Encyclopedia of Jewish Food

by Gil Marks

  In 1948, more than 250,000 Jews lived in Morocco, most of whom were forced to flee their homeland during the following few years. The majority went to Israel, where the secular Ashkenazic authorities of the time discouraged religious and ethnic traditions and, consequently, Mimouna experienced a dramatic decline. Then following the 1967 war, various Jewish ethnic communities in Israel began to reconsider their traditions and find pride in their heritage and cultural pluralism. In 1971, a small group of politically active Moroccans saw Mimouna in particular as a valuable symbol and spearheaded festivities in Jerusalem and other areas with large Moroccan populations. North Africans responded in large numbers, as did politicians seeking their support. Mimouna celebrations in Israel became an annual event, including crowds of picnickers and performances in Sachar Park, situated near the Knesset. Mimouna festivities became increasingly popular in other Jewish communities, and more and more people took part in the evening events as well as the daytime picnics.

  Responding to the success of Mimouna, other ethnic groups developed their own communal ethnic holidays with cultural and political overtones, including the Kurdish serrana, held during the festival of Sukkot, and the Persian Ruz-e-bagh, also held on the day following Passover, in the city of Ramat Gan. Traditional ethnic foods, of course, are part of these celebrations.

  (See also Mufleta, Naa-Naa, Raricha, and Zaban)

  Mina

  Mina is a savory pie made with a matza crust and filled with meat or vegetables.

  Origin: Spain, Turkey

  Other names: Algeria: méguena; Egypt: maiena, mayena; Greece: megina; Italy: scacchi.

  Among the distinctive features of Sephardic cuisine are savory pies—notably the venerable pastel, sometimes known as pastelli. For more than a thousand years, these pies traditionally served as an appetizer and side dish on the Sabbath and festivals. During Passover, not wanting to let even a week pass without a pastel, Sephardim substituted matzot ablandadas (softened matzas), moistened with water or broth, for the pastry. Versions of pastel using matza for the crust are found in every Sephardic community. Sephardim from Turkey, the Balkans, and Rhodes, began referring to these Passover casserole pies made from matza as mina (Ladino for "mine," as in an excavation for minerals). Some even use the term for large phyllo pies.

  For the past several centuries, mina de carne (meat-filled matza pie), dense and moist, has been ubiquitous at the Sephardic Seder. It is typically served following the fish and soup, and before the main course. The meat pies are made from lamb or beef that is either ground or cut into chunks, and have a pronounced flavor of spices and herbs. The seasonings and additions (such as mashed potatoes or spinach) vary. Turkish versions tend to be less spicy than those from the Levant and North Africa. Meat pies, as well as vegetarian and dairy versions, are also enjoyed as a side dish for dinner throughout Passover. Vegetable minas, usually containing cheese, are a part of the desayuno (brunch) served Passover morning with huevos haminados (long-cooked eggs) and lemon wedges. Spring produce, most notably spinach and leeks, is popular for vegetable fillings. In the same dish, onions are sometimes prepared in several ways—for example, both caramelized and raw— to produce flavor and textural contrasts. In many Sephardic households, it is impossible to conceive of Passover without a mina.

  (See also Pastida, Pastelito, Pastilla, and Phyllo)

  Sephardic Matza Pie (Mina de Maza/Pastel de Pesach)

  6 servings as a side dish or 4 as a main course

  [DAIRY, PAREVE, or MEAT]

  Double the recipe and bake in a 13- by 9-inch baking pan.

  4 whole (6-inch square) matzas

  1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil

  3 to 4 cups Sephardic meat or vegetable pastry filling, such as cheese, leek, meat, onion, or spinach (Gomo (Sephardic Pastry Fillings))

  1 egg, lightly beaten, for brushing

  1. Soak the unbroken matzas, 1 or 2 at a time, in warm water until semisoft but not mushy, 30 to 60 seconds. Remove the matzas and place on paper towels to drain.

  2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the oil over an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan, deep-dish pie plate, or ovenproof skillet and place the pan in the oven to heat.

  3. Carefully cover the bottom and sides of the prepared pan with 2 matzas, breaking one apart to fill in the spaces. Spread with the filling, then cover with the remaining matzas. Spread the egg over the top. Alternatively, for layered mina, cover the bottom of the prepared pan with 2 matzas, spread with half of the filling, top with 1 additional matza, spread with the remaining filling, cover with the remaining 2 matzas, and spread the egg over the top.

  4. Bake until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Let stand about 5 minutes before serving. Serve warm.

  Minestra

  Minestra is a medium-thick, chunky soup with rice, pasta, or vegetable pieces.

  Origin: Italy

  Throughout much of the medieval period, meals for the masses of Italians consisted of a thick stew. When a first course was occasionally served, it was called minestra (from the Italian minestare, "to administer"), as the dishes were ministered out. Eventually Italian dining grew more diverse and that word came to mean a chunky soup, typically the first course of a modern Italian meal. Minestrina refers to a thin soup, while zuppa generally denotes a very thick soup made by adding bread or pureeing the ingredients. Thus a minestra tends to be a little more delicate and complex than a zuppa.

  Italians generally do not like their soups too hot, as the heat diminishes the flavor. Most every Italian Sabbath and festival meal commences with a soup. Artichoke soup (minestra di carciofi) is popular on Purim, making use of the new crop of artichokes, and is also served on Rosh Hashanah, utilizing the large mature ones at the end of the season. Chicken and rice soup (minestra de riso) is a traditional dish at many Italian Passover Seders.

  Mint

  Mint has been a part of Jewish cooking since biblical times. There are many mint varieties, but spearmint, which may be indigenous to Israel, with its smooth pointed leaves and sweet, mellow flavor, is the most common in the kitchen. Apple mint and pineapple mint are also treasured in cooking. Peppermint, a hybrid that originated in England, has fuzzy, slightly rounded leaves and a more intense flavor, and is preferred for drying and mint liqueurs. Mint, available fresh and dried (dried mint leaves should be gray-green, not brown, with a pronounced minty smell), can best be described as refreshing with a pungent, burning taste.

  Although in the West, mint is generally associated with lamb as well as gum and toothpaste, it plays many culinary roles in other parts of the word, such as in Balkan, Syrian, and, especially, Persian cooking. It is used in both savory and sweet dishes to complement delicate flavors and provide a contrast to fiery and piquant foods. Dried mint adds a refreshing touch to dishes, a trait appreciated in the hot climate of the Middle East. In Morocco, green mint is used to make the national beverage, naa-naa (mint tea).

  Mishloach Manot

  The Megillat Ester (Scroll of Esther), in reference to the celebration of Purim, declared: "They should make them days of feasting and gladness, of mishloach manot [sending portions] one to another, and gifts to the poor." There are four central Purim rituals: reading the Megillah, giving money to the poor, eating a seudah (feast), and mishloach manot. The obligation of mishloach manot, more commonly pronounced by Ashkenazim as shalachmones, entails sending on the day of Purim gifts of at least two different ready-to-eat foods, including beverages, to at least one person. This ritual, following the theme of Purim, is intended to demonstrate and increase love, unity, and caring among all Jews. Also, it ensures that everyone has special fare for the day, and counteracts Haman's accusations that the Jews are "a scattered and divided nation." The most common Purim foods are sweets, so distributing them is a symbolic way of wishing others a "good lot" or, in other words, a sweet future. Muslims refer to Purim as Id-al-Sukkar (the Sugar Holiday).

  Sephardim traditionally arrange the mishloach manot on fish-shaped platters, fish being the astrologi
cal symbol of the month of Adar. Among the Sephardic pastries are huevos de Haman (long-cooked eggs wrapped in pastry, also called foulares) and orejas de Haman (fried pastry in the shape of Haman's ears). Persians might offer malfuf (phyllo tubes), masafan (star-shaped baked almond paste), and sambusak (turnovers). Among Ashkenazim, shalachmones might include a bottle of wine, a kugel, fruit, candies, and various pastries, especially hamantaschen.

  Mufleta

  Mufleta is a yeast-raised pancake bread.

  Origin: Morocco

  Other names: mofleta, moufleta.

  Following the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492, those exiles that settled across the Straits of Gibraltar brought with them the Ladino language and traditional foods, among them a pancake bread called mufleta, which was related to the medieval Provençal soft griddle bread pan mouflet. The word mufleta may have derived from muffula, the Late Latin word for a fur mitten, which the bread resembled. The term mofletas became a medieval Spanish expression meaning "puffy cheeks" (referring to the trait Americans call "chubby cheeks").

  Moroccans prepare these breads, made from a basic flour and yeast dough, after sunset at the end of Passover for the holiday of Mimouna; the breads thus constitute their first chametz since the onset of the festival. After the dough is pressed into thin rounds, the loaves look remarkably like unbaked matza, but contain yeast and, therefore, rise a little and lighten as they cook. Originally, the breads were cooked on earthenware griddles or an inverted tagine, but more recently a metal skillet has become predominant. The plain pancakes are always served with butter—most Moroccans also abstain from dairy products during Passover—and honey. After eight days of matza, the hot, light, sticky breads are most welcome and are considered a true delicacy. Beghrir, a spongier, richer version, also served with melted butter and honey, is popular Moroccan breakfast fare.

  Moroccan Jews mark the end of Passover and beginning of spring with the Mimouna celebration. Family, friends, and neighbors are welcomed with lavish spreads, including spongy yeast pancake breads called mufleta.

  Beginning in 1948, most Moroccan Jews fled their homeland. Most went to Israel, where religious and cultural traditions were discouraged. As a result, Mimouna declined. Then in the late 1960s, Moroccans in Israel began to reembrace their heritage and in particular the holiday Mimouna returned to prominence in 1971 and the mufleta gained fame and popularity outside of the Moroccan community. Israeli politicians, from presidents to mayors of small cities, visit Moroccan homes on Mimouna and make sure to be photographed eating mufleta. For these officials, partaking of these breads has become a now-necessary sign of their identification with people from non-Ashkenazic backgrounds. For Moroccans, however, these honey-topped flatbreads are simply a favorite post-Passover treat and a beloved dish that characterizes their religious and culinary traditions.

  (See also Mimouna)

  Moroccan Pancake Breads (Mufleta)

  about 20 medium or 40 small breads

  [PAREVE or DAIRY]

  1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast or 1 (0.6-ounce) cake fresh yeast

  1½ cups warm water (105°F to 115°F for dry yeast; 80°F to 85°F for fresh yeast)

  1 teaspoon sugar or honey

  2 teaspoons table salt or 4 teaspoons kosher salt

  About 3¾ cups (18 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, or 2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached flour and 2 cups (12 ounces) fine semolina

  About ½ cup vegetable oil for dipping

  Melted butter for drizzling

  Honey for drizzling

  1. Dissolve the yeast in ¼ cup water. Stir in the sugar and let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture, remaining water, salt, and 2 cups flour. Gradually add enough remaining flour to make a supple dough slightly softer than regular bread dough. On a lightly floured surface, knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.

  2. Divide the dough into 20 egg-sized balls or 40 small balls (half-eggs). The traditional way is to grab the mass of dough and squeeze the desired amount between a forefinger and thumb, then twist and pinch off the protruding ball. Dip and roll the balls in the oil to coat, place on a flat surface, and let stand for 30 minutes.

  3. Heat an ungreased large cast-iron or nonstick skillet or griddle over medium heat.

  4. On an oiled flat surface and using oiled hands, flatten the balls into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. Cook the dough rounds until golden brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until golden and cooked through, about 1 minute. Cover the mufletas with a kitchen towl until serving to keep soft. Eat warm, drizzled with butter and honey, before the breads toughen.

  Muhammara

  Muhammara is a red pepper relish.

  Origin: Aleppo, Syria

  Other names: mahammara, mouhammara.

  Muhammara is popular throughout the Levant and Turkey. The name derives from the Arabic hamra (red)—the prefix mu denotes something or someone that is that color. Consequently, muhammara means "something that is red"; in terms of this dish, it refers to the hue from the dominant ingredient, roasted red peppers. The relish actually turns out a bit orange-red, so some cooks sneak in a few tablespoons of unorthodox tomato paste for a brighter red color. Roasting the peppers imparts a smoky undertone to the dish. Some cooks use imported Turkish roasted red peppers from jars, which have a slightly different flavor and shape from American varieties.

  There are variations of this appetizer favorite, but most contain walnuts and bread for thickening and flavor. A Damascus version includes tahini (sesame seed paste). The sweetness of the peppers is countered by the walnuts' bitterness and the sour-sweet taste of the pomegranate molasses. Quantities and proportions vary; some like more walnuts, others more bread crumbs. Varying amounts of heat come from red chilies. The original Syrian version calls for Aleppo pepper, which is available in specialty stores. There are also hints of cumin, garlic, and lemon juice, all flavors redolent of the region. Plenty of olive oil is necessary for the proper succulent texture. This unusual combination of ingredients, popular in Syria, Turkey, and Lebanon, produces an intriguingly pungent and exotic spread. Originally, the mixture was pounded in a mortar with a pestle; a food processor now makes the task much easier.

  Muhammara is a common sight at a mezze for the Sabbath and festivals. It is served as an appetizer with pita bread, crackers, or crudités; as a condiment accompanying roasted or grilled meat, chicken, or fish and fried eggplant slices.

  Syrian Red Pepper Relish (Muhammara)

  about 3 cups/6 to 8 servings

  [PAREVE]

  1½ cups (6 ounces) walnuts, lightly toasted, cooled, and chopped

  ½ cup fine dried bread crumbs, fine dried whole-wheat pita crumbs, or wheat cracker crumbs

  2½ pounds (about 5 large) red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, and seeded

  2 to 3 tablespoons pomegranate concentrate (hamoud er ruman or dibs ruman)

  1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice

  2 to 4 cloves garlic, minced

  1 to 3 small hot red chilies, minced (include the seeds and membranes if you prefer the heat), or ¼ to ½ teaspoon red chili flakes (preferably Aleppo pepper)

  ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cumin

  1 teaspoon sugar

  About 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt

  About ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

  In a food processor fitted with a metal blade or in a mortar, grind the nuts and bread crumbs until smooth. Add the peppers, pomegranate concentrate, lemon juice, garlic, chilies, cumin, sugar, and salt and puree. With the machine on, gradually add the oil to form a thick, creamy paste. If it is too thin, stir in a little more bread crumbs or walnuts; if too thick, add a little more oil. Cover and refrigerate overnight to allow the flavors to meld. The relish can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 3 months. Serve at room temperature.

  Mujaddara

  Mujaddara is a rice and lentil dish.

  Origin: Persia or I
ndia

  Other names: Egypt: megadara; Greece: mejedra; India: khichri; the Levant: majadarah, mejadara, mengedarrah, mujeddra; Yemen: enjadara.

  After the Persians brought rice from India to central and western Asia, people began cooking this grain with other Middle Eastern favorites, including various meats, vegetables, bulgur, noodles, and, especially, legumes, the latter providing complementary nutrition. Some of these dishes served as filling and healthy everyday fare, while others were intended only for special occasions. It is unknown whether the Persians borrowed the concept for rice with lentils from India or created it.

  Mujaddara is the most widespread and beloved rice and legume dish in the Muslim world. Its name literally means "having smallpox" in Arabic, referring to the dots of lentils in the white grain. The cookbook Kitab al-Tabikh (Book of Dishes) by Muhammad ibn al-Hasan Al-Baghdadi, written in Iraq in 1226 but based on a collection of ninth-century Persian-inspired recipes, contains the first recorded recipe for mujaddara, made with rice, lentils, and pieces of meat. It was served both for celebrations and, without the meat, as working-class meals. Since rice was generally expensive in most of the medieval Muslim world and lentils were cheap, poorer people tended to cook with a much larger proportion of legumes.

  Mujaddara can also contain chickpeas or noodles, while in a variation sometimes referred to as "poor man's mujaddara," bulgur is substituted for the rice. Iraqis make it with red lentils, cumin, and turmeric and top the servings with fried eggs. The Persian version is prepared with a crispy rice bottom. Bukharans substitute split mung beans for the lentils, a practice common in India as well. More recently, some Middle Eastern restaurants have begun serving bulgur mujaddara as a sandwich in a pita along with fried onion, tahini (sesame seed paste), lettuce, tomato, and sour pickles.