masses and allowed rabbis and yeshiva students to come and make their own. Because Ashkenazim substituted the hard cracker-like matza for the original soft type, the incredibly firm dough, as well as the strenuous nature of loading and removing the loaves from commercial ovens, required more muscle power. To speed up production and avoid chametz, production lines consisting of teams became prevalent. In a process totaling no more than eighteen minu
tes, the matza dough was mixed, divided, rolled very thin, perforated all over, and baked in an extremely hot oven until dry and very crisp. In the nineteenth century, with the advent of matzas made by machines, the old-fashioned type became known as hand matzas.
Eventually, every Jewish community throughout Europe, large and small, maintained its own commercial matza bakery, many operating six days a week and commonly eighteen hours a day, starting around Hanukkah; these bakeries thus provided workers with months of temporary employment in the period leading up to Passover. A hand matza bakery is an assembly line; traditionally, the workers are efficiently separated into very distinct roles, with most of the labor being performed by men. Illustrations from the mid-1500s depict one man working the dough using a large wooden oar-like paddle, assisted by a second man pushing the dough toward the center of a small table.
Hand matza bakeries only use matza from grain guarded from the time of harvesting. Most machine matza companies use flour guarded from the time of milling, although some, especially in Israel, also only use flour from grain that was guarded from the time of harvesting.
Today, there are hand matza facilities in Israel and the New York metropolitan area. In a modern hand matza bakery, first a large, smooth metal (preferably aluminum) bowl is placed on a stand; frequently there are six bowls used in rotation for six batches in an eighteen-minute session. The task of ensuring that the bowl is immaculately clean and dry is entrusted only to extremely diligent individuals. On cue, the mehl mester ("flour master" in Yiddish), secluded in another room or a closed booth, measures the precise amount of flour, scurries to the bowl, dumps in the flour, and retreats to his isolation (or closes his window), all to ensure that no water comes in contact with himself or the flour until the desired time. The maximum amount of wheat flour for one batch of hand matza is the biblical measurement issaron; this equals 43 1/5 eggs or approximately 9 1/8 cups or 2 pounds 11 ounces.
With the flour safely in the metal bowl, the vasser- giesser (water "boy") then emerges from his own separate room or booth, carefully pours in a measured amount of cool well water (from rain or surface water, not the tap), and returns to his space. Since dough reacts best and more quickly in a warm environment, the Sages strove to keep the matza dough as cool as possible to hinder the formation of chametz. The room in which the dough is kneaded must be kept cool and the dough and its ingredients must be kept away from the ovens and direct sunlight. In case the well water or outside temperature is too warm, water used to make matza dough must be held in a vessel in a cool place overnight or for at least twelve hours; this water is called mayim shelanu (water that has stayed). Letting the water stand probably also helps to keep out sediments and minerals that could affect the dough. Most machine matza factories use water from reservoirs, not wells.