The Antarctic Book of Cooking and Cleaning: A Polar Journey
Page 1
DEDICATION
For Fin, Sasha and Veronica
In memory of
Vladimir Kruzhkov (Volodya Driver)
Vadim Mihailov
Sergey Potapov
CONTENTS
DEDICATION
PREFACE
MAGNETISM
INTRODUCTION
CASTING OFF
CHAPTER 1
EXPECTATION
CHAPTER 2
Maxim’s Moonshine
Sea Cabbage (Laminaria) Salad
Caipirinha
Pisco Sour
Cook’s Bread
HOME
CHAPTER 3
Pitch-and-Toss Cookery
Honey Oatmeal Bread (Wendy Bread)
Roasted Garlic in Herbed Oil
Mulled Wine
Rosemary Maple Borscht
Cinnamon Buns
Fruit Nut Rings
SIXTEEN GRANDFATHERS
CHAPTER 4
Spiced Tea (Russian Tea)
Cheese Fondue
Fisherman’s Fish
Roasted Beet Salad (Russian Vinaigrette)
King George Island Salad (Vinaigrette)
White Bean and Roasted Garlic Pâté
White Bean and Roasted Garlic Soup
NAVIGATION
CHAPTER 5
Stoney Bay Chowder
All-In Pizza
Caramelized Onions
Rosemary-Crusted Lamb Ribs
Red Cabbage Confit
Baked Stuffed Onions
Custard with Fruit Compote
WOMEN’S SUMMER
CHAPTER 6
Chocolate Chip Cookies
Asparagus Pâté
Minestrone Soup
Pollo Relleno
Cranberry Fool
Chocolate Cake Two Ways
GETTING THE COLOURS DOWN
CHAPTER 7
Chicken Teriyaki Bouchées
Zucchini Toasts with Tapenade
Lena’s Cabbage Pie
Chocolate and Cream
Great Wall Dumplings (Jiaozi)
Ukrainian Cabbage Rolls
Canada House Cazuela
Almond Biscotti with Anise Seed
WINTER IS COMING
CHAPTER 8
Roasted Pepper Goulash with Smoked Paprika
Roast Leg of Pork
Frozen Chocolate Cream
AFTERWORD
RECIPE INDEX
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
BIBLIOGRAPHY
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
CREDITS
COPYRIGHT
ABOUT THE PUBLISHER
Wendy’s provisioning notes, 1995
{Sandy Nicholson}
PREFACE
Carol Devine & Wendy Trusler
The first thing that comes to mind about Antarctica is not likely food. But if you are going to spend any time there, it should be the second.
In 1996, we led several volunteer groups to Bellingshausen, a Russian research station in Antarctica, for an environmental project organized in collaboration with the Russian Antarctic Expedition. A total of fifty-four people from five countries paid to pick up twenty-eight years of garbage during their holiday on a continent uniquely devoted to peace and science.
The Antarctic Book of Cooking and Cleaning is a journey through that austral summer—the story of a Russian-Canadian cleanup project on a small island 120 kilometres off the Antarctic Coast (62°02's 58°21'w). It is also a look at the challenges of cooking in a makeshift kitchen during the long, white nights at the bottom of the world.
The book unfolds in the style of Antarctic publications such as Sir Ernest Shackelton’s handmade Aurora Australis—through provision lists, menu plans, journals and letters. Woven throughout are historic and contemporary images, food and science notes as well as vignettes from Antarctica.
Early explorers and scientists endured unimaginable conditions, surviving on penguin meat and even dog paw stew. The Antarctic Book of Cooking and Cleaning is an ode to them, to contemporary explorers and scientists and to the people we met who captured our hearts.
It has been a curious and beguiling exercise for us to reflect on our experiences in a male-dominated fish bowl.
Whenever adventure beckons an open mind and a full stomach are necessities.
MAGNETISM
{Sandy Nicholson}
Frank Hurley photographing under the bows of the Endurance, 1915. Glass Paget plate photo transparency. Before abandoning the ship, Shackleton and Hurley chose 120 glass plates to keep, including this rare colour one. They smashed 400 plates; Shackleton feared Hurley would endanger himself by even thinking of returning for them.
{Hurley photographing under the bows of the “Endurance” / Call no. ON 26/2}
“Yet as those noble peaks faded away in the mist, I could scarce express feelings of sadness to leave the land that has rained on us its bounty and been our salvation.”
—Frank Hurley, 1885–1962
INTRODUCTION
Carol
I always wanted to go to Antarctica without knowing why. I grew up in the subarctic and often went to school with icicles in my hair. I used to press one hand on the top of the globe and with the other spin it so quickly that the water and continents blurred together. What was that odd-shaped white continent down there on the bottom? Ptolemy mapped Antarctica in antiquity before anyone even knew it existed. There was only intuition that a continent must exist at the bottom of the world counterbalancing the land masses at the top. Humans have inhabited Antarctica only in the last 100 years.
Antarctica occupies a tenth of the earth’s surface. Scientists tell us that the icy continent most resembles the moon of Jupiter: Europa—also thought to hold a liquid ocean beneath its ice. None of us are going to Europa, and only a tiny sliver of the human population will ever be lucky enough to visit Antarctica. I was one of the fortunate few. My first moments on the continent felt as if I had reached both the moon and a kind of paradise amidst those baby blue icebergs. It was a place where each footprint felt momentous and each interaction vividly important.
Antarctica holds the majority of the world’s ice and fresh water—it is critically important to the planet and is a mirror reflecting what we humans mean for the Earth. Nature’s laboratory in the south reveals things like a record of the earth's climate held in its 420,000-year-old ice core. What happens in Antarctica doesn’t stay in Antarctica and vice versa. The Antarctic Peninsula and the surrounding oceans have warmed faster than anywhere else in the Southern Hemisphere. It is evident, in the first moments one spends here, that the continent bears devastating marks of human activity.
As a nascent humanitarian, I wanted to do something previously untried—to set up a project that would give Antarctic visitors an opportunity to help conserve the environment in that wild, remote place.
I approached Sam Blyth who ran a company that took adventurers to the Antarctic and together we created the VIEW Foundation—Volunteer International Environmental Work. Pat Shaw, Vice-President of the polar travel side of Sam’s company, Marine Expeditions International (MEI), suggested a VIEW project in Antarctica and helped lay the groundwork.
For starters, we needed a partner in Antarctica. I wrote letters to the appropriate authorities in the U.K., Russia, Poland and Australia asking if they would be interested in having international volunteers assist with conservation efforts at their Antarctic stations.
On June 16, 1994, I received a handwritten letter from the Polish Academy of Sciences in Warsaw. At the Henryk Arctowski station in the Sout
h Shetland Islands, the scientists were already starting to consolidate debris that had accumulated at its base since opening in 1977. This first collaborative environmental initiative would become Project Antarctica.
MEN WANTED
for hazardous journey, small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful, honor and recognition in case of success.
Ernest Shackleton 4 Burlington st.
Fabled ad in London newspaper circa 1914 for the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, 1914–1916
TRAVEL ADVISORY: ANTARCTICA; SOUTH POLE CLEANUP
The New York Times Archives
January 29, 1995
Sightseeing is, of course, allowed, but travelers who sign on for a 12-day trip to Antarctica will spend much of their time cleaning up a research station.
Organized by VIEW, a Canadian conservation group, the trip, from March 10 to 21, entails four days of not-too-hard labor, like putting light debris into garbage bags, at the Polish Research Station.
From Buenos Aires, travelers fly to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, then board the Akademik Sergey Vavilov, a 79-passenger Russian research vessel, for Antarctica.
The trip—$1,800 a person plus $1,102 round-trip air fare from New York to Buenos Aires—includes lectures and a cocktail party. Information: (416) 964-1914.
Next we needed volunteers able and willing to pick up garbage and cover their own travel expenses. I faxed a press release to major newspapers—The New York Times, The Toronto Sun, The Boston Globe, the Arizona Daily Star—and others picked it up. The phone rang and we soon had our numbers: fifty-seven people, including teachers, retirees, a judge, a music industry executive, two writers, a Dutch travel agent and an amateur cartoonist.
Problems and bad weather beleaguered our pilot expedition. A delayed departure from Argentina and landing late at Arctowski shortened our project, but we nonetheless managed to help collect and remove 16 tonnes of debris and scientific equipment back to Poland.
This initial success motivated me to set up another expedition, Project Antarctica II, this time over one summer and with volunteers living at a base. I was nervous about the logistics and recruitment for a bigger cleanup but wanted to persevere and see how the concept could develop.
The Russian Antarctic Expedition (RAE) offered to host VIEW volunteers. I flew to Saint Petersburg to negotiate the terms of our collaboration. I met with Dr. Valery Lukin, the director, and Victor Pomelov, the environment manager, in the map-filled room at the Arctic and Antarctic Research Institute. I’m sure they expected someone older and more experienced, but they agreed to the cleanup at Bellingshausen. The RAE was likely keen to generate some new money for their Antarctic program by charging a reasonable fee to host our volunteers. Lena Nikolaeva, their colleague, translated and I suspected helped close the deal. She winked at me as I left.
She would be seconded to act as liaison officer. This delighted me; Lena had fantastic energy and significant Antarctic experience.
One condition was that we had to bring our own cook. I was daunted. I had no idea where I was going to find someone to spend three months hustling meals at a dilapidated Russian base in the Antarctic. A friend recommended Wendy Trusler, renowned for her cooking at tree-planting camps across the Canadian north.
I called Wendy immediately and asked if she wanted to interview for the job. She said yes and I soon met her: there she was looking (very unconsciously) like Amelia Earhart.
A few days later I savoured her honey oatmeal bread and held the beautiful hand-carved wood burls she showed at her solo art exhibition. I offered Wendy the job, scoring not only a cook but also a respected visual artist. We were a go . . . almost. I needed a program manager and hired a Scot, Antarctic veteran Sean Stephen. I also hired American biologist Dr. John Croom to round out our crew. And we had the wonderful Lena as a cultural bridge. Each had an essential role, but the egg in the cake was Wendy.
Volunteers were signing up; our numbers for Project Antarctica II were high enough to be financially viable: fifty-four. We were all conscious of the scrutiny we could receive by having tourists stay at research stations. It was my job to ensure that we didn’t interrupt scientific work and that we left the physical environment looking better than we found it.
Over the next three months a tourist ship would do scheduled drop-offs of small groups of volunteers at Bellingshausen for four-to-five day stints of garbage collection. The VIEW Foundation team was constant: Wendy, Lena and Sean, and for the earlier period, John and I.
Project Antarctica, VIEW Foundation pilot cleanup at Henryk Arctowski (Poland) station, Carol Devine in centre, 1995
{Carol Devine}
Arctowski station, 1995
Bellingshausen is part of the South Shetland Islands group off the Antarctic Peninsula. Built in 1968, Bellingshausen station became a major fuel depot for the Soviet Antarctic fishing fleet. When we arrived, the base was a cluster of paint-chipped prefab buildings set amid a scattering of derelict machinery.
Several nations have research stations on this 90-percent glaciated island, including Russia, Chile, Uruguay, China, Poland, Argentina, Peru, Korea and Brazil. Evidence shows glaciers there and elsewhere are rapidly retreating. Every scientific station in Antarctica faced the problem of garbage—and they were all under pressure to comply with the Madrid Protocol on Environmental Protection (1991) and meet its stringent rules, including waste disposal, phasing out open incineration, and sewage treatment for bases with more than 30 summer staff.
We discussed garbage with the Russians and volunteers while picking it up by hand in sleet and intermittent sunshine. How do you start to clean up some 28 years worth of accumulated rubbish and encourage long-term commitment to a cleanup? We knew environmental protection depended on politics, leadership and commitment.
Governments and private businesses have designs on the riches of Antarctica—gold, uranium, gas and oil reserves and more. Despite the stated global commitment to devote Antarctica to peace and science, the military-industrial complex lurks around every corner. The Chilean air force runs the base next door to Bellingshausen. The current U.S. Antarctic logistics contractor is Raytheon, a major producer of advanced weapons systems.
The Russians told us they needed additional money and political support to do a significant environmental cleanup. They certainly weren’t as hyper-conscious about littering or stepping on moss as we were. They were openly burning garbage when we arrived. But the Russians demonstrated a largely waste-free, simple style of living and, just as valuable, boundless hospitality. During our Bellingshausen summer they shared their home and welcomed our people with open arms.
This book is an invitation to experience our and others’ passions, doubts, victories, disasters, concerns, joys, heartbreaks, discoveries, recipes, warnings and encouragement for crossing stormy passages and being (or at least trying to be) good citizens of the world. It’s a call for earth stewardship. Why should future generations have to clean up our collective mess and inherit a planet depleted of biodiversity and resources?
Food is life, food is culture. It shaped old expeditions and shaped ours, and we’re going to use it to tell you this story.
CASTING OFF
AUTUMN IN CANADA 1995
{Sandy Nicholson}
The last time I sent a job offer to someone
I wrote at the top of the job description
“For an elegantly wild person who likes adventure.”
SEPTEMBER 18, 1995 // SAINT PETERSBURG
CAROLNegotiating Project Antarctica II. I met Victor Pomelov, environmental manager of the Russian Antarctic Expedition, first. Nice guy. We had a meeting and a vodka at Hotel Sovetskaya, next to the Fontanka river. I love it here. My third trip to Saint Petersburg and by chance each time I stay at or near the same hotel.
The next day: I went to the Arctic and Antarctic Research Institute at 38 Bering Str and also met Dr. Lukin, the director and Lena Nikolaeva who translated our meeting. S
he has caramel short hair, is in her early forties, friendly. Lena has a good laugh.
The office had wood-panelled walls and was bustling. There were polar maps and photos everywhere. I believed in the expedition’s purpose. Beyond the humble environmental assistance we could provide alongside the Russians, we could have a meaningful cross-cultural and educational experience. They seemed willing to try.
We agreed on the terms for what we ultimately called The Joint Russian Canadian Ecological Project: how much we paid to live at their station, where in their bases we could be accommodated, that we provisioned our own food and we had our own emergency plans, and how we would help their conservation efforts. Lena’s translations of my words to Dr. Lukin were longer than the sentences I had said in English.
The previous year Lena had crossed Antarctica to Novolazarevskaya (Novo) station with the Russians in a train-tractor vehicle; she showed me a photo of the tractor. That’s hard-core. She’d also been a radio operator in Dronning Maud Land with the Norwegians on a mountaineering expedition at Wohtat Massive near Novo. Lena told me she participated in a section of a four-year Novo cleanup.
Part of our agreement was to have Lena join us at Bellingshausen as our liaison with the Russians. I liked that proposal and I knew we’d get along well.
Victor took me to the “Museum of the Arctic and Antarctica” in a restored old yellow church. An impressive display of black and white photographs and Arctic paintings, a replica of an Arctic drift ice-based station and dioramas. More than one stuffed penguin.
Now the project feels very real.
OCTOBER 5, 1995 // TORONTO
I’m meeting Wendy today. Bryce said his friend had thrived on her cooking last summer. There is so much to still work out to make this so-called expedition happen. But we succeeded despite all last year, somehow.