Romancing the Roads

by Gerry Hempel Davis

  Here is a summary of what I enjoyed: The tapenade was excellent. Not too salty and spread on the fabulous bread, it was just right. Chef Wiggins, knowing that I wanted to discover many aspects of her cooking skills, created a selection of small tastes of various appetizers. Each was excellent, although I think my favorite was the layered squash and vegetables with goat cheese.

  As a main course, I enjoyed scaloppine di vitello: veal medallions with spinach, lemon, capers, and sun-dried tomatoes. It was probably the best veal, or close to it, that I have ever enjoyed. A sampling of the homemade gnocchi with wild mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, baby spinach, and gorgonzola cream proved delicious, and I am not a gorgonzola enthusiast. Dessert was a chocolate crème brulée. Whoa!

  What an interesting conversation I had with Chef Wiggins as she described what I was eating. There was no question she knows her trade, and she is upbeat and fun. Here’s a culinary tidbit she shared with me: When balsamic vinegar is aged like wine, it becomes delicately sweet.

  Panzano = friendly and delicious perfection. Don’t miss enjoying. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday. Call or check the Internet for hours.

  Sixteenth Street Mall

  This focal point has greatly improved since my first visit. It has clothing shops, chain stores, drug stores, and restaurants. Would I call it a must-do? More yes than no. Get your film developed, find a pair of comfortable shoes, buy a souvenir, have a good meal—yes. Maybe you’ll get lucky and find something fantastic. Go there alone at night? Maybe not.

  To Denver highway officials: Better signage is needed. You can see where downtown is from the tall buildings on the skyline, but if you are not from the area, it is not obvious which exit to take. Signage is also poor going to and coming from the airport. The natives know, but visitors need detailed and explicit signs. This trip I can say, “Thank you, OnStar, for guiding me.”

  Leaving Denver

  Finding U.S. 36 out of Denver is not difficult. The highway between Boulder and Denver has become a major thoroughfare for commuters and visitors. There are major developments on both sides of the highway. The drive from Denver to Boulder takes about forty-five minutes, depending on traffic and snowstorms.

  Boulder (Population More Than 105,000)

  The first settlers came to Boulder around 1858, during the Pikes Peak gold rush. By 1860, Boulder had the first schoolhouse in Colorado, and the first frame house had been built. Prior to 1861, Colorado was part of Nebraska, and in 1862 Boulder County was formed. Boulder has not stopped “rushing” and building since those early days, and a list of all the city’s “best of” awards would span pages. This is not a small town; yet, it has a small-town, friendly, open feeling, and of course it’s very outdoorsy.

  The drive into Boulder from Denver is scenic. Boulder is an attractive university town, full of the activity that its large, youthful population brings to the area. The Flatirons rise to over eight thousand feet above the city and still farther beyond, forming a dramatic backdrop. The snow-capped Continental Divide looms at over thirteen thousand feet. Cosmopolitan in a relaxed way, Boulder has a little bit of everything.

  Hotel Boulderado

  2115 Thirteenth St.

  303-442-4344

  www.boulderado.com

  Its name an elision of Boulder and Colorado, this historic downtown hotel first opened in 1909. Had you checked in then, the rate would have been from $1 to $2.50 a night, depending on room size and conveniences. Visiting this landmark, you will feel like you are stepping back in time. The rates are slightly higher, and the conveniences are many. At this enjoyable property you will find an attractive, efficient staff whose goal to please is obvious.

  During one of my visits, I discovered that sloppy (if any) attention had been given to my bedding. Once I notified the staff, the problem was quickly fixed, and the apologies were many.

  Note: This can happen anywhere. I experienced similar at a multistar hotel. If you are in this situation, be certain to report the oversight. Many hotels have “room checkers,” which is a good policy.

  Parking is convenient. Often there are parking spaces by the hotel, but valet parking is also available.

  Q’s Restaurant (303-442-4880, www.qsboulder.com) is well appointed and superior, with an excellent menu and sensible prices. During happy hour, everything on the bar menu is half off. There is also the “Every Night Special”: a five-course chef’s tasting for $55 or five courses and five wines all-inclusive for $85.

  The Corner Bar (303-442-4560), open from 11:30 a.m. to midnight, is an ideal place for whatever your gastronomic appetite desires. At the Catacombs (303-443-0486), one of Boulder’s first liquor-licensed bars, music and libations are specials.

  Pearl Street Pedestrian Mall

  Within a very short walk of the Boulderado is the award-winning Pearl Street Pedestrian Mall. This attractive area has always been a favorite of mine. It is well laid out with a wonderful mix of shops, some quite pricey, but all with a vibrant, friendly atmosphere. You can enjoy the show either by people watching, window shopping, or store browsing. There are several street performers: Bongo the Balloon Man makes animal-balloon creations, and the Zip Code Man will guess your hometown when you tell him your zip code. Or watch in awe as the contortionist folds himself into a small box. There is definitely something for everyone.

  Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse

  1770 Thirteenth St.

  303-442-4993

  www.boulderteahouse.com

  This real teahouse was a gift from Boulder’s sister city, Dushanbe, Tajikistan. The only one in the Western Hemisphere, its main purpose is to make souls happy. Decorated by over forty native artisans over a three-year period, its vibrant colors and furnishings are outstanding. There are one hundred different types of teas and a full bar, and the teahouse is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Your soul will be happy.

  Boulder County Farmer’s Market

  Thirteenth St. between Arapahoe and Canyon

  303-910-2236

  www.boulderfarmers.org

  This is a great place to stock up on the most delicious fresh edibles, as well as jellies, flowers, homemade items, and so forth. This farmer’s market is a happening. I recommend, if available, the Colorado peaches. You will taste why with your first bite (see Palisade, Colorado).

  Celestial Seasonings Tea Company

  4600 Sleepytime Dr.

  303-581-1531

  www.celestialseasonings.com

  Although I have not yet had the time to visit, I look forward to taking the forty-five-minute tour, seeing some of the 8 million tea bags made per day, and visiting the Mint Room! I hear the tour is most informative and fun, and I recommend it. I certainly recommend their teas.

  Millennium Harvest House

  1345 Twenty-eighth St.

  303-443-3850

  www.millenniumhotels.com/millenniumboulder

  I found the staff very friendly and competent at this nice commercial hotel. There is a lot of activity. The hotel is convenient to many stores. My room was large, but the decor was dark. The bedside lamps are placed so high that turning them off is a big stretch. The bathroom had all the necessities and amenities.

  The Club Room on the fourth floor provides a microwave, coffee, and depending on the time of day, pastries, cheese and crackers, and such. The ice machine is nearby. This is a friendly, professional hotel.

  FYI: Boulder has all the chain stores and then some. It is a college town as well as an upscale mountain town, so anything you forget to pack you can get here.

  Estes Park

  The drive from Boulder to Estes Park is pleasant, and the road has definitely improved since my first visit several years ago.

  Nearing Estes, you feel as if you are looking at a picture postcard. It i
s most attractive but soon you realize—particularly in the summer—that too many others have discovered Estes. Elkhorn Avenue, the main drag, is now jammed with trinket shops, taffy stores, moccasin and buckskin jacket stores, and endless T-shirt shops.

  The Stanley

  333 Wonderview Ave.

  970-577-4000

  www.stanleyhotel.com

  F. O. Stanley, of Stanley Steamer fame, arrived in Estes Park in 1903. Realizing the potential of this beautiful area and knowing that it needed a major hotel, he purchased 160 acres and began his project.

  It took two years to complete the main building, and as they say, the rest is history. By 1940, the year of his death, Stanley had not only built his grand hotel but created a sewer, power, and water company and the first bank in Estes.

  The Stanley is a grand hotel. In years past, it suffered a decline, receiving few attentions. I am glad to report that upgrades and improvements have at last started and are succeeding.

  Many types of rooms are available, with rates ranging from $119 to $1,500, depending on the season. Villas have also been built for rent or purchase.

  The Stanley was featured in Steven King’s The Shining, and it is said to have several haunted rooms. Visit this historic hotel.

  Sweet Basilico Café

  430 Prospect Village Dr.

  970-586-3899

  www.sweetbasilico.com

  Owned by Raul and Shawn Perez, this is one of my very favorite small Italian restaurants. The food is wonderful. The Italian classics—lasagna, manicotti, eggplant parmesan, homemade focaccia—are absolutely delicious. The atmosphere is delightful, and the prices are right. Unless you plan to get there when they open, make a reservation. Enjoy.

  Grand Junction

  I-70 out of Denver takes you to Grand Junction in about four and a half hours. The excellent highway takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery in America. Be advised, however, that winter weather can cause considerable delays on Vail Pass and in the Eisenhower Tunnel. A flashlight or two, blankets, a small shovel, and heavy boots are recommended for the winter traveler. And bottles of water, always.

  Grand Junction and the surrounding areas are unpretentious and friendly; the rock formations in canyon country are spectacular. I particularly recommend a drive through Colorado National Monument (970-858-3617, ext. 360; www.nps.gov/colm/index.htm), easily accessible from Grand Junction.

  Palisade

  Palisade is within ten minutes of downtown Grand Junction. Take I-70 East.

  With all due respect to the Peachtree State, you have not tasted peaches until you have bitten into a fresh peach from Palisade. Their taste is very different from that of any other peach. There are other delicious fruits from the area, so be sure to “fruit up” for delicious car treats. Don’t leave the area without a trip to Palisade Pride, now part of Alida’s Fruits.

  Alida’s Fruits

  3402 C 1/2 Rd.

  970-434-8769

  www.alidasfruits.com

  Don’t you love that address? When I called to find out about Palisade Pride, the phone was answered by Alida herself. What a special conversation! One of the first things I learned was that Alida’s is not really in Palisade but in East Orchard Mesa, just a short distance from Palisade and a stone’s throw from the Colorado River. Get directions by calling, or see the map on the company’s website.

  After a rather lengthy conversation with Alida about her business and my project, I immediately visited the company website. It turns out that Robert “Farmer Bob” and Alida have grown and sold fruits and vegetables for approximately forty years. Their products are all about quality and freshness. I would bet that their produce gives a whole new meaning to the word “taste.”

  Note: When I called for the final updates, Farmer Bob answered the phone, and after a fun and interesting talk, we said, “Look forward to meeting you.” It is on my agenda.

  They produce superb dried fruits prepared without toxins. The dried peach slices and the tart cherries are hand coated with a vanilla cream confection, and the pears and apples are hand dipped in either light or dark chocolate and caramel coatings. These are unbelievably delicious. The fruit flavor remains but with the dab of that yummy white confection—oh my! These are my favorite, but I also exclaim approval for the chocolate fruits.

  Call and place an order for these unbelievable fruits, or if you are in the area, a visit to their store is a must. Don’t be surprised if you decide to make yourself a present of these delights.

  Enstrom

  701 Colorado Ave., Grand Junction

  970-683-1000

  www.enstrom.com

  Enjoy a visit to Enstrom’s, a fifty-year-old family business famous for its almond taffy, which is considered absolutely fantastic. Three generations have maintained the product, and they must be doing something right as Enstrom Candies produces over half a million pounds of almond toffee annually.

  Chet Enstrom’s hobby of making handcrafted almond toffee has become an irrefutable “must” for toffee aficionados. I have never read a bad review of these products. Chet’s toffees were in demand by 1959, and by the late 1970s, production had reached over sixty-five thousand pounds. Today, this family business still produces small batches of seventy pounds each by hand. Here’s to hobbies! Check the website for store locations throughout Colorado.

  Note: The above two special shops might solve some Christmas shopping.

  Wyoming

  I have crossed the state of Wyoming several different ways, and each is interesting. Wyoming is the ninth-largest state (in square miles) in the United States. Because of its elevation—sixty-seven hundred feet above sea level—the temperatures are cool to cold. Precipitations can and do vary greatly. There is a lot to do in Wyoming, particularly if you like the outdoors.

  Wamsutter (Population Approximately 240)

  I had a friend with me on this trip, and seeing a sign for a café, we turned off I-80 to find ourselves on a very dusty road. The wind was blowing, making it hard to see with all the dust. Suddenly, a police car with very bright flashing lights and a noisy siren came up behind me.

  “What have I done?” I asked my friend.

  “I don’t know,” she replied.

  Chief of Police Sergio came up and very nicely told me to get out of the car. He proceeded to tell me that I had neglected to stop at the stop sign. I explained that there was so much dust and wind that I hadn’t seen it, and I didn’t know this area. After I got my warning citation, we talked a bit. He told me about his family and his children’s dirt bike. I told him about my project. We talked some more, and he said, “Use the citation as decoration on your refrigerator,” and with that we said good-bye. Needless to say, I will always remember Wamsutter.

  Heading north on I-25, there are several interesting stops.

  Cheyenne (Population More Than 50,000)

  This substantial metropolis is a civilized, clean, and friendly western town. It is one of the two largest cities in Wyoming.

  Chugwater (Population Approximately 250)

  Big rock formations can be seen all around. There is a Super 8 Motel (www.super8.com) and much more!

  Chugwater Chili Corporation

  210 First St.

  1-800-972-4454 (CHILI)

  www.chugwaterchili.com

  Country Girls Embroidery

  1160 State Hwy. 313

  307-422-3414

  www.countrygirlsembroidery.com

  Chugwater Dog Grooming and Boarding

  140 S. Chugwater Hwy.

  307-422-3217

  Chugwater Soda Fountain

  314 First St.

  307-422-3222

  Not bad for a tiny town. When I was there, town lots sold for $100. Can that be? Maybe my dyslexia l
eft off a zero.

  Douglas (Population Approximately 5,000)

  This small town has lots of history, but nothing has brought it more notoriety than the birth of the jackalope. Brothers Douglas and Ralph Herrick had studied taxidermy by mail as teenagers. One day, on their return from hunting, they tossed a rabbit carcass into the taxidermy shop, and it slid right between a pair of antlers. Douglas’s eyes brightened as he said, “Let’s mount it that way!” And so was born a rabbit with antlers, to be forever known as the jackalope. These creatures have become part of the west on postcards, statues, pins—you name it. If you have been out west, perhaps you too have bought a souvenir featuring the jackalope, which the state of Wyoming trademarked.

  Douglas has also been noted in Norman Crampton’s The 100 Best Small Towns in America. In spite of—or perhaps because of—its size, the people of this town work together and strive to make it the best it can be.

  Casper (Population Approximately 46,000)

  This town has a Hampton Inn (www.hamptoninn.com), which I am pleased to note was managed by a woman when I was there. I found Casper to be a very friendly, nice place to visit. There was a lot going on, and I could see why it had won “best of” in several categories. The roads away from Casper and Cheyenne are strikingly beautiful, but services are few and far between. Even towns marked prominently on the map can consist of little more than a couple of intersections.

  Driving Diva Tip: From Casper I left on I-25, then took Route 26/20. I recommend this drive.

  Powder River (Population 50)

  Powder River has a post office.

  Hiland (Population 10)

  I could not leave Hiland out! Way back when, it was so named because it was the highest point on the Wyoming section of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway. You can find it on a map, and the next time I am passing by, I plan to stop. It is about fifty miles west of Casper.

  Shoshoni (Population Less Than 500)

  The road is long and straight, when all of a sudden you round a bend and see a sign:

  Welcome to