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Ugly Beauty

Page 30

by Ruth Brandon


  Society of French Soapmakers, 129

  Solidarité Française, 80, 93

  Sorbonne, 46, 47, 128

  Soulès, Georges, 98, 100, 101, 134

  Soutine, Chaim, 243

  Soviet Union, 57–58, 67, 80

  Nazi invasion of, 114, 159

  Spain, 147, 162, 176, 180

  Sperry (accountant), 54–55

  Stalin, Joseph, 58, 79

  Stewart, Martha, 10n

  STO (Service du Travail Obligatoire), 110, 111, 113, 115, 118, 122

  Sutherland, Graham, 28–29

  Talmadge, Constance, 219–20

  Talmud, 3

  taxes, 75, 84, 103, 250, 251

  Tchelitchew, Pavel, 28

  Terre Francaise, La (magazine), 129, 165–69, 172

  Times of London, 198–99

  Titus, Edward, 14, 17–20, 23, 24, 26, 31–32, 34–37, 64, 237

  divorce from Rubinstein, 138

  publishing success of, 35–36

  Titus, Horace, 23–24, 31, 148, 237, 238

  Titus, Roy, 23–24, 31, 147, 148, 237

  Tondu, André, 183, 187, 189

  Turati, Filippo, 95

  Ulla (Swedish masseuse), 25–26

  UMP party, 249

  Union de Défense Commerçants et Artisans, 251

  Union of Orthodox Jewish Congregations, 182

  utopianism, 65–77, 80

  Valaze (face cream), 12–13

  Valentine paint factory, 44, 58, 59, 91, 113, 115

  Vanity Fair, 27, 34, 224

  Veil, Jean, 190

  Verne, Jules, 66

  Vichy regime, 91, 96, 111n, 132, 136, 166n, 175

  Jewish deportations and, 117, 118, 119–21

  Victorian Britain, 198–99, 200, 248

  Vie et morts de Jean Moulin (Péan), 134

  Vodianova, Natalia, 245n

  Vogue, 1, 27, 28, 29, 221–22

  Vogue, British, 105–6

  von Furstenberg, Diane, 241, 245n

  Voronoff, Serge, 32–33

  Votre Beauté (Schueller magazine), 44, 83, 104

  editorial policy of, 71–72

  Mitterrand column for, 136–37, 168n

  Occupation and, 106–9

  wage theories, 68–70, 73, 77, 103, 123

  Waitzfelder, Monica, 187–90, 191

  Walker, Liz, 202, 208

  Walker, Madam C. J., 216

  Wells, H. G., 66, 80, 81, 86

  Winslet, Kate, 224

  Wintour, Anna, 221–22

  Wisner, M., 59

  Woman’s Home Companion, 194n

  women, 196–200

  bobbed hair and, 60–61

  employment of, 9, 104, 146, 210

  empowerment of, 3, 24, 26, 225, 248, 253

  as entrepreneurs, 3, 7–11, 18–20, 25, 196–97, 216, 227

  independence symbols, 26, 61

  Nazis and, 102, 106

  suffrage marches, 26, 201

  thinness and fitness of, 72

  traditional expectations for, 5–6, 20, 74–75, 76, 117, 126, 199, 210, 226, 229

  See also beauty, ideals of; cosmetics; face cream

  World War I, 32, 56–57, 64, 76, 77, 85, 141, 204

  Schueller’s service in, 49, 55–56, 67

  World War II, 64, 83, 100, 117, 136, 140–42, 204

  cosmetics and toiletries and, 104–5, 228–29

  French vulnerability and, 79, 84–85, 128, 129

  German defeats and, 114, 132–33, 159

  See also collaboration; Occupation

  xenophobia, 88–89

  Yellow Book (magazine), 21–22

  Yiddish, 5, 6, 20, 141

  Youth Code skin cream, 202

  YouTube, 224

  Zaoui, Michel, 190

  Zviak, Charles, 150

  About the Author

  RUTH BRANDON is a cultural historian and biographer. She has also written five detective stories and two literary novels. Brandon lives in London with her husband, art historian Philip Steadman.

  Visit www.AuthorTracker.com for exclusive information on your favorite HarperCollins author.

  Also by Ruth Brandon

  Fiction

  Caravaggio’s Angel

  The Uncertainty Principle

  Tickling the Dragon

  Mind Out

  The Gorgon’s Smile

  Out of Body, Out of Mind

  Left, Right and Centre

  Nonfiction

  Other People’s Daughters: The Life and Times of the Governess

  People’s Chef: Alexis Soyer, a Life in Seven Courses

  Automobile: How the Car Changed Life

  Surreal Lives: The Surrealists, 1917–1945

  The Life and Many Deaths of Harry Houdini

  Being Divine: A Biography of Sarah Bernhardt

  The New Women and the Old Men: Love, Sex and the Woman Question

  The Burning Question: The Anti-nuclear Movement since 1945

  Spiritualists: Passion for the Occult in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries

  The Dollar Princesses: Sagas of Upward Nobility, 1870–1914

  Singer and the Sewing Machine: A Capitalist Romance

  Credits

  Jacket photograph © Getty Images

  Jacket design by Archie Ferguson

  Copyright

  UGLY BEAUTY. Copyright © 2011 by Ruth Brandon. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

  EPub Edition February 2011 ISBN: 9780062041562

  10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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