Romancing the Roads

by Gerry Hempel Davis

  Café Pasqual’s

  121 Don Gasper

  505-983-9340

  www.pasquals.com

  A well-known and popular place located just a block from the Plaza, Café Pasqual’s is small, seating about fifty people. I was there for breakfast. I arrived early (as suggested) because Pasqual’s fills up fast. The reviews are of the best variety. I think I should go back again because I would not rate it quite so highly. The decor and ambiance were great, but breakfast was only okay. Go to this landmark and decide for yourself.

  Dinner for Two

  106 N. Guadalupe St.

  505-820-2075

  www.dinnerfortwonm.com

  This is just a few minutes from Las Palomas. I did go in to snoop, and what a charming and attractive family-owned restaurant. From all I saw, Chef Andrew Barnes prepares fabulous meals. Lunch is deliciously normal, while dinner he calls “eclectic continental.” Looking at the menu, I noticed that all entrees are served with soup, homemade bread, and salad. Prices were reasonable. Judging from the ambiance and menu, I do not think you will be disappointed dining here.

  Other Attractions

  Kaune Neighborhood Market

  511 Old Santa Fe Trail

  505-982-2629

  www.kaunes.com

  This excellent grocery store also has a real butcher’s shop! The latter you will probably not use, but to find a real butcher’s shop is unique. I enjoyed a fresh sandwich and soup. It was just right for a tired bod and taking a meal to go. Kosher foods are also available. Kaune is pronounced “connie.” Kaune should be cloned.

  Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

  217 Johnson St.

  505-946-1000

  www.okeeffemuseum.org

  Georgia O’Keeffe’s art is unique, and although it may not appeal to you, you should definitely go and see it. Her work makes up an impressive collection. O’Keeffe’s paintings of flowers, as if seen very close up, have become almost a trademark, but there is so much more to this artist.

  Born in Wisconsin on November 15, 1887, one of seven children, she never faltered in her artistic ambitions. It was when Alfred Stieglitz, the internationally known photographer, saw her work that Georgia O’Keeffe started to gain prominence.

  Stieglitz was her mentor and later became her husband. They lived in New York, taking summer trips to New Mexico. Reading even a brief bio of this unique woman will give you more insight into her art. Until his death in 1946, Stieglitz untiringly promoted his wife’s work. Upon his death Georgia O’Keeffe moved to her beloved New Mexico, living at her Ghost Ranch (www.ghostranch.org) and then in Abiquiu. She continued to work almost until her death at the age of ninety-eight.

  Consignment Shops

  Barkin Boutique

  1107 Pen Rd.

  505-986-0699

  Take the phone number with you as it is a little hard to find, but it’s worth the effort once you find it (at least it was when I was there). Not far from the Plaza, it is just a little out of the way for strangers to find.

  Act 2: Vintage to Modern Clothing and Collectibles

  839-A Paseo De Peralta

  505-983-8585

  This is around the block from La Posada. The owners are very friendly and offer a large selection. Their logo is “Affordable Retail Therapy.”

  Double Take

  320 Aztec St.

  505-989-8886

  This includes Double Take at the Ranch, Double Take Vintage, Double Take Santa Fe Pottery, Double Take Baby Store, Double Take Encore 505 (upscale apparel), and Double Take Santa Fe Pottery. All of these wonderful stores are combined in one great gathering place.

  What a find! It is like a department store. You will do a “double take” when you walk into this fabulous emporium. There are so many items of quality: western, vintage, boutique, ultra upscale, collectibles, kitsch of all kinds, furniture ranging from funky to retro to fine. Then there is the maternity and baby shop and anything else you might want. I like shoes. Here I bought the most unbelievable red satin high-heel sling pumps. The heels are covered with small rhinestones. They are fantastic. They make a statement, and I adore wearing them. Okay, so I don’t walk a lot in them and dance only every so often—but boy are they noticed and admired. Awesome!

  Whenever I arrive in Santa Fe, I do not dawdle in getting to this Double Take’s Encore 505. What a wonderful collection of fabulous chic finds. I refer to it as the Neiman Marcus of consignment shops. My trademark is upscale scarves, and at Encore 505 I always find an excellent selection. The owner is a stylish savvy woman who knows her merchandize, maintains high standards, and prices items to sell. It is very hard not to find something you probably never knew you wanted and decide to purchase.

  With all Double Take’s divisions, it takes time to discover its treasures. Plan accordingly. Definitely!

  Jackalope

  2820 Cerrillos Rd.

  505-471-8539

  www.jackalope.com

  If you are in the mood for knickknacks of every variety, as well as wonderful, colorful, unusual oversized items you wish you could take home, then this is the place to visit. Regardless, of your purpose, a visit to this unique shop is a must. There are thousands of items and then some from literally all over the world. Large, small, practical, not so practical, unusual, and ordinary—you will probably find it here at Jackalope. The store is outside of downtown, so you will have to drive, but it is easy to find.

  North to Taos

  The highway is almost a straight shot, although there are several ways to head north: 285 to 84 to 68. Check you map.

  You will go through Espanola and Chimayo and pass a lot of fast fooders, some gas stations, and a few other places to stop. I wish I had had time to stop in Chimayo as I hear that Rancho de Chimayo, a hacienda and a restaurant, is perfect and charming.

  Rancho de Chimayo

  Ten miles past Espanola on Hwy. 76

  505-351-2222

  www.ranchodechimayo.com

  El Santuario de Chimayo Shrine (www.archdiocesesantafe.org) is an attraction due to its sacred dirt, which, when applied, has healed most miraculously.

  Embudo Station

  1101 Drive St., Hwy. 68, Embudo

  505-852-4707

  embudostation.com

  Between Santa Fe and Taos on Highway 68, Embudo Station is open from April through October for lunch and dinner. I give this restaurant the subtitle “A Culinary Treasure of Delights.” The tables are staggered on different levels along the banks of the Rio Grande. Music is live, but since you are just a stone’s throw from the highway, I could also hear the passing vehicles.

  The menu was full of hard choices. I learned that the smoked meats and fish here are some of the best, and the barbecue is delicious. I am not a beer connoisseur, but from what I tasted and from all reports, Embudo Station’s brewed beers are some of the best. I learned that Embudo Station may have changed ownership. I hope it was a sale and not a demise!

  Taos

  Taos is one of those towns that takes time to get to know. Initially, I found it rather unorganized and not upscale. Now that I have learned more about Taos, I want to go back and explore. I hear that bed-and-breakfast Casa de las Chimeneas (House of Chimneys), is excellent.

  Casa de las Chimeneas

  405 Cordoba Rd.

  505-575-4777

  Casa has been awarded the prestigious AAA Four Diamond Award. Applause to its owner and innkeeper, Susan Vernon. Also, it should be noted that despite the hot desert summers, there is skiing close by at Taos Ski Valley.

  Taos Ski Valley

  PO Box 90

  866-968-7386 or 800-776-1111

  www.skitaos.org

  This is an arty area. I was lucky to be introduced to one of the leading local art
ists, Walt Gonske. I visited his studio and learned that he had studied in New York, where he was a successful illustrator. He has lived in Taos since the 1970s, and from the look of his vibrant works, you can tell he definitely relates to the area.

  El Monte Sagrado

  317 Kit Carson Rd.

  575-758-3502

  www.elmontesagrado.com

  Named El Monte Sagrado, meaning “the sacred mountain,” because of its view of Taos Mountain, which is sacred to the people of Taos Pueblo, this $50 million resort is the baby of Virginian Tom Worrell, who spared little in the format and imagining of this oasis. This quiet place incorporates state-of-the-art ecological preservations. Now this unique property is under the aegis of Richard Kessler and is in the Kessler Collection.

  The property might take a little getting used to as it is not your usual escape. It is beautifully different, almost exotic. Learning about the powers of the amethyst and tourmaline stones, the land, the space, the waters, and the plants added an entirely new perspective and indulgence to my visit at El Monte Sagrado.

  Major expansions have taken place. When I was there, there were thirty-six elegantly appointed suites situated around the sacred circle in the middle of the property; now there are eighty-four. The Morocco Suite was my residence for two days. It was spacious, beautifully appointed, cozy, and romantic. I loved the sofa in front of the fireplace. (I wish it would have fit on top of my car!)

  The lighting is a bit dim, and the bedside lights are a little hard to turn off. When I was there, the bathrooms were large, and the towels were humongous; in fact, they were almost too big. One of the most pleasant experiences was getting into my own private hot tub outside the room. I could have spent the night in the hot tub, but unshriveling would have been a morning challenge, I am certain.

  Dining: My dining at De La Tierra (575-737-9855) was prior to Kessler’s acquisition. Some of the items I tasted were excellent, and others were not quite so. But then, that can be true at every restaurant. It all depends on the day you are there and the staff. I am certain with the new executive chef and membership in the Kessler Collection, dining is an epicurean delight. The dining room itself is most attractive. The high ceiling, cozy clusters of seating arrangements, soft lighting, and huge, colorful paintings on the high, flat wall surfaces create a special aura and experience.

  One must enjoy at least one spa treatment in the unusual and exotic setting of the Living Spa at El Monte Sagrado. In my travels, I have experienced a lot of varied treatments, but the “most unique” award goes to what I experienced here: sound and vibrational therapy. “This two-hour session integrates the subtle energy work of Polarity and Cranial Sacral with Acutonics, which is a system that uses tuning forks to balance the head and body with sound vibrations. The goal of this treatment is to interface the physical body . . . with the energetic body, meridians, chakras, and diverse energetic circuits of the body.” Did I feel balanced? Heaven knows. I felt just fine, but then I also felt fine when I arrived. It was an experience!

  My total experience at El Monte Sagrado was stellar. You must experience this very exceptional place. I love this quote from their brochure: “Take only memories, leave nothing but footprints” (Chief Seattle). I think that is wonderful.

  FYI: El Monte Sagrado is now part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, although the property is still independently owned. Those belonging to the Marriott’s Club will earn points.

  I left Taos on Highway 64 for Ojo Caliente. I did not have time to stop, but the Millicent Rogers Museum is along the way.

  Millicent Rogers Museum

  1504 Millicent Rogers Rd.

  575-758-2462

  www.millicentrogers.com

  Driving Diva Factoid: Millicent Rogers was the granddaughter of the founder of Standard Oil. She was a true beauty and fashion icon. From all I have read, she lived life to the fullest. Her attraction to the Taos area was immediate. Not only was she a collector, but she designed some noteworthy jewelry. Her youngest son, the late Paul Peralta-Ramos, left many collections to the Millicent Rogers Museum.

  Highway 64 is a good road but rather desolate. I went over the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, which is worth a quick stop and a fast picture.

  Further along, you discover the Earthship World Headquarters.

  Earthship World Headquarters

  2 Earthship Way

  575-751-0462

  earthship.net

  Here passive solar houses are made out of recycled materials, including automobile tires. The water used is from the rain, and the power is from the sun. The subdivision sits on 633 acres, and there are approximately forty-six homes. It is designed for 130. There is a visitor’s center, a video tour, and an option to rent an Earthship home for just a night or two.

  FYI: The “tour” consists of your paying $5, then sitting on a bench to watch a video

  Driving Diva Reminder: There’s not much around. Remember gas and water.

  Ojo Caliente

  50 Los Banos Dr.

  505-583-2233

  www.ojocalientespa.com

  About an hour and a half from downtown Santa Fe, this unique oasis of mineral springs is so special that only seeing is believing. It is one of the oldest health resorts in North America and the only one in the world with its combination of four geothermal mineral waters. It is a peaceful and majestic place to visit.

  There are seven springs with four different types of mineral water here. The minerals are arsenic, iron, soda, and lithia. The one hundred thousand gallons of geothermal mineral water steam to the surface daily and afford each participant an unusual experience not quickly forgotten. To me they are exceptionally wonderful. You can obtain therapeutic massages and special body and facial treatments here.

  I read somewhere, and think it is worth sharing, that drinking any of the waters while bathing helps to eliminate excessive acids and other impurities, creating more vitality and energy.

  I have visited Ojo several times. On my first visit, the lodgings are modest, clean, and comfortable. My room had two beds, a TV without a remote, a small porch, a tiny kitchen area, and a bathroom with only a toilet and sink. Remember, you have been soaking all day, and your skin feels so wonderful. You do not need a shower. That was back then. On my second visit, some fixing up had been done, and now I read that a lot has been done. From the pictures on their site, indeed the circa 1930 buildings and aura have changed. Regardless, I know that Ojo Caliente remains a wonderful oasis in every way possible. The fact that it was named one of the “Top 10 Best Hot Springs in the World” says something. Go and enjoy.

  Also available to rent are the Adobe, Hill, and Mauro houses, each with several bedrooms, complete kitchens, bathrooms, and such.

  Personal Testimonial: During this last odyssey, I slashed the top of my arm. It was a deep cut positioned so that I would inadvertently bump it periodically. After my initial soak at Ojo, I applied the indigenous Ojo mud and let it cake on my arm. I baked in the sun for a while, and when the spirit moved me, I got into the spring and cleaned off. I could not believe that the cut on my arm had closed dramatically. By mid-evening, it was truly almost healed!

  The spa provides massage therapy and body treatments of various descriptions. Yoga classes are exceptional, and the “Stretch and Soak” routine is a must. One can enjoy a wonderful wrap between 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. for about $12. I choose the evening. It is recommended that you have a good soak in the geothermal waters to increase your body temperature before being wrapped. You lie on a table in a dimly lit room. An attendant wraps you in a sheet, mummy-like, and you just lie there for about thirty minutes. The purpose is to withdraw impurities from your body. It’s a must-do unless you are claustrophobic.

  Alert: Consumption of alcohol when using the facilities may impair judgment.

  Ojo Caliente’s Artesian Restaurant is casua
l dining at its best. The southwestern cuisine is creative. Lighter fare and vegetarian delights are also on the menu. It is truly a friendly place, and the staff obviously enjoy working at Ojo.

  There are also mountain bike and horseback trails to enjoy.

  Driving Diva Factoid: On the property is the only round barn in New Mexico, and it is said to be the only remaining adobe round barn in the United States. It is a short walk from the main springs. Renovations are ongoing. This unique building will be available for yoga retreats, seminars, and special events.

  Rancho de San Juan

  U.S. Hwy. 285 between Espanola and Ojo Caliente, 3.5 miles north of the junction of Hwys. 84 and 285

  505-783-6818

  www.ranchodesanjuan.com

  Thirty-five miles from Santa Fe and fifteen minutes from Ojo Caliente, you will find the award-winning Rancho de San Juan. This beautiful desert oasis offers guests gorgeous suites, individual casitas, exceptional dining, and more. Here, in the middle of 225 desert acres, you will find upscale touches everywhere. Starched table linens, polished silver, sparkling crystal, and beautiful dinnerware all enhance the gourmet dining. The Frette linens, the fresh flowers, and all the attention to detail made the accommodations superb.

  Fashionable and friendly, Rancho de San Juan, though described in the brochure as a “country inn and restaurant,” is anything but. Its owners, David Heath and John Johnson, are perfectionists and professionals. John also has the title of chef, to which I add “outstanding.” One does not have to stay at this oasis to dine there.

  At this desert haven, you will find the Sandstone Shrine, which took artist Ra Paulette two years to complete. Commissioned by the owners, this unique work is in a sandstone butte on the side of Black Mesa. Cathedral windows look out onto the Ojo Caliente River valley and toward the Jemez Mountains. Strategically placed mirrors and inlays of stones within the interior create a most unique place of meditation. This shrine has been the scene of weddings, small concerts, and special events.

  There is much to do in the area, including white-water rafting, swimming, hiking, skiing, and fishing.

  Lodge and Ranch at Chama