by Ruth Brandon
Society of French Soapmakers, 129
Solidarité Française, 80, 93
Sorbonne, 46, 47, 128
Soulès, Georges, 98, 100, 101, 134
Soutine, Chaim, 243
Soviet Union, 57–58, 67, 80
Nazi invasion of, 114, 159
Spain, 147, 162, 176, 180
Sperry (accountant), 54–55
Stalin, Joseph, 58, 79
Stewart, Martha, 10n
STO (Service du Travail Obligatoire), 110, 111, 113, 115, 118, 122
Sutherland, Graham, 28–29
Talmadge, Constance, 219–20
Talmud, 3
taxes, 75, 84, 103, 250, 251
Tchelitchew, Pavel, 28
Terre Francaise, La (magazine), 129, 165–69, 172
Times of London, 198–99
Titus, Edward, 14, 17–20, 23, 24, 26, 31–32, 34–37, 64, 237
divorce from Rubinstein, 138
publishing success of, 35–36
Titus, Horace, 23–24, 31, 148, 237, 238
Titus, Roy, 23–24, 31, 147, 148, 237
Tondu, André, 183, 187, 189
Turati, Filippo, 95
Ulla (Swedish masseuse), 25–26
UMP party, 249
Union de Défense Commerçants et Artisans, 251
Union of Orthodox Jewish Congregations, 182
utopianism, 65–77, 80
Valaze (face cream), 12–13
Valentine paint factory, 44, 58, 59, 91, 113, 115
Vanity Fair, 27, 34, 224
Veil, Jean, 190
Verne, Jules, 66
Vichy regime, 91, 96, 111n, 132, 136, 166n, 175
Jewish deportations and, 117, 118, 119–21
Victorian Britain, 198–99, 200, 248
Vie et morts de Jean Moulin (Péan), 134
Vodianova, Natalia, 245n
Vogue, 1, 27, 28, 29, 221–22
Vogue, British, 105–6
von Furstenberg, Diane, 241, 245n
Voronoff, Serge, 32–33
Votre Beauté (Schueller magazine), 44, 83, 104
editorial policy of, 71–72
Mitterrand column for, 136–37, 168n
Occupation and, 106–9
wage theories, 68–70, 73, 77, 103, 123
Waitzfelder, Monica, 187–90, 191
Walker, Liz, 202, 208
Walker, Madam C. J., 216
Wells, H. G., 66, 80, 81, 86
Winslet, Kate, 224
Wintour, Anna, 221–22
Wisner, M., 59
Woman’s Home Companion, 194n
women, 196–200
bobbed hair and, 60–61
employment of, 9, 104, 146, 210
empowerment of, 3, 24, 26, 225, 248, 253
as entrepreneurs, 3, 7–11, 18–20, 25, 196–97, 216, 227
independence symbols, 26, 61
Nazis and, 102, 106
suffrage marches, 26, 201
thinness and fitness of, 72
traditional expectations for, 5–6, 20, 74–75, 76, 117, 126, 199, 210, 226, 229
See also beauty, ideals of; cosmetics; face cream
World War I, 32, 56–57, 64, 76, 77, 85, 141, 204
Schueller’s service in, 49, 55–56, 67
World War II, 64, 83, 100, 117, 136, 140–42, 204
cosmetics and toiletries and, 104–5, 228–29
French vulnerability and, 79, 84–85, 128, 129
German defeats and, 114, 132–33, 159
See also collaboration; Occupation
xenophobia, 88–89
Yellow Book (magazine), 21–22
Yiddish, 5, 6, 20, 141
Youth Code skin cream, 202
YouTube, 224
Zaoui, Michel, 190
Zviak, Charles, 150
About the Author
RUTH BRANDON is a cultural historian and biographer. She has also written five detective stories and two literary novels. Brandon lives in London with her husband, art historian Philip Steadman.
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Also by Ruth Brandon
Fiction
Caravaggio’s Angel
The Uncertainty Principle
Tickling the Dragon
Mind Out
The Gorgon’s Smile
Out of Body, Out of Mind
Left, Right and Centre
Nonfiction
Other People’s Daughters: The Life and Times of the Governess
People’s Chef: Alexis Soyer, a Life in Seven Courses
Automobile: How the Car Changed Life
Surreal Lives: The Surrealists, 1917–1945
The Life and Many Deaths of Harry Houdini
Being Divine: A Biography of Sarah Bernhardt
The New Women and the Old Men: Love, Sex and the Woman Question
The Burning Question: The Anti-nuclear Movement since 1945
Spiritualists: Passion for the Occult in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries
The Dollar Princesses: Sagas of Upward Nobility, 1870–1914
Singer and the Sewing Machine: A Capitalist Romance
Credits
Jacket photograph © Getty Images
Jacket design by Archie Ferguson
Copyright
UGLY BEAUTY. Copyright © 2011 by Ruth Brandon. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
EPub Edition February 2011 ISBN: 9780062041562
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