by Ruth Brandon
See also Nazis; Occupation
Gesparal, 151–52
Gillies, Sir Harold, 204
Giraud, Henri, 159, 296
Glancey, Lucy, 207, 208–9, 212
Goebbels, Joseph, 106
Goguel, Fabrice, 249–50
Gourielli-Tchkonia, Artchil, 138–39, 140, 237, 238
Grayban (hair dye), 211
Grecian 2000 (hair dye), 229
Greenberg, Michael, 13n
Greg, William Rathbone, 3
Guerlain, M., 116
Guillemot et Delamotte, 87
Haarfarben un Parfümerien, 183–84, 187, 189
hairdressers, 49–51, 106, 108
commercial salons and, 54, 61
hair dye, 54, 61–63, 210–11
chemistry of, 65–66
first safe, 40, 42, 48–51
justifications for, 107–8, 210
men and, 84, 229
warning/antidote, 62–63
hairstyles, 40, 53–54, 60–62
mousse and, 150
straightening products, 216
Harispe, Michel, 162
“Heaven Sent” (fragance), 60
Helena Rubinstein, Inc.
assets of, 146
Colgate-Palmolive purchase of, 148–49
Israeli subsidiary of, 152, 153, 155
Lehman Brothers purchase/Rubinstein buyback of, 34–37, 64, 138
L’Oreal takeover of, xii, 40, 146–55, 162–63, 172, 174, 180, 181–83, 193
men’s toiletries and, 104–5
private ownership of, 147–48
Rubinstein’s death and, 146–48
sales staff of, 30–31
World War II profits of, 104–5
Hemingway, Ernest, 36
“Herbal Tissue” cream, 202
Hirschberg, Pauline, 16
Hirschfeld, Magnus, 73
Hitler, Adolf, 103, 106, 114, 115, 123, 128
admirers of, 78–79, 81, 84, 87
Hollay, Rosa, 23, 25, 26, 28, 33, 64
hooks, bell, 216–17
Hopkins, Ruth, 148
hormone treatment, 73
Horowitz, Vladimir, 241
House of Gourielli, 104
Huffner, Mlle., 119
Huntington, Collis P., 33
“Imédia” (hair dye), 62
“Inecto” (hair dye), 210–11
Interbeauty, 153, 182
Israel, State of, 169
Frydman and, 154, 156
Rubinstein and, 141–42, 152, 153, 155, 162–63, 181, 182
See also Arab boycott
Jeunes Patriotes, 93
Jeunesse française, Une (Péan), 165
Jews, 17, 95, 197, 198
French Occupation and, 117, 118–21, 134n, 155, 158–59, 163, 179, 181
German restitution payments to, 188
Nazi property appropriation and, 184, 186–91
Rubinstein’s background and, xii, 4–5, 139–42, 180, 181, 234
See also anti-Semitism
Joan of Arc, 236
John Lewis Partnership, 70n
Joliot-Curie, Frédéric, 46, 47, 48, 115, 116–18
Joseph, Jacques, 204
JRSO (Jewish Restitution Successor Organization), 186, 187, 188, 189
KAO (Japanese company), 149
Karlsruhe, 183–84, 186, 188, 190
Kémoularia, Claude de, 153
Kiki’s Memoirs (book), 36
Klarsfeld, Serge, 163, 168
Koestler, Arthur, 185n
Kogan, M., 119
Kolin, Oskar, 147, 148
Korman, Charles, 189, 190
Krakow, 4, 5, 15–16, 17, 141
Krummacher, Dr., 102
Lady Chatterley’s Lover (Lawrence), 35–36
Lamy family, 162
Lang, Fritz, 66
Lanvin, Jeanne, 138
L’Arcouest (Breton village), 47–48, 84, 115, 131, 132
Lauder, Estée, 8, 140, 227
Laurencie, General de la, 99
Laurencin, Marie, 28
L’Auréole, 40, 53
Lawrence, D. H., 35–36
Layani, Dr., 117
Lazareff, Pierre and Hélène, 241
lead poisoning, 216
“Lebensborn” project, 106
Légion d’Honneur, 49, 56, 252
Lehman Brothers, 34–37, 64, 138, 146
Leibovitz, Annie, 222
Lemaigre-Dubreuil, Jacques, 94
Le Pen, Jean-Marie, 132n
Leverson, Rachel (Madame Rachel), 197–98, 201
Levy, Professor, 118
Lewis, John Spedan, 70n
Life (magazine), 8
Ligue Contre Antisémitisme, 121, 158–59, 181
lipstick, 22, 32, 41, 106
symbolism of, 26, 35, 61, 104, 105, 201, 225
“lipstick effect,” 35
List, Emmy, 16, 23
London, 18–25, 26, 28
L’Oréal, xi, 52, 59, 67, 130–32, 146–50, 207
advertising and, 53, 60, 61–62, 107–8, 194, 210, 217, 224, 229
Arab blacklisting of, 151–56, 174, 180–81, 182
Bettencourt resignation from, 172
Bettencourt-Schueller and, 172, 228, 231, 234, 252
financial success of, 62, 63, 84, 153–54, 190
founding of, 40, 50–51
German subsidiary of, 181–91
growth of, 54–55, 56, 61–62
hair dye and, 40, 42, 48–49, 61–63, 65–66
Helena Rubinstein takeover by, xii, 40, 146–51
Meyers and, 172, 247
Mitterrand and, 136–37
multinational expansion of, 150–51, 193–94, 227–28
Nazi past and, 109–15, 118–19, 121, 153–91, 192, 250, 253
Nestlé and, 152, 247
Owen-Jones as CEO of, 149–50, 166, 181–82
political scandal and, 250–51
private ownership of, 75
revenues of, 194
rue Royale headquarters of, 63, 112
Schueller’s successor and, 126, 138
settlement with U.S. government of, 182
Waitzfelder case against 6, 189–90
women’s role at, 228
World War II profits of, 90
L’Oréal Blanc, 61–62
Lumière, Auguste, 57
LVF (Légion de Volontaires Françaises), 159, 160
Lycée Condorcet, 45, 57
Lyon University, 118
Macdonald, Helen, 10
Madoff, Bernie, 232
Maginot Line, 84–85
Magnon de la Villehuchet, René-Thierry, 232
Maistre, Patrice de, 249–50, 252, 253
makeup. See cosmetics; lipstick
Mandel, Georges, 157, 179, 181
Mangeot, Georges, 111
Marnais, Frédérick (Mitterrand pseud.), 136–37
Massé, Mme., 101
Maurras, Charles, 92
Mein Kampf (Hitler), 78–79
Meir, Golda, 141–42, 169
Meisel, Steven, 222
Melbourne, 2, 9, 10–15, 18
men
cosmetic enhancement and, 207, 211–12, 220–21, 228–29
as cosmetic surgeons, 225–26, 228
toiletries for, 104–5
Mendeleyev periodic table, 46
Mendès-France, Pierre, 164, 169
Meyer, M., 118–19
Meyers, Jean-Pierre, 172, 247
Michelin, Pierre, 94, 95
Milice, 111n, 166n
Mitterrand, Danielle, 136, 137
Mitterrand, François, 128, 161, 241
politics and, 151, 153, 164, 165, 174–77
Votre Beauté column and, 136–37, 168n
World War II and, 129, 135, 136, 170
Mitterrand, Marie-Josephine, 175
Mitterrand, Robert, 175
monkey-gland extracts, 32–33
Monsavon, 44, 59–60, 107, 111, 112
Dalle employment by, 129–31
World War II profits of, 90
Morris, William, 74
Moulin, Jean, 134, 170
Mouvements Unis de la Résistance, 121
MSR (Mouvement Sociale Révolutionnaire), 92, 95–102, 133–34, 158–59, 161, 175, 179
Jewish property takeover by, 120–21, 155
Schueller link with, 97–100, 101–2, 112, 114, 121, 122, 133
Mussolini, Benito, 79, 95, 128
Nadelman, Elie, 1
National Council of Liberation, 168
Natural Sea Beauty, 182
Navachine, Dmitri, 95, 134
Nazi Propagandastaffel, 165
Nazis, 114, 128, 141, 159, 178
feminine beauty ideal of, 102, 106
MSN and, 98
utopians and, 80, 86, 87, 103
See also anti-Semitism; collaboration; Occupation
Neochrome, 91
Nestlé, 149, 151–52, 247
New Yorker, 33, 222–23
Nicholls, Jay, 208, 223
Noailles, Marie-Laure de, 242, 243
Occupation, xii, 85–123
French businesses and, 90–92, 106–9
French right-wing and, 92, 96–100, 165–66, 176
Jewish plight under, 117–21, 134n, 155, 158–59, 163, 179, 185
reactions to, 96–97, 113–14
Relève and, 110–11, 113, 115, 118, 122
Schueller broadcasts/articles and, 102–4, 122, 123
See also collaboration; Resistance; Vichy regime
O’Higgins, Patrick, 7, 25, 35, 64, 141, 196
Rubinstein relationship with, 237–40, 241
104 Network, 127, 134–35, 136, 138, 164, 175
Operation Rocher, 181
Oradour-sur-Glâne massacre (1944), 111
OSARN. See Cagoule, La
OSS, 169, 170
Ovid, 2
Owen-Jones, Lindsay, 149–50, 156, 164, 172, 176, 177, 193, 228, 245
L’Oréal scandals and, 181–82, 189–91, 192
paint manufacture, 58, 91
Palmolive soap, 59
Paravision, 154–55, 156
Paris, 16–28, 31–32, 39
Passé composé, Le (Banier), 242–43
Paul, Saint, 2–3, 199
Pays Libre (journal), 134
Péan, Pierre, 134, 165
Pearl Harbor attack, 114
permanent wave, 62
Pétain, Marshal Henri, 85, 96, 99, 114, 117, 119, 132, 136, 172, 175
petrodollars, 151
Peugeot, 58
Pharmacie Centrale de France, 46–47, 48, 50
photography
Banier and, 240, 241, 242, 245n
beauty industry and, 217–20, 223, 224
celluloid film stock and, 58
Photoshop, 222–25
Picabia, Francis, 31–32
Picasso, Pablo, 25, 28, 245
Pinto, Freida, 217, 224
plastics, 57, 59
plastic surgery. See cosmetic surgery
Plavic Film, 57
Plenitude antiwrinkle cream, 182
Poland, 4–5, 15–16
Polignac, Marie-Blanche de, 138
Polish Red Cross, 141
Pompidou, Georges, 164–65, 195
Pond’s, 41, 219
Pope, Alexander, 2
Popular Front, 93
postiche, 53–54
Potton, Ariste, 86
Poujade, Pierre, 132n, 251
powder, 22, 41
Procasa, 147, 162
Propper, Gad, 163
Protect and Perfect Serum, 202, 229
Proust, Marcel, 25
racism, 80–81, 216–17, 224. See also anti-Semitism
radio advertising, 58–59, 60
Radio Cité, 58, 60
Ranelagh, Lord, 197–98
Ray, Man, 36
Reagan, Ronald, 229
recessions. See economic downturns
reconstructive surgery, 204
Relève. See STO
Renault (co.), 58
Renault, Louis, 94
Resistance, 85, 96, 114–15, 118, 121–22, 134–37, 164
former collaborators and, 123, 159, 160–61, 165, 168, 169, 170, 174, 175, 177
French Communists and, 115, 121
Frydman and, 154, 155–56
Resistance Medal, 164, 169, 170
retinol, 202–3
Revlon, 8, 146, 227
Révolution de l’économie, La (Schueller), 76n, 87, 90, 106, 117, 122, 123, 126
Révolution Nationale (RNP magazine), 101, 103, 115
Revson, Charles, 8, 146
Rio de Janeiro, 187–88
Ripolin paints, 94
RNP (Rassemblement Nationale Populaire), 100–101, 115, 122
Rocque, Colonel de la, 92, 93
Roddick, Anita, 10n
Roederer, Madame, 116
Rohmer, Eric, 241
Roosevelt, Franklin D., 79, 104
Rosenfelder, Edith, 185, 186, 187–90, 191, 194
Rosenfelder, Fritz, 184–87
Rosenfelder, Karl, 186, 187, 188
Rosselli, Carlo and Nello, 95, 175
Rothschild, Henri de, 59, 74
Rothschild, Philippe de, 59
rouge, 22
Roux, Annette, 228
Rubinstein, Artur, 220
Rubinstein, Helena, xi, 1–37
advertising and, 19, 28, 34, 40, 218, 220
age of, 3, 16, 28, 144
American salons of, 1, 25, 33–34, 140
art and, 25, 28–29, 235
basis of success of, 12–14, 40–42, 196–97
belief in value of work of, 231, 234
business reputation of, 33, 248
business sale and buyback by, 34–35, 36–37
chaotic style of, 63–64
Corrèze and, 180
cosmetics use and, 200, 221, 225, 229, 253
death of, 144, 145, 147, 148, 231
divorce of, 138
early life and career of, 2, 4–18, 24–25
family business and, 126, 146–47, 148, 232
first marriage of, 19–21, 64 (see also Titus, Edward)
first salons of, 26–28, 30–31, 39
hairstyle trademark of, 24
jewels of, 21, 235
Jewish background of, xii, 4, 139–42, 180, 181
London and, 21–23, 25, 26, 28
marketing skills of, 30–31, 60, 196
O’Higgins friendship with, 237–40, 241
personal appearance of, 7, 20, 24, 28–29
personal traits of, 6–7, 15, 28, 34, 64, 236, 237, 248
photographic image of, 218–19, 220
robbery of, 144–45
Schueller compared with, xi–xii, 40, 42, 63–64, 124, 195–96, 201, 253
second marriage of, 138–39, 237
sisters of, 17, 24, 25, 26, 27–28, 31, 35, 140, 141
sons of, 23–24, 31, 147, 148, 237
travel and, 15–16, 19, 24, 64, 145, 203
wealth of, 12–13, 18, 23, 36, 145–46, 231, 236
will and estate of, 146
, 239–40
World War II and, 64, 104–5, 140–42, 228–29
See also Helena Rubinstein, Inc.
Rubinstein, Mala (great-niece), 147, 148
Rubinstein, Naftali Herzl (father), 4, 64, 234
Ruhlmann (furniture designer), 74
Russia. See Soviet Union
Sachs, Maurice, 244
Sadoul, Jacques, 46–47, 57–58, 67, 121
Salzmann, Charles, 175
Sanofi-Aventis, 207
Sarkozy, Nicolas, 245, 249
Scapini, Georges, 116–17
Schatzkes, M., 119
Schmilinsky, Dr., 91–92
Scholt-Klink, Gertrud, 106
Schueller, Amélie (mother), 43, 45, 49
Schueller, Annie (second wife), 117–18, 135
Schueller, Berthe (first wife), 51, 55, 56, 233–34
death of, 117, 232–33
Schueller, Charles (father), 43, 45
Schueller, Eugène, xi–xii, 19–20, 39–81, 83–138
advertising jingles and, 58–59, 60
authoritarianism of, 79–80, 86, 89, 251
background and early life of, 42–43, 44–47, 110
basis of success of, 42, 90–92, 195–96
Bettencourt as son-in-law of, 132, 135
business successor of, 126–28, 130–32
chemistry background of, 40, 42, 46–47, 65
collaboration trials of (see under collaboration)
daily routine of, 43–44, 49, 52
daughter of (see Bettencourt-Schueller, Liliane)
death of, 132
economic-social theories of, 65–78, 86, 89–90, 98–100, 103, 194, 253
education and, 43, 45, 46, 66–68, 196
first business ventures of, 44, 56–63, 65
Joliot-Curie friendship and, 46, 47, 115, 116–18
lifestyle of, 52–55, 84, 233
marriages of, 51, 117, 233–34
personal traits of, 51, 65, 233
physical appearance of, 53, 83–84
politics of, 77–80, 86–87, 89, 92–100, 102, 112, 132n, 253
risk-taking and, 75, 126, 253
Rubinstein compared with, xi–xii, 40, 42, 63–64, 124, 195–96, 201
view of women of, 48, 72–76, 106–8, 117, 126, 229, 247–48, 252–53
World War I service of, 49, 55–56, 67
See also L’Oréal
Schueller et Sperry, 54–55
Seemuller, John, 146, 147
Seignobos, Charles, 47
self-confidence, 200, 209, 212, 213–15, 218, 224, 248
September Issue, The (film), 221–22
Servant, Guy, 160
Servant, Patrice, 160
Service du Travail Obligatoire. See STO
Shepherd, Luke, 206, 209
Shoop, Max, 170
Silberfield, Helena, 31
Sitwell, Edith, 236
Skin Deep (Consumer Research), 41–42, 48, 62, 194n, 202, 210
soap, 44, 59–60, 90, 107, 129, 130 See also Monsavon
