Tom Kerridge's Fresh Start

by Tom Kerridge

  ●Yoghurt has a wonderfully cooling and slightly acidic taste, which can instantly balance a dish. You can also add endless flavours to it – from tahini or chilli sauce to fresh herbs, chopped cucumber or capers – to make a savoury dip, or the base for a salad dressing. And I’ll happily have yoghurt for breakfast with some granola or fruit, if I’m in a rush. Its thick and creamy texture is also good for making a quick fruit fool, or a fresh-tasting icing for a cake. I generally use low-fat natural yoghurt or 0% fat Greek-style yoghurt, which has a creamier texture. Sometimes, however, full-fat yoghurt is essential for getting the texture right, for example in the pannacotta here.

  ●Stock is always best if it’s freshly made. It’s easy to cook up chicken, fish or vegetable stock yourself at home (it freezes well), and you can also buy it in most supermarkets or butchers. Using it is an easy way to introduce some really great flavour to your cooking. That said, good-quality instant stock cubes will do the job too.

  ●Lemons, oranges and limes are brilliant for introducing fresh-tasting flavours. Citrus juice is ideal for making simple dressings and brings a sharp tang to sweet and savoury dishes. If you intend to use the zest, buy unwaxed citrus fruit. The zest has a more gentle, complex flavour and is ideal for lifting savoury dishes and flavouring puddings. (See here for how to zest citrus fruit.)

  Freezer

  ●Bags of frozen peas and prawns are endlessly versatile – I use them in everything from stir-fries and pasta dishes to risottos and curries, as well as simple salads and wraps.

  ●Frozen mixed berries can be blitzed to make smoothies, an effortless compote (here) or an instant ice cream (here).

  ●Frozen fish keeps really well and it can often be fresher than what you buy at the fish counter, as it will have been frozen at sea. Salmon, cod or haddock steaks are so easy to cook – just wrap them in foil and cook in the oven, or use them in a one-tray bake (here).

  Flavour-plus cooking

  As well as thinking about the ingredients you use, there are some clever, straightforward cooking techniques that can help enhance the flavour and texture of your food.

  Grating garlic You’ll see that in most recipes I tend to peel and then finely grate garlic. You could crush or finely slice your garlic instead, but using a fine grater gently squeezes out all the natural oils so you get twice as much flavour from each clove, and the taste is a bit less harsh.

  Caramelising onions Compared with regular frying, this is a slow process. You want the onions to cook gently over a really low heat until they start to become sticky, turn golden brown and are so soft they’re almost breaking down. To ensure they cook evenly, you’ll need to stir them fairly often. They will develop a sweet, almost toffee-ish flavour, which means you don’t need to add any extra sweetness later on. In the veggie bolognaise, the onion is cooked like this, along with some tomato purée. It works sort of like a curry paste, creating complex flavours that provide a solid base for the rest of the sauce.

  Pre-roasting mince Browning mince in the oven, before you introduce it to the rest of your recipe, allows the outside to caramelise, adding an extra, subtle sweetness and richness to the final dish. Pre-cooking mince in this way has the added bonus of cooking off some of the fat, making it healthier too.

  Toasting nuts and seeds Gently toasting or ‘dry-frying’ nuts and seeds enhances their flavour. Use a small non-stick pan over a medium heat, swirling the pan every now and then until they start to smell delicious and turn golden brown. (‘Dry-frying’ just means without any oil.) I add toasted nuts and seeds to salads or scatter them over the top of almost anything else for a lovely layer of tasty crunch. To add flavour to oats for making porridge and flapjacks, I toast the oats in the oven first.

  Julienning vegetables Preparing vegetable ‘julienne’ is basically just cutting them into evenly sized matchsticks. If you are cooking veg prepared like this, the uniform size helps them to cook evenly.

  Zesting citrus fruit Buy unwaxed fruit and use a fine grater to remove the zest, making sure you don’t get any of the bitter white pith underneath. Grating the zest releases all the lovely citrusy oils.

  Cooking pasta Always add salt to the boiling water before cooking pasta. This is the only opportunity the pasta gets to be properly seasoned. And be careful not to overcook your pasta either – no one likes it mushy! Carefully lift a piece from the pan and try it. It should be al dente: softened, but still with a little ‘bite’ or firmness.

  Blowtorching This may sound a bit cheffy, but a cook’s blowtorch won’t cost you much and it’s a great way of adding a smoky, barbecued flavour to dishes, or to create a caramelised or charred effect without having to use lots of oil. To use a blowtorch safely, don’t touch the flame and always check the gas has been switched off afterwards. Place the food on a metal tray and make sure there is nothing flammable nearby, like alcohol. Always light the blowtorch before putting it near raw food, or you run the risk of getting fuel on the food. I find that the best technique is to use a gentle waving motion, so the flame goes slowly back and forth across the surface of the food to evenly ‘scorch’ it. Don’t concentrate too long on one area, or the food may burn. I use this method on the trout with beetroot and orange. Trout is a delicate fish that you would struggle to barbecue conventionally, so this allows you to introduce all those delicious flavours without the risk of it getting stuck to your grill. Blowtorching also adds an amazing caramelised flavour to the Orange, cardamom and polenta cake.

  Making friends with your oven

  Ovens vary more than you’d think. If you turn the dial on your oven to 180°C you might actually find it’s up to 20°C hotter or cooler than it should be – and it’s generally hotter near the top than the bottom as that’s where the heating element usually is. In some recipes I specify that you should use the top shelf (best for browning) or bottom shelf (when slow cooking, for example). It’s a good idea to get an oven thermometer, so you can work out exactly what temperature your oven is cooking at, and whether that varies, top to bottom.

  Most ovens these days can be operated as either fan or conventional ovens. Using the fan means the heat is circulated throughout the oven more evenly. The fan oven setting is more often used, but if you’re an experienced cook you might prefer to cook cakes and delicate meringues using the conventional option, as the fan-assisted heat can cause them to dry out or cook too quickly on the outside before they’ve had a chance to cook properly inside. Sophisticated ovens can have even more options to choose from, such as using top or bottom heat with or without a fan, and most ovens now have an integral grill.

  Freezing extra food

  If lack of time is holding you back from making home-cooked meals, get your freezer to work hard for you. Many of the recipes in this book are particularly well suited to freezing and reheating later, and I’ve given instructions for how to go about it wherever you see this symbol: ❄

  Invest in some good-quality freezable containers – two-person portion sizes are very useful, as well as re-usable freezer bags. A range of rigid plastic or glass containers, and foil trays with cardboard or foil lids, are great for freezing your own meals.

  Make sure you let your food cool properly before you freeze it. If you don’t, it can partially defrost the other food in your freezer and force your freezer to work twice as hard. And don’t forget to label and date the contents!

  When you want to eat something from the freezer, defrost it fully in the fridge overnight before reheating it in the oven (or on the hob) until it’s piping hot all the way through.

  Relax and have fun

  One of the best ways of enjoying food is to share it with others. So invite your mates round, get the conversation flowing and serve up some simple tasty food for everyone to dig into. Don’t get stressed about it, or worry about how you’re going to present your food – it doesn’t have to be perfect. Set big sharing platters in the middle of the table and let everyone help themselves. If it’s a lasagne or tray bake, I’ll often put the baking d
ish directly on the table (on a heat mat) with some serving spoons, rather than plate up everything individually. Just sit back and enjoy!

  MORNINGS CAN OFTEN feel quite rushed. If you need to get to work early and/or you have children to get ready for school, then I totally understand how a quick bowl of cereal or slice of toast often seems like the most you can manage. But if you set aside a little time in your regular morning routine for some proper food, you’ll be getting a head start on the rest of the day.

  When you’re in a tearing hurry, attempting to cook something new for breakfast might seem like too much of a challenge, so try out a few recipes at the weekend first and then, when you’re familiar with them, start introducing them on weekdays. For the mornings when you really do only have 5 minutes (and we all have those) keep a jar of the granola here at the ready. It’s full of nutty, fruity goodness and has to be better for you than sugary, salty, highly processed cereal from a packet.

  To avoid the mid-morning slump and help keep you fuller for longer, eggs are a fantastic breakfast ingredient because they’re packed with protein. The Indian-style scrambled eggs are quick and filling, and they’ve got green beans in the mix too, so you’ll also be getting one of your five-a-day. Veg at breakfast time might sound a bit odd, but the beans provide a lovely, satisfying crunch that contrasts with the creamy, fluffy eggs. Or, for a nice alternative to a boiled egg, my Smoked haddock and spinach egg pots are perfect for dipping toast into. And if you’re after a treat at the weekend, Eggy brioche with berry compote will get everyone into the kitchen to see what’s cooking!

  It’s not all about eggs though – if you can’t do without your morning bacon, then try the BLT; I guarantee it will be the best BLT you’ll ever eat. With all this choice, there really are no excuses for missing out on the most important meal of the day.

  Homemade granola

  Packed with nutritious nuts and dried fruit, this granola is a great way to start the day, and it’s a healthier alternative to the highly processed, high-sugar cereals you can buy. It is really sustaining too, so you only need a small amount, with a generous dollop of yoghurt and some fresh fruit, for a perfectly balanced breakfast. V

  16 servings

  240 calories per serving

  300g rolled oats

  100g mixed seeds (pumpkin, sunflower and sesame)

  50g hazelnuts, roughly chopped

  50g pecans, roughly chopped

  50g pistachios, roughly chopped

  50g flaked almonds

  4 tbsp coconut oil

  125ml maple syrup

  50ml honey

  2 tbsp vanilla extract

  ½ tsp ground cardamom

  ½ tsp ground ginger

  1 tsp ground cinnamon

  1 tsp sea salt flakes

  50g coconut flakes

  150g mixed dried fruit (cranberries, chopped apricots, chopped dried apple, raisins)

  To serve

  Fresh fruit

  Yoghurt

  1 Preheat the oven to 170°C/Fan 150°C/Gas 3. Line two baking trays with baking parchment.

  2 Mix the oats, seeds, chopped nuts and flaked almonds together in a large bowl.

  3 Put the coconut oil, maple syrup, honey, vanilla and spices into a small saucepan and heat gently, stirring, until the coconut oil has melted. Pour over the oat mixture, add the salt and mix well.

  4 Spread the mixture out in a thin layer on the prepared trays and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and add the coconut flakes and dried fruit. Mix well, then bake for a further 8–10 minutes or until the coconut flakes are browned. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

  5 Store the granola in an airtight container. Serve with fresh fruit and yoghurt.

  Homemade granola

  Pimp my porridge

  Porridge is very good for you, but if you find it a bit bland, try one of my tasty toppings. For a fruity option, go for the fresh raspberry and nut, or spiced pear with dates and almonds. Porridge doesn’t have to be sweet, though, so if you can’t do without bacon and eggs in the morning, give my savoury option a go.

  Serves 2

  270–430 calories per serving (depending on the type of milk used and chosen topping)

  For the porridge base

  100g rolled oats

  800ml water

  270ml milk (whole milk, coconut or almond)

  For the raspberry and nut topping

  100g raspberries

  3 tbsp coconut sugar

  2 tbsp pistachios, chopped

  For the spiced pear topping

  30g butter

  3 tbsp soft light brown sugar

  1 tsp ground mixed spice

  2 pears, cored and diced

  3 tbsp water

  8 dates, chopped

  2 tbsp almonds, toasted

  For the bacon and egg topping

  100g bacon lardons

  1 tsp light olive oil

  2 tbsp maple syrup

  2 large free-range eggs

  Sea salt

  Barbecue sauce, to serve (optional)

  1 For the porridge base, preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and line a baking tray with baking parchment. Spread the oats out on the tray and toast on the top shelf of the oven for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Transfer the oats to a large non-stick saucepan, add the water and milk and simmer gently for 4–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, as it thickens.

  2 For the raspberry and nut topping, mix half of the raspberries and coconut sugar into the porridge base and divide between two bowls. Top with the remaining raspberries, sugar and the pistachios.

  3 Or for the spiced pear topping, melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Add the sugar, spice, pears and water. Stir, then cook for 4–5 minutes. Add the dates and cook for a further 2 minutes. Ladle the porridge into two bowls and spoon the pear mix on top. Sprinkle with the toasted almonds to serve.

  4 Or for the bacon and egg topping, cook the lardons in the olive oil in a small non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat until well browned and super crispy, about 10–12 minutes. Tip the lardons into a small bowl and add the maple syrup. Return the pan to the heat, adding a little more oil if needed. Crack the eggs into the pan and cook sunny side up for 2–3 minutes, until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny. Add a little salt to the porridge base and ladle into two bowls. Top each portion with a fried egg and the lardons. Add a little barbecue sauce too, if you fancy it.

  Pimp my porridge

  Nutty wholemeal pancakes

  Extra toasty nuttiness from the wholemeal flour and nutty banana topping makes these easy pancakes even tastier than the classic white flour version – and they’re better for you too. V

  Serves 4

  675 calories per serving

  300g wholemeal self-raising flour

  1 tsp baking powder

  ½ tsp ground cinnamon

  ½ tsp ground mixed spice

  A pinch of sea salt

  2 large free-range eggs

  300ml whole or semi-skimmed milk

  2 tbsp nut butter

  3 tbsp light brown sugar

  1 tbsp vanilla extract

  4 bananas, sliced

  40g pecans, toasted and finely chopped

  40g peanuts, toasted and finely chopped

  Vegetable oil, for cooking

  Maple syrup, to serve

  1 Preheat the oven to 140°C/Fan 120°C/Gas 1.

  2 Put the flour, baking powder, spices and salt into a large bowl. Crack the eggs and separate the yolks into one bowl and the whites into another very clean medium bowl.

  3 Add the milk, nut butter, sugar and vanilla extract to the egg yolks and mix well.

  4 In a small bowl, mash one of the bananas to a pulp and then add to the flour mix, along with half the chopped nuts. Pour in the milk and egg yolk mixture and whisk to a thick, smooth batter.

  5 Beat the egg whites with an electric hand whisk until soft peaks form. Fold half of the egg whites into
the batter until just combined, then fold in the rest.

  6 Heat a little oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. You will need to cook the pancakes in batches. When the pan is hot, add 2 or 3 ladlefuls of the mixture to the pan, keeping them separate. Cook for 2–3 minutes until bubbles start to appear on the surface, then flip the pancakes over and cook for 2–3 minutes on the other side. Transfer to a baking tray and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the rest of the batter.

  7 Place two pancakes on each warmed plate and top with the sliced bananas, the rest of the chopped nuts and a trickle of maple syrup.

  Nutty wholemeal pancakes

  Eggy brioche with berry compote

  This is a fun weekend breakfast to get the kids involved in – mixing the eggs and dunking the bread. Make sure you use big doorstop slices of brioche. You’ll have twice as much compote as you need here but it will keep in the fridge for a few days and is delicious dolloped on yoghurt or porridge. V

  Serves 4

  535 calories per serving

  For the berry compote

  2 Granny Smith apples

  75g light brown sugar

  Juice of ½ lemon

  ¼ tsp ground mixed spice

  1 tbsp water

  300g frozen mixed berries

  For the eggy brioche

  3 large free-range eggs

  200ml whole or semi-skimmed milk

  ½ tsp ground cinnamon

  1 tbsp vanilla extract

  4 slices of brioche, 4cm thick

  30g butter

  30g icing sugar

  1 Preheat the oven to 150°C/Fan 130°C/Gas 2.

  2 For the compote, peel, quarter, core and dice the apples. Place them in a medium saucepan with the brown sugar, lemon juice, mixed spice and water over a medium-low heat. Cook gently for 5 minutes, then add the frozen berries, bring to a gentle simmer and cook for a further 8–10 minutes or until the liquor is reduced and slightly thickened.